I/ 


THE 


LEGACY 


OCTOGENARIAN 


Un  Cbree  iparte: 

PART  I. — Autobiographical  Sketches. 

PART  II.  — Notes  of  Travel. 

PART  III.  —  Biographical  Notices. 


PUBLISHED   BY 

ISRAEL  AUGUSTUS  NEWHALL  and  HOWARD  MUDGE  NEWHALL. 


1897. 

THE  NICHOLS  PRESS -THOS.   P.  NICHOLS. 
LYNN,  MASS. 


Copyright,  1897,  by 
ISRAEL  AUGUSTUS  NEWHALL  and  HOWARD  MUDGE  NEWHALL, 


PREFACE 


IT  is  with  considerable  hesitancy  that  the  writer  puts 
forth  this  volume.  And  perhaps  the  reader,  after  perusal, 
will  conclude  that  it  would  have  been  well  had  the  hesi- 
tancy been  prolonged  indefinitely.  But  be  that  as  it  may : 
Here  is  the  book. 

It  would  be  fairly  reckoned  a  barren  life  if,  after  so  many 
years  of  activity  and  varied  experience,  the  career  of  the 
"Octogenarian"  could  present  no  passage  or  incident  that 
would  furnish  at  least  a  useful  hint.  Let  him  hope,  then, 
that  this  late  labor  may  not  prove  entirely  in  vain. 

It  certainly  has  been  a  grateful  and  refreshing  occupa- 
tion, in  his  declining  years,  to  recall,  with  pen  in  hand, 
some  of  the  loved  associates  of  earlier  days,  in  scenes 
whose  charms  have  not  yet  faded  from  the  mind.  And 
may  the  reader,  when  he  too  is  far  along  on  life's  sunset 
slope,  enjoy  the  vivifying  sunshine  of  the  past ! 

As  readers  usually  desire  to  know  the  name  of  the 
author  whose  work  they  have  in  hand,  and  as  the  with- 
holding of  the  name  might  lead  to  embarrassing  miscon- 
ceptions, the  "Octogenarian,"  with  becoming  diffidence, 
subscribes  accordingly. 

JAMES  R.  NEWHALL. 

LYNN,  MASS.,  1893. 


CONTENTS. 


PART  I.  — Autobiographical  Sketches. 

PAGE 

BIRTHPLACE.  — GENEALOGICAL  RECORD 5-7 

LEAVE  HOME 7 

IN  M ARBLEHEAD 7-25 

HOW  I  CAME  TO  BE  A  PRINTER 25-27 

IN  SALEM  GAZETTE  OFFICE 27-35 

FIRST  VISIT  TO  BOSTON 35-47 

Bunker  Hill  Monument.  — Daniel  Webster.  — Caleb  Gushing.— 
"The  Statesman  in  a  Quandary."  —  Printing  Offices  and  Im- 
provements. 

IN  BOSTON •.   .  .     48-88 

Christian  Examiner.—  Phrenology.—  Mr.  Fowler.  — Dr.  Cald- 
well.  —  Dr.  Bowditch. —  Mr.  Grund. —  Anonymous  Writing. — 
Blunders  and  Annoyances  of  Printers.— Dr.  Channing.—  Coun- 
sellor Gill.— William  J.  Snelling.—  N.  P.  Willis.— Dr.  Beecher's 
Controversy. 

IN  NEW  YORK 88-99 

Conference  Office  (Methodist  Printing  Establishment).  — Mrs. 
Ann  S.  Stephens.  —  Walt  Whitman.— Broadway  in  1829.— 
Central  Park.  —  Pigs  and  Dogs,  and  other  Street  Sights. 

IN  PHILADELPHIA 99-J°7 

By  Steamer.  —  Joseph  Bonaparte. — Delaware  Bay. 

BACK  TO  BOSTON  — THENCE  TO  LYNN 107-130 

Lynn  Papers.  —  Alonzo  Lewis.  —  Lynn  Mirror  Purchased. — 
Weekly  Messenger. —  President  Jackson's  Message. —  Book  and 
Stationery  Store.  —  Liquors  and  Tobacco.  —  Exercise.  —  First 
Daguerreotype. 

AGAIN  IN  NEW  YORK 130-140 

Walter  Whitman.  —  Henry  Clapp,  "  King  of  the  Bohemians." 

—  McDonald    Clarke,  the    "Mad    Poet."— Theatres.  —  Fanny 
Ellsler.-P.  T.  Barnum. 

WRITING 140-151 

Newspapers.—  Works  Written.  — "Essex  Memorial."—"  Lin." 

—  Histories  of  Lynn.— Extraordinary  Phenomena:  a  Sportive 
Fiction,  Astronomical.  —  Early  Printers. 

A  LAWYER 151-170 

Profession  Chosen.  —  Sagamore  Building.  —  Lawyers  of  Lynn. 

—  Origin  of  Lynn  Police  Court.— Appointment  as  Justice.— 
Judicial  Terms,  30  Years.  —  Lawyers.  —  Foreign  Trip. 

AN  OCTOGENARIAN 171-182 

On  Christmas,  1889.— Banquet  tendered  by  the  Lynn  Bar. — 
Lynn  Press  Association. — Closing  Words. 


CONTENTS. 
PART  IL— Notes  of  Travel. 

CHAPTER  PAGE 

I.    OVER  THE  SEA  — NEW   YORK  TO    LONDON. 

IN  LONDON 185-204 

II.    LONDON  TO  BRIGHTON 204-209 

III.  LYNN  REGIS 209-226 

IV.  ELY  AND  CAMBRIDGE 227-228 

V.    ROUEN 229-235 

VI.    PARIS 235-240 

VII.    BRUSSELS  —  FIELD  OF  WATERLOO 240-248 

VIII.    ANTWERP  — BIRMINGHAM 249-254 

IX.    LIVERPOOL  TO  ALGIERS 254-265 

X.    MALTA 265-292 

XL  EGYPT — HER  PEOPLE  AND  HER  WONDERS  .  292-340 

XII.    THE  HOMEWARD  VOYAGE 341-374 


PART  EL  — Biographical  and  Other  Notices. 

PAGE 

INTRODUCTION  BY  EDITORS 377 

NOTICES  OF  JAMES  ROBINSON  NEWHALL 379-43° 

Editorial.  Daily  Evening  Item,  Uct.  24, 1893.  — Sketch  of  Life 
and  Public  Sen-ice,  Daily  Evening  Item,  Oct.  24,  1893.  —  Ed- 
itorial, Lynn  Daily  Press,  Oct.  24, 1893.  — Sketch,  Lynn  Daily 
Press,  Oct.  24,  1893.  — Obsequies  :  Sermon,  by  Kev.  James  H. 
Van  Buren.  — Will  of  Judge  Newhall,  Item,  Nov.  24,  1893. 
—  Residence,  Item,  Nov.  27,  1893.— Life-Size  Bust  of  Hippo- 
crates returned  to  Salem,  Salem  Daily  Gazette,  June  13,  1894.  — 
Memorial  Address  by  Nathan  M.  Hawkes,  delivered  before  the 
Lynn  Press  Association,  at  Lynn,  on  Anniversary  of  Benjamin 
Franklin's  Birthday,  Jan.  17,  1894.  — From  Memoirs  of  New 
England  Historic-Genealogical  Society,  Jan.,  1896,  by  Rev.  E. 
H.  Byington,  D.D.- Newhall  Family  Monument,  Item,  May 
29,  1896. 

NOTICES  OF  ELIZABETH  CAMPBELL  NEWHALL.  .  .  .  431-439 


Sketch,  Item,  May  27, 1896.  — Obsequies,  Item,  May  29. 1896.  - 
Sermon,  Rev.  James  H.  Van  Buren.  May  29,1896.—  Will. Eliza- 
beth C.  Newhall.  — Generous  Public  Bequests. 


INDEX 


439 


PART  I. 
AUTOBIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCHES. 


PART    I. 

Recollections,  Observations  and  Experiences, 


Soft  as  the  evening  sun  comes  the  memory  of  former  times  o'er  my  soul. 

—  Ossian. 

BEFORE  the  dawn  of  the  Centennial  Day  of 
American  Independence  —  July  4,  1876  — 
upon  the  rocky  crest  of  Reservoir  Hill,  in  Lynn, 
a  famous  bonfire  was  lighted ;  one  which  illumined 
the  landscape  for  miles  around  and  sent  its  search- 
ing beams  into  the  deep  forest  recesses  on  the 
north,  and  on  the  south,  far  over  the  waters  of 
Massachusetts  Bay  ;  discernible,  no  doubt,  to  the 
dwellers  on  Cape  Cod,  as  a  little  blazing  star.  The 
chief  material  of  that  bonfire  was  the  remains  of 
the  ancient  dwelling  house  that  stood  on  Boston 
street,  at  the  southwest  corner  of  North  Federal, 
and  which  by  the  ready  hands  of  young  enthusiasts 
had  been  demolished  the  evening  before  and  trans- 
ported to  the  commanding  elevation.  The  pile  was 
some  forty  feet  in  height,  and  formed  a  glowing 
altar,  around  which  the  assembled  throng  sent  up 
their  patriotic  shouts  and  sang  their  stirring  songs, 
hours  before  the  morning's  dawn. 

The  house  alluded  to  was  one  of  the  oldest  in 
Lynn  and  had  a  history  full  of  interest.  It  was 
the  nursery  of  the  now  extensive  Haven  family, 


6  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

which  has  already  numbered  in  its  line  two  bishops, 
and  many  otherwise  prominent  individuals.  There, 
too,  the  jHarts  lived  for  generations.  And  lastly 
the.Newhalls  for  many  years  made  it  their  home. 

And  now,  is  it  not  with  some  feeling  of  justifiable 
pride,  that  the  writer  of  these  notes  is  enabled  to 
say  that  within  those  venerable  walls,  he  was  born, 
on  Christmas  Day,  1809?  And  being  now  in  the 
eighty-fourth  year  of  his  age,  for  this  is  written  in 
1893,  he  deems  it  not  unfitting  that  this  volume, 
probably  the  last  that  he  will  ever  undertake  to  pre- 
pare, should  commence  with  the  relation  of  some 
experiences  and  the  jotting  of  some  reminiscences. 
Not  that  his  life  has  been  a  particularly  eventful 
one,  or  marked  by  incidents  especially  worthy  of 
emulation  or  useful  as  warnings.  Yet  it  may  be 
that  here  and  there  a  seed  may  be  dropped  that  will 
spring  up  and  bear  nourishing  fruit. 

A  genealogical  paragraph  would  seem  properly 
to  come  first  in  order.  All  his  genealogical  lines 
run  back  to  early  Lynn  settlers.  His  father  was 
Benjamin  Newhall,  who  was  born  in  1774  and  died 
in  1857  ;  Benjamin's  father  was  James,  born  in 
1731,  died  in  1801  ;  James's  father  was  Benjamin, 
born  in  1698,  died  in  1763  ;  Benjamin's  father  was 
Joseph,  born  in  1658,  died  in  1706;  Joseph's  father 
was  Thomas,  born  in  1630,  died  in  1687  —  the  first 
white  child  born  in  Lynn. 

The  mother  of  the  writer  was  Sarah,  a  daughter 
of  Joseph  Hart,  who  descended  from  Samuel,  one 
of  the  first  engaged  at  the  ancient  Iron  Works, 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  7 

established  on  the  border  of  Saugus  River  in  1643, 
said  to  have  been  the  first  in  America.  Grandfather 
Hart  was  a  farmer,  and  owned  the  land  on  the  west 
side  of  North  Federal  street,  from  Boston  street  all 
the  way  to  Walnut.  He  planted  largely  with  flax, 
and  his  field  is  said  to  have  looked  very  beautiful 
with  its  acres  of  blue  blossoms.  The  flax  was  used 
for  the  manufacture  of  tow  cloth,  a  very  durable 
though  not  handsome  fabric. 

Both  the  grandmothers  of  the  writer  were  grand- 
daughters of  Hon.  Ebenezer  Burrill,  so  conspicuous 
in  Colonial  times  as  a  Crown  Counsellor  and  Deputy 
to  the  General  Court,  a  younger  brother  of  Hon. 
John  Burrill,  the  eminent  Speaker  of  the  House  of 
Deputies,  whom  Gov.  Hutchinson  compared  to  Sir 
Arthur  Onslow,  considered  the  most  able  presiding 
officer  the  British  House  of  Commons  ever  had. 

LEAVE    HOME. 

ON  the  27th  of  October,  1821,  being  then  eleven 
years  of  age,  I  left  the  paternal  roof,  with  my 
worldly  possessions  in  a  bundle  handkerchief,  my 
mother  having  died  two  years  before,  and  my  father 
being  left  with  a  family  of  six,  all  young.  My 
first  home  after  leaving  my  father's  house  was 

IN    MARBLEHEAD. 

NEAR  the  entrance  of  that  quaint  old  seaport  town 
and  early  fishing  station,  stood  the  modest  house  of 
entertainment,  kept  by  Ma'am  Paine.  I  had  ridden 
over  with  my  uncle  David  Tufts,  who  ran  a  sort  of 


8  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

semi-weekly  express  and  was  accustomed  to  stop 
there  for  a  lunch  and  to  bait  his  horse.  It  was  a 
well  known  hospice  of  the  humbler  kind,  and  had 
every  appearance  of  being  a  survivor  of  Revolu- 
tionary days.  It  was  there  I  first  stopped  on  that 
eventful  day.  After  a  brief  pause  we  soon  reached 
my  destined  home  which  was  in  the  household  of 
Captain  Benoice  Johnson,  a  retired  master  mariner, 
whose  wife  was  a  cousin  of  mine.  There  my 
duties  were  such  as  usually  fall  to  the  lot  of  a  boy 
of  all  work,  with  school  duties  added. 

Of  course  there  cannot  be  much  worthy  of  notice 
occurring  at  this  period.  But  it  may  be  remarked 
that  one  of  the  first  things  that  I  noticed  after  entering 
the  school  was  the  almost  universal  profanity  among 
the  boys,  it  was  so  different  from  what  I  had  been 
accustomed  to.  But  the  habit,  I  found,  was  not 
confined  to  boys,  nor  even  to  the  old  "  sea  dogs  " 
who  then  constituted  a  considerable  part  of  the  pop- 
ulation. Almost  everybody  seemed  to  be  given  to 
that  intemperate  use  of  the  tongue,  apparently 
deeming  it  a  virtue  rather  than  a  vice.  Perhaps 
this  moral  laxity  may  be  accounted  for  as  the  effect 
of  the  war,  in  conjunction  with  the  peculiar  calling 
in  which  so  many  men  of  the  place  were  engaged. 

•I  remember  being  sent  one  evening  on  an  errand 
to  an  old  sea  captain.  He  was  sick,  and  requested 
that  I  should  come  up  to  his  chamber.  There  I 
found  him  blanketed  and  seated  before  the  fire. 
After  questioning  me  on  various  matters  he  abruptly 
said: 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  9 

"  My  boy,  do  you  swear?  " 

"  No,  sir,"  was  the  reply. 

"You  don't?  Well  it's  high  time  you  did;  you 
ought  to ;  you  seem  bright  enough ;  but  you  '11 
never  be  a  man  till  you  learn  to  swear." 

His  wife  was  in  the  room,  and  exclaimed  : 

"  Why,  husband,  what  makes  you  talk  so  to  that 
boy?" 

"  Because  I  want  to  make  a  man  of  him  ;  he 
seems  bright  enough." 

It  struck  me  that  he  really  thought  he  was  giving 
me  a  useful  lesson,  and  that  most  of  my  school 
fellows  had  received  similar  instruction,  and  fol- 
lowed it.  But  I  was  rather  disgusted  than  pleased. 
I  was  forcibly  reminded  of  this  little,  though  not 
unimportant  incident,  by  a  long  article  in  the  Bos- 
ton Herald,  of  September  19,  1893.  If  the  state- 
ments of  that  article  are  correct,  there  cannot  have 
been  much  improvement  during  these  seventy  years 
and  more,  the  vice  being  still  indulged  in,  as  the 
writer  remarks,  "to  an  alarming  extent  by  men 
and  boys,  and  some  women  and  girls."  And  he 
goes  on  to  give  various  specimens  that  greeted  his 
ears  during  a  late  visit.  In  conversation  with  a 
young  man  who  himself  uttered  a  redundancy  of 
profane  expletives  which  are  judiciously  suppressed, 
he,  the  young  man,  freely  remarked  that  it  seemed 
to  make  but  very  little  difference  what  people  swear 
about.  The  most  commonplace  conversation  is 
enlivened  by  verbal  pyrotechnics  that  fairly  dazzle 
one.  One  cannot  walk  along  the  sidewalks  at 


IO  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

night  without  being  shocked,  if  he  is  at  all  impres- 
sionable. It  may  be  that  the  users  of  profane 
words  put  them  in  more  because  they  have  an  im- 
perfect knowledge  of  English  and  wish  to  fill  up  a 
break  in  their  talk,  than  because  they  wish  to  give 
force  to  their  opinions.  Alluding  to  his  own  case, 
he  said,  "  I  frequently  drop  a  swear  word  just  as 
naturally  as  I  breathe,  and  just  as  involuntarily. 
A  good  many  boys  acquire  the  habit,  because  they 
think  the  words  sound  big  and  brave.  The  fact 
that  Marblehead  children  are  accustomed  to  the  use 
of  profanity  is  the  more  to  be  deplored,  because  they 
are  generally  well  behaved  and  more  easily  subject 
to  good  influences  than  the  children  of  a  big  city." 
The  Herald  ®i  the  next  day  contained  an  editorial 
on  the  subject,  remarking  that  when  the  clergy, 
the  schools  and  the  local  papers  induce  the  ordinary 
citizen  of  Marblehead  to  stop  swearing,  they  will 
make  over  that  provincial  community,  and  the  first 
dawn  of  the  millennium  will  take  place.  It  is 
almost  ingrained  for  the  native  Marbleheader  to 
swear.  It  is  said  that  he  is  brought  up  on  swear- 
ing, that  his  first  introduction  to  the  English  lan- 
guage is  in  the  use  of  "  cuss  words."  ... 
"Marblehead  is  a  quaint  and  beautiful  old  town, 
and  the  habit  of  profanity  is  not  one  of  its  legiti- 
mate antiquities.  If  the  clergy  and  the  teachers  of 
the  public  schools  will  take  hold  of  this  matter,  and 
make  a  proper  crusade  against  it,  something  can  be 
done ;  but  it  is  a  vice  that  seems  to  be  deeply  in- 
grained in  the  lives  of  many  of  the  young  people 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  II 

in  these  old  New  England  seaport  towns."  The 
last  clause  coupling  Gloucester  and  Newburyport 
with  Marblehead. 

It  hardly  need  be  added  that  the  charges  created 
something  of  a  sensation,  elicited  much  indignation 
and  some  vigorous  protests,  not  enlivened,  it  is 
hoped,  by  any  of  the  profane  excesses.  I  was 
greatly  surprised  on  reading  the  reminders  of  my 
own  early  observations,  for  I  believed  the  habit  had 
long  ago  receded  to  the  common  level,  at  least. 
And  I  almost  wondered  how  it  was  that  I  escaped 
the  contamination,  considering  the  special  instruc- 
tion received  from  that  sick  old  would-be  mentor, 
and  my  school  and  playground  surroundings.  But 
somehow  it  was  never  in  accordance  with  my  taste 
to  have  the  God-given  organs  of  speech  abused  by 
profane  utterances.  May  the  efforts  for  the  sup- 
pression of  the  evil  habit  which  have  recently  been 
energetically  commenced  continue  till  the  vice 
withers  away. 

It  does  really  seem  as  if  profanity  was  especially 
prevalent  in  maritime  places.  And  why  it  is  so 
seems  mysterious.  It  would  naturally  be  supposed 
that  mariners,  of  all  others,  being  so  constantly 
exposed  to  perils  and  dangers  of  the  most  distress- 
ing kind,  and  often  called  to  suddenly  meet  death 
face  to  face,  as  it  were,  would  be  led  to  deep 
thoughtfulness  and  circumspection.  But  the  effect 
of  their  dire  exposure  seems  to  be  just  the  contrary, 
making  them  more  reckless  and  defiant.  This  is 
one  of  the  unsolved  enigmas  of  human  nature. 


12  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

There  was  another  thing  that  made  me  prick  up  my 
juvenile  ears,  soon  after  reaching  Marblehead.  And 
that  was  the  odd  way  in  which  the  school  boys,  and 
as  to  that,  many  of  the  elderly  people,  pronounced 
certain  words,  or  rather  words  in  which  certain  let- 
ters appeared ;  especially  the  sound  of  w  being 
given  to  v  ;  as,  for  instance,  veal  and  vinegar  being 
called  weal  and  winegar  ;  a  was  given  the  sound  of 
0,  as,  form  for  farm,  and  blocksmith  for  blacksmith. 
And  many  other  peculiarities  were  common.  I  re- 
member that  one  time  when  I  had  some  trifle  in  my 
hand  that  I  was  about  to  throw  away,  a  companion 
eagerly  called  out  to  me,  "  O,  don't  heave  that 
avay ;  it's  wuth  some  walley."  I  could  not  at  first 
understand  that  his  "wuth  some  walley"  meant 
worth  some  value. 

The  more  cultivated  classes  were  not  given  to 
these  lingual  eccentricities ;  but  notwithstanding 
their  example,  the  drilling  of  the  teachers  and  the 
laughter  of  strangers,  the  great  body  of  the  youth 
seemed  incurable.  The  custom  maintains  its  foot- 
hold, to  some  extent,  to  this  day ;  and  will  not 
probably  fall  into  entire  disuse  so  long  as  the  "  Old 
Flood  Ireson"  couplets  survive,  and  survive  they 
very  likely  will  as  long  as  any  lines  of  New  Eng- 
land versification.  They  stand  forth  with  a  glory 
all  their  own : 

"  Old  Flood  Ireson  for  his  hord  hort 
Was  torr'd  and  feather'd  and  cor'd  in  a  cort; 
Old  Flood  Ireson  for  leaving  the  wreck, 
Was  torr'd  and  feather'd  all  up  to  his  neck." 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  13 

I  knew  one  of  those  present  on  the  occasion,  and 
in  telling  me  about  it  he  said  it  was  on  a  bright 
moonlight  night,  and  they  rode  Ireson  as  far  towards 
Salem  as  Wyman's  mill,  on  Forest  River.  The 
event  was,  in  reality,  an  outburst  of  the  most 
humane  feeling  on  the  part  of  the  Marbleheaders, 
they  having  been  informed  that  Ireson,  who  was 
commander  of  a  schooner,  had  on  a  late  voyage 
passed  a  wrecked  vessel,  refusing  to  give  any  assist- 
ance to  the  distressed  crew.  It  was  his  punishment 
for  this  hard  heartedness,  and  well  shows  the  kindly 
feelings  of  the  rough-coated  fishermen.  Later 
years,  however,  developed  the  fact  that  Ireson  by 
no  means  deserved  the  indignity ;  that  the  report 
was  set  on  foot  by  some  of  his  nautical  enemies. 
Of  this  fact,  it  is  said,  the  poet  Whittier  became 
convinced,  and  deeply  regretted  having  taken  part 
in  perpetuating,  by  his  poetic  pen,  the  base  slander. 
But  the  incident  will  long  remain  a  marked  point 
in  Marblehead's  history. 

One  word  more  as  to  the  school,  which  was  kept 
in  the  old  Town  House.  I  soon  noticed,  young  as 
I  was,  that  it  was  much  in  advance  of  the  one  I 
had  attended  in  Lynn,  both  in  studies  and  discipline. 
I  did  not  find  that  I  could  march  onward  by  any 
such  method  as  that  by  which  I  once  attained  the 
head  of  my  class,  in  the  old  school  under  Master 
Blanchard.  On  that  occasion  the  Chairman  of  the 
Committee,  good  old  Doctor  Gardner,  was  examin- 
ing us.  The  boys  seemed  a  little  afraid  of  him, 
and  answered  his  questioning  too  faintly  to  please 


14  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

him.  At  length  he  lost  all  patience  and  declared 
that  the  boy  who  would  speak  up  the  loudest  should 
go  to  the  head.  Feeling  that  my  chance  had  come, 
I  vociferated  with  such  power  as  to  gain  the  position. 


AMONG  my  other  duties  as  a  boy  of  all  work, 
was  that  of  driving  a  cow  to  pasture,  a  cheery  duty 
for  any  boy ;  and  I  am  sure  that  my  bright,  rosy, 
morning  excursions  were  highly  exhilarating  and 
enjoyable.  One  little  incident  connected  with  that 
duty,  I  have  reason  to  believe  made  such  an  im- 
pression that  its  influence  has  not  ceased  to  this  far- 
off  day ;  an  influence  that  has  led  me  to  place  a 
far  higher  estimate  on  the  intelligence  of  the  brute 
creation  than  would  otherwise  have  been  possible, 
and  induced  a  more  just  recognition  of  their  abili- 
ties, rights  and  needs.  The  pasture  was  almost 
two  miles  away,  and  I  drove  Old  Brindle  there  every 
morning,  and  went  for  her  at  evening.  We  had  a 
good  understanding  together,  for  she  was  so  gentle 
and  companionable  that  we  sometimes  jogged  along 
the  lonely  lane  with  my  arm  about  her  neck.  One 
night  I  was  belated  and  did  not  reach  the  pasture 
till  it  was  growing  dark.  It  was  a  wild  November 
night,  and  a  hollow  wind  was  sweeping  over  the 
bare  hills.  As  I  reached  the  bars  I  found  the  cow 
there  in  a  strange  sort  of  excitement.  She  was 
pacing  back  and  forth,  and  her  face  bore  an  ex- 
pression such  as  I  had  never  seen  there  before,  and 
which  instantly  struck  me  as  indicating  some  new 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  15 

and  determined  course  of  action.  Her  head  was 
erect,  her  eyes  glaring,  and  her  whole  aspect  so 
unwonted  that  I  hesitated  to  release  her.  But  no 
time  was  to  be  lost,  and  so  down  went  the  bars. 
And  then  away  she  dashed  in  a  direction  very 
different  from  that  which  we  had  always  taken.  I 
tried  my  utmost  to  turn  her  towards  the  old  way, 
but  my  efforts  were  powerless.  She  kept  on  at 
full  speed,  till  she  reached  a  piece  of  swamp,  wet 
and  overgrown  by  a  tangled  growth,  but  through 
which  a  narrow  path  led  to  the  neighboring  upland. 
This  almost  invisible  path  she  took,  and  I  soon 
found  it  would  materially  shorten  our  way  home. 
How  she  discovered  that  new  and  shorter  way  I 
could  not  imagine,  for  I  had  never  taken  her  in  that 
direction,  and  had  not  known  that  it  existed.  When 
we  were  through  and  safely  on  our  old  road  she 
was  as  docile  as  ever,  and  looking  around  at  me, 
seemed  to  say,  "  There,  now,  have  n't  I  shown  you 
a  better  way  than  the  old,  stony,  long  road  over  the 
hill?  Now  let  this  be  our  future  route."  And  ever 
after  it  was  our  chosen  way. 

That  incident,  I  say,  made  a  deep  impression  on 
my  young  mind,  and  I  think  has  borne  some  good 
fruit.  I  can  now  in  memory  see  that  cow's  look  as 
I  reached  the  bars,  evincing  her  determination  to 
carry  her  point  against  any  attempt  of  mine  to 
thwart  her  purpose ;  an  almost  fierce  look,  that 
faded  away  into  the  accustomed  calmness  when  she 
saw  that  I  comprehended  her  object. 

Do  not  animals  reason?     I  knew  by  that  cow's 


l6  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

look,  before  the  bars  were  down,  that  she  was 
chewing  something  besides  her  cud.  Undoubtedly 
she  was  reasoning  as  to  the  best  way  in  which  to 
meet  my  opposition,  which  she  knew  she  would 
have  to  encounter.  The  lesson  that  I  received  from 
that  cow  I  am  sure  induced  a  greater  fellow-feeling, 
I  had  almost  said  respect,  for  all  God's  lower  creat- 
ures. And  it  seems  as  if  some  such  feeling  were 
fast  growing  in  the  community. 

Some  years  ago  I  had  occasion  to  call  on  a  pro- 
fessor at  his  study  in  one  of  our  colleges ;  and  he 
was  a  Doctor  of  Divinity  as  well.  In  the  course  of 
conversation  remarks  were  made  about  the  instinct 
or  reasoning  of  animals.  I  presently  found  he 
was  trying  to  "  draw  me  out,"  as  the  phrase  goes, 
and  without  any  hesitancy  expressed  my  views. 
After  a  little  while  he  frankly  declared  that  he  had 
been  subjected  to  much  criticism  from  his  fellow 
professors  by  expressing  his  settled  belief  in  the 
immortality  of  the  moving  principle  in  all  animal 
life. 

As  is  well  known,  there  have  been  recent  attempts 
to  discover  the  meaning  of  different  sounds  uttered 
by  animals,  in  fact  to  resolve  them  into  words. 
And  some  progress  seems  to  have  been  made. 
Perhaps  we  shall,  in  the  distant  future,  have  dic- 
tionaries of  the  languages  of  animals.  The  late 
Bayard  Taylor  is  said  to  have  believed  that  some- 
thing of  the  kind  may  eventually  be  realized.  The 
idea  is  no  more  absurd  than  that  recently  promul- 
gated by  some  astute  scientists,  who  teach  that  the 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  17 

time  is  not  probably  far  distant  when  the  people  on 
our  globe  will  hold  some  sort  of  communication, 
perhaps  through  electricity,  with  the  people  on  the 
planet  Mars. 

Another  rather  striking  instance  of  animal  rea- 
soning once  occurred  in  my  experience.  A  neigh- 
bor, whose  place  of  business  was  opposite  mine,  on 
the  same  street,  had  a  watch-dog  of  very  keen  per- 
ception of  canine  duties.  He  was  greatly  prized, 
but  after  some  negotiation  the  master  agreed  to  sell 
him  to  me.  The  dog  was  usually  present  at  our 
attempts  to  come  to  terms.  Finally,  the  bargain  was 
closed  and  the  money  paid,  the  dog  looking  on 
attentively  and  seeming  to  comprehend  the  meaning 
of  what  was  being  done.  Then,  when  told  to  go 
with  me,  without  any  hesitation  he  complied.  And 
never  after  would  he  follow  his  old  master ;  indeed 
he  would  hardly  recognize  him  as  they  met  day 
by  day.  He  continued  faithful  to  me  from  the 
moment  he  saw  the  money  paid  and  received  the 
command  to  go.  He  had  no  doubt  seen  his  master, 
who  was  a  store  keeper,  many  times  sell  goods, 
receive  pay  and  make  delivery  ;  and  hence,  per- 
haps conceived  himself  to  be  sold  as  a  part  of  the 
stock  in  trade. 

It  has  been  said  that  the  act  of  suicide  is  one  of 
the  strongest  evidences  of  the  supremacy  of  mind 
over  matter  —  of  the  power  of  the  soul  over  the 
body.  In  that  act,  the  unseen  mind  wills  the 
destruction  of  the  visible  body  and  the  body  has  no 
power  to  withstand  the  destroying  impulse.  Indeed 


l8  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

it  has  been  claimed  that  the  power  to  commit  suicide 
is  the  highest  proof  of  the  immortality  of  the  soul, 
inasmuch  as  it  proves  the  soul  to  be  uncontrolled  by 
matter.  Now  it  seems  to  be  a  well  established  fact 
that  the  lower  animals  do  sometimes  commit  suicide. 
And  if  that  is  conceded,  to  what  conclusion  are  we 
irresistibly  led?  The  following  instance  of  what 
appeared  to  be  a  clear  case  of  suicide  by  a  pig  I 
witnessed  many  years  ago.  Some  men  were  driv- 
ing a  number  of  pigs  down  Nahant  Street,  in  Lynn. 
Soon  after  they  came  in  sight  of  the  breakers  that 
rolled  up  the  beach,  one  of  the  pigs  made  a  dash 
down  to  the  water,  and  was  soon  beyond  his  depth. 
The  men  rushed  to  his  rescue  and  finally  succeeded 
in  getting  him  back  to  the  drove.  But  that  had 
hardly  been  accomplished  when  he  made  another 
frantic  dash  for  the  water,  and  this  time  succeeded 
in  baffling  all  their  efforts,  and  while  I  stood  look- 
ing on,  his  dead  body  floated  ashore.  Now  sup- 
posing one  had  seen  a  man  meet  death  in  just  that 
way,  would  he  not  have  called  it  an  unmistakable 
act  of  suicide? 

And  now  a  word  as  to  snakes,  those  terrors  to 
most  people.  They  are  proverbially  a  cunning 
race.  And  what  is  cunning  but  an  intellectual 
trait?  But  the  purpose  here  is  to  speak  of  another 
and  quite  different  trait,  namely  their  mutual  at- 
tachments. Apparently  no  husband  and  wife  could 
have  stronger  love  for  each  other  than  some  of  these 
dreaded  reptiles.  It  is  asserted  that  they  will  often 
die  for  each  other.  I  had  heard  of  this  characteristic, 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  19 

and  as  a  laborer  one  day  showed  me  a  large  black 
snake  that  he  had  just  killed,  I  asked  him  to  let  the 
body  remain  exposed  and  see  what  would  happen. 
I  kept  watch  of  it  myself,  and  think  it  was  on 
the  next  morning  that  I  saw  another  snake  of  the 
same  kind  and  about  the  same  size,  by  the  side  of 
the  dead  one  ;  but  he  instantly  glided  away.  Very 
soon  after,  I  saw  what  was  evidently  the  same  one 
again  there ;  but  his  retreat  was  much  less  active ; 
indeed  it  seemed  as  if  he  did  not  much  care  whether 
he  got  off  at  all.  And  then,  the  next  time,  a  morn- 
ing or  two  after,  I  found  him  early  at  his  post,  where 
he  lay  entirely  inactive,  evidently  prepared  to  yield 
up  his  life,  and  calmly  submitted  to  the  fatal  blows 
that  fell  upon  him.  It  seemed  such  an  instance  of 
passionate  devotion  as  to  be  really  pathetic ;  and  it 
was  some  relief  to  see  them  laid  beside  each  other 
under  the  same  sod. 

An  instance  in  confirmation  of  the  shrewdness 
sometimes  manifested  by  our  brethren  of  the  sup- 
posed lower  orders  of  animal  existence,  was  wit- 
nessed on  a  chilly  November  morning,  some  thirty 
years  ago.  And  it  relates  to  a  bevy  of  wild  geese, 
an  order  usually  regarded  as  of  rather  more  than 
ordinary  obtuseness.  Being  in  an  open  field,  my 
attention  was  attracted  by  the  more  than  ordinarily 
loud  trumpetings  of  two  or  three  flocks  coming  over 
the  hills  on  their  migratory  journey  towards  the 
south.  They  came  from  different  quarters,  but  were 
rapidly  approaching  each  other,  and  seemed  in  great 
haste,  as  a  storm  was  pursuing  them.  As  the  flocks 


20  .    LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

neared  each  other  their  vociferations  became  terrific  ; 
and  it  seemed  as  if  a  desperate  collision  were  about 
to  take  place.  Now  any  one  who  has  watched  such 
flocks  will  have  observed  that  there  are  always 
some  that  fall  behind,  probably  from  weakness  of 
wing,  as  it  can  hardly  be  from  mere  laziness ;  but 
from  whatever  cause,  these  laggards  are  a  heavy 
weight  on  the  skirts  of  the  main  body.  When  the 
flocks  in  question  came  together,  as  they  soon  did, 
instead  of  engaging  in  battle,  they  began  seemingly 
to  discuss  matters  of  importance  to  their  mutual 
welfare.  The  result  was  that  from  each  flock  were 
detached  all  the  laggards,  which  were  formed  into 
a  separate  flock,  and  apparently  directed  to  take  a 
course  more  inland  and  safe,  while  the  others, 
separating  into  two  or  three  squadrons,  as  before, 
pursued  the  more  venturesome  course  over  the  sea. 
This  seemed  a  fair  and  conscientious  arrangement, 
and  the  subdued  trumpetings,  which  were  heard  as 
long  as  their  retreating  bodies  dotted  the  horizon, 
seemed  to  indicate  that  all  were  well  pleased.  Wit- 
nessing this  exhibition,  could  one  fail  to  see  in  it  a 
most  effectual  and  at  the  same  time  humane  way  of 
dismissing  a  set  of  embarrassing  hangers  on? 

Some  of  these  views  of  the  higher  characteristics 
and  higher  destinies  of  all  animal  life,  here  noted, 
are  certainly  fast  gaining  ground  among  the  more 
eminent  scientists  and  moralists  —  at  least  they 
are  eliciting  more  serious  discussion  than  ever  be- 
fore. 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  21 

BUT  to  return  to  Marblehead. 

That  ancient  town,  as  is  well  known  to  every  one 
acquainted  with  the  early  history  of  our  country, 
was,  in  late  provincial  and  early  constitutional  times, 
among  the  foremost  of  New  England  settlements. 
She  had  a  large  and  prosperous  fishing  business,  a 
lucrative  West  India  trade  and  considerable  foreign 
commerce.  And  she  became  renowned  for  her 
wealth  in  gold.  It  is  even  said  that  her  gamesters 
refused  silver  in  their  stakes,  scorning  any  venture 
below  a  doubloon. 

In  the  first  year  of  the  Revolution  she  sent  forth 
a  regiment  of  a  thousand  men,  to  fight  the  battles 
of  freedom,  and  .otherwise  showed  her  devotion  to 
the  nation's  cause.  In  the  early  part  of  the  present 
century,  however;  her  prosperity  began  rapidly  to 
wane ;  not  in  the  matter  of  patriotism,  but  in  mate- 
rial prosperity.  The  embargo  of  1807  was  a  sad 
blow,  for  by  it  her  loss  was  computed  to  be  not  less 
than  a  million  dollars.  At  the  time  when  I  made 
my  home  there,  she  had  so  fallen  from  her  high 
position  that  she  ranked  as  fourth  in  population  even 
in  Essex  County. 

But  Marblehead  has  a  history  distinguished  and 
enduring.  Honored  names  adorn  her  annals. 

He  who  reads  that  memorable  pronunciamento, 
the  Declaration  of  American  Independence,  will 
find  inscribed  upon  it  the  name  of  Elbridge  Gerry, 
then  but  thirty-two  years  of  age,  and  a  member  of 
the  Continental  Congress.  In  1812  he  was  chosen 
Vice  President  of  the  United  States,  and  died  in 


22  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

Washington,  in  1814,  having  been  almost  constantly 
in  public  service  from  the  time  he  first  entered  Con- 
gress. He  was  a  "true  son  of  Marblehead. 

General  Glover,  also  'a  native  of  Marblehead, 
had  the  honor  of  conducting  the  advance  portion 
of  Washington's  army,  when  on  the  perilous  night 
of  the  25th  of  December,  1776,  they  intrepidly 
crossed  the  Delaware,  and  achieved  the  signal  vic- 
tories that  so  reinspired  the  drooping  spirits  of  the 
whole  nation.  He  was  also  placed  in  command  of 
the  troops  that  conducted  Burgoyne  through  New 
England  after  his  surrender.  To  him  likewise  fell 
the  painful  duty  of  acting  as  one  of  the  board 
of  General  Officers  who  condemned  the  ill-fated 
Major  Andre  to  the  scaffold. 

Captain  James  Mugford,  a  noted  naval  commander 
in  the  Revolution,  was  likewise  a  native  of  Marble- 
head.  His  brave  achievements  on  the  sea  were 
highly  appreciated ;  especially  his  capture  of  a 
British  ship  laden  with  warlike  material,  when 
almost  in  sight  of  her  destined  port.  The  spirits 
of  the  patriots  rose  on  the  event,  for  they  were 
solely  in  need  of  such  supplies. 

And  down  in  later  times  are  found  names  of  sons 
of  Marblehead  which  it  would  be  pleasant  here  to 
record  did  space  permit. 

There  was  Dr.  Edward  A.  Holyoke,  who  died  in 
Salem,  in  1829,  at  the  age  of  an  hundred  years 
and  eight  months ;  an  eminent  physician  and  scien- 
tist. I  remember  him  well  as  he  used  to  step  up 
lightly,  being  slender  of  stature,  into  the  pulpit  of 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  23 

the  old  North  Church,  and  seat  himself  by  the 
minister,  for  the  purpose  of  more  readily  hearing 
the  services. 

Judge  Joseph  Story,  the  able  jurist  who  so  long 
adorned  the  bench  of  the  United  States  Supreme 
Court,  and  did  so  much  by  his  luminous  works  to 
solve  the  difficulties  and  set  forth  the  true  principles 
of  law  and  equity,  was  a  native  of  Marblehead. 


THERE  were  several  gentlemen  boarders  at  our 
house ;  among  them  the  master  of  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal district  schools.  It  is  as  well  not  to  repeat 
his  name,  though  I  remember  it  perfectly  well. 
He  was  a  good-natured,  generous-hearted  young 
man ;  very  talkative  and  very  profane.  Whether 
he  garnished  his  utterances  in  school  by  his  blasphe- 
mies I  do  not  know ;  but  if  he  did  not,  he  must 
have  exercised  great  self-restraint  and  watchfulness 
over  his  unruly  member.  An  incident  occurred  be- 
tween him  and  a  fellow-boarder,  a  physician,  which 
made  quite  an  impression  on  me,  though  I  was  not 
old  enough  to  comprehend  its  full  force  and  bearing, 
inasmuch  as  it  related  to  the  tender  affections  which 
are  not  often  developed  in  one  of  my  then  brief 
years. 

This  Schoolmaster  was  engaged  to  a  lady  in  Bos- 
ton, and  in  his  incessant  talkativeness  frequently 
spoke  of  her.  At  length  he  began  to  intimate  that 
his  prospects  were  so  little  promising  that  it  would 
be  best  that  the  engagement  should  be  broken. 


24  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

Whether  he  came  to  the  conclusion  for  her  good 
or  his  own,  I  do  not  know.  But  on  one  of  his 
desponding  days  he  told  the  Doctor  that  if  he  would 
go  to  Boston  as  his  friend  and  confidant  and  in  a 
delicate  way  express  to  her  his  conviction,  and  if 
possible  obtain  her  acquiescence  in  an  indefinite 
postponement  of  the  union,  he  would  pay  all  the 
expenses  of  the  trip. 

The  Doctor  at  once  agreed  to  the  proposition,  and 
said  he  would  go  the  next  day,  which  was  Saturday. 
The  time  is  very  well  remembered  from  my  having 
been  detailed  to  go  to  the  stable  and  engage  the 
horse  and  chaise.  It  seems  not  improbable  that  the 
Doctor,  who  was  a  sober,  considerate  sort  of  man, 
really  thought  it  would  be  meritorious  on  his  part 
to  do  the  errand,  inasmuch  as  it  would  quite  likely 
prove  a  happy  deliverance  for  the  lady.  Be  that 
as  it  may,  the  Doctor  did  go,  and  on  his  return, 
somewhat  after  dark,  reported  that  he  had  fulfilled 
his  mission,  was  kindly  received,  patiently  listened 
to,  and  had  his  proposition  graciouslv  and  promptly 
acceded  to.  And  he  added  that  his  scholastic  friend 
could  now  consider  the  engagement  at  an  end,  the 
severance  having  been  sealed  by  a  mutual  kiss. 
The  kiss  seemed  rather  a  staggerer.  Nevertheless  a 
calmness  becoming  the  Saturday  eventide  prevailed. 

On  Sunday  morning,  however,  a  fierce  storm 
broke ;  a  storm  that  was  riven  by  almost  incessant 
flashes  of  profanity.  The  Schoolmaster  declared  that 
he  had  not  believed  the  account  given  by  the  Doc- 
tor the  evening  before  ;  that  he  himself  was  joking, 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  25 

all  through,  as  the  Doctor  ought  to  have  known ; 
and  that  he  must  instantly  set  off  for  Boston  and 
endeavor  to  repair  the  mischief  that  had  been  done. 
How  he  did  storm  !  And  it  stormed  without,  too, 
for  a  cold  rain  had  set  in.  Breakfast  nor  anything 
else  could  detain  the  irate  pedagogue,  and  away  he 
dashed  behind  a  fleet  roadster. 

On  the  Schoolmaster's  return  the  denunciatory 
storm  with  its  vivid  flashes  of  profanity  was  renewed. 
And  it  was  continued,  with  an  occasional  lull  in 
respect  for  the  presence  of  others,  till  he  quit  the 
house,  declaring  that  he  would  no  longer  live  under 
the  same  roof  with  such  a  knave  as  that  Doctor. 
On  the  evening  of  his  departure  he  presented  me 
with  a  handsome  volume  of  "Byron's  Tragedies," 
a  book  that  I  could  about  as  well  comprehend  and 
fathom  as  I  could  the  sentiments  that  so  agitated  his 
own  mind.  What  the  final  outcome  of  the  love 
affair  was,  I  do  not  know,  but  suppose  the  engage- 
ment was  never  renewed.  The  occurrence,  how- 
ever, did  lead  me  to  think  there  was  something 
about  such  things,  some  attractions,  fascinations  or 
repulsions,  that  I  might  possibly  comprehend  as  I 
grew  older.  And  I  may  add  that  during  the  seventy 
years  that  have  intervened  between  that  time  and 
this,  a  good  many  things  that  were  riddles  then  are 
plain  enough  now. 

HOW    I    CAME    TO    BE    A    PRINTER. 

WHEN  about  fourteen  years  old  it  began  to  be 
thought  about  time  for  me  to  be  initiated  into  the 


26  .LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

mysteries  of  some  regular  employment  that  was  to 
be  a  staff  of  life.  Boys  then  did  not  expect  to  at 
once  launch  out  in  life  from  school  or  home,  full- 
fledged  gentlemen,  even  if  their  friends  had  abund- 
ant means,  which  very  few  at  that  period  had. 
More  especially  were  boys  of  the  humbler  classes 
expected  to  learn  a  trade.  Indeed,  every  one  felt, 
and  should  now  feel,  that  a  good  trade  is  the  sure 
thing  to  fall  back  upon  if  overtaken  by  adversity  in 
any  shape. 

The  question  came  as  to  what  employment  I  was 
best  suited  for.  Captain  Johnson  was  the  owner  of 
a  dry  goods  store,  in  which  considerable  business 
was  done.  Into  this  store  I  was  put;  and  at  the 
same  time  a  vivacious  girl,  about  my  own  age,  who 
had  just  graduated  from  the  academy,  was  also 
installed.  The  association  was  pleasant  but  the 
work  tedious.  I  had  to  go  out  with  bundles  in  all 
weathers,  and  was  often  kept  late  in  the  evening 
sorting  goods  and  doing  chores.  And,  by  the  way, 
it  was  on  one  of  these  store  errands  that  the  instruc- 
tions on  profanity,  before  alluded  to,  were  received. 
It  is  needless  to  say  that  with  my  girl  companion  I 
had  occasional  disagreements.  Did  ever  a  boy  and 
girl  placed  as  we  were  get  along  without  occasional 
variances?  She  was  bright,  good-natured  and  fond 
of  fun.  I  liked  her  very  much  ;  but  being  the  step- 
daughter of  the  proprietor,  thought  she  was  inclined 
to  put  rather  too  much  of  the  burden  on  my  shoul- 
ders. I  soon  sickened  of  the  store  business. 

My  discontent  was  quickly  discovered,  and  it  was 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  27 

concluded  that  some  mechanical  employment  would 
better  fit  my  case.  But  what  trade  would  be  most 
fitting  was  a  serious  question.  I  would  see  carpen- 
ters at  work  and  think  I  would  like  to  be  one  of 
them  ;  then  tailors,  then  bakers,  and  so  on.  Finally, 
one  evening  there  came  over  from  Salem  two  or 
three  young  friends  to  visit  the  chief  manager  of 
our  store,  who  was  himself  from  Salem  ;  a  very 
estimable  young  man,  who  afterward  became  a 
prominent  retail  merchant  in  Boston.  And  I  may, 
in  passing,  remark  that  he  married  the  young  Miss 
of  whom  I  have  just  spoken.  The  next  morning, 
after  the  departure  of  the  Salem  visitors,  my  mis- 
tress asked  how  I  would  like  to  be  a  printer ;  add- 
ing that  one  of  the  visitors  was  Mr.  Andrews,  of 
the  Salem  Gazette,  and  that  he  said  he  would  take 
me  into  his  office  and  teach  me  the  trade  if  I  would 
like.  A  printer  !  That,  I  joyfully  answered,  would 
be  just  what  I  should  like  above  all  things  to  be. 
And  I  thought  nothing  more  about  carpenters,  tail- 
ors, bakers,  or  any  such  tradesmen  ;  yet  I  had  never 
been  in  a  printing  office  or  seen  a  printer's  type. 


IN    SALEM. 

I  REMEMBER,  with  a  distinctness  as  clear  as  if  it 
were  but  six  days  instead  of  sixty-nine  years  ago, 
the  hot  August  afternoon,  when  I,  a  boy  of  four- 
teen, after  a  dusty  walk  from  Marblehead,  made 
my  first  appearance  in  the  Salem  Gazette  office.  I 
can  see  the  genial  smile  of  Ferdinand  Andrews,  the 


28  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

proprietor,  as  he  glances  over  the  letter  of  introduc- 
tion that  I  extend  to  him,  and  hear  his  pleasant 
salutation,  "So  then,  you  are  the  boy  in  question, 
are  you?  Well,  well,  take  off  your  jacket,  and 
we'll  soon  see  what  can  be  done."  Off  comes  the 
jacket,  and  without  further  ceremony  the  "  boy  in 
question  "  is  installed  upon  an  empty  type-box  at  a 
case  of  long  primer,  by  the  side  of  the  genial  young 
Caleb  Foote,  who  seems  at  once  to  take  upon  him- 
self the  direction  of  the  neophyte's  incipient  efforts. 
I  had  never  set  foot  in  a  printing  office  before,  and 
of  course  every  thing  was  new  and  puzzling.  Under 
such  good  instruction,  however,  a  fair  insight  into 
the  mysteries  of  the  craft  was  speedily  obtained. 
And  it  must  be  added,  in  a  moralizing  way,  that  if 
employers  in  these  days  were  all  as  faithful  as  those 
with  whom  my  lot  was  cast,  there  would  not  be  so 
many  incompetent  and  untrustworthy  workman  drift- 
ing about.  The  management  of  young  employes 
has  strangely  and  not  beneficially  changed  since 
those  days. 

Mr.  Andrews  did  not  long  continue  in  the  office 
after  my  coming,  but  commenced  business  else- 
where. A  few  years  subsequently,  however,  he 
was  back  in  Salem  as  publisher  of  the  Landmark, 
a  religious  paper,  the  same  in  which  the  famous 
allegory  of  "Deacon  Giles's  Distillery,"  written  by 
Rev.  George  B.  Cheever,  first  appeared,  creating 
such  a  fermentation  as  finallv  led  to  the  imprison- 
ment of  the  reverend  author  as  a  libeller.  The 
Landmark  did  not  long  exist,  and  Mr.  Andrews 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  29 

some  time  after  appeared  in  the  editorial  depart- 
ment of  a  leading  Boston  daily.  Still  later  he  was 
in  one  of 'the  government  departments  at  Washing- 
ton, where  he  remained  till  his  decease,  an  octoge- 
narian. Mr.  Foote  is  still,  1893,  living  in  peaceful 
old  age  at  Salem.  On  the  28th  of  February  he 
completed  his  ninetieth  year,  and  at  the  time  was  in 
good  health,  mental  and  physical.  He  entered  the 
Gazette  office  as  an  apprentice  in  1817,  passed 
through  the  degrees  of  journeyman  and  foreman  on 
to  the  editorial  chair,  completing  an  unbroken  term 
of  service  of  seventy-five  years.  He  retired  but  a 
year  or  two  ago.  On  a  recent  call  at  the  office  I 
was  informed  that  he  frequently  drops  in  and  for  a 
while  occupies  his  accustomed  chair. 

Printers'  boys,  in  the  far-off  times  of  which  I  have 
been  speaking,  were,  and  probably  now  are,  a 
favored  class  in  some  respects.  They  could  obtain 
admission  to  circuses  and  other  shows,  when  the 
printing  pertaining  thereto  was  done  at  the  office  to 
which  they  were  attached.  And  the  more  serious 
minded  could  generally  manage  to  secure  a  seat  in 
lecture  halls. 

In  1826  the  famous  Capt.  John  Cleves  Symmes, 
who,  by  the  way,  was  a  grandson  of  Rev.  Timothy 
Symmes,  minister  of  the  First  Church  of  Ipswich, 
Mass.,  in  1752,  came  to  Salem  to  deliver  a  couple 
of  lectures  on  his  celebrated  theory  of  the  earth  ; 
which  theory  claimed  that  the  earth  is  hollow,  and 
contains  within,  several  concentric  spheres ;  that  it 
is  open  at  the  poles  and  without  doubt  inhabited 


30  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

within  as  well  as  without ;  that  there  is  an  open  sea 
at  either  pole,  by  which  vessels  would  be  enabled 
to  reach  the  interior ;  that  the  climate  of  the  interior 
is  more  salubrious  than  ours  of  the  exterior,  being 
less  subject  to  violent  atmospheric  disturbances  and 
changes  ;  that  the  polar  openings  are  quite  sufficient 
for  needed  light  and  for  astronomical  observations ; 
all  which  positions  he  maintained  with  much  earn- 
estness, and  to  my  juvenile  apprehension,  with  much 
plausibility  if  not  decided  success.  His  arguments 
were  largely  founded  on  his  own  observations,  and 
long  noted  facts.  Among  other  things,  if  I  recollect 
aright,  he  claimed  that  the  Gulf  Stream  flowed 
from  the  interior  and  that  those  mysterious  vegetable 
productions  sometimes  found  on  the  Arctic  shores 
were  brought  by  it  from  their  native  soil  within. 
He  was  well  educated,  unquestionably  a  firm  be- 
liever in  his  theory,  and  more  than  once  declared 
his  readiness  to  risk  his  life  if  need  be  in  its  verifi- 
cation. He  had  petitioned  the  government  to  afford 
means  to  equip  an  expedition,  and  had  strong  hopes 
that  his  petition  would  be  granted.  If  I  remember 
rightly,  he  stated  that  the  Russian  government  had 
signified  a  willingness  to  supply  the  means  for  a 
suitable  outfit  if  his  own  government  declined,  but 
that  he  did  not  wish  to  avail  himself  of  foreign 
assistance  so  long  as  there  remained  a  probability 
that  his  application  at  home  would  meet  with  suc- 
cess. But  he  died  soon  after,  his  faith  undiminished 
and  the  world  unconvinced.  The  theory  was  very 
much  ridiculed  ;  and  that  probably  had  considerable 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  31 

to  do  with  its  non-reception,  and  possibly  with  his 
early  death,  for  he  died  at  about  the  age  of  fifty. 

Now,  if  in  the  course  of  time  "  Symmes's  Theory  " 
should  be  substantiated,  would  it  not  be  deemed  a 
discovery  of  far  greater  importance  than  the  dis- 
covery we  this  year  of  grace,  1893,  celebrate  with  so 
much  pomp  at  Chicago  —  the  discovery  of  America 
by  Columbus?  Give  imagination  fair  play.  My 
admission  to  Symmes's  lectures  was  obtained  by 
circulating  his  handbills.  It  is  probable  that  I  did 
not  comprehend  much  that  the  lecturer  said ;  but  I 
am  sure  I  was  quite  interested  in  what  I  did  under- 
stand. 

The  circus,  after  all,  was  the  great  attraction  for 
the  boys  of  that  time.  And  is  it  not  so  now,  even 
including  the  gray-bearded  ones?  I  remember  that 
a  small  circus  came  to  Salem  and  remained  a  whole 
week,  exhibiting  only  in  the  evenings,  however. 
The  handbills  were  printed  at  our  office,  and  on  one 
or  two  occasions  I  was  detailed  to  work  them  off  at 
the  press  and  see  that  they  were  delivered.  For 
one  particular  performance  I  was  very  desirous  that 
the  other  office  lads,  and  possibly  an  outside  friend 
or  two,  should  gain  admittance  ;  so  a  little  before  the 
time  for  the  performance  to  commence,  at  short  in- 
tervals, I  gave  the  other  boys  each  a  few  of  the  bills 
to  take  over  to  the  South  Fields  where  the  tent  was 
pitched.  The  intervals  were  well  arranged;  away 
they  went,  and  were  admitted  for  their  services. 
Finally,  with  the  remainder  I  brought  up  the  rear. 
When  my  package  was  handed  to  the  door-keeper 


32  LEGACY    OF   AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

he  exclaimed,  "  My  gracious  !  It  seems  to  me  it 
takes  a  big  procession  of  boys  to  bring  a  few  dozen 
handbills.  I  guess  I  have  let  in  enough,  and  you 
may  just  trot  off."  This  took  me  quite  aback.  I 
saw  that  I  had  been  too  generous  towards  my  com- 
panions, and  with  downcast  face  and  slow  step 
began  to  retreat.  But  the  good-natured  fellow 
relented,  recalled,  and  pushed  me  in.  My  spirits 
rose ;  and  from  that  hour  a  good  opinion  of  circus 
folk  took  root. 

Timothy  Pickering,  the  soldier  and  statesman, 
who  figures  so  largely  in  American  history  of  the 
Revolutionary  period,  the  personal  friend  and  co- 
worker  with  Washington,  in  war  and  in  peace, 
passed  the  evening  of  his  days  in  Salem.  Indeed 
he  was  a  native  of  the  place,  though  his  public 
duties  kept  him  away  for  many  years  of  his  man- 
hood. The  only  time  that  I  remember  to  have  been 
spoken  to  by  him,  was  on  the  occasion  of  going  to 
his  house  with  the  proof  of  an  open  letter,  as  I 
suppose  it  would  now  be  called,  which  he  had  sent 
for  publication  in  the  Gazette.  It  was  during  the 
stirring  canvass  that  resulted  in  the  election  of  John 
Quincy  Adams  to  the  presidency  ;  and  I  know  from 
the  sensation  it  created  that  it  must  have  been  a 
stinging  missive,  though  I  was  not  old  enough  to 
comprehend  its  full  import. 

I  recollect  him  as  a  rather  tall,  white-haired, 
well-dressed  gentleman,  of  dignified  but  kindly 
bearing.  He  was  affable,  and  took  care  to  see 
that  I  was  comfortably  seated,  with  something  to 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  33 

amuse,  before  he  began  to  examine  the  proof.  And 
while  reading,  he  occasionally  paused  and  looked 
up  to  say  something  he  thought  might  interest  me. 
When  he  had  finished,  he  handed  the  proof  to  me 
with  the  remark  that  it  was  very  correct,  he  having 
found  but  one  wrong  word,  and  that  was  sweet  for 
secret,  or  vice  versa  ;  I  do  not  now  remember  which. 
Then  he  dismissed  me,  after  giving  a  short  account 
of  something  that  happened  in  the  Revolution, 
whether  or  not  in  reply  to  an  inquiry  of  my  own,  I 
cannot  now  say,  in  such  simple  language  that  I  per- 
fectly understood  all  he  said. 

Col.  Pickering,  as  is  well  known,  had  several 
sons,  two  or  three  of  whom  became  quite  eminent 
in  the  higher  walks  of  life.  His  son  Henry,  who 
was  born  at  Washington's  headquarters  in  New- 
burgh,  N.Y.,  in  1781,  was  in  Salem  at  the  time  of 
which  I  am  speaking,  a  scholarly  man,  in  middle 
life.  He  was  then  an  officer  in  one  of  the  banks, 
but  probably  more  proud  of  his  poetic  talents  than 
his  financial  skill.  From  some  cause,  I  do  not 
know  what,  he  seemed,  from  the  first,  to  take  a  fancy 
to  me,  an  oft  ink-besmeared  printer  boy,  and  never 
met  me  in  the  street  or  elsewhere  without  stopping  to 
take  my  hand,  say  some  pleasant  word  or  ask  some 
question  about  myself.  In  1830  he  had  a  pretty 
little  volume  of  poems  printed  at  our  School  street 
office  in  Boston.  But  a  small  number  of  copies 
were  issued — only  twenty-five,  the  imprint  states  — 
and  they  for  distribution  among  friends,  none  being 
for  sale.  In  the  distribution  one  fell  to  my  lot,  and 


34  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

is  still  on  the  shelf  beside  me,  as  I  write,  a  valued 
souvenir,  recalling  bright  passages  in  those  far-off 
times. 

After  leaving  Salem  I  did  not  see  Mr.  Pickering  for 
some  years.  But  the  first  time  he  came  into  the  office 
while  his  poems  were  being  printed,  he  caught  sight 
of  me,  and  in  the  most  cordial  way  renewed  the 
acquaintance,  if  such  it  may  properly  be  called. 
One  of  the  first  things  he  asked  was  if  I  had  any 
objection  to  his  still  calling  me  by  my  Christian 
name.  One  day,  while  busy  about  something  near 
the  proprietor's  desk,  I  heard  Mr.  P.  and  a  friend 
of  his  debating  about  choosing  between  two  words 
in  one  of  his  poetic  lines.  Such  discussions  often 
occurring  I  thought  nothing  of  it,  till  Mr.  P.  said, 
"Well,  now,  as  we  can't  agree,  let  us  refer  it  to 
young  N.  out  there ;  I  '11  agree  to  take  the  word  he 
thinks  most  fit."  The  proposition  was  acceded  to,  and 
I  at  once  felt  prepared  to  decide,  knowing  full  well 
that  such  arbitration  is  very  much  like  the  tossing 
up  of  a  cent,  just  as  reliable  and  just  as  satisfac- 
tory. However,  with  becoming  gravity  my  deci- 
sion was  announced  and  acted  on  as  final.  Since 
then,  it  has  many  times  occurred  to  me  that  such 
off-hand  arbitration  saves  much  trouble ;  and  if 
of tener  adopted  in  matters  of  small  importance  would 
doubtless  give  greater  satisfaction  than  decisions 
following  laborious  discussion  which  are  liable  to 
infuse  extraneous  matter  and  rather  confuse  than 
elucidate. 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  35 

COULD  the  Gazette  office,  as  it  then  was,  be  seen 
by  the  present  workers  there,  surely  they  would 
gaze  with  wonder.  The  thought  of  the  slow-work- 
ing old  wooden  Ramage  press,  propelled  by  hand, 
and  requiring  a  pull  to  every  page  of  the  diminutive 
sheet,  the  inking  all  done  by  slow  and  wearisome 
beating  of  the  hand  balls,  even  now  is  almost  enough 
to  bring  on  a  feeling  of  fatigue.  But  diminutive  as 
the  sheet  then  was,  it  was  strong,  respectable  and 
influential  —  characteristics  it  has  ever  maintained. 
It  in  truth  embodies  a  history  of  the  country  from  its 
first  appearance  in  1768.  It  was  published  weekly 
till  1796,  thence  semi-weekly  till  1892,  in  which  year 
it  became  a  daily.  Could  a  good  index  of  its  con- 
tents be  prepared,  what  a  mine  would  be  opened  for 
the  historian.  The  history  of  the  Revolution  and 
the  causes  that  led  to  it  are  there.  And  so  of  the 
various  later  wars.  The  discussions  on  the  forma- 
tion of  the  Constitutional  governments,  National  and 
State,  and  the  countless  other  vital  questions  that 
agitated  the  minds  of  our  fathers,  inspired  their 
patriotism  and  excited  their  fears,  are  garnered  there. 


FIRST    VISIT    TO    BOSTON. 

THE  first  time  I  was  ever  in  Boston  was  on  the 
1 7th  of  June,  1825.  No  one  will  need  to  be  in- 
formed that  it  was  the  fiftieth  anniversary  of  the 
battle  of  Bunker  Hill,  and  the  day  on  which  the 
corner  stone  of  the  monument  commemorating  that 
great  event  was  laid  by  General  Lafayette.  All  the 


36  LEGACY    OF    AN     OCTOGENARIAN. 

country  around  had  been  for  weeks  in  a  patriotic 
ferment,  and  almost  every  one  who  could  by  any 
possibility  find  means  to  attend  seemed  to  consider 
it  a  matter  of  absolute  duty  so  to  do.  I  had  agitat- 
ing hopes  and  fears  as  to  my  own  success  in  finding 
means  to  go  with  the  tide.  But  as  we  were  about 
quitting  work,  on  the  evening  of  the  i6th,  Mr.  An- 
drews came  to  me,  and  handing  a  dollar,  smilingly 
said,  "  Well,  James,  I  suppose  you  think  you  must 
go  as  well  as  the  rest  of  us,  and  here  is  a  dollar 
for  you."  I  thankfully  grasped  the  proffered  bill, 
which  seemed  at  first  a  large  sum.  On  second 
thought,  however,  I  realized  that  it  would  be  neces- 
sary to  economize,  for  the  full  stage  fare  was  a  dol- 
lar each  way.  Hearing  that  Captain  Perkins  was 
to  run  up  with  his  pilot  boat,  I  hastened  to  find 
him  and  ascertain  how  cheap  he  would  take  me. 
He  said  he  would  land  me  at  Gray's  wharf  for  fifty 
cents ;  and  I  did  not  hesitate  to  accept  the  terms. 
Accordingly,  after  a  sleepless  night  and  without 
thinking  of  breakfast,  I  was  on  board  soon  after 
dawn.  Considerable  time  was  lost  by  waiting  for 
another  passenger,  and  detentions  of  one  kind  and 
another,  before  the  sail  was  spread.  But  a  good 
run  was  made,  and  we  were  in  Boston  harbor  by  ten 
o'clock.  Then,  all  of  a  sudden,  the  boat  ran  aground. 
This  was  a  sore  trial  to  juvenile  impatience  ;  but  the 
tide  was  not  to  be  hurried  by  my  longings,  nor  by 
the  profane  rebukes  of  the  others  on  board.  How- 
ever, after  an  hour  we  floated  off  and  soon  reached 
the  wharf.  It  was  a  pleasant,  warm  day,  and  the 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  37 

streets  were  overflowing  with  people.  To  me  every- 
thing seemed  in  confusion,  for  I  was  in  a  strange 
place  and  jostled  about  by  the  rushing  crowd.  Yet  I 
found  my  way  around  very  well  and  in  due  time 
was  on  Bunker  Hill,  where  the  great  procession 
presently  deployed.  There  was  a  greater  assem- 
blage of  freemasons,  soldiers,  and  people  of  all 
degrees,  than  I  had  ever  seen  before. 

At  that  time  population  had  not  much  encroached 
on  the  historic  vicinage.  Grass  fields  spread  along 
the  slopes,  and  stone  walls  and  dilapitated  rail  fences 
still  marked  the  various  lots,  probably  much  as  they 
did  at  the  time  of  the  battle.  I  saw  Lafayette  when 
he  laid  the  stone  and  curiously  examined  the  precious 
object  as  it  was  poised  preparatory  to  being  placed 
on  the  hallowed  spot  where  it  now  rests.  I  was  not 
old  enough  to  take  much  interest  in  Mr.  Webster's 
oration,  which  I  am  sure  was  not  then  considered 
an  effort  of  such  transcendent  merit  as  some  of  the 
present  generation  assume.  I  recollect  hearing 
Mr.  Andrews  say,  a  few  days  afterward,  that  he 
had  been  talking  with  postmaster  Sprague  about 
the  oration,  and  that  he,  Mr.  S.  declared  that  he 
himself  could  have  delivered  as  good  an  one.  "And 
I  have  no  doubt  he  could,"  added  Mr.  A.  Yet  that 
oration  has  passed  into  our  nation's  literature  as  a 
most  choice  specimen  of  American  oratory  —  so 
unreliable  is  contemporary  criticism,  for  Mr.  Sprague 
was  by  no  means  alone  in  his  disparaging  estimate, 
and  was  considered  able  to  wield  the  critic's  trun- 
cheon with  marked  ability. 


38  ,    LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

Though  I  could  not  take  much  interest  in  the 
oration,  there  were  multitudes  of  other  attractions. 
The  ranges  of  stone  wall  at  the  foot  of  the  hill, 
were  lined  with  shanties  of  all  sorts,  where  learned 
pigs  and  other  monstrosities  were  exhibited,  and 
where  cheap  provisions  and  drinks  could  be  pro- 
cured. In  some  of  the  uncomely  erections  the  sound 
of  the  fiddle  attracted  a  vulgar  crowd,  and  there 
was  not  wanting  staggering  evidence  that  beverages 
stronger  than  the  switchel  that  quenched  the  thirst 
of  the  panting  soldiers  on  the  hot  day  of  the  battle, 
freely  flowed. 

Quite  a  number  of  old  men  who  were  in  the  bat- 
tle were  on  the  ground,  and  of  course  well  cared  for. 
I  remember  following  one  of  the  carriages  as  the 
procession  passed  over  Charlestown  bridge,  to  watch 
tlie  strange  facial  contortions  of  an  old  soldier  with 
a  broken  jaw.  These  ancient  worthies  became 
scattered  about  the  hill  and  furnished  much  curious 
information  to  the  eager  groups  gathered  about 
them,  as  to  details  of  the  battle,  pointing  out  the 
exact  spots  where  such  and  such  things  happened 
during  the  progress  of  the  conflict.  Nothing  during 
the  whole  day  interested  me  more  than  these  quaint 
descriptions  and  details,  so  real  did  they  seem  in  the 
then  essentially  unchanged  aspect  of  the  hill.  It 
almost  seemed  as  if  I  had  been  in  the  battle. 

As  the  day  waned  the  question  as  to  how  I  was  to 
get  home  came  up  with  rather  disturbing  force.  Not 
much  of  my  dollar  remained,  as  having  come  from 
home  without  a  morning  meal,  I  had  been  obliged 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 


39 


to  get  something  to  eat,  and  perhaps  a  glass  or  two 
of  small  beer  to  drink.  There  seemed  to  be  no 
other  way  than  to  start  off  on  foot.  Though  much 
fatigued,  having  passed  a  sleepless  night  and  trav- 
elled about  all  the  hot  day,  I  had  sufficient  confidence 
in  my  ability  as  a  pedestrian  to  believe  that  I  could 
walk  from  Charlestown  to  Salem.  Accordingly, 
when  the  principal  features  of  the  grand  show 
seemed  to  be  over,  I  started  off,  undismayed  by  the 
prospect  of  the  long,  hot  tramp  over  the  dusty  turn- 
pike. 

When  near  Powderhorn  Hill,  in  Chelsea,  on  look- 
ing round  who  should  I  see  but  the  eccentric  old 
yeoman,  "  Uncle  Tommy  N."  jogging  along  in  his 
dilapidated,  topless  chaise  body.  He  was  alone, 
and  as  he  drew  near  reined  up,  saying,  "  Come,  my 
boy,  do  n't  you  want  to  get  in  and  ride  ?  "  "It  needed 
not  a  second  invitation  for  me  to  bounce  up  beside 
him.  I  think  he  was  not  in  the  Bunker  Hill  battle, 
and  possibly  not  even  a  soldier  of  the  Revolution ; 
but  he  entertained  me  very  much  as  we  jogged 
along,  by  his  graphic  descriptions  and  reminiscences, 
and  on  my  part  I  had  to  answer  many  questions 
regarding  myself.  On  we  moved,  through  Lynn, 
over  the  Floating  Bridge,  and  up  the  hill,  whence 
the  steeples  of  Salem  came  in  view.  Then  I  began 
to  have  an  apprehensive,  realization  that  I  should 
probably  be  expected  to  pay  something  for  my  long 
and  agreeable  ride,  for  the  old  man  was  reputed  to 
be  rather  more  than  ordinarily  exacting  and  penuri- 
ous. Finally,  when  so  far  along  that  it  would  be 


40  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

no  great  hardship  if  turned  out  and  compelled  to 
walk  the  rest  of  the  way,  I  ventured  to  ask  what  I 
ought  to  pay.  "Well,  my  boy,"  replied  he,  "  we 
are  now  getting  near  the  last  toll-house  and  I  guess 
if  you  pay  the  toll  there,  it  will  be  about  right."  I 
was  delighted  at  his  generosity  for  the  toll  was  but 
a  yankee  ninepence  —  twelve  and  a  half  cents  — 
which  was  just  what  remained  of  my  dollar.  I 
cheerfully  handed  it  forth  without  intimating  that  it 
was  my  last  financial  remnant,  and  on  we  rode 
triumphantly  into  town,  probably  as  well  pleased 
with  the  day's  adventures  as  any  returning  pilgrim 
of  that  notable  day. 

We  arrived  about  sunset,  and  soon  after  alighting 
I  encountered  in  Derby  Square,  old  "  Uncle  Britton,'' 
the  ubiquitous  peddler  of  "  varses,"  who  travelled 
up  and  down  the  county  with  his  metrical  merchan- 
dise. He  claimed,  and  probably  with  justice,  to 
have  been  in  the  battle.  1  asked  him  how  it  hap- 
pened that  he  did  not  appear  in  the  great  procession 
among  the  other  old  soldiers.  Steadying  himself 
as  well  as  he  could,  with  a  comical  leer  he  replied, 
"Because,  my  lad,  because  I  never  saught  it."  He 
had  a  patriotic  song  suitable  for  the  day,  but  for  want 
of  its  price  —  two  cents  —  I  could  not  purchase  the 
inspiring  ode. 

The  famous  monument,  the  corner  stone  of  which 
was  laid  with  so  much  ceremony  on  that  beautiful 
I7th  of  June,  1825,  speedily  rose  to  a  height  of 
some  eighty  feet,  and  there  remained  roofed  in,  an 
eyesore  on  the  landscape,  year  after  year.  Finally 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  4! 

an  energetic  movement  was  made  by  the  patriotic 
sons  and  daughters  of  north  and  south,  with  whom 
some  of  other  nations  joined  hands,  and  the  shaft 
arose  to  its  destined  height. 

It  was  on  the  iyth  of  June,  1843  that  the  com- 
pletion of  the  monument  was  celebrated  by  another 
great  parade,  and  the  oration  on  this  occasion  like- 
wise was  delivered  by  Daniel  Webster,  the  orator 
of  the  former  occasion.  I  was  there  at  this  time 
also.  But  how  different  appeared  the  surroundings. 
Population  had  overspread  the  then  vacant  fields, 
the  stone  walls  and  dilapidated  rail  fences  had  dis- 
appeared and  stately  buildings  arisen. 


UNDER  the  mysterious  caption  of  "  The  Statesman 
in  a  £>iiandary"  the  old  Boston  Daily  Statesman 
on  a  certain  morning  in  1825,  editorially  referred 
to  a  communication  published  in  its  columns,  a  few 
days  before,  in  such  terms  as  created  a  lively  sensa- 
tion, especially  in  Essex  County.  It  was  while  I 
was  still  a  boy  in  the  Salem  Gazette  office.  I  hap- 
pened to  be  alone  one  evening  just  after  dark,  all 
the  others  having  gone  to  supper,  and  was  busy  at 
my  little  table  preparing  wrappers  for  the  papers 
that  were  to  go  out  by  the  night  mail,  my  diminutive, 
one-wick,  japanned,  whale-oil  lamp  shedding  scarce- 
ly a  ray  of  light  beyond  the  sphere  of  my  pen,  when 
the  door  suddenly  opened  and  a  briskly-stepping 
young  man  wrapped  in  a  broadcloth  cloak,  came 
up  to  my  table,  and,  in  some  apparent  agitation, 


42  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

asked  for  the  use  of  my  pen  and  a  scrap  of  paper. 
They  were  handed  him.  He  wrote  a  very  brief 
note,  and  handing  it  to  me  asked  if  it  could  appear 
in  the  morning's  paper.  I  told  him  I  had  no  au- 
thority in  the  matter,  but  had  no  doubt  that  it  would 
be  inserted  ;  at  all  events  that  I  would  hand  it  to  the 
editor  as  soon  as  he  came  in.  He  thanked  me  and 
immediately  disappeared  down  the  dark  stairway. 

That  man  was  Caleb  Gushing,  who  in  after  years 
became  so  renowned  for  his  energy  of  character, 
thorough  knowledge  of  international  law,  and  skill 
as  a  diplomatist.  The  lines  he  handed  me  were  a 
brief  and  unequivocal  denial  of  the  authorship  of 
the  communication  alluded  to,  that  had  just  appeared 
in  the  Boston  Statesman.  That  communication  so 
zealously  advocated  Mr.  Cushing's  claims  for  a  seat 
in  Congress,  and  so  unqualifiedly  extolled  him,  that 
a  good  deal  of  feeling  was  created  among  the  friends 
of  the  rival  candidate.  Presently  the  suspicion 
gained  currency  that  Mr.  Gushing  was  himself  the 
author  of  the  communication  —  a  fact  which  at  that 
time  would  have  been  considered  far  more  undigni- 
fied than  in  these  days  of  more  abundant  effrontery. 
It  was  concerning  this  communication  that  the 
Statesman  was  in  its  "  quandary." 

Sundry  of  Mr.  Cushing's  opponents  pretended  to 
regard  his  positive  denial  as  one  of  those  political 
prevarications  with  which  they  were  probably  them- 
selves familiar,  and  declared  that  if  he  did  not  write 
it  himself  it  had  passed  under  his  supervision.  Then 
came  an  affidavit  duly  sworn  to  before  a  magistrate, 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  43 

squarely  asserting  that  Mr.  C.  was  not  the  writer, 
but  that  the  deponent  was.  There  were  one  or  two 
peculiarities  in  the  wording  of  the  affidavit  which 
were  taken  advantage  of  by  the  wily  carpers  to 
bring  discredit  upon  it ;  and  its  intended  effect  was 
somewhat  impaired. 

Then  the  Statesman  announced  that  they  had 
preserved  the  manuscript  and  anyone  interested 
could  examine  it.  I  remember  hearing  one  gentle- 
man say  that  he  had  inspected  it  and  found  one 
peculiarity  that  convinced  him  that  Mr.  Gushing 
had  read  it,  and  probably  done  so  with  pen  in  hand  ; 
for,  said  he,  "  I  found  that  the  commas  were  invar- 
iably placed  nearer  the  next  word  than  the  word  to 
which  they  appertained,  a  habit  that  I  never  knew 
in  any  one  but  Mr.  Gushing."  That  gentleman 
also  remarked  that  he  knew  Mrs.  Cushing's  hand- 
writing much  resembled  her  husband's  and  that  it 
was  not  impossible  that  she  used  the  pen. 

There  is  little  doubt  that  this  unfortunate  accusa- 
tion brought  against  Mr.  Gushing  actually  kept  him 
from  his  coveted  place  of  honor  for  the  time  being, 
and  consigned  him,  so  to  speak,  to  the  political 
shades  for  a  number  of  years.  But  his  great  ability 
and  unconquerable  perseverance  finally  triumphed, 
and  placed  him  where  the  nation  received  the  bene- 
fit of  his  talents  and  learning.  His  latter  career 
was  brilliant.  In  1843  he  was  appointed  Commis- 
sioner to  China  and,  as  is  well  known,  negotiated  an 
important  treaty  with  that  power.  He  was  United 
States  Attorney  General  under  President  Pierce, 


44  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

and  as  one  of  the  three  lawyers,  who  advocated  the 
American  claims  in  the  Alabama  controversy  be- 
fore the  Geneva  tribunal,  was  admitted  to  have  scored 
a  signal  triumph.  Indeed  he  was  for  many  years 
constantly  in  the  service  of  the  State  or  Nation,  and 
acquitted  himself  with  marked  ability.  He  was  a 
profound  scholar  and  industrious  investigator ;  am- 
bitious, no  doubt,  for  personal  advancement,  but  an 
ardent  lover  of  his  country  and  her  institutions.  I 
have  often  thought,  in  after  years,  when  reading  of 
Mr.  Cushing's  world-wide  reputation,  of  his  achieve- 
ments in  statesmanship  and  diplomacy,  of  that  far- 
off  evening  when  he  appeared,  almost  like  a  spectre, 
at  my  little  table  in  the  dim  light  of  that  single-wick 
lamp  and  asked  for  the  use  of  my  pen,  the  mere 
stub  of  a  goose  quill,  for  metal  pens  did  not  come 
into  use  till  long  after. 


HAVING  occasion,  now  and  then,  to  visit  our 
printing  offices,  I  never  cease  to  wonder  at  the  im- 
provements made  in  the  appliances  for  facilitating 
work  as  well  as  for  increasing  its  accuracy  and 
beauty.  Especially  is  the  improvement  in  presses 
and  presswork  conspicuous.  From  the  time  that 
Franklin,  in  paper  cap  and  with  rolled-up  sleeves, 
labored  at  his  sluggish  machine,  till  the  time  when 
I  began  to  sweat  at  a  similar  instrument —  just  about 
a  hundred  years  —  there  was  little  improvement  in 
the  press.  It  is  true  that  now  and  then  there  was 
talk  about  inventions  of  one  kind  and  another  in 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  45 

Europe  ;  but  hereabout  the  same  old  creeping  way 
was  pursued.  The  inking  was  done  by  wool-stuffed 
balls,  the  beater,  when  the  form  was  of  any  con- 
siderable size,  having  one  in  each  hand.  It  was 
slow,  hard  and  tedious  work. 

The  invention  of  the  inking  roller  was  the  begin- 
ning of  the  era  of  the  improvements  that  have  not 
yet  ceased  to  astonish  us  —  improvements  by  which 
40,000  sheets,  more  or  less,  may  now  be  thrown  off 
in  less  time  than  was  then  required  for  500. 

A  year  or  two  after  my  apprenticeship  commenced, 
a  strolling  member  of  the  craft  appeared  in  the 
Gazette  office,  claiming  that  he  had  an  invention, 
in  the  shape  of  a  roller,  that  had  great  advantages 
over  the  inking  balls,  in  the  saving  of  labor,  and 
in  various  other  ways.  He  stated  the  terms  and 
conditions  on  which  he  would  furnish  the  apparatus 
and  see  to  its  successful  operation.  His  terms  being 
agreed  to,  he  had  a  fire  built  in  an  upper  room  and 
set  about  cooking  his  molasses  and  glue.  In  due 
time  the  little  roller  came  out  of  the  mold,  smooth 
and  bright.  It  was  long  enough  to  ink  one  page  of 
the  little  paper  at  a  time.  But  for  some  time  the 
new  broom  did  not  sweep  very  clean.  "Monks" 
and  "  friars"  diversified  the  sheets,  to  the  disgust 
of  the  old  workmen,  and  for  a  while  it  seemed  as 
if  the  old  balls  would  be  reinstated.  However,  the 
use  was  persisted  in,  and  the  great  revolution  in 
press-work  commenced. 

As  soon  as  the  reign  of  the  roller  was  firmly  es- 
tablished it  became  apparent  that  an  unlimited  field 


46  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

was  open  for  the  inventor.  We  see  what  marvel- 
lous things  have  already  been  accomplished  ;  and 
what  the  future  will  develop,  when  electricity  comes 
to  play  its  part,  is  yet  an  unsolved  problem.  Had 
it  occurred  to  Franklin  that  his  discoveries  in  elec- 
tricity might  be  applied  to  his  old  printing  machinery, 
and  had  he  set  about  working  on  the  idea,  what 
mighty  things  the  world  might  have  seen  years  ago. 

It  is  true,  however,  that  for  clearness  and  accu- 
racy, not  for  elegance,  the  printing  of  the  early 
days  of  the  art  can  well  keep  countenance  by  the 
side  of  that  of  the  present  day.  I  have  at  hand  a 
book  of  more  than  800  pages,  printed  in  1570  — 
but  little  over  a  century  after  the  invention  of  mova- 
ble types  —  that  abundantly  proves  this. 

Paper  is  a  great  desideratum  in  the  art.  In  our 
times  cheapness  seems  to  be  one  of  the  chief  things 
aimed  at;  and  it  is  feared  that  that  material  is  fast 
becoming  cheap  in  more  than  one  sense.  There  is 
probably  truth  in  the  assertion  that  paper,  as  now 
made,  may  be  injuriously  affected  by  certain  chemi- 
cal adjuncts  used,  and  speedily  decay.  Refer- 
ring again  to  the  1570  volume,  it  may  be  remarked 
that  the  paper  seems  as  firm  as  when  first  printed 
on  ;  and  the  binding,  too,  appears  as  if  it  might 
maintain  its  strength  for  another  three  hundred 
years ;  in  short,  the  book  is  as  readable  now  as  it 
was  the  first  year  of  its  issuance  from  the  press. 
Of  course  it  has  never  been  handled  in  the  destruc- 
tive way  that  the  public  library  novel  is  handled  at 
this  day ;  and  perhaps,  being  a  religious  work,  it 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  47 

has  not  been  much  read  during  the  three  centuries. 
In  a  great  many  of  the  books  of  our  day,  dura- 
bility seems  to  be  sacrificed  for  elegance  ;  looking 
as  if  their  authors,  having  no  expectation  of  long 
life,  wished  to  pass  away  in  comely  shape.  Most 
of  our  news  sheets  of  course  do  not  expect  many 
years  or  much  handling,  or  they  would  not  use  such 
flimsy  paper. 

After  all,  when  we  come  to  reflect,  it  will  appear 
that  the  old  time  facilities  for  printing  were  sufficient 
for  the  day.  There  were  comparatively  few  read- 
ers, as  the  thirst  for  reading  had  not  become  so 
feverish,  and  it  may  be  added,  not  so  indiscriminat- 
ing  as  it  now  is.  The  printing  of  this  day,  book 
and  newspaper,  is  done  for  this  generation,  not  for 
generations  yet  to  come ;  and  if  little  of  it  reaches 
the  latter  the  loss  to  them  may  not  be  very  great. 
Most  of  us  read  too  much;  so  much,  indeed,  that 
reflection  on  what  is  read,  or  meditative  seasons,  have 
small  share  in  our  mental  discipline. 

The  establishment  of  printing  in  this  part  of  the 
country  seems  to  have  been  much  desired  from  the 
earliest  times,  and  its  growth  fostered  with  becoming 
earnestness.  But  in  some  other  sections  there  ap- 
pears to  have  existed,  for  a  long  time,  a  dread  of 
the  printing  press.  Sir  William  Berkeley,  Governor 
of  Virginia,  in  1671  thanks  God  that  there  is  no 
printing  press  in  Virginia  at  that  time,  and  hopes 
there  will  not  be  one  for  a  hundred  years. 


48  -  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

IN    BOSTON. 

IT  WAS  in  the  autumn  of  1827  that  I  bade  adieu 
to  Salem,  and  in  a  day  or  two  was  in  Boston,  em- 
ployed in  the  Christian  Examiner  office,  then  a 
small  and  poorly  equipped  establishment  in  the 
fourth  story  of  a  building  near  the  head  of  Har- 
vard Place,  opposite  the  Old  South  Church.  Good 
work,  however,  was  done  there.  It  was  here  that 
the  first  volume  of  N.  P.  Willis'  poems  was  printed. 
I  well  remember  the  author's  fresh,  rather  boyish 
countenance,  as  he  used  to  appear  in  his  dandified 
dress,  and  make  his  suggestions  to  the  foreman  in 
a  hesitating,  almost  bashful,  way. 

But  the  Examiner  office  was  soon  removed  to 
Bromfield  street  and  enlarged.  And  there  one  or 
two  volumes  of  the  "Legendary,"  edited  by  Mr. 
Willis,  were  printed,  and  the  "  Token,"  that  elegant 
gift  book.  Many  well-known  authors  and  publish- 
ers were  seen  there. 

I  think  the  first  lectures  on  phrenology  ever  heard 
in  Boston  were  delivered  in  old  Julian  Hall,  in  Milk 
street,  at  the  corner  of  Congress,  in  1828,  by  Dr. 
Charles  Caldwell,  then  professor  oimatcria  mcdica, 
in  Transylvania  University,  Kentucky.  The  doc- 
tor was  in  Boston,  attending  to  the  publication  of 
his  eulogy  on  President  Holley  of  that  university, 
who  had  formerly  been  minister  of  Hollis-street 
church,  Boston,  and  had  recently  died.  A  memoir 
was  to  appear  with  the  eulogy,  and  as  Mrs.  Holley 
was  then  in  Boston  it  was  expedient  for  the  doctor 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 


49 


to  go  there  to  have  the  work  printed.  And  it  was 
in  our  office,  after  its  removal  to  Bromfield  lane,  as 
it  was  then  called,  that  the  work  was  done. 

Dr.  Caldw-ell  was  a  rare  specimen  of  the  Ken- 
tucky gentleman  of  that  day ;  of  fine  physical  de- 
velopment, with  a  strong,  clear  voice,  never  at  a 
loss  for  a  word  to  express  an  idea,  and  utterly  fear- 
less of  where  or  how  hard  the  truth  hit  the  point  at 
which  it  was  aimed.  His  language  in  the  lecture 
room  was  scholarly,  smooth  and  unexceptionable. 
But  occasionally,  in  every  day  intercourse,  when 
met  by  some  unexpected  or  especially  disturbing 
occurrence  or  remark,  there  might  be  an  explosion 
so  spirited  as  to  startle  a  timid  listener. 

At  the  time  Dr.  Caldwell  visited  Boston  he  was  a 
little  beyond  middle  life,  but  full  of  vigor,  erect, 
and  with  his  commanding  presence,  white  flowing 
hair,  and  air  of  proud  manhood,  was  one  who  could 
hardly  be  passed  by  unnoticed.  His  style  was  dog- 
matic but  quite  forcible  and  impressive. 

The  doctor  placed  the  price  of  a  ticket  to  any 
employe  in  the  office,  who  desired  to  attend  his 
course,  at  half-price,  the  full  price  being,  I  think, 
five  dollars  ;  and  it  was  under  this  arrangement  that 
I  gained  admission. 

Among  the  audience  I  recollect  a  young  man  who 
always  seemed  busy  in  taking  notes,  and  was  told 
that  his  name  wras  Fowler.  I  have  since  wondered 
if  he  was  not  the  Mr.  Fowler  who  not  a  great  while 
after  established  in  New  York  the  well-known  depot 
for  phrenological  supplies  of  all  kinds  which  has 


5O  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

been  so  successful  for  many  years,  and  is,  I  pre- 
sume, even  now,  1893,  flourishing  —  the  foremost 
establishment  of  the  kind  in  the  country. 

Dr.  Caldvvell  was  frequently  in  the  office,  now 
and  then  unceremoniously  disturbing  the  silence  of 
the  composing  room  by  some  caustic  remark,  amus- 
ing anecdote,  or  energetic  denunciation  of  a  thing 
he  did  not  approve,  or  that  was  not  in  accordance 
with  what  may  be  called  his  whims,  for  learned 
men  sometimes  have  whims.  The  ardent  tempera- 
ment of  the  doctor,  coupled  with  the  freedom  of 
Western  speech,  sometimes  led  him  to  use  expres- 
sions not  common  with  staid  Bostonians.  Witness 
the  following  :  He  came  into  the  office  one  day  when 
a  sheet  of  his  book  was  being  worked  off,  and  step- 
ping up  to  the  press  —  they  were  all  hand  presses 
in  those  days  —  he  happened  to  glance  on  one  of 
the  pages,  when  a  formidable  explosion  took  place. 
He  peremptorily  ordered  the  pressman  to  stop. 
"  There,"  said  he,  "  is  a  word  that  has  been  changed 
since  I  saw  the  proof.  Now  I  want  to  know  who 
did  it."  Mr.  J.,  an  accomplished  proof-reader  and 
modest  clergy  man  who  often  looked  over  the  revise 
sheets,  happened  to  be  in,  and  hearing  the  doctor, 
came  over  to  the  press.  The  doctor  pointed  to  the 
word,  and  indulged  in  one  or  two  strong  comments. 
Mr.  J.,  with  some  hesitancy,  said,  "  Well,  doctor 
the  word  that  was  there  is  not  to  be  found  in  any 
dictionary,  and  thinking  that  the  passage  would 
lose  some  of  its  force  by  not  being  understood,  I 
took  the  liberty  to  substitute  an  English  word." 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  51 

"The  h — 1  you  did!"  shouted  the  doctor,  and  up 
flew  his  cane  —  not  probably  with  any  design  of 
bringing  it  down  with  a  crash  on  that  defenceless 
head,  but  rather  to  give  additional  emphasis  to  his 
already  over- vigorous  protest;  "now  have  it  put 
back,  and  don't  do  such  a  thing  again  with  any 
work  of  mine.  It  is  a  new  word,  one  of  my  own, 
and  I  have  as  much  right  to  make  a  word  as  Doctor 
Johnson  or  anyone  else."  And  the  word  was  re- 
stored. A  similar  scene  occurred  on  another  occa- 
sion when  the  doctor  happened  to  discover  that  com- 
mas had  been  substituted  for  dashes,  the  dash  being 
with  him  a  very  pet. 

He  was  a  profound  scholar,  and  very  interesting 
lecturer,  fluent  and  apt  in  the  use  of  words,  some- 
times really  eloquent,  though  decidedly  peremptory 
in  style,  ever  ready  with  anecdote,  poetic  quota- 
tion, or  other  illustration  gathered  from  his  exten- 
sive field  of  observation  and  study.  His  efforts  did 
much  to  prepare  the  way  for  the  enthusiastic  recep- 
tion of  Spurzheim,  the  eminent  Prussian  physician 
and  phrenologist,  who  arrived  here  in  1832,  and 
whose  remains  were  within  three  months  resting 
with  the  silent  company  in  Mount  Auburn. 

Dr.  Caldwell  was  fond  of  relating  to  the  work- 
men, as  well  as  other  listeners,  his  experiences  and 
reminiscences.  And  he  had  an  abundance  of  an- 
ecdotes of  eminent  men  with  whom  he  had  associ- 
ated while  in  Europe  and  corresponded  with  at  other 
times.  He  had  a  fund  of  lively  incidents  to  relate 
concerning  Doctor  Abernethy  the  famous  London 


52  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

physician,  with  whom,  I  think,  he  claimed  relation- 
ship as  a  student  in  some  department  of  his  profes- 
sion, and  seemed  to  delight  in  dwelling  on  the 
eccentricities  of  that  eminent  but  boorish  champion 
of  the  healing  art. 

I  well  remember  a  characteristic  anecdote  that  he 
related  more  than  once.  It  was  to  the  effect  that 
the  doctor  was  one  day  called  on  at  his  London 
office  by  a  demure  New  England  clergyman  who 
was  minister  of  a  small  countrv  parish. 

"  I  have  come,"  said  the  minister,  "  on  the  rec- 
ommendation of  friends  to  get  your  advice  regard- 
ing my  ailments." 

"Well,  well,  now  tell  me  at  once  what  your  ail- 
ments are." 

"  I  have  been  ailing  these  many  months,  my 
health  so  declining  that  I  was  finally  advised  by 
some  of  my  dear  little  flock  to  take  a  sea  voyage,  in 
the  hope  that  "  — 

"  No  matter  about  all  that.  What  is  the  matter 
with  you  ?  " 

"As  I  was  saying,  my  health  began  to  decline 
some  time  ago.  And  I  was  advised,  if  I  hoped  to 
recover,  to  leave  for  a  time,  in  other  care,  my  dear 
little  flock,  and  seek  " — 

"D — n  your  little  flock!  Why  don't  you  tell 
me  what  the  matter  is  with  you?" 

How  the  advisory  interview  ended,  I  do  not  know  ; 
but  the  impatience  and  irritability  of  Dr.  Abernethy, 
which  was  the  chief  point,  sufficiently  appears. 

Another  anecdote  of  that  great  London  physician, 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  53 

told  by  Dr.  C.,  was  much  relished,  especially  from 
the  dramatic  manner  in  which  it  was  told. 

A  messenger  appeared  in  great  haste  one  morn- 
ing, announcing  that  King  George  was  taken  sud- 
denly ill,  and  demanded  the  doctor's  immediate 
attendance. 

"Well,  well,"  says  the  doctor,  "I'll  take  the 
King's  case  in  its  order." 

After  a  little  while  the  messenger  returned  with 
a  peremptory  summons  to  attend  without  delay. 
The  doctor's  eye  flashed,  as  he  straightened  up  and 
vociferated, 

"  Go  straight  back  and  tell  King  George  that  I 
won't  come  !  " 

Probably  one  thing  as  much  as  any  other  that 
brought  discredit  on  phrenology  was  that  almost 
anyone  could  get  up  a  lecture  or  two  on  the  subject. 
He  could  easily  get  his  "  charts"  and  marked  plas- 
ter heads.  And  it  was  not  long  before  large  num- 
bers of  tramp  lecturers  were  in  the  field  —  ignorant 
and  assuming.  So  it  is  not  wonderful  that  the  true 
doctrines  became  mystifying  and  hard  to  be  under- 
stood by  the  cursory  student. 

I  remember  that  Dr.  Caldwell,  in  one  of  his 
earnest  intermittent  rhapsodies,  while  lecturing, 
ejaculated,  with  undoubted  sincerity  and  honest 
fervor,  "  Phrenology  is  true,  and  will  yet  occupy  a 
high  place  in  the  catalogue  of  sciences,  accepted  as 
one  of  the  most  useful  of  all  to  mankind." 

But  will  phrenological  doctrines  ever  prevail? 
Or  will  they  ever  again  attain  the  place  they  held 


54  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

among  the  intelligent  and  learned,  say  sixty  years 
ago?  The  poet  tells  us  that  "  The  proper  study  of 
mankind  is  man."  And  a  higher  authority  declares 
that  the  truth  is  mighty  and  will  prevail.  But 
where,  amid  the  entanglements  of  scientific  research, 
is  the  truth,  in  many  cases,  to  be  found? 

Soon  after  the  Examiner  office,  which  had  now 
grown  to  be  one  of  the  leading  book  offices  in  Bos- 
ton, was  removed  from  Bromfield  street  to  School 
street  it  was  sold  to  Isaac  R.  Butts  who  added  to  it 
his  own  considerable  establishment,  and  gave  it  the 
name  of  "  Classic  Office."  A  great  many  classical 
works  now  began  to  be  printed  there,  a  circumstance 
that  called  for  the  frequent  visits  of  the  Harvard 
professors  and  other  savants.  Mr.  Butts  remained 
proprietor  for  many  years,  not,  however,  accumu- 
lating largely  in  a  pecuniary  way,  and  finally  retired 
to  a  home  in  Chelsea,  where  he  died  a  few  years 
ago  at  an  age  of  more  than  eighty  years.  He  was 
of  fine  personal  appearance,  neat  in  dress,  and  on 
the  whole  courteous  and  forbearing,  though  he  had 
one  trait  that  was  not  the  most  agreeable  ;  and  that 
was  the  habit  of  finding  fault  with  those  in  his  em- 
ploy without,  as  well  as  with,  reason.  While  fore- 
man of  the  principal  composing  room  I  once  ven- 
tured seriously  to  expostulate  with  him.  He  very 
good  naturedly  replied  that  he  knew  his  real  feelings 
were  often  mistaken,  that  he  did  not  always  feel  as 
he  appeared  to,  but  acted  on  the  principle  that  con- 
tinued fault-finding  induced  even  the  most  diligent 
and  faithful  to  be  the  more  careful  and  painstaking. 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  55 

I  could  only  say  that  such  a  doctrine  did  not  com- 
mend itself  to  my  mind ;  and  that  expressions  of 
approval,  when  deserved,  I  thought  among  the 
strongest  incentives  to  increased  activity  in  duty. 

Perhaps  the  most  famous  work  ever  issued  from 
the  School  street  press,  was  "  Bo wditch's  Commen- 
tary on  the  Mechanique  Celeste  of  La  Place."  It 
was  in  four  quarto  volumes,  and  but  five  hundred 
copies  were  printed.  It  fell  to  my  lot  to  read  the 
first  proofs  of  two  of  them.  My  "copy  reader" 
was  a  lad  recently  from  a  Boston  high  school,  a 
bright  little  fellow  who  could  read  on,  scarcely 
ever  hesitating  at  a  foreign  word,  mathematical 
sign,  or  abstruse  formula.  Dr.  Bowditch's  manu- 
script, be  it  said  to  his  honor,  was  almost  as  fair 
as  print.  Of  course,  neither  the  lad  nor  I  could 
undertake  to  interpret  what  we  read.  The  five 
hundred  copies  were  deemed  sufficient  to  supply 
the  whole  scientific  world.  Few  of  the  American 
savants  of  that  day  could  read  the  work  understand- 
ingly  ;  and  probably  the  number  at  this  day  is  com- 
paratively not  larger.  It  is  said  that  a  considerable 
portion  of  the  edition  was  sent  to  Europe.  Francis 
J.  Grund,  the  German  mathematician,  was  having 
a  work  printed  in  our  office  at  the  same  time,  and  I 
remember  hearing  him  say,  "There  are  not  over 
fifty  people  in  the  United  States  who  can  read 
Doctor  Bowditch's  work,  while  there  are  fifty  thou- 
sand who  can  read  mine."  And  then  he  facetiously 
added,  "I  had  rather  be  the  fifty  than  the  fifty 
thousand." 


56  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

I  have  often  thought  of  the  differences  between 
Dr.  Bowditch  and  Mr.  Grund,  both  so  well  known 
in  the  scientific  world  ;  one  so  absorbed  and  reticient ; 
the  other  so  social  and  communicative.  Dr.  Bow- 
ditch,  when  he  came  into  the  office,  as  he  almost 
every  day  did,  aimed  directly  for  the  stand  of  Mr. 
Berry,  who  did  the  composition,  and  after  conferring 
with  him  would  pass  out  without  taking  notice  of 
anyone  excepting,  perhaps,  exchanging  a  word 
with  the  proof-reader,  or  giving  a  nod  to  the  proprie- 
tor if  he  happened  to  be  in.  Mr.  Grund,  on  the 
other  hand,  seemed  delighted  to  chat  with  the  work- 
men, and  exhibit  what  little  mechanical  skill  he 
possessed.  I  happened  to  be  alone  in  the  office 
early  one  morning,  and  was  busy  looking  over  some 
proofs  preparatory  to  the  coming  in  of  the  work- 
men, when  Mr.  Grund  came  in,  and  after  the  com- 
pliments of  the  morning,  passed  on  to  the  further  end 
of  the  office,  where  the  compositor  on  his  work  had 
his  stand.  After  a  few  moments  of  silence  I  was 
startled  by  hearing  a  terrible  crash  of  types  on  the 
floor,  followed  by  the  exclamation,  "I  '11  pay  for  it ! 
I  '11  pay  for  it ! "  Hastening  to  the  scene  of  the 
disaster  I  found  he  had  attempted  to  lift  a  page  as 
he  had  seen  the  workman  do,  from  the  galley  to 
the  imposing  stone,  not  probably  thinking  of  the 
utility  of  a  page-cord.  He  seemed  utterly  astonished 
that  a  page  should  fall  to  pieces  in  his  hand  when 
in  the  hand  of  the  workman  it  was  as  safe  as  if 
glued  together.  When  the  workman  came  in  and 
saw  the  havoc  that  had  been  made  with  his  previous 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  57 

night's  work,  he  indulged  in  language  more  vigor- 
ous than  becoming,  but  when  the  matter  was  ex- 
plained he  seemed  to  think  it  a  good  lesson  for 
meddlers. 

Mr.  Berry,  the  compositor  on  Dr.  Bowditch's 
work,  was  a  skillful  and  industrious  workman,  and 
much  esteemed  by  his  fellow-workmen  for  his 
promptness,  good  nature,  and  willingness  to  do  any- 
one a  favor.  He  was  somewhat  dignified  in  man- 
ner, not  a  bit  of  a  fop,  nor  inclined  to  any  underhand 
measure  for  personal  advantage.  He  was  an  ex- 
pert musician  and  played  the  violin  in  one  of  the 
churches,  organs  not  having  come  into  general  use 
at  that  time.  But  he  always  seemed  more  proud  of 
his  work  on  the  Mechanique  Celeste  than  any 
other  thing,  especially  as  his  name  appeared  in  the 
front  part  as  compositor.  It  was  something  to  have 
his  name  so  handed  down  as  a  co-worker  with  the 
great  Doctor  Bowditch. 

It  must  have  been  in  or  about  1830  that  Mr. 
Berry  left  Boston  for  Portland,  Maine,  where  he  be- 
came a  prominent  citizen,  and  resided  there,  with  one 
or  two  short  intervals  of  absence,  till  his  death.  A 
few  years  ago,  on  the  occasion,  I  think,  of  his  gold- 
en wedding  day,  there  was  a  notable  assembling  of 
Mr.  Berry's  children,  grandchildren  and  great- 
grandchildren. Soon  after  that  I  received  a  friendly 
letter  from  him,  the  first  in  many  years,  and  that 
was  the  last  word  I  had  directly  from  him.  He  died 
in  1891,  at  the  age  of  eighty-five  years. 

There  were  other  inmates  of  the  old  "  Classic 


58  .    LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

Office,"  the  memory  of  whom  is  most  agreeably 
cherished ;  among  them  Counsellor  Gill,  of  whom 
something  may  be  said  hereafter,  and  Oliver  Ditson, 
to  whom  the  musical  world  has  been  so  greatly  in- 
debted these  many  years. 

A  word  more  about  Doctor  Bowditch  :  I  have 
alluded  to  his  usually  placid  manner,  his  reticence 
and  self-absorption.  But  it  was  manifest  that  he 
naturally  possessed  intense  feeling,  and  under  its 
influence,  on  sudden  provocation,  was  liable  to  be 
betrayed  into  unreasonable  demands.  There  were, 
however,  but  few  exceptions  to  his  admirable  self- 
control  ;  and  when  an  instance  of  its  loss  occurred 
he  was  ever  ready  in  a  cooler  moment  to  make  am- 
ple amends  or  apologies,  whether  the  victim  of  his 
sudden  wrath  were  college  president  or  common 
laborer.  I  was  witness  to  one  instance. 

When  the  Mechanique  Celeste  was  being  printed 
the  sheets,  after  being  cold  pressed,  were  done  up, 
each  signature  in  two  bundles  of  two  hundred  and 
fifty  copies  each ;  one  of  which  bundles  was  to  be 
left  at  his  house  and  the  other  at  his  office.  When 
a  certain  number  of  bundles  had  accumulated,  a 
hand-carter  was  called  to  make  the  delivery,  with 
instruction  not  to  leave  two  alike  at  either  place,  as 
that  would  make  imperfect  sets  in  both  places.  The 
purpose  was  to  be  sure  of  one  perfect  set  if  by  any 
accident  the  other  should  be  destroyed.  Things 
went  on  smoothly  till  by  some  mishap,  either  of  the 
young  man  who  had  charge  of  the  cold  press  room 
or  of  the  hand-carter,  the  two  bundles  of  one  sig- 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  59 

nature  were  delivered  at  the  same  place,  and  that 
of  course  made  an  imperfect  set  at  the  other  place. 
The  Doctor  was  not  long  in  discovering  that  some- 
thing was  wrong,  and  without  taking  a  moment  to 
ascertain  what  the  trouble  was  in  great  excitement 
hurried  to  the  office  and  demanded  that  the  man 
who  keptthe  bundles  in  charge  should  be  summoned. 
I  had  him  summoned,  and  when  he  appeared  he 
was  met  by  such  a  storm  of  scolding  as  quite  un- 
nerved him,  especially  as  he  did  not  know  what 
had  happened.  He  did  not  attempt  to  say  anything  ; 
did  not  know  what  to  say.  And  when  the  peremp- 
tory demand  for  his  instantaneous  discharge  came 
he  began  to  tremble.  '  I  hesitated  about  complying 
with  the  demand  for  his  discharge,  as  he  was  a 
valuable  man  in  his  place,  was  honest,  quiet  and 
industrious.  And  furthermore  I  had  not  seen  wherein 
he  was  guilty.  And  luckily,  while  hesitating,  the 
proprietor  came  in  and  my  authority  ceased.  The 
doctor's  demand  was  repeated  in  decided  terms. 
And  then  the  young  man  was  told  that  he  must  go. 
But  the  proprietor  made  a  remark  to  me  in  an  under 
tone,  implying  that  the  matter  would,  he  felt  sure, 
be  adjusted  satisfactorily ;  that  the  doctor  would 
presently  see  how  the  error  had  happened,  and  be 
the  first  to  ask  for  the  recall  of  the  supposed  offen- 
der. The  young  man  put  on  his  coat  and  sorrow- 
fully departed ;  and  then  the  irate  doctor  took  his 
leave.  In  an  hour  or  two  the  clouds  broke.  A 
note  came  from  the  doctor  expressing  much  regret 
at  his  hasty  action,  stating  that  he  had  found  it  to 


00  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

have  been  a  mere  mistake  in  delivery  that  could 
be  easily  rectified,  and  pleading  for  the  recall  of 
the  young  man.  It  would  have  been  just  like  him 
to  have  handed  the  young  man  a  pecuniary  consoler, 
but  I  do  not  know  whether  he  did  or  not. 

The  above  incident,  of  not  much  importance  in 
itself,  shows  that  human  nature  will  sometimes  as- 
sert itself  in  the  great  as  in  the  small.  Doctor 
Bowditch  was  a  great  man,  and  his  greatness  was 
as  conspicuous  in  his  readiness  to  acknowledge  an 
error  and  make  restitution,  as  in  his  noble  works 
which  adorned  the  age.  No  word  of  eulogy  on  the 
dignity  and  magnanimit}^  of  his  character  is  called 
for  here,  as  pens  and  tongues  of  long  ago  have 
been  sufficiently  exercised  in  that  behalf. 


A  WORD  about  anonymous  writing  :  One  often 
sees  in  the  modern  newspaper  a  conspicuous  notice 
that  all  anonymous  communications  will  be  at  once 
consigned  to  the  waste  basket.  But  is  that  disposi- 
tion always  judicious?  Do  not  honest  and  wise 
people  sometimes  write  to  a  paper  matter  of  real 
public  interest,  but  in  connection  with  which,  for 
some  special  reason,  they  do  not  wish  their  names 
known,  even  to  the  editor?  And  are  not  these 
sometimes  scared  off  by  the  notice  in  question? 

And  then  again,  are  there  not  instances  where 
an  editor  will  allow  a  correspondent,  who  gives  his 
name,  to  blow  a  rude  blast  against  a  neighbor? 
And  is  not  that  lending  his  editorial  trumpet  to  a 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  6l 

base  use,  even  though  he  disclaims  any  responsibil- 
ity for  what  correspondents  say  ?  But  then  the  au- 
tocrats of  the  press,  having  the  staff  in  their  own 
hands,  can  and  will  pursue  their  own  way.  Yet  it 
may  not  be  irrelevant  to  ask  if  editors  are  not  morally 
responsible  for  what  is  allowed  to  appear  in  their 
columns,  by  whomsoever  written? 

As  to  anonymous  letters  :  We  all  know  how  com- 
mon it  is  to  say  that ,410  anonymous  letter  is  worthy 
of  notice,  and  that  it  is  simply  ridiculous  for  one  to 
be  elated  or  depressed  by  what  an  unknown  writer 
may  say.  But  is  it  not  sometimes  the  case  that  such 
a  communication  may  prove  of  the  utmost  value? 
I  have  often  thought,  in  connection  with  this  subject, 
of  an  incident  that  came  to  my  knowledge  while  in 
the  School  street  office. 

In  1829,  I  think  it  was,  that  a  young  man  named 
Harris  was  a  compositor  there  in  the  department 
then  under  my  charge.  He  was  an  intelligent, 
genial  young  fellow,  and  for  a  considerable  time  we 
were  room  mates.  He  became  attached,  and  I  pre- 
sume regularly  engaged,  to  a  girl  of  some  eighteen 
years,  pleasing  in  manners  and  person,  bright,  and 
to  a  susceptible  young  mind  quite  fascinating.  She 
sometimes,  with  his  sister,  spent  part  of  an  evening 
in  our  room,  where  social  chat  and  music  made  the 
time  pass  very  pleasantly.  She  was  a  good  singer, 
and  it  is  especially  remembered  with  what  touching 
effect  she  sang  "Bonny  Doon,"  he  accompanying 
her  on  the  flute.  As  time  passed,  the  course  of 
love  seemed  to  be  running  very  smoothly. 


62  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

It  then  came  about  that  she  ostensibly  arranged 
to  make  a  visit  to  her  mother,  at  her  old  home  in 
Maine.  She  went.  And  in  due  time  H.  received 
letters  from  her  speaking  in  glowing  terms  of  how 
much  she  was  enjoying  her  visit  among  old  friends 
and  old  scenes. 

So  matters  stood  till  one  morning.  As  the  work 
of  the  day  was  about  commencing  at  the  office,  H. 
came  in  perceptibly  agitated,  saying  that  he  sud- 
denly found  himself  compelled  to  ask  for  leave  of 
absence  for  a  day  or  two.  He  was  reminded  of  the 
importance  of  hastening  the  work  he  was  on,  and 
the  probability  that  in  a  short  time  he  would  be  able 
to  go  without  occasioning  any  inconvenience.  He 
replied  that  he  would  not  then  tell  what  his  strait 
was,  but  would  on  his  return ;  that  indeed  he  must 
go  even  at  the  hazard  of  losing  his  situation. 

"Very  well,"  I  said,  "if  the  call  is  so  very 
urgent,  you  had  better  go,  and  we  will  manage  to 
get  along  without  you  for  a  day  or  two." 

He  went.  And  the  explanation  afterward  given 
was  this  :  He  had  to  his  bewilderment,  just  received 
an  anonymous  letter,  assuring  him  that  the  writer, 
though  an  utter  stranger,  having  by  some  means 
learned  his  address  and  of  his  attentions  to  a  cer- 
tain young  woman,  felt  it  his  duty  to  caution  him 
of  the  danger  he  was  in ;  that  the  girl  in  question 
was  of  such  a  character  as  no  respectable  young 
man  would  knowingly  associate  with ;  that  her 
mother  did  not  know  where  she  was ;  that  he,  the 
writer,  knew  she  was  in  a  place  very  different  from 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  63 

a  mother's  home ;  and  that  though  the  worthless- 
ness  of  anonymous  letters  in  a  general  way  was 
conceded,  H.  could  in  this  instance  satisfy  himself 
by  going  to  such  a  number  in  such  a  street  in  Port- 
land. 

This,  then,  was  the  urgent  business  that  called 
H.  so  suddenly  away  from  the  office.  He  hastened 
to  Portland  and  at  once  became  satisfied  that  the 
worst  was  true.  He  never  knew  who  the  anony- 
mous writer  was,  and  so  could  not  in  person  express 
his  heartfelt  thanks  for  the  deliverance. 

I  saw  little  of  H.  in  after  years.  But  in  speak- 
ing with  Mr.  B.  P.  Shillaber,  (Mrs.  Partington),  a 
short  time  before  his  death,  and  inquiring  about 
some  of  the  old  craftsmen,  I  asked  if  he  ever  knew 
H.  He  said  he  knew  him  very  well,  and  that  he 
had  been  dead  a  number  of  years ;  that  he  was 
proof  reader  for  a  long  time  in  a  large  book  estab- 
lishment ;  and  that  he  was  highly  esteemed  for  in- 
tegrity of  character,  intelligence,  and  skill  in  his 
vocation. 

Was  not  here  an  instance  of  the  value  of  an 
anonymous  letter?  What  might  have  been  the 
blighting  consequences  if  H.  had  thrust  the  letter 
into  the  fire  as  soon  as  it  was  read,  concluding  that 
it  was  a  trap  set  by  some  audacious  fellow  who  was 
endeavoring  to  supplant  him,  or  the  resentful  ebul- 
lition of  some  rejected  aspirant?  The  incident 
likewise  shows  something  of  the  wiles  and  perils  to 
which  young  men  in  the  large  cities  are  often  ex- 
posed. 


64  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

IT  MAY  be  relevant  to  here  briefly  remark  on  the 
blunders  and  annoyances  of  printers,  about  which 
we  hear  so  much,  and  the  misprints  which  the 
readers  of  newspapers  especially  frequently  en- 
counter. Some  are  ridiculous  enough,  to  be  sure. 
But  not  unfrequently  the  author  of  an  article  is 
himself  to  blame  from  the  illegibility  of  his  writing. 
It  is  true  that  a  compositor  should  keep  his  mind 
on  his  work,  and  if  he  does,  in  most  cases  no  ex- 
traordinary error  would  pass  on  to  the  proof-reader, 
who  might  not  always  himself  be  over  wakeful. 
But  it  is  not  in  human  nature  to  have  the  mind  so 
continually  concentrated  as  to  insure  against  any 
slip. 

There  used  to  be  a  saying  in  the  old  printing 
offices,  that  "  a  compositor  should  follow  copy, 
even  if  it  blew  out  of  the  window."  And  here  a 
little  affair  in  which  I  was  a  participant  may  be 
given  as  a  not  inapt  illustration.  It  happened  as 
far  back  as  my  second  year  in  the  Salem  Gazette 
office —  1825,  and  relates  to  the  laying  of  the  cor- 
ner stone  of  Bunker  Hill  Monument. 

In  the  procession  that  moved  from  Boston  to 
Charlestown  were  quite  a  number  of  survivors  of 
the  battle  in  carriages.  For  our  next  paper  an  ac- 
count of  the  proceedings  was  put  into  my  hands, 
as  compositor  ;  and,  in  speaking  of  those  old  worth- 
ies, it  said  they  were  among  the  patriotic  heroes 
who  fought,  bled  and  died  on  the  sanguinary  height. 
I  saw  the  lapse,  but,  boy-like,  thinking  it  a  good 
joke  followed  copy,  taking  the  precaution  to  pre- 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  65 

serve  the  manuscript  for  my  justification,  not  doubt- 
ing that  I  should  be  called  to  account.  The  proof- 
reader did  not  discover  the  lapse,  and  out  it  went 
to  the  public,  who  were  not  slow  to  have  a  health- 
ful laugh.  In  the  course  of  the  forenoon  I  was 
called  to  account,  and  appeared  before  the  angry 
chief,  manuscript  in  hand.  There  was  no  gainsay- 
ing my  position,  and  the  matter  ended  with  a  laugh, 
as  well  inside  the  office  as  out. 

But  supposing  the  copy  is  illegible,  or  the  mean- 
ing not  apparent?  A  compositor  cannot  know 
everything,  and  when  his  work  is  on  a  subject 
with  which  he  is  unacquainted,  he  is  often  greatly 
puzzled.  Most  people  think  their  writing  very 
plain,  and  to  them  probably  it  is,  and  so  is  the 
meaning,  unless  they  are  in  the  condition  of  the 
old  philosopher  who,  when  on  his  death  bed,  was 
approached  by  a  friend  who  begged  to  be  informed 
respecting  an  obscure,  but  apparently  important, 
passage  in  a  work  to  be  published  after  his  decease. 
He  pondered  over  it  for  a  time  and  then  feebly  re- 
marked, "  When  I  wrote  that  I  knew  what  it  meant, 
and  God  knew ;  perhaps  He  may  know  now,  but  I 
do  n't." 

The  figure  1  has  sometimes  done  a  full  share  of 
mischief  by  being  mistaken  by  compositors  for  a  7. 
I  remember  once  seeing  in  a  paper  an  advertise- 
ment for  proposals  for  the  erection  of  a  small  frame 
building  for  some  public  purpose,  to  be  "  75  feet 
post,"  15  feet  being  undoubtedly  intended. 

But  the  most  comical  masquerading  of  the  figure 


66  ,   LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

1  that  I  ever  knew  was  in  an  agricultural  report. 
The  author  had  the  unfortunate  habit  of  making 
the  hair  line  of  the  figure  1  stand  out  so  conspicu- 
ously that  it  was  readily  mistaken  for  a  7.  Neither 
the  compositor  nor  proof-reader  was  familiar  with 
farm  matters,  and  in  quite  a  number  of  instances 
sevens  were  used  for  ones.  And  it  may  well  be 
imagined  what  strange  stories  they  told.  The  cow 
which  was  thought  worthy  of  unbounded  praise  for 
yielding  10  quarts  at  a  milking  was  credited  with 
TO  quarts ;  the  little  garden  plot  that  produced  100 
bushels  of  early  potatoes  had  its  production  raised 
to  700  bushels ;  the  hay-field  that  was  deemed 
worthy  of  praise  for  yielding  1  ton  to  the  acre  was 
given  7  tons,  and  so  on,  through  page  after  page. 
I  was  informed  that  the  errors  were  not  discovered 
till  the  reports  were  about  to  leave  the  binder's  hands, 
and  then  the  mischief  was  cured  as  well  as  it  could 
be  by  an  errata  slip,  pasted  in.  Now  who  was  to 
blame  in  this  matter?  And  why  should  it  be  said 
that  figures  cannot  lie.  Perhaps,  though,  figures 
are  innocent  enough  in  themselves  when  properly 
treated.  But  it  is  certain  that  people  can  lie  by 
them  as  easily  as  by  words.  And  they  can  be  made 
to  tell  the  greatest  untruths  in  the  most  condensed 
form. 

Punctuation  is  still  usually  left  very  much  to  the 
taste  of  the  compositor.  And  if  the  author  makes 
his  subject  plain  there  is  little  doubt  that  it  will  be 
done  satisfactorily ;  if  not,  the  proof-reader  will 
amend.  Every  well-ordered  office  has  some  sort 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  67 

of  general  rules  in  this  particular ;  but  many,  even 
scholarly  writers,  have  very  confused  ideas  of  the 
use  of  points,  and  would  improve  their  attempts  by 
adopting  the  plan  of  Lord  Timothy  Dexter,  who 
omitted  all  points  in  the  body  of  his  book,  but  in- 
serted a  page  of  them,  of  every  kind,  at  the  end, 
leaving  it,  as  he  said,  to  the  reader  to  "pepper'* 
according  to  his  taste. 

As  before  remarked,  it  was  one  of  the  first  rules 
of  the  old  book  office  that  the  author's  copy  should 
be  strictly  followed.  Yet  authors  sometimes  make 
sad  mistakes,  or  use  forms  of  expression  that  but 
poorly  express  their  meaning.  Indeed  the  public 
would  gasp  with  astonishment  if  everything  was 
sent  out  of  the  office,  in  print,  just  as  it  was  sent  in, 
in  manuscript.  Authors  are  sometimes  indebted 
even  to  the  apprentice  lad  for  saving  help.  One 
little  incident,  out  of  a  hundred,  may  be  named. 
There  was  a  young  man  in  our  office,  working  on 
some  writing  by  a  Cambridge  professor.  Coming 
across  a  sentence  he  could  not  readily  understand, 
he  pondered  for  a  minute  or  two,  and  then  caught 
the  meaning.  Trespassing  upon  the  rule  of  follow- 
ing copy,  he  took  the  liberty  to  reconstruct  the  sen- 
tence, so  as  to  make  the  meaning  at  once  apparent. 
The  proof-reader  called  him  to  account,  and  the 
reason  was  given.  "Very  well,"  said  he,  "I  will 
let  it  go  over  to  Cambridge  as  it  is."  And  it  went. 
It  was  not  long  before  the  professor  appeared,  and 
the  offender  was  called  up.  "  So,  young  man," 
said  he,  "  you  undertook  to  alter  my  writing,  did 


68  '    LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

you?"  The  reply  was,  of  course,  "Yes,  sir," 
followed  by  the  reason  given  the  proof-reader.  The 
learned  worthy  threw  up  his  spectacles,  and  with  a 
tone  and  look  of  such  earnestness,  that  it  seemed 
as  if  he  thought  he  was  passing"  a  severe  sentence, 
said :  —  "  Well,  sir,  I  must  say  you  have  very  much 
improved  it.  But  remember,  it  was  a  dangerous 
thing  to  do ;  a  very  dangerous  thing." 

I  have,  however,  known  cases  of  another  and 
most  inexcusable  kind  —  cases  in  which  the  tricks 
of  a  roguish  compositor  have  greatly  and  justly  in- 
censed an  author.  I  remember  one  instance  in 
which  that  eminent  divine,  Dr.  Channing,  was  so 
chafed  that  he  came  as  near  downright  scolding  as 
one  of  his  forbearance  and  equanimity  possibly 
could,  without  indulging.  In  our  office,  when  it  was 
in  Bromfield  street,  there  was  a  compositor  by  the 
name  of  Fitzgerald,  an  intelligent  fellow,  but  reck- 
less, and  so  fond  of  fun  lhat  he  needed  a  watchful 
eye.  Doctor  Channing,  by  the  way,  was  not  a  good 
penman.  And  he  was  so  given  to  inter-lining  and 
erasing  that  his  manuscript  was  sometimes  almost 
indecipherable.  Fitzgerald  was  one  day  working 
on  an  article  that  the  Doctor  had  written  for  the 
Examiner,  and  I  heard  him  grumbling,  in  an  under- 
tone, to  a  fellow-workman.  Finally,  he  said  he 
would  give  up  the  struggle,  and  relieve  himself  by 
setting  up  one  page  just  as  the  manuscript  appeared 
to  him  to  read,  regardless  of  spelling,  grammar,  or 
anything  else,  and  abide  the  result.  He  worked 
on  very  quietly,  for  it  was  an  office  in  which  all 


LEGACY    OF    AX    OCTOGENARIAN.  69 

unnecessary  audible  indulgence  was  abstained  from 
during  work  hours. 

About  noon  a  note  was  received  from  the  Doctor 
saying  that  he  was  obliged  to  go  out  of  town  for  a 
day  or  two,  and  wished  very  much  to  see  a  proof  as 
soon  as  possible.  The  form  was  made  ready  and 
a  proof  taken  at  once  and  dispatched  to  the  Doctor, 
without  the  accustomed  first  reading  and  correction 
in  the  office.  The  roguish  Fitzgerald  had  carried 
out  his  threat,  and  as  ill  luck  would  have  it  the 
very  page  with  which  he  had  experimented  was  in 
the  form.  And  such  unheard  of  words,  and  such  a 
conglomeration  of  absurdities,  as  he  had  worked  in, 
had  never  before  met  the  distressed  eyes  of  an  au- 
thor. I  remember  the  word  ««  skunking  "  appeared 
once  or  twice  among  the  few  intelligible  words. 
The  Doctor  evidently  at  first  thought  that  a  rank 
insult  was  intended,  and  the  sharp  note  that  he  sent 
made  a  sensation  in  the  office.  The  best  apology 
and  explanation  that  could  be  made  was  to  tell  the 
thing  just  as  it  was,  and  the  matter  soon  dropped. 
I  could  not  help  thinking,  however,  from  a  few 
words  incidentally  dropped,  that  the  Doctor  himself 
concluded  that  there  was  a  lesson  in  the  freak 
worthy  of  being  heeded ;  for  even  he,  with  mind 
attuned  to  the  most  serious  and  lofty  themes  that 
concern  mankind,  could  appreciate,  yea,  and  relish, 
a  witty  ebullition  if  it  bubbled  up  in  the  proper 
place.  But  whether  Fitzgerald's  bold  experiment 
had  a  beneficial  effect,  I  cannot  say. 

Speaking  on  this  subject  brings  to  mind  an  anec- 


7O  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

dote  told  of  another  of  the  old  Boston  clergy,  who 
wrote  for  a  religious  periodical.  He  was  very  pious 
and  scholarly,  and  his  contributions  were  highly 
prized.  On  one  occasion  as  he  handed  in  a  paper, 
the  editor  with  impressive  seriousness  expressed  a 
hope  that  the  good  man  would  remember  the  print- 
ers in  his  prayers.  The  reply  was,  that  prayers 
were  gladly  offered  for  all  in  need  of  them  ;  but 
why  were  they  specially  needed  for  the  printers  ? 
To  this  the  editor  quietly  remarked  that  when  they 
were  put  to  work  on  the  manuscript  the  swearing 
would  be  fearful. 

There  is,  however,  a  tragic  side  to  this  matter. 
Opportunity  is  sometimes  taken  by  heartless  repro- 
bates to  impose  on  editors  their  effusions  of  spite 
or  indecency,  so  enwrapped  in  unsuspicious  words, 
or  equivocal  surroundings,  that  they  pass  out  be- 
fore detection.  Such  "jokers"  are  moved  by  a 
measure  of  depravity  hardly 'to  be  expected  in  a 
civilized  community.  And  the  publisher,  who  of- 
fered the  large  reward  of  a  thousand  dollars  for 
the  detection  of  the  miscreant  who  imposed  on  him 
an  indecent  article,  deserved  well  of  the  community. 

But,  after  all,  there  are  many  blunders  of  the 
press  which  it  is  hard  to  excuse ;  blunders  which 
are  extremely,  and  justly  so,  annoying  to  careful 
authors.  Not  long  since  an  author  of  reputation, 
who  has  suffered  a  good  deal  in  this  way,  told  me 
he  found  that  when  he  took  great  pains  with  his 
manuscript,  endeavoring  to  make  it  as  plain  as  print, 
he  found  the  most  errors  when  in  print.  And  he 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  71 

accounted  for  it  by  saying  he  supposed  that  when 
the  manuscript  was  obscure  it  was  given  to  the  best 
workman,  but  when  very  plain,  it  was  put  into  the 
hands  of  some  juvenile  or  otherwise  incompetent 
compositor. 

"Typewriters"  will  in  the  future,  no  doubt,  do 
something  for  the  relief  of  both  authors  and  print- 
ers. 

It  has  been  claimed  ever  since  printing  was  in- 
vented that  there  is  prowling  about  every  office  an 
emissary  of  the  evil  one,  called  the  printer's  devil, 
who  is  ever  on  the  alert  and  eager  to  do  the  bidding 
of  his  superior  ;  and  perhaps  the  printers'  blunders, 
annoyances,  and  mishaps,  may  as  well  be  charged 
to  him. 

A  LARGE  portion  of  my  employment  at  this  time, 
1829  and  '30,  was  reading  proofs,  and  though  still 
under  age  I  was  looked  to  for  directions  about  the 
work  in  the  absence  of  the  proprietor.  But  my 
situation  was  not  so  agreeable  as  it  had  been.  There 
were  a  large  number  of  workmen,  with  some  of 
whom  it  was  not  very  easy  to  get  along.  Among 
them  was  a  quick-tempered,  heedless  pressman 
named  McClure.  He  was  quite  noisy  one  day  and 
I  checked  him,  it  being  the  wholesome  rule  of  the 
office  for  each  to  pursue  his  duties  as  quietly  as 
possible.  He  took  fire  at  what  I  said  and  made 
some  insolent  reply.  I  then  insisted  on  his  quitting 
the  office  at  once.  The  proprietor  sustained  me, 
and  he  was  obliged  to  go.  This  little  rupture  is 


72  LEGACY    OF   AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

noted  here  as  I  may  hereafter  have  a  word  to  say 
about  McClure,  whom  I  had  always  before  found 
to  be  quite  friendly. 

Several  girls  were  introduced  into  the  office,  about 
this  time,  to  learn  to  set  types.  At  first  they  did 
not  seem  very  successful.  Their  proofs  were  foul 
and  the  male  hands  had  to  be  called  on  to  correct 
them,  it  being  difficult  and  painful  for  the  girls  to 
lean  over  the  imposing  stones  to  correct  their  own 
matter.  And  this  occasioned  considerable  grumb- 
ling. One  or  two,  however,  did  their  work  remark- 
ably well,  the  proofs  needing  very  little  correction. 
One  sensitive  workman,  I  remember,  grew  uneasy, 
fearing  that  the  girls  would  become  so  expert  as  to 
supplant  the  journeymen.  By  brooding  over  the 
matter  he  became  so  wrought  up  that  I  jocosely 
advised  him  to  expostulate  with  the  proprietor.  He 
followed  my  advice  and  afterward  told  me  that  his 
complaint  was  patiently  listened  to ;  and  then  the 
proprietor  turned  to  him  and  blandly  said,  "  Well, 
Thomas,  if  you  think  the  girls  are  going  to  make 
such  good  compositors,  why  do  n't  you  marry  one 
of  them,  and  so  have  some  one  to  support  you  if 
you  lose  your  place  ?  " 

Among  the  compositors  in  the  School  street  office 
was  a  man  who  in  after  years  was  a  marked  char- 
acter in  the  Boston  streets,  and  known  as  "  Coun- 
sellor Gill."  His  name  was  Thomas  Gill ;  and  he 
was  a  man  of  good  physique,  not  over  active  in 
movement,  and  so  near-sighted  as  to  require  the 
aid  of  spectacles.  I  think  he  told  me  that  he  was 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  73 

born  in  England,  amid  big  guns  and  all  the  para- 
phernalia of  war,  —  bullets  and  cannon  balls  being 
his  boyish  playthings,  his  father  holding  a  position 
in  one  of  the  English  dockyards ;  that  he  came  to 
America  at  a  very  early  age,  first  to  Canada  and 
then  to  the  States. 

Where  or  when  he  learned  the  printer's  trade  I 
do  not  know,  but  he  worked  in  Cambridge  for  a 
while  and  then  came  over  to  Boston.  He  was  a 
good  compositor  and  had  no  difficulty  in  obtaining 
a  favorable  situation. 

It  must  have  been  in  or  about  1828  that  I  first 
knew  Mr.  Gill.  He  was  some  years  older  than  I, 
and  married.  He  was  never  forgotten,  though  for 
many  of  his  last  years  I  hardly  ever  saw  him. 
Intelligent,  good-natured,  and  always  ready  to  ex- 
tend a  helping  hand,  it  was  impossible  not  to  esteem 
him,  and  alike  impossible  that  the  esteem  should 
not  increase  with  the  increase  of  the  intimacy. 

He  had  ambition,  and  was  anxious  to  leave  the 
printer's  case  for  some  position  likely  to  yield  a 
more  satisfactory  and  permanent  remuneration, 
stimulated  largely,  no  doubt,  by  the  requirements 
of  a  growing  family.  So  it  is  not  at  all  surprising 
that  he  conceived  the  idea  of  establishing,  in  Wash- 
ington, a  paper  of  high  order,  such  as  would  com- 
mand attention  in  all  parts  of  the  country.  Though 
baffled  by  lack  of  pecuniary  means  for  some  time, 
and  subjected  to  a  variety  of  disappointments,  he 
finally  met  with  such  encouragement  as  induced 
him  to  apply  himself  with  zeal  to  prepare  in  other 


74  -     LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

respects  for  the  undertaking.  He  realized  the 
necessity  of  deep  study  into  the  history  and  the 
broader  interests  and  requirements  of  the  nation. 
To  that  end  he  procured  the  necessary  works,  and 
diligently  applied  himself  to  the  task ;  I  remember 
his  taking  me  to  his  lodging  room  to  show  an  ingen- 
ious contrivance  he  had  erected  by  his  bedside,  by 
which  he  could  safely  light  the  pages  he  was  to  con 
during  wakeful  hours  of  the  night,  and  before  the 
morning  dawn.  He  likewise  invented  a  system  of 
short-hand  writing,  which  seemed  to  me  easily 
learned  and  likely  to  turn  to  good  account. 

So  matters  stood,  till  one  morning,  much  to  my 
surprise,  he  said  he  had  abandoned  his  project  of 
establishing  the  Washington  paper;  that  there  was 
about  to  be  commenced  in  Boston,  a  new  daily,  to 
be  called  the  Morning  Post,  and  that  he  had  been 
offered  a  position  on  it,  a  position  which  it  seemed 
prudent  for  him  to  accept  considering  his  duty  to 
his  family,  and  the  uncertainty  of  immediate  returns 
from  the  Washington  undertaking.  And  I  ventured 
to  say  that  I  fully  agreed  with  him. 

And  so,  from  the  first,  he  became  a  writer  on  the 
Post,  and  continued,  I  think,  till  the  end  of  his  life, 
or  at  least  till  the  end  of  his  working  days.  And  I 
cannot  doubt  that  the  paper,  now  so  famous,  in  its 
infancy  was  greatly  indebted  to  him  for  success ; 
for  his  police  reports,  especially,  often*  remarkably 
witty,  and  accompanied  by  remarks  and  suggestions 
full  of  good  sense  as  well  as  good  nature,  were 
copied  far  and  near,  and  greatly  extended  the 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  75 

name  and  fame  of  the  paper,  which  had  most  able 
writers  in  other  departments. 

In  his  daily  visits  to  the  lower  courts,  Mr.  Gill 
often  saw  cases  in  which  a  little  friendly  counsel 
to  parties  might  be  of  great  benefit,  and  the  ends 
of  justice  more  certainly  subserved.  And  then 
his  kindly  feelings  and  ardent  desire  that  justice 
might  be  done  were  astir,  inducing  him  to  volun- 
teer advice  of  real  value.  The  judges  knew  him 
as  one  so  honest  of  purpose  that  they  were  not 
disposed  to  enforce  any  rigid  technical  rule  to 
thwart  his  benevolent  efforts.  It  was  from  this 
sort  of  pseudo  court  practice  that  he  became  known 
as  "  Counsellor  Gill." 

AMONG  those  who  at  this  time  —  about  1829  — 
frequented  the  office,  was  William  J.  Snelling, 
then  a  young  man  of  twenty-five  years.  His  inter- 
esting work  delineating  scenes  and  experiences 
beyond  the  frontier,  giving  graphic  pictures  of  his 
life  far  away  from  any  civilized  community,  was 
then  in  process  of  printing,  and  was,  I  believe,  the 
first  book  he  ever  issued.  It  fell  to  my  lot  to  read 
the  first  proofs. 

Mr.  Snelling  was  a  striking  character;  vigorous, 
fearless  and  industrious.  He  was  born  in  Boston, 
was  a  son  of  Col.  Josiah  Snelling,  and  educated 
at  West  Point.  Colonel  Snelling,  the  father,  was 
distinguished  for  his  military  services  in  the  West, 
and  on  the  trial  of  General  Hull  by  court  martial 
in  1814  for  cowardice  in  surrendering  Detroit  to 


76  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

the  British  General  Brock,  was  a  principal  witness 
against  the  accused. 

I  think  Mr.  Snelling,  Henry  J.,  told  me  that  for 
some  time  he  was  stationed,  in  what  capacity  I  do 
not  know,  at  Fort  Snelling  on  the  western  frontier, 
and  that  from  there  he  made  the  excursions  into  the 
Indian  countries  that  enabled  him  to  give  such 
graphic  descriptions,  and  so  faithfully  depict  the 
condition  of  things  there.  The  habits,  traditions, 
and  especially  the  legends  of  the  red  men,  were 
familiar  to  him.  And  that  might  well  be,  for  he 
freely  fraternized  with  the  Indian  hunters  and  trap- 
pers, partaking  of  their  wild  fare  and  wilder  pur- 
suits. His  descriptions  were  vivid,  and  though 
possibly  not  in  every  case  fully  reliable  in  point  of 
fact,  furnished  very  apt  illustrations  of  that  kind 
of  life.  He  had  considerable  soldierly  pride,  and 
once,  on  my  remarking  something  about  the  loss  of 
a  portion  of  one  of  his  hands,  said  it  was  occasioned 
by  a  duel  he  had  fought. 

Mr.  Snelling  died  at  the  age  of  forty-four,  but 
had  written  and  edited  several  books  that  created 
marked  attention,  and  had  also  done  a  good  deal 
of  work  as  a  leading  journalist.  He  was  an  ex- 
tremely ready  and  strong  writer,  but  apt  to  be  at 
times  a  little  too  caustic.  The  work  of  his  that 
excited  most  attention  was  the  poetic  effusion  en- 
titled "  Truth  —  a  New  Year  Gift  for  Scribblers." 
It  was  a  small  volume  of  poetry,  artistically  con- 
structed, but  pungent,  and  in  many  instances  proved 
a  great  pride-leveller  for  poetic  aspirants.  Of  course, 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  77 

he  did  not  much  deal  with  the  mere  rhymesters, 
that  then,  as  now,  so  abounded,  some  of  whom  felt 
aggrieved  at  not  being  noticed.  But  all  the  higher 
class  poets  came  under  notice,  some  of  them  re- 
ceiving merited  praise,  and  others  berated  as  liter- 
ary shams.  Some  of  the  latter  pretended  indiffer- 
ence to  his  lampoons,  but  evidently  were  keenly 
alive  to  his  thrusts. 

Truth  exhibited  a  wonderful  power  of  satire, 
and  the  diction  well  accorded  with  the  spirit.  The 
venerable  poet  Isaac  McLellan,  who  I  believe  is 
yet,  1893,  living,  at  the  age  of  between  eighty 
and  ninety  years,  and  his  friend  N.  P.  Willis,  were 
among  those  who  received  no  very  gentle  castiga- 
tion.  I  very  recently  saw  in  a  New  York  Herald 
a  report  of  a  conversation  held  with  Mr.  McLellan 
by  a  correspondent,  in  which  these  remarks  occur : 
"Willis,"  said  the  aged  poet,  "was  one  of  the 
most  even  tempered  men  I  ever  knew,  but  I  saw 
him  very  mad  once,  when  the  Boston  Truth  at- 
tacked us  both.  I  tried  to  quiet  him  by  laughing 
at  the  critic,  who  had  hauled  me  over  the  coals  quite 
as  roughly  as  he  had  Willis,  but  Willis  declared  he 
would  whip  him  on  sight,  which  he  \vould  had  they 
met,  for  he  was  more  than  a  match  for  the  critic, 
whose  name  was  Snelling.  What  made  Willis  so 
angry  was  that  Truth  praised  Bryant  and  Long- 
fellow in  the  same  article  that  scored  him." 

I  doubt  much  whether  McLellan  was  right  in 
his  opinion  that  Willis  could  have  whipped  Snelling, 
for  the  latter  was  wiry  and  active,  physically,  and 


78  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

well  trained  in  the   athletic    exercises  of   frontier 
life. 

The  ultimate  fate  of  Mr.  Snelling,  whose  early 
life  was  so  brilliant  and  promising,  was  sad  in- 
deed. He  became  intemperate  and  died  in  misery 
and  degradation. 


As  WAS  the  case  with  most  young  men  similarly 
situated,  I  occasionally  had  an  undefinable  desire 
to  change  my  home  quarters.  My  first  boarding 
place  in  Boston  was  on  Fort  Hill,  one  of  those 
three  commanding  elevations  that  probably  gave 
rise  to  Boston's  original  name  of  Trimountain. 
A  portion  of  the  old  Revolutionary  fortification 
still  remained  conspicuous  on  the  summit ;  and  on 
all  sides,  from  the  residences,  commanding  views 
were  had.  From  my  lodging  room  windows  there 
was  a  diversified  and  charming  prospect,  embracing 
on  one  side  a  good  portion  of  the  harbor,  with  its 
islands  and  ever-moving  water  craft,  and  on  the 
other  the  city,  with  its  steeples  and  nameless  archi- 
tectural piles,  with  the  picturesque  hills  beyond  as 
a  far-away  background.  But  alas  for  Fort  Hill  ! 
Long  since  has  the  devastating  hand  of  improve- 
ment levelled  it  well  nigh  to  the  ancient  water  line. 
And  now  the  tide  of  trade  surges  over  where  its 
crest  of  green  was  reared. 

From  my  first  home  on  Fort  Hill,  which  I  usu- 
ally reached  by  way  of  Pearl  street,  then  an  avenue 
of  pleasant  residences  but  no  business  structures,  I 
removed  to  Province  House  court,  between  Brom- 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  79 

field  and  School  streets.  Afterwards,  as  my  circle 
of  acquaintance  enlarged  and  I  desired  to  become 
familiar  with  other  localities,  I  made  several  re- 
moves. At  one  period  I  boarded  on  Summer 
street ;  then  on  Washington,  near  Boylston  Market ; 
then  in  West  Boston,  a  short  distance  in  the  rear 
of  the  State  House.  In  all  these  places  I  found 
good  homes  and  agreeable  companions. 


WHILE  boarding  on  Summer  street  I  had  for  a 
room-mate  William  S.  Damrell,  a  pressman  in  our 
Bromfield  street  office.  He  was  good-natured,  po- 
lite, and  very  companionable  ;  likewise,  what  meant 
much  in  those  days,  a  zealous  fireman.  Of  course 
this  was  long  before  the  day  of  steam  fire  engines. 
The  "boys"  had  to  run  with  the  "  machines,"  and 
there  was  much  rivalry  between  the  companies  in 
their  efforts  to  be  first  at  the  burning  building ; 
frequent  conflicts  took  place,  some  of  a  desperate 
character.  Mr.  Damrell  was  of  rather  a  pacific 
disposition,  but  would  occasionally  become  quite 
excited  when  the  honor  of  his  company  was  in 
question ;  and  on  his  return  from  night  duty  would 
have  little  compassion  on  my  sleepiness  in  giving 
an  extended  account  of  a  conflict  with  some  other 
company. 

In  due  time  Mr.  Damrell  commenced  business 
for  himself,  in  Boston,  took  considerable  interest 
in  public  affairs,  and  finally  became  a  member  of 
Congress. 


8O  -      LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

AMONG  my  fellow  boarders  in  the  Washington 
street  house,  was  a  young  man  named  Allen,  a 
compositor,  who  came  from  Newport,  Rhode  Island, 
and  I  believe  claimed  to  have  worked  at  the  identi- 
cal press  that  Franklin  used  while  an  apprentice  to 
his  tyrannical  brother.  He  was  something  of  a 
singer  and  a  good  player  on  the  violin.  It  was 
our  delight  to  have  him  on  a  stormy  evening  march 
back  and  forth  in  the  room,  playing  his  violin  and 
singing,  not  in  a  very  melodious  voice,  to  be  sure, 
"The  Bright  Rosy  Morning,"  "My  Friend  and 
Pitcher,"  or  some  other  of  the  then  popular  songs. 
And  it  was  his  delight  to  make  these  musical  con- 
tributions to  our  evening  entertainments. 

One  day  Mr.  Allen  told  me  that  he  had  seen 
hanging  in  a  barber's  shop  an  old  violin,  which  he 
had  taken  down,  tried,  and  found  to  be  of  unusu- 
ally fine  tone,  adding  that  it  was  a  bargain  at  six 
dollars,  the  price  asked.  "And  now,"  said  he,  "  if 
you  say  so,  I  '-11  buy  it  for  you,  and  teach  you  to 
play."  His  offer  was  accepted  with  thanks,  and  I 
took  lessons  till  able  to  play  simple  tunes ;  but 
somehow  or  other  I  found  I  loved  to  hear  music 
better  than  to  make  it,  and  so  never  achieved  much 
of  anything  beyond  common  psalm  tunes.  Perhaps 
I  was  too  old  to  begin,  for  there  is  a  saying  that  no 
one  can  become  a  good  violin  player  if  he  begins 
to  learn  after  he  is  ten  years  old.  However,  I  got 
amusement  enough  out  of  the  old  instrument  to 
fully  compensate  for  the  investment.  And  by  the 
experience  came  the  conviction  that  there  are  mul- 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  8 1 

titudes  who  can  appreciate  and  enjoy  music,  who 
yet  never  touched  an  instrument  or  even  experi- 
mented with  his  own  voice. 

Mr.  Allen  was  singularly  unthrifty,  always  seemed 
poor,  and  was  behindhand  with  his  board  bill, 
though  he  earned  fair  wages.  He  was  eminently 
one  of  the  class  of  whom  we  say  he  was  deficient 
in  the  "  get  along  faculty."  He  was  not  expensive 
in  dress,  nor  apparently  given  to  any  extravagant 
habit.  But  there  were  leaks  somewhere  in  his 
purse.  I  had  not  seen  him  for  thirty  years  or 
more,  when,  as  I  was  one  day  passing  along  Mar- 
ket street  in  Lynn,  I  met  him.  There  was  instan- 
taneous recognition  on  both  sides.  He  looked  as 
if  dressed  in  the  same  suit  that  he  wore  of  old,  and 
his  look  and  walk  were  the  same.  He  said  he  was 
then  travelling  about  tuning  pianos,  and  I  was  able 
to  procure  for  him  a  job  or  two  that  brought  in  a 
few  dollars. 

IN  THE  same  boarding  house,  on  Washington 
street,  there  was  also  a  Mr.  Watson,  a  Scotchman, 
who  had  seen  a  good  deal  of  the  world  and  profited 
by  his  observations  and  experiences.  He  was  con- 
siderably older  than  I,  but  somehow  we  soon  took 
to  each  other,  and  his  friendship  was  often  found 
beneficial.  He  was  a  very  prudent,  close-calculat- 
ing, industrious  man  —  a  real  Scotchman.  He 
appeared  in  Boston  almost  penniless,  as  he  told 
me,  and,  having  no  trade,  did  not  know  what  to 
turn  his  hand  to.  First  he  procured  a  hand-cart, 


82  -     LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

thinking  he  might  deliver  small  packages  about 
town.  But  before  starting  on  that  laborious  busi- 
ness he  happened  in  an  auction  room  on  Kilby 
street,  where  he  saw  small  wares  sold,  as  he 
thought,  very  cheap,  taken  in  quantities.  He  ven- 
tured to  purchase,  as  far  as  his  limited  means 
would  permit,  such  little  articles  as  he  thought  most 
useful  in  a  household.  With  these  in  his  peddler's 
basket,  he  started  off  into  the  suburbs,  and  was  so 
successful  that  he  was  able,  after  a  few  trips,  to 
take  some  heavier  articles  and  assume  the  regular 
peddler's  pack.  Success  still  attended  him,  and  in 
a  year  or  two  he  was  able  to  employ  others,  who, 
with  their  packs,  went  forth  into  the  country  selling 
his  goods  at  half  profit.  One  or  two  of  these  I 
well  knew.  One  of  them,  after  a  few  years,  be- 
came a  thrifty  Hanover  street  merchant,  and  ac- 
quired a  wide  reputation  for  wealth  and  shrewd 
financiering.  Another  opened  a  store  in  Portsmouth, 
New  Hampshire,  married,  reared  a  fine  family, 
giving  his  children  good  educations  —  one  of  the 
sons  becoming  a  minister  in  the  Episcopal  Church, 
—  and  died  a  few  years  ago,  an  octogenarian, 
leaving  an  enviable  reputation.  I  knew  him  well, 
and  visited  him  after  his  permanent  location  in 
Portsmouth.  He,  too,  was  a  Scotchman,  a  High- 
lander, of  indomitable  perseverance  and  unswerving 
honesty. 

Indeed,  Mr.  Watson  did  much  in  the  way  indicated 
to  help  along  others,  at  the  same  time,  no  doubt, 
looking  sharply  to  his  own  interest.  He  accumu- 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  83 

lated  quite  a  little  fortune,  as  I  afterward  learned, 
but  lost  most  of  it  by  the  failure  of  a  manufacturing 
company  with  which  he  had  largely  invested. 

There  was  another  man  in  Boston  at  this  time 
with  whom  I  became  acquainted  through  Mr.  Wat- 
son, whose  career  in  some  respects  was  much  like 
that  of  Mr.  Watson.  His  name  was  Samuel,  and 
I  only  knew  him  when  he  was  established  in  Kilby 
street  as  a  wholesale  dealer  in  a  dry  goods  line. 
I  was  much  interested  in  the  occasional  talks  I  had 
with  him,  though  he  was  much  the  elder.  There 
was  a  vein  of  romance  in  his  career.  As  he  or 
Mr.  Watson  told  me,  he  was  one  dark,  rainy  night 
returning  from  Lynn  with  his  peddler's  basket, 
brooding  over  his  ill  success,  the  tide  of  good  luck 
seeming  to  have  turned  against  him,  when  he  over- 
took, on  Charlestown  bridge,  a  young  woman  pur- 
suing her  way  without  umbrella  or  other  sufficient 
protection.  He  stepped  up  to  her  and  asked  if  she 
would  take  part  in  the  protection  of  his  umbrella. 
She  thankfully  accepted,  and  the  two  walked  on 
together.  He  was  interested  in  her  conversation, 
and  when  they  parted  asked  if  she  would  permit 
him  to  call  on  her.  She  readily  consented,  and 
gave  him  her  address.  He  called,  the  acquaint- 
ance continued,  and  finally  ripened  into  marriage. 
And  he  was  accustomed  to  lovingly  declare  that 
from  that  day  forth  his  prospects  brightened,  and 
everything  prospered.  When  I  knew  him  it  was 
considerably  after  he  had  exchanged  the  peddler's 
basket  for  the  counting  room  of  the  wholesale 


84  •    LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

dealer  and  importer.  I  never  knew  much  of  his 
family,  but  was  told  that  a  son  of  his,  likewise, 
entered  the  ministry  of  the  Episcopal  Church. 

Of  course  the  boarders,  when  assembled  on  win- 
ter evenings,  engaged  in  animated  discussions  on 
every  conceivable  topic.  I  recollect  once  getting 
into  a  warm  debate  upon  some  passage  in  the  life 
of  Napoleon  Bonaparte.  My  opponent  and  I  were 
probably  both  about  equally  ignorant  of  the  matter 
we  undertook  to  discuss ;  but  suddenly  my  Scotch 
friend,  Mr.  Watson,  entered  the  lists  against  me, 
and  soon  riddled  my  argumentative  breastwork  by 
demolishing  facts.  So  I  found  it  expedient  to 
withdraw  as  soon  as  a  good  opportunity  offered. 
The  matter  passed  out  of  mind,  till  some  days  after, 
when  Mr.  Watson  in  confidence  alluded  to  it,  and 
said  that  what  he  offered  as  facts,  and  which 
proved  so  damaging  to  my  argument,  were  not 
facts  at  all,  but  fictions  conceived  at  the  moment 
for  the  purpose  of  giving  me  a  lesson  that  he 
thought  might  prove  useful  on  some  more  import- 
ant occasion.  He  said  he  saw  that  I  was  ignorant 
of  the  subject,  and  made  the  venture,  at  which  he 
hoped  I  would  not  be  offended.  I  assured  him, 
with  sincere  thanks,  that  no  offence  was  taken,  and 
that  I  hoped  to  profit  by  the  lesson.  And  I  feel 
sure  that  I  did. 


LIKE  most  young  men  of  similar  surroundings, 
I  must  acknowledge  to  have  been  unsettled  in  re- 
ligious views  and  irregular  in  attendance  on  public 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  85 

worship;  never,  however,  losing  the  respect  for 
religion  early  instilled,  and  in  the  occasional  board- 
ing-house discussions,  I  usually  took  the  "  orthodox 
side,"  as  they  used  to  call  it. 

In  the  large  city,  one  of  course  has  great  ad- 
vantage in  the  opportunities  afforded  to  hear  the 
most  eminent  preachers,  and  while  in  Boston  occa- 
sions were  not  wanting  to  listen  to  the  leading 
divines  of  the  day.  Dr.  Channing  and  Dr.  Beecher, 
the  elder,  father  of  the  late  Henry  Ward  Beecher  of 
Brooklyn,  were  then  preaching  in  the  city.  The  lat- 
ter was  at  Park  Street  Church  at  the  time  of  which  I 
am  speaking,  the  stone  church  in  Hanover  street 
having  been  burned.  During  his  controversy  with 
the  Roman  Catholic  clergy,  which  was,  I  think, 
in  1828,  the  body  of  that  capacious  edifice,  on  the 
Sunday  evenings  when  the  subject  was  to  be  pur- 
sued, was  filled  to  overflowing  by  eagerly  listening 
male  auditors. 

Dr.  Beecher's  style  of  oratory,  as  I  remember  it, 
was  a  good  deal  like  that  of  the  late  "silver- 
tongued"  Wendell  Phillips.  There  was  no  ranting 
or  by-play  about  him.  He  was  earnest,  clear,  and 
void  of  all  effort  to  captivate  by  oratorical  display.  I 
remember  one  Sunday  night  in  particular.  He  was 
replying  to  passages  in  the  discourse  delivered  by  the 
Catholic  priest  the  previous  Sunday  evening,  on 
some  question  pertaining  to  the  Reformation.  I 
can  see  him  now,  as  he  stands  erect  in  the  old- 
fashioned  pulpit,  glances  momentarily  at  his  little 
slip  of  notes,  then  throws  up  his  spectacles  to  the 


86  "     LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

top  of  his  head,  and,  in  clear  tones  that  can  be 
heard  in  every  part  of  the  house,  utters  a  sentence 
that  brings  almost  the  whole  audience  irresistibly 
to  their  feet.  I  cannot  recall  to  mind  any  other 
scene  like  that. 

That  controversy  was  a  notable  one.  The  ablest 
Catholic  clergy  entered  the  arena  against  Dr. 
Beecher,  and  on  the  controversial  evenings  crowds 
attended  St.  Mary's,  in  Franklin  street,  as  well  as 
Park  Street  Church.  I  remember  that  on  one 
evening,  long  before  dark,  so  many  were  pressing 
towards  the  doors,  that  when  they  were  opened 
there  was  such  a  rush  that  several  fainted,  and  one 
lady  near  me  had  her  arm  broken.  As  in  most 
cases  of  such  controversies,  however,  there  were 
probably  no  specially  beneficial  results. 

Somewhere  about  the  time  of  the  controversy 
between  Dr.  Beecher  and  the  Catholics,  that  re- 
markable young  woman,  Fanny  Wright,  made  her 
appearance  in  Boston  and  created  something  of  a 
sensation.  She  lectured  in  old  Federal  Street  The- 
atre, a  dingy  brick  building  on  the  corner  of 
Franklin  street,  and  attracted  large  audiences. 
She  was  then  about  thirty  years  of  age,  was  of  a 
good  Scotch  family,  and  had  a  good  education. 
Her  eloquence  and  enthusiasm  stirred  many  a  slug- 
gish mind,  but  whether  to  better  works  was  doubt- 
ful, for  she  was  a  free-thinker,  bold  and  incisive. 
Yet  she  was  so  benevolent  and  deeply  touched  by 
the  wrongs  and  sufferings  endured  by  the  helpless, 
that  she  merited  and  received  the  plaudits  of  multi- 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  87 

tudes  who  scorned  to  attend  her  teachings.  To 
those  in  bondage  she  was  ever  ready  to  extend  a 
helping  hand,  and  exultingly  suffered  the  denunci- 
ations of  the  slave  owners  of  the  South.  She 
seems  to  have  had  large  means  at  her  command, 
and  to  have  devoted  them  to  unselfish  purposes. 
Among  her  possessions  were  some  two  thousand 
acres  of  land  in  Tennessee,  whereon  a  part  of  the 
city  of  Memphis  now  stands.  She  visited  France 
once  or  twice ;  once,  it  is  said,  by  invitation  of 
General  Lafayette.  In  France  she  married  M. 
D'Arusmont,  by  whom  she  had  a  daughter ;  but 
the  matrimonial  connection  was  soon  dissolved. 
She  published  several  works,  one  or  two  of  which 
were  severely  criticised  by  the  press,  not  on  account 
of  lack  of  literary  merit,  but  for  the  sentiments 
they  advocated.  In  person,  as  I  recollect  her, 
coming  on  the  stage  attended  by  a  well-appearing 
gentleman,  she  was  rather  tall,  with  short,  curly 
hair,  and  at  once  entered  on  her  subject  in  a  clear 
voice,  her  sentences,  however  caustic,  uttered  with- 
out circumlocution,  hesitancy  or  fear.  She  main- 
tained the  air  of  a  lady  while  uttering  sentiments 
not  always  congenial  to  ladies  of  delicate  sensibili- 
ties. 

SUNDAY  was  the  day,  though  perhaps  less  so  than 
in  these  bicycle  times,  on  which  young  men  indulged 
in  excursions  into  the  neighboring  country  towns, 
most  of  which  have  now  attained  the  dignity  of 
cities.  With  a  companion  or  two  I  often  took  long 


88  .    LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

rambles;  if  in  the  morning,  usually  attending  some 
wayside  church,  as  likely,  I  suppose,  for  rest  as 
from  any  other  motive.  Roxbury,  Dorchester, 
Cambridge,  Brookline,  and  especially  South  Bos- 
ton, were  visited  on  many  a  pleasant  Sunday.  In 
the  latter  place  there  were  then  but  few  inhabitants, 
and  the  old  Revolutionary  fortifications  still  remained 
conspicuous.  East  Boston  was  not  then  "  laid  out," 
being  still  known  as  Noddle's  Island.  I  think  there 
was  one  shabby  old  house  some  distance  down  the 
island.  And  a  not  much  better  description  would 
hold  good  of  Chelsea. 

IN    NEW    YORK. 

HAVING  got  to  be  twenty  years  of  age,  and  en- 
tertaining no  doubt  about  being  able  to  earn  a  living 
almost  anywhere,  I  concluded  to  try  my  fortune  in 
New  York.  With  that  view  I  resigned  my  situa- 
tion in  Boston,  and  on  the  8th  of  July,  1830,  at 
about  five  o'clock  in  the  morning,  took  a  stage  for 
Providence,  Rhode  Island,  expecting  immediately 
on  arriving  there,  to  take  a  steamer  for  New  York. 
It  was  before  the  day  of  railroads  ;  but  a  few  small, 
slow,  coast  steamers  had  begun  to  ply.  The  next 
day,  at  noon,  I  left  Providence  in  the  steamer  Presi- 
dent, then  the  most  notable  on  these  waters,  and 
arrived  in  New  York  early  in  the  morning  of  the 
loth.  The  passage  was  very  pleasant,  and  very 
quick,  as  was  then  considered,  the  run  being  just 
about  eighteen  hours. 

One  of  the  passengers,  a  gentleman  with  whom 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  89 

I  was  somewhat  acquainted,  was  to  proceed  directly 
on  to  Philadelphia,  and  having  taken  several  letters 
for  New  York,  asked  if  I  would  deliver  them  in  the 
course  of  the  day.  Such  conveyance  of  letters  by 
private  hand  was  very  common  in  those  days,  as 
mail  postage  was  high —  eighteen  and  three-quarter 
cents,  for  instance,  from  Boston  to  New  York.  I 
readily  consented  to  deliver  the  letters,  impelled, 
in  part,  by  the  thought  that  it  would  afford  a  good 
opportunity  to  see  different  parts  of  the  city,  not 
imagining  what  a  wearying  tramp  I  should  have, 
nor  how  much  greater  New  York  was  than  Boston. 
It  was  a  warm  day,  but  I  persevered  till  towards 
night,  when  I  became  utterly  exhausted,  and  sat 
down  on  a  doorstep  on  the  east  side  of  Broadway, 
at  the  corner  of  Broome  street.  And  now,  after 
more  than  three  score  years,  I  can  never  pass  that 
hospitable  point  without  indulging  in  sombre 
thought.  At  that  time  there  was  scarcely  anything 
but  dwelling  houses  in  the  vicinity,  trade  having 
hardly  reached  Canal  street.  Broome  street  was 
indeed  almost  the  extremity  of  "  up-town."  Upon 
that  door-step  I  sat  for  some  time,  in  deep  medita- 
tion, the  shadows  of  homesickness  as  well  as  the 
shadows  of  evening  gathering  around  me.  Urged 
by  the  necessity  of  seeking  a  lodging  place,  I 
finally  arose,  and  still  having  one  or  two  undelivered 
letters,  renewed  my  tramp.  On  inquiry,  I  found 
that  one  of  the  letters  directed  me  to  a  place  not 
far  from  where  I  then  was ;  and  what  was  more,  it 
was  for  my  former  friend  McClure.  Considering 


9O  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

the  circumstances  under  which  we  had  last  parted 
in  Boston,  I  did  not  know  in  what  temper  I  might 
find  him.  However,  as  the  letter  might  prove  a 
sort  of  propitiatory  offering  I  did  not  hesitate  to 
hasten  to  the  office  where  he  was  employed,  which 
was  the  Conference  office,  as  it  was  called  —  the 
great  Methodist  printing  establishment  —  in  Crosby 
street.  The  hands  were  just  quitting  work  as  I 
entered,  and  McClure,  catching  sight  of  me,  came 
forward  with  extended  hand,  and  with  great  cordial- 
ity insisted  on  my  going  with  him  to  his  boarding 
place  which  was  near  by,  in  a  good  Methodist  fam- 
ily. My  spirits  rose  on  this  agreeable  turn,  and  in 
an  hour  I  was  a  fellow  boarder  with  him,  and  par- 
taking of  a  savory  evening  meal.  Nor  did  his  good 
offices  end  here.  He  procured  me  a  situation  as 
compositor,  in  the  Conference  office,  where  I  re- 
mained till  I  left  the  city.  The  only  drawback  to 
his  beneficence  that  I  remember  to  have  experienced 
was  his  borrowing  a  sum  of  money  which  he  never 
repaid. 

At  that  time  there  was  not  a  power  press  in  the 
Conference  office,  but  some  twenty  hand  presses 
were  kept  constantly  running.  The  office  was  in 
rather  a  dismal  locality,  Crosby  street,  but  the  large 
business  went  on  in  a  quiet,  orderly  manner.  The 
leading  spirits  of  Methodism  were  frequently  in 
and  out,  but  they  had  little  intercourse  with  the 
workmen.  Mr.  Collord,  an  elderly  but  smart, 
active  man,  usually  stirring  about  in  rolled-up 
shirt  sleeves,  was  superintendent ;  and  Mr.  Brown, 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  9! 

usually  with  buttoned-up  coat  and  pen  in  hand  or 
behind  the  ear,  was  sort  of  sub-director. 

Among  the  compositors  in  the  Conference  office 
was  Edward  Stephens,  some  four  or  five  years 
older  than  myself,  but  one  with  whom  I  soon  formed 
a  close  and  enduring  friendship.  He  was  a  young 
man  of  excellent  principles,  good  disposition,  in- 
dustrious and  saving.  He  boarded  in  Elm  street, 
and  after  a  month  or  two  I  became  an  inmate  of 
the  same  family,  and  roomed  with  him.  There 
were  but  three  or  four  boarders,  one  of  whom  was 
a  sprightly,  vivacious  young  lady  of  about  my  own 
age,  of  the  name  of  Winterbotham.  And  in  the 
family  was  another  young  lady,  a  daughter  of  the 
landlady,  perhaps  a  year  or  two  younger.  We 
four  made  up  a  sort  of  little  coterie  by  ourselves, 
meeting  almost  every  evening  in  the  parlor  for 
gossip  or  other  entertainment.  Sometimes  we  vis- 
ited places  of  amusement,  and  sometimes  took  long 
walks  to  the  Battery  or  other  public  grounds. 
I  need  not  say  here  that  Miss  Winterbotham  soon 
afterward  was  married  to  Mr.  Stephens,  and  be- 
came Mrs.  Ann  S.  Stephens,  long  known  as 
one  of  the  foremost  female  writers  of  America. 
For  some  years  after  their  marriage  they  had  a 
somewhat  hard  struggle  to  gain  the  position  de- 
sired. They  were  well  matched,  always  main- 
tained a  most  respectable  rank,  were  ambitious  and 
industrious.  Finally,  success  crowned  their  laud- 
able efforts.  They  attained  wealth,  and  all  the 
benefits  and  comforts  afforded  by  social  position. 


92  .  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

The  last  time  I  saw  Mrs.  Stephens,  which  was 
some  time  after  her  husband's  decease,  a  bright, 
affectionate  grandchild  was  leaning  on  her  knee. 

When  I  first  knew  Mrs.  Stephens,  I  think  she 
was  about  twenty  years  of  age.  And  even  then 
her  chief  support  was  derived  from  her  pen.  She 
was  frequently  called  on  for  a  poem  or  song  to  be 
used  at  an  occasional  celebration,  and  was  well  paid 
for  the  contribution.  And  sometimes  she  wrote  a 
tale  for  one  of  the  very  few  American  magazines 
then  published.  She  was  a  picturesque  and  engag- 
ing writer  in  her  chosen  department,  and  after  her 
position  had  been  attained,  her  popularity  for  many 
years  was  great,  and  her  income  large.  At  one 
time,  I  believe,  she  acted  as  chief  editor  of  that  large 
and  noted  weekly  sheet,  the  Brother  Jonathan,  the 
office  being  in  Nassau  street.  I  remember  calling 
there  one  morning  and  finding  her  donning  what 
she  called  her  working  dress,  preparatory  to  com- 
mencing the  day's  labor  at  the  editorial  desk. 

Mrs.  Stephens,  though  a  ready  and  correct  writer, 
was  not  an  adept  in  the  mysteries  of  English  gram- 
mar. Indeed,  she  once  told  me  that  she  could  not 
repeat  one  of  Murray's  rules.  And  this  reminds 
me  of  a  remark  made  by  Walt  Whitman.  "  Why, 
N.,"  he  said,  "  what  does  all  this  talk  about  gram- 
mar amount  to?  If  one  knows  the  exact  meaning 
of  a  word,  he  will  always  use  it  right,  whether  he 
can  or  can  't  give  rules."  Mrs.  Stephens  used  lan- 
guage with  accuracy  and  grace,  if  she  had  never 
studied  Murray. 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  93 

At  the  time  of  which  I  speak,  there  were  in  New 
York  many  quaint  old  wooden  houses,  usually  of 
two  stories,  some  dating  back  to  the  days  of  the 
Dutch  possession.  Even  on  Broadway,  upward 
from  the  City  Hall,  several  were  to  be  seen.  But 
I  believe  all  have  now  disappeared  from  that  bril- 
liant thoroughfare.  In  some  of  the  older  streets, 
however,  here  and  there  may  yet  be  seen  reminders 
of  those  far-off  days,  wedged  in  among  the  modern 
structures.  Next  to  where  the  dark  stone  hospital 
stood,  on  the  west  side  of  Broadway,  I  think  nearly 
opposite  where  Pearl  street  comes  in,  was  one  of 
these  old  relics.  It  was  long  occupied  as  a  cigar 
shop,  and  the  very  one  in  which  Mary  Rogers, 
"the  beautiful  cigar  girl,"  tended.  She  suddenly 
disappeared,  some  fifty  years  ago,  and  I  believe 
was  never  heard  of  after. 

At  this  time,  1829,  what  was  then  "up  town," 
is  now  quite  "  down  town."  At  the  then  junction 
of  Broadway  and  the  Bowery,  the  territory  that 
includes  the  present  busy  Union  Square  was  farm- 
ing land,  as  prolific,  perhaps,  as  could  be  expected 
of  such  rocky,  thin-soiled  acres.  There  was  an 
orchard,  a  kitchen  garden  or  two,  and  some  pieces 
devoted  to  floriculture.  Thitherward  the  young 
fellows  were  wont  to  take  their  Sunday  afternoon 
rambles,  occasionally  making  a  descent  for  a  share 
of  the  ripening  fruit.  I  well  remember  one  old 
man  who  suffered  so  much  by  depredations  on  his 
pear  trees  that  he  sometimes  became  so  enraged 
that  the  raiders  were  greatly  amused  by  his  antics, 


94  -   LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

continuing  their  spoliations  more  for  the  sake  of 
hearing  his  scoldings  and  seeing  his  ranting  than 
to  secure  his  fruit.  I  never  felt  much  inclination 
to  join  in  such  raids ;  but  if  I  had  done  so,  I  have 
certainly  during  these  latter  years  paid  the  penaltr 
by  having  my  own  attempts  at  fruit  culture  thwarted 
by  similar  means. 

I  was  forcibly  reminded  of  the  old  yeoman  many 
years  after  the  orchard  had  given  place  to  stately 
business  structures  now  to  be  seen  there,  in  quite 
an  unexpected  manner.  I  was  standing  in  the 
Square,  gazing  about  in  wonder  at  the  then  aspect 
of  the  place,  and  recalling  to  mind  the  rural  land- 
scape of  those  earlier  days.  While  thus  musing,  a 
white-haired  gentleman  paused  near  me.  Both 
being  at  leisure,  we  soon  fell  into  conversation. 
I  told  him  what  I  had  been  thinking  about,  and 
spoke  of  the  old  owner  of  the  pear  trees. 

"  O,"  said  he,  "I  knew  the  old  man  of  whom 
you  speak  very  well.  He  was  really  a  good  man, 
but  so  long  subjected  to  such  annoyances  as  you 
speak  of,  that  his  patience  was  exhausted  and  he 
became  testy  and  sometimes  morose." 

'  *  Finally,"  he  said,  "some  Wall  street  speculators, 
seeing  the  rapid  strides  of  the  city  in  that  direction, 
and  perceiving  it  to  be  a  favorable  chance  for 
profitable  investment,  made  an  offer  of  thirty  thou- 
sand dollars  for  the  farm.  The  offer  was  so  unex- 
pectedly large  that  the  old  man  thought  they  were 
joking.  However,  when  he  became  convinced 
that  the  offer  was  genuine  he  lost  no  time  in  ac- 
cepting, and  the  deed  was  passed. 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 


95 


"  The  Square  was  soon  laid  out,  the  old  trees  and 
shrubbery  removed,  the  land  neatly  cleared,  and 
other  improvements  made.  Presently  some  stately 
buildings  were  reared,  and  the  price  of  lots  so  sud- 
denly and  so  enormously  rose,  that  the  speculators 
themselves  were  astonished.  And  the  old  farmer, 
watching  the  course  of  events,  became  so  bewil- 
dered and  regretful  at  what  he  had  done  that  he 
actually  committed  suicide." 

My  informant  gave  such  a  circumstantial  and 
detailed  account  that  it  seemed  to  me  he  must  have 
had  some  sort  of  connection  with  one  or  the  other 
of  the  parties.  But  after  all,  it  was  doubtless  a 
good  bargain  for  the  old  man.  He  never  would 
have  brought  his  land  into  the  market  at  a  profit, 
having  no  means  to  do  so ;  while,  as  it  turned  out, 
he  received  what  was  ample  for  his  support  during 
the  remainder  of  his  life,  free  from  the  labors  and 
cares  of  husbandry  and  the  annoyance  of  Sunday 
ramblers. 

The  territory  now  forming  the  splendid  Central 
Park  was  a  "  dreary  waste,"  even  down  to  a  con- 
siderably later  period.  It  was  uneven,  rocky,  and 
sustained  a  sparse  growth  of  stunted  trees,  with ' 
here  and  there,  where  a  patch  of  propitious  soil  was 
found,  a  brambly  growth  of  unseemly  vegetation. 
In  a  few  hollows,  where  underground  ledge  pre- 
vented the  rains  from  sinking  away,  a  diminutive 
pond  might  be  seen,  with  its  yellow-green  scum, 
in  which  the  green-headed  bullfrogs  delighted  to 
revel.  This  was  almost  too  far  out  of  town  to 


96  .    LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

attract  the  Sunday  ramblers.  And  here  I  may  re- 
mark, that  much  lower  down,  even  below  the  upper 
end  of  the  Bowery,  I  once  saw  lying  on  the  sunny 
pathway  that  ran  along  the  East  River  side,  a  very 
large  black  snake. 

AT  THE  time  of  which  I  speak,  too,  the  city 
authorities  were  complaisant  enough  to  allow  the 
streets  to  be  perambulated  by  swine  of  all  degrees  — 
big  hogs  and  little  pigs,  white  and  black,  fat  and 
lean.  They  were,  perhaps,  allowed  to  roam  about 
for  the  services  they  might  render  as  scavengers : 
for  the  time  had  not  come  when  the  garbage  carts, 
in  effectual  numbers,  were  nightly  rumbling  over 
the  pavements.  Vast  quantities  of  offal  were 
thrown  out,  in  some  of  the  poorer  streets  especially, 
on  which  the  swine  banqueted  and  grew  fat. 
How  they  ever  found  their  homes,  or  how  their 
owners  ever  found  them,  was  a  mystery.  They 
were  a  nuisance  any  way ;  but  it  was  some  years 
before  their  services  as  street-cleaners  were  dis- 
pensed with.  They  were  vigilant  and  wonderfully 
successful  in  avoiding  accidents.  Yet  one  was 
occasionally  maimed  or  killed  outright.  I  recollect 
seeing  a  motherly  one,  with  a  retinue  of  little  ones, 
run  over  and  killed,  in  Madison  street.  And  it 
was  so  pathetic  a  spectacle  as  to  elicit  many  a  pity- 
ing expression  from  passers-by. 

There  seemed  to  be  a  great  many  more  dogs 
about  the  New  York  streets  at  that  time  than  at 
present,  in  proportion  to  the  population.  And 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  97 

there  appeared  to  be  a  settled  hostility  between 
them  and  the  pigs.  Many  a  crowd  gathered  to 
witness  the  battles,  which  were  generally  individual 
contests.  Yet  the  little  dogs  and  little  pigs  occasion- 
ally so  far  fraternized  as  to  engage  in  a  seemingly 
sort  of  rough  play.  There  was  a  little  dog  kept  at 
a  house  where  I  boarded,  who  frequently  made  a 
dash  for  a  juvenile  porker  whose  route  seemed  to 
lead  our  way ;  but  after  their  gambols  the  juvenile 
snorter  was  quite  likely  to  go  on  his  way  with  a 
lacerated  and  bleeding  ear. 


IN  MY  various  walks  about  the  streets  of  New 
York,  at  leisure  hours,  I  never  failed  to  find  objects 
of  interest  and  amusement,  if  not  always  of  edifi- 
cation. The  brilliant  crowds  of  the  fashionable  ranks 
who  perambulated  Broadway  on  sunny  afternoons, 
with  the  background  of  gorgeous  show  windows, 
attracted  many  an  admiring  gaze.  And  then  in  the 
less  pretentious  highways  and  byways,  in  the  market 
places  and  along  the  river  borders,  there  were 
always  alluring  scenes.  Then  there  were  the  old 
book-stalls,  and  the  evening  book  auctions,  the  lat- 
ter especially  commanding  a  full  share  of  atten- 
tion. One  in  particular,  on  the  north  side  of 
Chatham  square,  near  the  corner  of  Mott  street, 
served  frequently  to  stay  my  steps.  It  was  kept  by  an 
aged,  white-haired  man,  who  evidently  had  a  good 
knowledge  of  the  commercial  value  of  his  volumes, 
if  his  knowledge  did  not  extend  to  the  higher  value 
of  their  contents.  His  way  of  recommending  his 


98  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

books  was  original  and  often  interspersed  with  wit- 
ticisms and  sarcasms  such  as  kept  his  large  com- 
pany in  good  temper.  A  crowd  usually  gathered, 
as  the  room  was  on  the  lower  floor,  and  about  on  a 
level  with  the  sidewalk. 

The  temper  of  this  aged  auctioneer,  however, 
was  not  remarkably  even.  Sometimes  he  would 
get  excited  at  an  unseemly  remark  of  a  bidder, 
and  pour  forth  a  withering  volume  of  vituperation. 
At  another  time  he  would  fall  into  a  vein  of  pathos 
that  was  really  touching.  He  dressed  in  a  style 
older  than  his  apparent  age,  and  many  of  his  quaint 
expressions  seemed  to  belong  to  an  earlier  genera- 
tion. One  scene  in  that  well-remembered  room 
may  be  given. 

I  seem  now,  after  more  than  three  score  years, 
to  revisit  that  dingy  room,  lighted  by  two  or  three 
small  oil  lamps,  and  see  the  old  man  arise  at  his 
stand,  with  a  volume  in  his  hand. 

Auctioneer.  — Now,  my  friends,  you  see  this  big 
volume  ;  it  is  well  bound  and  perfect.  The  author 
(naming  him)  most  of  you  know.  He  is  the  best 
writer  in  New  York  ;  you  know  that.  And  this  is 
his  best  work.  There  never  was  a  better  book 
wrote  !  What  am  I  offered  for  it? 

Bidder.  —  Two  shillings  ! 

Auctioneer.  — Two  shillings  !  You  do  n't  mean 
it !  You  can  't  mean  it !  Just  reason  a  moment. 
It  is  not  enough  to  pay  for  the  midnight  oil  that 
lighted  the  author's  weary  eyes  while  composing  it. 
Think  of  the  brain-labor  spent  on  what  these  two 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  99 

covers  enclose.  And  above  all,  think  of  the  au- 
thor's little  children  crying  for  bread ;  put  to  bed, 
perhaps  this  very  night,  without  supper.  Think 
of  this,  some  of  you  who  have  children  in  your 
comfortable  homes,  and  see  if  you  can  't  squeeze 
out  another  shilling. 

Second  Bidder.  — (Drawing  his  coat  sleeve  across 
his  eyes) .  —  I  bid  three  shillings  ! 

Auctioneer.  —  Thank  you,  friend.  Three  shil- 
lings ;  three,  three,  three  shillings.  Quick  !  And 
down  it  goes  to  the  man  there  in  the  bob-tail  coat. 
You  Ve  got  a  bargain.  When  you  meet  the  author 
do  n't  tell  him  that  I  sold  you  one  of  his  books  at 
that  price,  or  I  shall  be  ashamed  to  meet  him. 


IN    PHILADELPHIA. 

IT  WAS  in  the  early  part  of  November,  1830, 
that  I  left  New  York  for  Philadelphia,  in  company 
with  Mr.  Edward  Stephens,  before  mentioned.  A 
little  steamer  named  the  Swan  took  us  from  a  pier 
near  the  Battery,  up  the  Raritan,  and  about  noon 
we  reached  New  Brunswick,  New  Jersey,  where 
we  took  a  stage  for  Trenton,  on  the  Delaware.  At 
the  latter  place  we  embarked  on  another  little  steamer 
for  Philadelphia.  It  was  a  delightful  afternoon, 
and  the  trip  down  the  Delaware  was  charming,  the 
scenery  all  along  displaying  the  varied  and  beauti- 
ful colors  of  autumn,  and  the  air  being  soft  and 
very  much  like  that  of  New  England  Indian  Sum- 
mer. 


IOO       -LEGACY  OF  AN  OCTOGENARIAN. 

The  boat  made  a  number  of  stops  at  the  settle- 
ments on  either  side.  At  Bordentown,  then  the 
residence  of  Joseph  Bonaparte,  ex-King  of  Spain, 
one  or  two  French  gentlemen  came  on  board,  but 
they  seemed  little  inclined  to  communicate  with  the 
other  passengers.  Then,  too,  as  we  neared  the 
city,  numbers  of  young  people  of  both  sexes,  pupils 
at  the  seminaries  that  here  and  there  nestled  in  the 
romantic  nooks,  were  waiting  at  the  rustic  landing 
places  to  take  passage  for  their  city  homes,  their 
merry  shoutings  adding  life  to  the  scene.  And 
now,  after  these  three  score  and  more  years,  were 
one  inclined  to  indulged  in  a  sentimental  strain,  he 
might  ask  of  old  Father  Time  what  has  been  the 
fate  of  those  who  formed  those  merry  groups. 
Most  of  them  have  long  since  .  surrendered  their 
lives ;  some  as  fathers,  mothers  and  grandparents  ; 
some  in  wealth  and  high  position ;  some  in  loneli- 
ness and  poverty. 

The  sun  had  set  before  we  came  in  sight  of 
Philadelphia.  And  when  the  city  did  appear  in 
view,  its  long  line  of  brilliant  lights  made  a  very 
striking  appearance.  The  evening  was  serene,  and 
a  bright  moon  shone  upon  the  placid  river  which 
was  alive  with  all  manner  of  water  craft  moving  in 
every  direction,  the  nautical  shouts  echoing  back 
from  the  far-away  hills. 

The  boat  threaded  its  way  to  the  landing  place  at 
the  foot  of  Chestnut  street,  and  Mr.  Stephens  and 
myself  were  soon  on  shore  seeking  means  to  appease 
our  appetites,  for  we  had  hardly  had  a  mouthful 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  IOI 

since  our  early  breakfast  in  New  York.  We  soon 
found  a  suitable  eating  place,  and  then  comforta- 
ble lodgings.  Before  retiring,  however,  we  were 
obliged  to  return  to  the  boat  for  our  luggage,  as 
she  was  to  proceed  on  her  return  trip  early  in  the 
morning,  in  season  to  land  the  pupils  on  time  at 
the  seminaries.  So  it  was  quite  late  when  we  found 
ourselves  snug  in  bed,  a  most  welcome  retreat  after 
the  fatigues  of  the  day.  But  we  had  seen  some- 
thing of  the  city  by  moonlight,  in  its  quiet  midnight 
slumber,  and  from  inquiring  our  way  hither  and 
thither  had  learned  that  never  yet  forgotten  couplet 
then  in  use  as  a  general  direction  —  applied  to  the 
parallel  streets  running  up  from  the  river  on  the 
right  and  left,  beginning  with  Walnut : 

"  Walnut,  Chestnut,  Spruce  and  Pine, 
Market,  Arch  and  Race  and  Vine." 

We  however  got  a  little  confused  about  the  last 
named  street,  which  was  the  very  one  we  most  de- 
sired to  find,  a  friend  having  urged  us  to  quarter 
with  him  there,  the  midnight  wanderers  of  whom 
we  inquired  almost  universally  calling  it  Wine. 

In  due  time,  the  next  morning,  Mr.  Stephens  and 
myself,  after  visiting  a  few  of  the  most  attractive 
places,  set  about  the  business  that  most  nearly  con- 
cerned our  personal  welfare,  namely,  the  procuring 
of  employment.  We  presently  found  an  office 
where  we  could  get  work  by  waiting  a  few  days,  as 
the  proprietor  expected  to  take  in  hand  one  or  two 
books  not  then  quite  ready.  This  did  not  exactly 
suit,  as  idleness  was  extremely  irksome  to  both  of 


IO2  .    LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

us.  We  were  not,  however,  destitute  of  money,  for 
I  had  about  me  as  much  as  two  hundred  dollars  of 
my  savings,  and  I  knew  Mr.  Stephens  had  a  sum 
fully  as  large. 

Continuing  our  pursuit  of  employment  for  several 
days  without  much  better  success,  we  began  to  grow 
impatient  —  a  little  homesick,  perhaps;  and  not 
doubting  that  we  could  return  to  New  York  and 
resume  our  old  situations,  we  were  not  long  in  deter- 
mining to  leave  Philadelphia  to  its  fate.  Mr. 
Stephens  made  up  his  mind  to  start  the  next  morn- 
ing. He  did  so  :  and  on  bidding  him  good-bye,  I 
banteringly  predicted  that  he  would  return  to  his 
old  situation  and  old  home,  soon  marry  Miss  Win- 
terbotham,  and  settle  down  in  becoming  quietude. 
And  in  a  few  months  all  that  came  to  pass.  It  was 
a  fortunate  union  ;  she  securing  a  high-principled, 
industrious,  and  every  way  respectable  husband, 
and  he  a  worthy,  affectionate,  and  truly  helpful 
wife.  For  many  years  we  met  as  frequently  as 
our  sundered  residences  and  different  callings  would 
permit,  and  I  always  found  them  enjoying  their 
merited  prosperity.  They  are  now  both  in  the  land 
whence  there  is  no  return.  Children  and  children's 
children  survive  that  virtuous  and  happy  couple  of 
early  friends. 

It  may  not  be  inappropriate  to  mention  that  one 
inducement  for  my  going  to  Philadelphia  at  that 
time  was  the  receiving  a  letter  from  a  young  friend 
with  whom  I  had  become  intimate  while  we  were 
boys  in  Salem.  He  was  one  of  the  Gazette  car- 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  IO3 

riers.  For  his  first  regular  employment  he  went 
into  the  apothecary  and  grocery  store  —  a  business 
combination  common  in  those  days  —  of  Andrew 
Morgan,  at  the  corner  of  Federal  and  North  streets. 
Thence  he  went  to  Boston,  into  the  apothecary  store 
of  Mr.  Whitwell,  on  Milk  street,  famous  as  the 
proprietor  of  a  popular  opodeldoc ;  and  from  there 
into  a  large  drug  house  in  New  York,  and  finally 
to  Philadelphia.  In  this  latter  city  he  was  at  this 
time  keeping  the  drug  store  of  a  man  whom  I  judged 
had  got  somewhat  "  above  his  business"  and  was 
anxious  to  sell  out  to  my  friend,  who  was  about  as 
desirous  to  purchase.  The  object  of  his  letter  was 
to  induce  me  to  go  into  the  purchase  with  him. 
But  after  looking  over  the  matter  and  realizing  that 
the  business  was  one  that  I  knew  nothing  about, 
the  venture  seemed  hazardous,  and  I  declined.  I 
am  uncertain,  now,  whether  or  not  he  made  the 
purchase.  Not  long  after  he  commenced  the  study 
of  medicine,  and  in  due  time  graduated  a  full- 
fledged  M.D.  He  too,  like  myself,  is  now  an  old 
man,  but  in  active  and  large  practice  as  a  physician. 
Not  having  the  same  sort  of  attraction  to  go  back 
to  New  York  that  Mr.  Stephens  had,  I  concluded 
to  go  directly  to  Boston,  where  I  felt  sure  I  could 
again  take  my  old  situation.  It  need  not  be  re- 
marked that  this  was  before  the  day  of  railroads  ; 
and  a  stage  passage  from  Philadelphia  to  Boston 
was  not  only  tedious  but  expensive ;  so  I  thought 
of  a  passage  by  water.  It  was  so  late  in  the  season 
that  storms  were  likely  to  prevail,  and  it  seemed, 


1 04  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

if  possible,  advisable  to  avoid  Cape  Cod.  In  pur- 
suance of  that  idea  I  made  inquiries  along  the 
wharves  and  found  a  schooner,  named  the  James 
Burrill,  that  was  presently  to  sail  for  Providence, 
Rhode  Island.  The  captain  said  he  would  take 
me  for  eight  dollars,  which  I  paid,  and  in  due  sea- 
son went  on  board,  thus  leaving  Philadelphia  as 
bare  in  treasure  as  I  entered,  excepting  a  handful 
of  withered  grass  that  I  plucked  from  the  grave  of 
Franklin,  by  climbing  over  the  churchyard  fence 
on  my  way  to  the  vessel ;  in  accomplishing  which 
feat  I  struck  my  knee  against  the  wall  with  such 
force  as  to  somewhat  lame  me  and  cause  a  good 
deal  of  pain.  The  result  of  the  accident  might 
have  been  serious  had  it  not  been  for  the  quiet  and 
repose  on  shipboard.  There  were  no  other  passen- 
gers, and  the  accommodations  were  far  from  luxu- 
rious ;  but  the  captain  and  mate  were  good-natured, 
often  jocose,  and  the  time  passed  by  no  means  disa- 
greeably. 

It  was  a  pleasant  morning  when  we  sailed,  but 
the  wind  was  light  and  the  chief  dependence  on  the 
tide.  A  few  hours,  however,  brought  a  material 
change  of  weather,  a  change  from  fair  to  foul. 
But  we  worked  slowly  along,  and  during  the  fore- 
noon of  the  next  day  reached  a  good  harbor  a  few 
miles  below  Newcastle.  There  the  captain  ordered 
the  anchor  to  be  dropped,  and  we  remained  weather- 
bound four  or  five  days.  Putting  out  again  at  the 
first  favorable  chance,  we  succeeded  in  getting  near 
Cape  May,  when  a  dreary  and  prolonged  northeast 


LEGACY    OF    AN   OCTOGENARIAN.  IO5 

storm  greeted  us  ;  and  when  that  abated  dense  fogs 
prevailed.  Almost  daily  attempts  were  made  to 
round  the  Cape,  but  continued  contrary  winds  and 
fogs  baffled  all  effort.  In  short  we  were  some 
eight  or  ten  days  kept  beating  back  and  forth  in 
the  Bay.  Happily  I  was  never  much  liable  to  sea- 
sickness and  so  suffered  very  little  from  that  cause. 
There  were  lulls  in  the  storm,  and  sometimes  for  a 
few  hours  the  fog  lifted  and  the  sun  vouchsafed  his 
cheering  presence  ;  but  such  intervals  were  of  short 
duration. 

When  the  weather  and  rolling  of  the  vessel  per- 
mitted I  paced  the  quarter-deck  for  exercise,  and 
for  amusement  watched  the  gambols  of  the  por- 
poises, which  were  numerous,  the  oystermen  who 
ventured  out  in  their  seemingly  frail  craft,  and  the 
numerous  wild  fowl  that  soared  and  screamed 
around.  And  for  the  more  sedate  hours  I  had  a 
set  of  Shakspeare,  which  had  been  given  me  by 
my  friend  in  Philadelphia,  and  a  few  other  books 
to  pore  over. 

And  here  it  seems  meet  to  note  a  little  incident 
that  many  years  after  brought  this  experience 
to  mind  with  the  clearness  of  a  well-delineated  pic- 
ture. In  1872,  forty  years  after  that  to  me  mem- 
orable voyage,  I  was  a  passenger  on  one  of  the 
big  steamers  of  the  Boston  and  Philadelphia  line. 
The  weather  was  beautiful,  and  as  we  were  speed- 
ing up  that  same  Delaware  Bay,  I  was  on  deck, 
gazing  all  about  to  see  if  I  could  recognize  any  of 
the  points  that  arrested  my  attention  during  that  first 


IO6  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

voyage.  The  Captain,  a  dignified,  white-haired 
man,  happened  to  be  standing  near,  and  I  related 
to  him  the  incidents  of  those  far-off  days  while 
beating  about  in  that  old  Providence  schooner. 
He  became  quite  interested. 

"  Do  you  remember  the  name  of  the  schooner?" 
he  asked. 

I  replied  that  I  could  not  at  that  moment  recall 
it,  but  could  give  it  if  I  were  at  home. 

"  Was  it  not  the  James  Bur  rill?"  he  queried. 

"  Yes,  yes,  it  was.  The  name  now  comes  fa- 
miliarly to  my  recollection,"  I  replied. 

"Well,"  said  he,  "I  was  one  of  the  crew  on 
board  the  old  schooner  on  that  very  voyage.  I  well 
remember  our  many  baffled  attempts  to  get  around 
Cape  May.  And  I  remember  you  perfectly  well." 

And  he  could,  I  think,  have  added  something 
about  how  I  used  to  pace  the  deck  in  my  impatience  ; 
how,  when  some  brief  interval  of  promising  weather 
occurred,  the  Captain  would  invite  me  to  go  ashore 
with  him  for  a  tramp  in  the  woods,  to  return,  per- 
haps, with  a  few  fresh  vegetables  and  a  little  fruit, 
to  which  was  possibly  added  a  pail  of  milk,  for  the 
refreshment  of  those  who  had  no  such  liberty. 
Nor  could  he  have  forgotten  how,  when  the  rainy 
night  closed  in  and  the  dead-lights  were  drawn, 
that  same  genial  Captain  would  summon  the  sable 
cook  into  the  little  cabin  to  cheer  our  spirits  with 
merry  tunes  upon  his  fiddle. 

Now,  to  go  back.  Finally,  after  beating  about 
Delaware  Bay  for  nearly  a  week,  we  one  afternoon 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  IO*J 

succeeded  in  getting  around  Cape  May.  The 
weather  continued  disagreeable,  though  being  now 
more  in  the  open  sea  most  dangers  could  be 
avoided.  It  was  Monday  when  the  Cape  receded 
from  our  view  astern ;  but  no  clear  weather  was 
vouchsafed  us  till  Thursday.  Then  the  sun  arose, 
bright  and  cheering.  And  our  spirits  arose  with  it, 
and  kept  on  till  meridian  height  was  reached.  We 
were  then  off  Block  Island,  whence,  after  a  pleas- 
ant run,  anchoring  for  the  night  in  the  river,  we 
reached  Providence  on  Friday  evening.  The  next 
morning  I  took  an  early  stage  for  Boston,  and  that 
night  supped  in  my  old  boarding  house  on  Wash- 
ington street. 


BACK    TO    BOSTON THENCE    TO    LYNN. 

IN  THE  following  week  after  my  return  to  Bos- 
ton from  New  York  and  Philadelphia,  I  was  rein- 
stated in  my  old  situation  in  the  "  Classic  office," 
School  street,  and  became  twenty-one  years  of  age 
on  the  next  Christmas  day. 

In  the  early  part  of  the  following  May,  business 
being  rather  slack,  I  took  the  opportunity  to  visit 
Lynn,  my  native  place,  thinking  to  remain  about  a 
week.  At  that  time,  1831,  there  were  three  print- 
ing offices,  if  such  they  could  be  called  in  compari- 
son with  the  establishments  of  the  present  day.  At 
each,  a  small  weekly  newspaper  of  partisan  char- 
acter, was  printed ;  one  Democratic,  one  National 
Republican,  and  the  other  Anti-Masonic.  The 


IO8  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

offices  were  small  and  ill-provided ;  the  work  cor- 
respondingly small  and  coarsely  executed.  Neither 
of  the  offices  required  more  than  two  workmen  to 
do  all  there  was  to  be  done  on  newspaper  and  jobs. 

Happening  in  the  Mirror  office  one  morning  I 
found  at  work  there  an  old  companion  from  the 
Salem  Gazette  office.  Mr.  Lummus,  the  propri- 
etor, was  quite  urgent  to  have  me  take  up  the  com- 
positor's stick  for  a  while,  and  as  my  visit  was 
already  beginning  to  be  a  little  wearisome,  I  con- 
sented. Presently  my  fellow-workman  announced 
his  determination  to  quit  Lynn,  and  in  a  sort  of 
non-resistant  way  I  continued  on.  And  thus  my 
visit  to  Lynn  for  a  week  or  so,  as  proposed,  has 
been  protracted  to  more  than  sixty  years,  barring  a 
few  short  intervals.  Should  I  now  conclude  to 
end  my  visit  and  return  to  Boston  I  could  not  re- 
sume my  old  situation,  for  the  "  Classic  office"  has 
long  since  disappeared.  And  what  is  most  touch- 
ing, I  do  not  know  of  a  single  living  one  besides 
myself  of  all  the  busy  ones  who  labored  there. 

Alonzo  Lewis,  poet  and  historian,  was  at  that 
time  editor  of  the  Mirror,  as  well  as  teacher  of  the 
Woodend  grammar  school.  I  saw  much  of  him 
and  listened  to  his  conversation  with  pleasure  and 
profit.  I  had,  however,  from  childhood  known 
him,  and  at  one  interval,  while  he  had  charge  of 
the  West  Lynn  grammar  school,  in  the  absence 
of  Master  Blanchard,  was  a  pupil  of  his. 

In  several  respects  my  situation  became  very 
pleasant.  I  loved  the  freedom  of  the  country  and 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  lOp 

the  scenes  among  which  I  had  rambled  in  earlier 
life,  and  soon  formed  acquaintances,  both  male  and 
female,  that  gave  zest  to  every  leisure  hour.  I 
agreed  to  work  for  seven  dollars  a  week,  which 
was  less  than  I  had  been  earning,  but  equalized  by 
the  lower  cost  of  living. 

It  was  not  customary  in  those  times  to  pay  an 
employe  who  was  under  age  full  wages,  there  be- 
ing about  one-third  difference  in  the  prices,  whether 
the  work  was  done  by  the  piece  or  week.  When 
I  first  went  to  Boston  I  worked  by  the  piece,  but 
was  soon  asked  to  go  on  by  the  week,  and  did  so, 
first  at  six  dollars,  then  at  six-and-a-half ;  and  when 
I  reached  the  position  of  foreman,  being  then  about 
nineteen  years  old,  at  eight  dollars.  These  were 
fair  wages  for  the  time,  whatever  compositors  of 
this  day  may  think.  Money,  however,  then  had 
greater  purchasing  power.  In  common  book  work, 
when  done  by  the  piece,  the  full  journeyman  price 
was  twenty-five  cents  per  thousand  ems.  And  it 
would  have  been  a  slow  workman  who  could  not 
complete  six  thousand  ems  per  day.  But  there 
was  liability  to  lose  more  or  less  time,  chiefly  by 
waiting  for  letter,  most  offices  then  having  but 
small  fonts. 

As  to  the  cost  of  living,  that  bore  about  the  same 
proportion  to  wages  then  received  that  the  work- 
man's pay  at  this  time  bears  to  the  present  cost  of 
living.  Good,  respectable  board  in  unexceptionable 
neighborhoods  could  be  had  for  two  dollars  and  a 
half  per  week.  And  boarding,  in  those  days,  in- 


IIO  .      LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

eluded  lodging ;  everything,  in  short,  but  washing, 
and  sometimes  even  that.  There  was  not  much 
difference  between  Boston  and  New  York,  in  these 
respects.  As  late  as  1842,  in  the  latter  city  I 
boarded  on  Broadway,  opposite  Bowling  Green, 
for  three  dollars  per  week.  There  were  at  that 
time  a  number  of  good  boarding  houses  thereabout 
and  nearer  the  Battery,  wrhose  places  are  now 
occupied  by  towering  warehouses  and  other  busi- 
ness structures.  Of  course  there  were  high-priced 
accommodations  to  be  had  in  all  directions ;  but  I 
am  now  speaking  of  the  great  class  who  are  de- 
pendent on  their  daily  exertions  for  support.  I 
remember  a  genteel-appearing  and  boastfully-talk- 
ing man  who  boarded  with  us  there  on  Broadway, 
who  had  accommodations  for  which  he  agreed  to 
pay  some  five  times  as  much  as  most  of  us.  He 
seemed  very  polite  and  friendly,  but  suddenly  dis- 
appeared, one  rainy  morning,  as  the  landlady  in 
sorrow  informed  me,  owing  his  whole  month's 
board,  and  carrying  off  her  best  umbrella  which  he 
had  borrowed. 

As  to  the  price  of  clothing  in  those  days,  it  was 
not  much  if  any  cheaper  than  at  present,  and  there 
was  perhaps  less  opportunity  for  the  exercise  of 
economy,  as  there  was  not  such  variety  to  choose 
from.  Most  people,  however,  did  not  dress  in  so 
expensive  style  as  they  now  do. 

Travelling  was  too  expensive  to  be  unnecessarily 
indulged  in,  not  only  in  the  matter  of  fares,  but 
also  in  loss  of  time.  In  the  rapid  and  cheap  con- 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  Ill 

veyances  of  the  present  day,  it  is  often  better  econ- 
omy to  ride  than  walk ;  but  in  those  times  foot 
service  was  the  great  dependence.  It  seems,  on 
the  whole,  questionable  whether  the  modern  facili- 
ties for  travel  are  beneficial  to  a  great  many  of  the 
rank  and  file  of  the  people,  those  who  are  inclined 
to  be  ever  on  the  wing.  True,  they  gather  odds 
and  ends  of  every  kind  of  knowledge,  but  pay  for 
it  by  the  expenditure  of  means  that  sometimes 
might  better  be  applied  to  home  studies  and  home 
comforts. 

Though  the  amount  of  my  wages  at  the  Mirror 
office  was  satisfactory,  the  payment,  or  rather  non- 
payment, was  not  always  so,  for  Mr.  Lummus,  with 
his  unthrifty  ways,  was  not  a  prompt  paymaster. 
But  he  was  intelligent,  companionable  and  good- 
hearted,  insomuch  that  he  was  generally  much 
liked.  Having  given  a  pretty  full  account  of  him 
and  his  office  in  the  History  of  Lynn,  1865  edition, 
nothing  further  is  required  here. 

Time  passed  on  till  the  close  of  the  winter  of 
1831,  when  Mr.  Lummus  announced  that  he  could 
no  longer  proceed  with  his  business  —  had  got 
to  the  end  of  his  rope,  as  he  expressed  it.  He 
was  then  owing  me  a  sum  which  I  could  not 
well  afford  to  lose,  and  which  he  was  very  anxious 
that  I  should  not.  So  he  urged  me  to  purchase 
the  office  which,  at  a  fair  valuation,  was  worth  but 
about  two  hundred  dollars,  the  press  being  a  hired 
one,  and  I  had  saved  more  than  enough  for  the 
purchase.  The  office  was  bought,  the  Mirror 


112  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

stopped,  and  early  in  the  spring  I  commenced  the 
Weekly  Messenger. 

It  was  on  Saturday  morning,  April  14,  1832,  that 
the  first  number  of  the  Messenger  appeared.  It 
was  a  four-page  sheet  with  five  columns  to  a  page, 
each  page  measuring  twelve  and  a  half  by  sixteen 
and  a  half  inches  of  printed  surface.  The  type 
was  chiefly  long  primer.  It  was  certainly  a  small 
paper  compared  with  the  sheets  of  this  date,  sixty 
years  subsequent,  but  was  as  large  as  any  ever  be- 
fore published  in  Lynn.  Of  the  editorial  matter  I 
may  not  further  speak  than  to  say  that  as  a  whole 
the  paper  was  favorably  received.  Greater  age  — 
for  I  was  then  but  twenty-two— and  more  experience 
—  for  it  was  my  first  venture  as  editor — would  have 
produced  something  better ;  yet  I  had  sufficient 
confidence  in  my  ability  to  carry  on  the  venture, 
feeling  assured  of  the  assistance,  if  any  were  needed, 
of  the  best  writers  among  us.  Alonzo  Lewis,  Enoch 
Curtin,  Lawyer  Trevett,  Lawyer  Gates,  Stephen 
Oliver,  senior,  and  several  other  experienced  writers 
on  local  affairs,  furnished  contributions.  And  my 
steadfast  friend  Lummus  frequently  handed  in  the 
"  nubs  "  and  "  squizzles  "  as  he  called  them,  which 
he  picked  up  in  his  rambles  about  town.  "  Coun- 
sellor Gill,"  before  spoken  of,  who  was  then  en- 
gaged on  the  Boston  Post,  I  remember  furnished  a 
good  article  for  my  first  number.  The  subscription 
price  was  two  dollars  per  year  ;  and  considering  all 
things,  I  felt  that  the  subscribers  got  their  money's 
worth.  Newspapers  in  those  days,  out  of  the  large 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  113 

cities,  and  with  scarcely  an  exception  within,  were 
published  on  the  subscription  plan. 

With  one  assistant  it  was  found  quite  easy  to  do 
all  the  work  on  the  paper  - —  editing,  reporting,  and 
printing  —  as  well  as  all  the  job  work  that  came 
in  ;  and  that  with  but  little  evening  work.  But  no 
dawdling  intervals  could  be  indulged  in.  Fortu- 
nately the  services  of  a  young  man  who  had  served 
with  me  in  the  Salem  Gazette  office — John  F. 
Ropes  —  were  secured,  and  being  a  prompt,  ac- 
commodating fellow,  we  had  everything  pass  along 
smoothly.  He  was  industrious,  and  on  any  emer- 
gency ready  to  do  his  part,  night  or  day.  His 
wages  were  six  dollars  a  week,  for  he  was  a  little 
under  age.  In  passing,  it  may  be  remarked,  that 
some  years  afterward  he  became  publisher  of  a 
daily  paper  in  New  York  city. 

Enterprise  and  ambition  in  the  newspaper  line 
wrere  not  entirely  unknown  in  those  days.  I  very 
well  remember  our  efforts  to  lay  before  the  readers 
of  the  Messenger,  at  the  earliest  moment,  the  mes- 
sage of  President  Jackson  to  Congress  at  the  com- 
mencement of  the  session,  December,  1832.  It 
was  a  long  document,  occupying  a  page  and  a  half 
of  our  paper.  This,  it  will  be  borne  in  mind,  was 
before  the  day  of  railroads  or  the  telegraph.  A  copy 
of  the  message  was  brought  to  Lynn  by  a  Thursday 
evening  stage,  and  we  determined  to  astonish  the 
people  by  issuing  the  paper  by  daylight  on  Friday 
morning,  anticipating  by  a  full  day  the  regular  time 
of  publication,  and  with  the  message  all  unshorn. 


114  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

Mr.  Lummus  happened  to  come  in  and  volunteered 
to  assist ;  but  he  had  hardly  set  a  stickful  when  he 
was  struck  by  some  new  notion  and  dodged  off. 
The  assistance  of  John  B.  Tolman,  of  the  Record, 
was  then  sought,  and  he  agreed  to  set  up  in  his 
office  a  certain  portion  of  the  message.  The  offices 
were  some  two  miles  apart ;  the  Messenger  in  Fed- 
eral street,  and  the  Record  in  Union. 

Mr.  Ropes  and  myself  had  our  part  in  type  by 
midnight,  and  then  hastened  to  the  Record  office 
for  Mr.  Tolman's.  We  found  the  office  locked 
and  no  one  about.  After  fumbling  round  a  while 
we  found  the  key,  and  were  much  disappointed  in 
finding  that  very  little  had  been  done.  Off  went 
our  coats,  and  in  due  time  the  whole  was  completed. 
Two  o'clock  in  the  morning  found  Mr.  Ropes  and 
myself,  each  with  a  galley  of  matter  on  his  arm, 
speeding  the  whole  distance  from  Union  street  to 
Federal.  Fortunately  it  was  calm  and  bright  moon- 
light, though  cold.  The  feat  was  accomplished 
without  the  breaking  down  of  a  line ;  and  the 
press  was  in  operation  before  the  stars  had  disap- 
peared. 

The  Messenger  was  published  but  one  year,  for 
though  it  seemed  not  improbable  that  it  might  ulti- 
mately prove  profitable,  it  was  almost  certain  that 
some  years  of  industrious  and  exacting  application 
would  intervene.  The  ambition  and  impatience  of 
youth  have  much  to  do  with  shaping  future  destinies. 
On  squaring  up  accounts  it  was  found  that  sufficient 
had  been  realized  to  meet  all  office  expenses,  and 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  115 

leave  enough  for  the  reasonable  support  of  a  young, 
unmarried  man. 

I  subsequently  had  two  or  three  other  ventures 
in  the  newspaper  line  in  Lynn ;  but  of  them  it  is 
needless  here  to  speak  ;  and  no  doubt  I  have  had  my 
share  of  expressions  of  approval  and  disapproval. 
But  mere  praise  is  a  barren  commodity,  and  animad- 
version, though  sometimes  beneficial,  is  apt  to 
unduly  annoy  the  unseasoned  writer.  Those  who 
have  presided  over  the  columns  of  a  newspaper 
know  well  how  to  estimate  compliments  as  well  as 
criticisms. 

AFTER  the  discontinuance  of  the  Messenger  I 
opened  a  book  and  stationery  store  in  the  immedi- 
ate vicinity  of  Lynn  Hotel,  which  was  then  the 
most  active  business  part  of  the  town,  and  for  a  few 
years  continued  in  the  line ;  not,  however,  at  much 
profit,  for,  not  having  been  bred  to  the  business,  I 
labored  under  many  disadvantages,  and  gained 
little  above  a  bare  living  and  experience.  I  bought 
out  the  stock  in  trade  of  Mr.  John  P.  Jewett,  who 
had  been  here  a  year  or  two.  He  came  from  Sa- 
lem, and  kept  on  hand  a  stock  of  about  the  value 
of  three  thousand  dollars.  He  left  Lynn,  after 
selling  out  to  me,  and  subsequently  became  quite  a 
noted  publisher.  When  here,  he  was  young,  en- 
ergetic, and  ambitious,  and  the  latter  traits  never 
forsook  him.  He  was  a  very  decided  abolitionist, 
and  never  concealed  his  opinions.  Perhaps  the 
world  would  never  have  seen  that  famous  book, 


Il6  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

"  Uncle  Tom's  Cabin,"  had  not  Mr.  Jewett  taken 
such  a  deep  interest  in  the  anti-slavery  cause.  I 
have  been  told  that  he  saw  some  of  the  early  chap- 
ters, as  they  appeared  in  one  of  the  anti-slavery 
papers,  and  being  struck  by  their  force  and  style, 
sought  the  author  and  made  arrangements  to  bring 
the  work  out  in  book  form. 

I  still  retained  my  little  printing  office,  and  had 
some  jobbing  done  ;  but  became  finally  dispossessed 
of  it  in  an  almost  amusing  way.  I  was  for  a  short 
time  stopping  in  Salem,  when  suddenly  a  young 
man  one  day  made  his  appearance  in  my  room, 
and  asked  if  I  did  not  own  a  printing  office  in 
Lynn  that  I  would  like  to  dispose  of.  I  replied 
that  I  had  a  small  office  there,  and  would  sell  if  a 
suitable  offer  were  made,  and  named  a  price  be- 
low which  I  should  not  desire  to  sell. 

"  Cheap  enough,"  said  he,  "I  '11  take  it.  Make 
out  your  bill  now,  and  I  '11  go  over  to-morrow  morn- 
ing and  take  possession." 

His  very  eagerness  of  course  put  me  on  my 
guard. 

"  Have  you  the  money  with  you?  "  I  asked. 

"  No  ;  but  I  '11  pay  this  week." 

"But  you  haven't  seen  the  office  and  are  for 
making  a  blind  bargain.  Go  over  and  examine  it, 
then  come  with  the  money,  and  we  will  see  what 
had  best  be  done." 

He  did  go,  and  soon  again  made  his  appearance, 
announcing  that  he  was  well  satisfied  with  the  office 
and  the  price,  and  added  that  he  would  go  over,  take 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  Iiy 

possession,  and  go  right  to  work.  I  told  him  he 
must  not  do  that,  till  he  had  paid.  There  were 
one  or  two  more  conferences,  and  finally  I  set  a 
day  for  the  termination  of  the  negotiation,  telling 
him  that  if  he  then  came  with  the  money  he 
could  have  a  bill  of  sale  and  take  possession ; 
otherwise  we  would  let  the  whole  matter  drop. 
Then  he  asked  if  a  good  endorsed  note  would  be 
accepted,  and  was  told  that  it  would. 

When  the  day  arrived,  much  to  my  astonishment 
he  appeared  with  a  note  endorsed  by  some  twenty 
of  the  most  substantial  men  in  town,  any  one  of 
whom  would  have  been  accepted  alone ;  among 
them  being  Jonathan  Bacheller,  Josiah  Newhall, 
Isaiah  Breed  and  David  Taylor.  What  induce- 
ment he  offered  for  such  names  I  never  knew,  but 
supposed  something  of  a  political  nature.  Thus 
passed  from  my  hands  the  old  Mirror  office,  the 
first  printing  establishment  ever  in  Lynn.  The 
purchaser  forthwith  commenced  a  political  paper 
which  after  a  sickly  existence  of  some  months  be- 
came numbered  with  those  that  were.  He  was  a 
young  man  with  little  experience  or  discretion,  but 
could  use  the  pen  with  considerable  facility,  though 
not  with  much  judgment.  Yet  he  was  by  no 
means  without  good  points  ;  and  as  I  heard  of  him 
twenty-five  years  ago,  had  attained  a  fair  position 
in  the  public  service. 


THERE  are  tender  episodes  in  the  life  of  every 
young  person,  whether  of  the  gentler  or  ruder  sex. 


Il8       -LEGACY  OF  AN  OCTOGENARIAN. 

One  who  is  insensible  to  the  natural  feelings  and 
inclinations  is  diseased,  or  a  prodigy,  or,  to  use  a 
stronger  term,  a  monster.  I  suppose  my  share  of 
experiences  was  about  equal  to  the  general  aver- 
age, but  they  were  passed  through  without  any 
extraordinary  result.  One  incident,  however,  that 
gave  me  considerable  disturbance  at  the  time, 
I  may  be  pardoned  for  relating,  though  I  do  so 
with  hesitancy  on  account  of  its  personal  bearing. 

A  little  more  than  sixty  years  ago,  as  I  write  this 
in  1893,  I  \vas  well  acquainted  with  an  estimable 
young  lady,  saw  her  frequently,  and  much  enjoyed 
her  society,  she  was  so  bright  and  sympathetic. 
But  my  admiration  ended  there,  for  I  never  indulged 
the  thought  of  matrimonial  connection,  and  supposed 
she  stood  in  the  same  attitude  towards  me.  Indeed, 
to  speak  plainly,  there  seemed  to  be  reasons  why 
an  offer  on  my  part,  if  made,  would  be  hardly 
likely  to  meet  with  a  favorable  response.  There 
was  another  young  man  of  our  acquaintance,  of 
good  character  and  fair  prospects,  who  also  much 
enjoyed  her  society,  but  whose  aspirations  were 
quite  different  from  mine  ;  in  short,  I  may  as  well 
say,  he  was  deeply  in  love  with  her.  Knowing  im- 
position he  was  very  free  in  speaking  of  his  own 
impressions  and  hopes.  In  short  he  made  me  his 
confidant.  I  was  glad  to  notice  the  progress  of 
what  seemed  to  be  a  reciprocal  attachment,  and 
from  time  to  time  observed  with  much  interest  the 
apparently  smooth  running  of  what  certainly  seemed 
a  course  of  true  love. 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  lip 

One  day  M.  came  to  me  and  spoke  freely  of  his 
ardent  affection,  but,  as  I  presume  is  common  in 
such  cases,  expressed  doubts  as  to  what  response 
would  be  made  to  a  direct  proposal.  And  he  en- 
treated me,  as  a  friend  to  both  parties,  to  endeavor 
to  ascertain  the  probabilities  in  his  case.  I  told  him 
it  was  rather  a  delicate  mission  that  he  would  im- 
pose on  me,  but  that,  nevertheless,  I  would  do  my 
best  to  serve  him,  and  perhaps  by  the  same  token 
do  a  happy  thing  for  her  ;  adding  that  I  should  meet 
her  at  a  friend's  house  that  very  evening,  and  would 
seek  an  opportunity  to  do  what  I  could  to  further 
his  desire. 

I  met  the  young  lady  as  contemplated,  and  it  fell 
to  my  lot  to  wait  upon  her  home.  It  was  a  bright, 
moonlight  night,  and  rather  late  when  we  left. 
Under  pretense  of  enjoying  the  charms  of  the  night, 
I  induced  her  to  take  a  rather  long,  round-about 
way  to  her  home,  though,  as  may  be  imagined,  my 
object  rather  was  to  gain  time  for  the  execution  of 
my  commission.  It  was  harder  than  I  anticipated 
to  open  the  subject ;  but  usually  one  will  bravely 
meet  the  inevitable.  And  so,  prolonging  our  agree- 
able walk  along  the  now  silent  street,  the  diplomatic 
venture  was  entered  upon,  and  everything  I  said 
seemed  most  graciously  received,  insomuch  that 
when  I  left  her  at  the  door  I  felt  sufficiently  bold 
to  ask,  in  pretty  direct  terms,  whether  if  an  offer 
of  heart  and  hand  should  be  made,  a  favorable  re- 
sponse might  be  hoped  for.  Her  eyes  slightly 
dropped,  and  with  an  arch,  half  equivocal  look  she 


120  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

replied,  "  I  think  it  would,"  and  instantly  disap- 
peared. That  seemed  enough.  I  was  quite  elated. 
And  when  M.  came  in  the  morning,  anxious  to  as- 
certain the  result  of  my  mediation,  I  was  glad  to 
congratulate  him  on  the  fair  prospect,  and  assure 
him  that  everything  seemed  favorable  for  the  con- 
summation of  his  heart's  desire.  His  spirits  rose  to 
a  high  pitch,  and  he  declared  that  no  time  should 
be  lost  in  placing  his  fate  at  her  disposal. 

A  short  time  after,  I  saw  him  and  was  surprised 
to  find  him  greatly  depressed.  On  my  eagerly  in- 
quiring what  the  matter  was,  he  despondingly  re- 
plied that  he  had  ventured  to  formally  urge  his  suit 
and  —  and — had  been  rejected.  I  told  him  that 
was  to  me  a  most  unaccountable  turn  of  affairs,  in 
view  of  what  she  had  so  lately  said  to  me.  "  Ah, 
yes,"  he  gloomily  responded,  "  and  there  was  just 
where  the  misunderstanding  came  in.  She  thought 
all  the  time  you  were  speaking  for  me,  that  you 
were  speaking  for  yourself  !  " 

I  was  astonished  at  this,  and  sincerely  regretted 
my  unskillful  intercession.  The  best  explanations 
I  could  make  were  offered  ;  but  my  position  was 
awkward  enough.  I  did  not,  however,  seem  to 
lose  the  confidence  or  esteem  of  either  of  those 
young  friends.  The  young  man  was  in  a  few  years 
after  settled  in  an  honorable  profession,  and  jour- 
neying on  with  a  worthy  conjugal  companion.  And 
the  young  lady  passed  a  life  of  quiet,  single-blessed- 
ness. Both  have  now,  for  years,  been  sleeping 
beneath  the  green  sods  of  the  cemetery. 


LEGACY    9F    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  121 

I  was  entirely  unsuspicious  of  the  feelings  of  the 
young  lady  towards  me,  having  no  thought  that  I 
was  regarded  with  more  favor  than  others  of  her 
acquaintance.  I  do  not  know  what  might  have 
happened  had  I  been  aware  of  her  sentiments. 
Anyway,  she  must  have  thought  I  had  rather  an 
odd  way  of  proposing. 

There  is,  perhaps,  no  value  to  this  rehearsal,  fur- 
ther than  it  may  induce  in  some  young  heart  a  reali- 
zation that  too  much  maiden  shyness  and  reserve, 
in  such  affairs,  do  not  always  lead  to  the  most  satis- 
factory results. 

To  THE  use  of  intoxicating  liquors  I  was  never 
inclined,  which  is  almost  a  wonder,  considering  the 
customs  of  the  time  when  I  was  a  youth.  Few 
were  the  workshops  that  did  not  have  the  daily- 
replenished  jug,  and  few  the  places  of  any  sort, 
where  friends  congregated,  that  were  not  well  sup- 
plied with  the  means  of  indulgence.  The  elder 
man  tossed  off  his  glass  with  the  sang-froid  of  an 
exemplar,  and  the  younger  with  the  air  of  emula- 
tive manliness.  It  was,  however,  my  good  fortune 
not  to  be  so  constantly  exposed  to  temptations  and 
perils  that  lie  in  that  direction  as  some  of  my  as- 
sociates, who  were  seen  in  after  years  melancholy 
wrecks  along  the  highway  of  life.  Yet,  to  look 
back,  it  does  seem  a  little  remarkable  that  I  so 
safely  escaped ;  for  when  at  the  susceptible  age  of 
eighteen  and  thereabout  I  found  myself  in  Boston, 
very  much  my  own  master,  and  amid  a  circle  of 


122  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

associates,  many  of  whom  were  ardent  votaries  of 
the  amusements  and  more  or  less  questionable  en- 
tertainments of  young  life. 

A  little  incident  that  shows  the  temptation,  in  one 
direction  at  least,  to  which  young  men  in  large 
cities  were,  and  still  are  exposed,  and  at  the  same 
time  affords  assurance  that  multitudes  have  power 
to  escape  a  threatened  evil,  may  be  given  here. 
With  two  or  three  young  fellows  I  was  accustomed 
about  every  evening  after  work  hours  to  spend  a 
while  in  the  counting  room  of  a  drug  store  on  Milk 
street,  in  which  one  of  our  number  was  clerk.  And 
often  on  the  way  home  we  would  stop  at  the  restau- 
rant under  old  Julian  Hall,  at  the  corner  of  Con- 
gress street,  and  call  for  a  plate  of  oysters  or  other 
refreshment,  "to  be  washed  down,"  as  the  phrase 
was,  by  a  glass  of  some  kind  of  spirituous  liquor  ;  none 
of  us,  however,  drinking  to  excess.  The  practice 
continued  for  some  time ;  but  late  on  a  certain 
moonlight  night,  as  three  of  us  came  out  of  the 
saloon,  one,  with  some  gravity  remarked,  "  I  do 
not  know  how  it  is  with  you,  but  I  begin  to  feel  as 
if  I  must  stop  here  every  night."  A  brief  discus- 
sion followed  this  suggestion,  that  dangerous  habits 
might  be  forming  ;  and  it  was  promptly  agreed  that 
our  last  visit  to  the  saloon  had  been  made.  And 
the  agreement  was  faithfully  kept.  One  of  the 
three  was  for  many  years  a  highly  respectable 
Unitarian  clergyman,  but  now,  1893,  a  skilled  phv- 
sician  in  large  practice  ;  another  by  mid-life  became 
commander  of  an  East  Indiaman ;  and  the  third  is 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  123 

the  writer  of  this.  Possibly  some  young  man  may 
herein  find  a  useful  hint.  Had  we  persisted  in  that 
evidently  growing  habit,  who  can  tell  what  the  re- 
sult would  have  been.  As  I  look  back  through  the 
intervening  three  score  and  five  years,  and  think 
what  I  may  have  escaped,  I  cannot  avoid  feeling 
an  exhilaration  much  more  wholesome  and  satisfy- 
ing than  ever  resulted  from  those  potations. 

But  it  is  common  for  us  New  Englanders  to  cal- 
culate the  cost  of  things  on  a  pecuniary  basis.  Now 
what  does  one  save  by  abstaining  from  the  use  of 
spirituous  liquors  for  three  score  and  five  years?  It 
is  not  easy  for  one  not  in  the  habit  of  such  use  to 
come  to  an  exact  conclusion.  Of  course  some  must 
have  their  two-dollar  bottle  once  a  day,  if  not  often- 
er :  and  multitudes  of  the  less  able  will  have  all 
they  can  get,  more  or  less.  But  take  one  of  mod- 
erate means  and  not  excessive  craving.  He  would 
probably  expend  on  an  average  not  less  than  a  dol- 
lar and  a  half  per  week  ;  possibly  not  all  to  appease 
the  demands  of  his  own  appetite ;  but  convivial 
habits  lead  to  the  "  treating  "  of  cronies.  Now  that 
would  amount  to  seventy-eight  dollars  per  year, 
and  for  sixty-five  years,  to  five  thousand  and  seventy 
dollars ;  to  say  nothing  of  the  larger  amount  that 
would  accrue  by  way  of  interest.  It  is  unnecessary 
to  comment  on  this,  as  anyone  can  ask  himself  if 
the  given  sum,  with  the  interest  accumulated  by  the 
way,  would  not  be  poorly  spent  in  the  purchase  of 
trembling  limbs  and  ever  unsatisfied  appetite. 


124  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

NOR  did  the  writer  ever  contract  the  habit  of  using 
tobacco  in  any  shape  —  chewing,  snuffing,  or  smok- 
ing. These  have  their  votaries  in  all  classes,  and  the 
epithet,  uncleanly,  is  applicable  to  each.  Whether 
my  abstinence  was  attributable  to  natural  distaste  or 
sickening  experience  I  cannot  say.  My  first,  and 
about  only  attempt  at  chewing,  was  when  a  very 
small  boy.  Getting  hold  of  a  plug  left  within  reach, 
I  bit  off  a  generous  fragment,  as  I  had  seen  men 
do,  began  masticating,  and  no  doubt  swallowed  a 
quantity  of  the  nauseating  saliva,  if  not  some  of 
the  more  substantial  part  of  the  quid.  The  result 
may  be  imagined.  What  the  final  effect  would 
have  been  had  not  the  young  stomach  presently  re- 
lieved itself  of  the  offensive  burden  by  the  ejecting 
means  which  nature  kindly  provides,  I  do  not  know. 

The  first  remembered  attempt  at  smoking  was 
when  a  pupil  at  Master  Blanchard's  school,  in  West 
Lynn,  in  or  about  1816.  One  day,  during  recess, 
some  boy  had  found  means  to  procure  a  ' '  long-nine  " 
cigar ;  and  with  it  a  series  of  wonderful  experi- 
ments was  attempted.  When  my  turn  came,  I  drew 
my  mouth  full  of  smoke,  closed  it  tight,  and  also 
held  my  nose  with  a  tight  grasp ;  all  in  the  effort 
to  make  the  smoke  find  its  way  out  through  the 
ears.  But  all  at  once  I  became  entirely  oblivious, 
and  knew  nothing  till  I  recovered  my  senses  under 
a  vigorous  stream  pouring  upon  my  bare  head  from 
the  old  town  pump  near  the  hotel.  The  boys, 
thinking  I  must  be  dying  when  I  fell,  had  dragged 
me  all  the  way  to  the  pump  and  were  trying  their 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  125 

best  to  resuscitate  me.  Such  experience  was  per- 
haps enough  to  deter  me  from  the  manly  accom- 
plishment of  smoking. 

While  a  young  man  in  Boston,  almost  every  one 
of  my  associates  was  addicted  to  the  use  of  tobacco. 
One  of  my  intimates  dealt  in  imported  cigars,  and 
occasionally  urged  a  bunch  of  "genuine  Cubas " 
upon  me ;  but  I  could  never  make  a  better  use  of 
them  than  distribute  them  among  my  less  fortunate 
friends. 

No  doubt  abstinence  from  the  use  of  intoxicants 
and  tobacco  sometimes  kept  me  from  objectionable 
company,  and  sometimes  from  places  where  worse 
habits  were  liable  to  be  contracted.  And  then  the 
saving,  in  a  pecuniary  way,  by  the  non-use  of 
tobacco,  as  well  as  the  abstinence  from  pernicious 
drink,  was  considerable. 


THE  general  good  health  that  I  have  enjoyed  for 
a  large  portion  of  my  life,  next  to  the  inheritance 
of  a  naturally  sound  constitution  and  absence  of 
excesses,  is  doubtless  in  a  great  degree  to  be  attrib- 
uted to  continued  fondness  for  out-door  exercise. 
From  early  childhood  I  loved  to  roam  in  the  fields 
and  woods,  and  upon  the  shores  in  summer,  and  to 
join  in  all  the  boyish  winter  sports ;  and  until  ad- 
vanced life  was  much  of  a  pedestrian.  While  yet 
a  boy  in  Salem  I  used  frequently  to  walk  over  to 
Lynn  and  back,  the  same  day.  And  when  a  young 
man  in  Boston,  often  on  a  pleasant  Sunday  morning 


126      -LEGACY  OF  AX  OCTOGENARIAN. 

I  went  out  to  Lynn  on  foot,  and  at  evening  returned 
in  like  manner.  The  cost  of  riding,  before  the  day 
of  railroads,  was  an  item  to  be  seriously  considered 
by  one  whose  purse  was  not  well  filled.  I  always 
found  that  walking,  besides  mere  physical  exercise, 
was  most  valuable  as  a  mental  stimulant. 

The  business  men  of  this  day  might  well  be  as- 
tonished at  the  pedestrian  feats  of  those  of  old. 
The  shoe  "bosses"  of  Lynn,  for  instance,  were 
wont  to  undertake  such  expeditions  as  would,  to 
most  of  the  "  manufacturers"  of  the  present  day, 
not  only  appear  insupportably  laborious  but  decid- 
edly undignified.  Oftentimes  they  would  walk 
back  from  Salem  at  night,  with  a  side  of  leather 
on  the  shoulder,  having  walked  over  in  the  morning 
and  peddled  shoes  during  the  day.  The  healthy 
human  frame  is  capable  of  far  greater  endurance 
than  many  imagine.  The  results  of  habit  in  this 
direction  are  surprising.  The  habits  of  a  commu- 
nity frequently  spring  from  necessity  ;  and  after  the 
necessity  ceases  to  exist  and  has  passed  out  of  mind, 
people  look  back  and  wonder  that  such  laborious 
and  absurd  habits  should  ever  have  been  formed. 
Few  of  us  can  realize  what  may  be  accomplished 
by  persistent  will.  I  once  knew  a  middle-aged 
woman,  living  in  Marblehead,  who  sometimes  of  a 
morning  walked  to  Boston,  did  her  shopping,  and 
walked  home  at  night  carrying  her  bundle  of  pur- 
chases, making  a  distance  of  not  less  than  thirty 
miles  besides  her  perambulations  in  the  city.  What 
lady  in  this  day  of  grace  would  accomplish  such  a 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  127 

feat,  even  with  the  incentive  of  materials  for  a  new 
dress  and  new  bonnet  enwrapped  in  the  bundle  ? 

I  once  asked  the  carrier  of  a  daily  newspaper, 
knowing  he  had  been  formerly  engaged  in  employ- 
ment tha't  kept  him  sitting  most  of  the  time,  how 
he  bore  the  fatigue  of  his  daily  round.  He  an- 
swered that  at  first  his  new  vocation  was  excessively 
wearying,  and  for  some  time  he  feared  that  he  would 
be  obliged  to  give  up  his  job.  "  But  now,"  said  he, 
cheerfully,  "  I  like  it,  and  can  walk  my  daily  round 
of  twenty  miles  with  the  greatest  ease.  And  what 
is  more,  I  sometimes,  after  getting  through,  walk 
into  Boston  and  out;  but  that  makes  a  late  bed- 
time, and  I  cannot  do  it  often.  A  man  when  he 
gets  used  to  it  can  saw  wood  all  day ;  and  why 
shouldn't  he  get  used  to  walking  all  day?"  A 
vigorous  walk  often  oils  up  the  thinking  ma- 
chinery. 

I  believe  physiologists  say  that  walking,  horse- 
back riding,  and  sawing  wood,  are  among  the  best 
kinds  of  exercise.  And  it  may  be  added  that  work- 
ing at  the  hand  printing-press  is  very  much  like 
sawing  wood  in  muscular  action.  Mr.  Badger, 
who  many  years  ago  established  in  New  York  the 
excellent  paper  known  as  Badger's  Weekly  Mes- 
senger, by  close  application  to  literary  and  seden- 
tary pursuits,  so  injured  his  health,  and  so  com- 
pletely ran  down,  that  he  was  obliged  to  retire.  I 
have  seen  him  in  the  street  when  it  appeared  as  if 
he  could  hardly  "  drag  himself  along,"  to  use  a 
quaint  phrase.  He  left  New  York,  went  to  a  place 


128          "LEGACY  OF  AN  OCTOGENARIAN. 

somewhere  up  the  Hudson,  and  commenced  work 
as  a  journeyman  printer,  chiefly  at  the  press.  After 
working  for  a  few  months  he  so  regained  his  health 
that  he  was  able  to  return  to  his  former  pursuit  with 
all  his  old-time  vigor. 

It  is  said  that  in  a  population  like  that  of  the 
United  States,  taking  it  by-and-large,  and  calling 
the  period  of  life  seventy  years,  ten  days  a  year  is 
about  the  average  term  of  sickness  for  each  indi- 
vidual ;  above  fifty  it  is  much  greater ;  but  below 
forty-three  it  is  considerably  less.  But  by  confining 
the  calculation  to  those  pursuing  sedentary  occupa- 
tions the  average  is  found  to  be  very  much  greater. 
All  know  that  exercise  has  visible  effect  on  the 
spirits.  It  is  one  of  the  best  medicines  for  despon- 
dency, producing  a  healthful  exhilaration,  and 
driving  away  those  insane  fancies  about  disease 
that  make  so  many  miserable.  These  remarks  are 
not  wasted  if  they  prove  the  means  of  saving  one 
individual  from  sickness  or  melancholy  ;  and  it  is 
hoped  they  are  not  out  of  place. 

IT  WAS  in  or  about  1841  that  the  then  recently 
discovered  art  known  as  Daguerreotype,  the  origi- 
nal of  the  photographic  process,  was  introduced 
into  this  country,  the  discovery  having  been  made 
two  years  before  by  M.  Daguerre,  of  France. 
Great  ingenuity  was  presently  applied  in  all  parts 
of  the  civilized  world  for  the  development  of  its 
possibilities  ;  but  it  was  some  time  before  it  attained 
anything  like  the  beautiful  phase  now  known  as 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  1 29 

photograph}-.  Mr.  Gray,  a  gentleman  residing  on 
Beacon  street,  Boston,  as  well  as  many  other  ama- 
teur scientists,  became  greatly  interested  in  the  new 
discovery.  At  considerable  expense  he  imported 
a  set  of  the  apparatus  from  the  establishment  of  the 
discoverer.  And  this  apparatus  he  kindly  lent  me 
to  experiment  with  during  the  summer  of  that  year, 
1841.  It  was  a  ponderous  collection  of  boxes,  with 
one  or  two  bottles  of  chemicals,  and  only  suitable 
for  landscape  views.  No  satisfactory  portraits  could 
then  be  taken  by  the  process,  though  something  in 
that  line  was  attempted.  This  was  the  first  Daguer- 
reotype or  photographic  apparatus  ever  in  Lynn, 
and  with  it  I  pleasantly  employed  many  a  vacant 
hour.  There  was  an  establishment  in  Boston  which 
made  some  pretension  in  the  line  of  miniatures, 
but  the  sitter,  after  remaining  painfully  still  for  from 
ten  to  fifteen  minutes,  often  received  a  blotched  pic- 
ture called  a  likeness,  the  features  of  which  were 
scarcely  discernible  unless  held  in  a  particular  light. 
But  the  process,  in  this  country  especially,  was  im- 
proved with  remarkable  rapidity,  and  we  now  wit- 
ness its  capabilities  in  the  elegant  cards  that  adorn 
the  homes  of  rich  and  poor,  adding  so  much  to  en- 
dearing memories  of  departed  friends.  Not  only 
that,  but  science  is  already  indebted  to  it  for  many 
wonderful  discoveries,  especially  in  astronomy. 
And  still  great  expectations  of  further  achievements 
by  its  aid  are  reasonably  entertained.  There  seem, 
however,  to  have  been  glimpses  of  the  photographic 
art  as  early  as  two  centuries  before  the  time  of 

9 


130  LEGACY   OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

Daguerre  ;  but  nothing  satisfactory  appears  to  have 
been  accomplished,  -and  it  became  a  "  lost  art." 


AGAIN    IN    NEW    YORK. 

IN  1842  I  again  found  myself  in  New  York,  and 
at  this  time  was  chiefly  engaged  in  the  editorial  de- 
partment of  a  daily  paper ;  two  or  three  weeklies 
being  likewise  issued  from  the  same  establishment. 

It  was  at  this  time  that  I  became  a  co-worker 
with  Walter  Whitman,  who  was  then  only  known  by 
his  undocked  name,  but  who,  when  he  became  a 
member  of  the  Bohemian  conclave,  chose  to  reduce 
the  baptismal  part  to  Walt.  Mr.  W.  and  myself 
occupied  chairs  at  the  same  table,  and  of  course 
saw  much  of  each  other.  He  was  modest  and 
companionable  ;  though  what  he  might  have  been 
had  he  possessed  power  to  see  the  position  he  would 
attain  as  one  of  the  leading  poets  of  the  age,  can 
only  be  imagined.  The  association  was  extremely 
agreeable  in  many  respects.  Though  affable  and 
unassuming  in  personal  intercourse,  he  was  occa- 
sionally so  trenchant  with  his  pen  that  the  propri- 
etors had,  now  and  then,  to  broadly  hint  that  some 
restraint  would  be  desirable.  His  style  at  that  time 
somewhat  resembled  Dickens's,  having  nothing  of 
the  rough,  ragged,  and  sometimes  uncouth  features 
that  so  marred  it  after  he  had  fraternized  with  the 
Bohemians.  As  the  writer  knew  him  he  was  more 
than  commonly  free  from  vicious  habits  or  inclina- 
tions, and  it  was  never  learned  that  he  afterward, 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  131 

when  surrounded  by  roistering  associates,  became 
tainted  by  their  indiscretions. 

Poet  like,  however,  Mr.  Whitman  had  even  at 
that  time  gained  a  reputation  for  indolence.  I  re- 
member his  coming  in  one  pleasant  spring  morning 
and  asking  if  I  would  fill  his  place,  as  well  as  my 
own,  on  the  next  morning's  paper.  Without  any 
hesitation  I  assented.  An  hour  or  two  after,  one 
of  the  proprietors  came  in  and  asked  where  Whit- 
man was.  I  replied  that  he  said  he  wanted  to  take 
a  stroll  on  Long  Island,  and  that  I  had  agreed  to 
fill  his  place  on  the  morning  paper.  "  Lazy  d  —  1 !" 
he  exclaimed  ;  "  but  then,  if  you  choose  to  do  his 
work  and  your  own,  too,  and  make  an  accommo- 
dating turn-about,  I  have  no  objection."  It  never 
seemed  to  me,  however,  that  it  was  laziness,  as  the 
term  is  commonly  understood,  in  Whitman,  but 
rather  a  desire  for  the  stimulation  of  a  free  and  airy 
ramble,  with  the  opportunity  to  indulge  uninter- 
ruptedly in  some  train  of  thought,  the  fruit  of  which 
might  soon  appear  in  print. 

Why  Mr.  Whitman  was  always  poor  it  is  not  easy 
to  tell,  for  at  one  time,  while  in  the  vigor  of  early 
manhood,  he  certainly  earned  a  good  deal  of  money, 
and  apparently  had  no  expensive  habits.  He  ap- 
peared to  enjoy  good  health,  and  loved  to  take  long 
walks  about  the  city  and  far  into  the  suburbs.  But 
for  many  of  his  latter  years  he  was  sadly  paralytic, 
almost  entirely  deprived  of  the  use  of  his  lower 
limbs.  His  exposure  during  the  war  was  considered 
to  be  the  cause  of  his  suffering. 


132  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

The  "Bohemians"  were  an  interesting  though 
not  an  exemplary  class.  Henry  Clapp,  who  finally 
became  a  leader  among  them,  was  at  one  time  a 
resident  of  Lynn,  and  very  zealous  in  stirring  up 
the  people  of  Essex  County  on  the  temperance  and 
anti-slavery  questions.  He  edited  a  weekly  paper, 
was  a  writer  of  much  vigor  and  pungency,  and  an 
eloquent  speaker.  After  leaving  this  section  he 
roved  about  Europe  for  a  time,  became  quite  promi- 
nent among  the  Bohemians  of  London,  and  finally 
returned  to  New  York,  where  he  attained  the  pre- 
eminent title  of  "  King  of  the  Bohemians."  He 
had  charge  of  one  or  two  newspapers.  But  though 
a  forcible  writer,  he  was  so  uncertain  and  so  un- 
steady in  his  course  as  an  editor,  that  he  was  by  no 
means  successful.  He  died  in  1875. 

One  or  two  brief  narrations  will  very  well  illus- 
trate the  readiness  with  which  Mr.  Whitman  was 
able  to  wield  the  pen,  as  well  as  afford  a  glimpse 
at  other  traits.  The  first  relates  to  the  time  when 
his  writings  were  beginning  to  be  known  and  ap- 
preciated, and  before  he  had  fallen  into  those  vaga- 
ries of  style  which  characterized  him,  and  in  the 
minds  of  many  greatly  damaged  him  in  after  life. 
He  was  then  about  twenty-five  years  of  age. 

I  was  one  day,  during  a  temporary  residence  in 
New  York,  passing  down  Broadway,  when  I  met  a 
friend  who  informed  me,  with  much  feeling,  of  the 
recent  death  of  his  endeared  young  wife,  and  added 
that  he  was  having  prepared  a  monument  to  mark 
her  burial  place,  and  wished  I  would  furnish  some 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  133 

suitable  poetic  lines  to  accompany  the  formal  part 
of  the  inscription.  I  told  him  that  such  composi- 
tion was  not  exactly  in  my  line,  but  that  I  knew  one 
who  could  do  it  in  a  most  acceptable  manner;  that 
I  should  see  him  in  the  course  of  an  hour  or  two 
and  would  not  hesitate  to  ask  the  favor.  The  per- 
son to  whom  I  alluded  was  Mr.  Whitman. 

I  saw  him  during  the  evening,  made  my  request, 
and  was  assured  that  the  lines  should  be  ready  in 
due  season.  Some  weeks  passed  and,  though  we 
met  about  every  day,  nothing  was  said  regarding 
the  matter,  probably  both  of  us  allowing  it  to  drop 
temporarily  out  of  mind. 

When  I  again  met  my  friend  he  was  quite  impa- 
tient, saying  that  the  workman  was  actually  waiting 
for  the  lines.  I  told  him  I  would  see  to  it  forth- 
with ;  and  knowing  where  Mr.  Whitman  could 
usually  be  found  at  that  hour,  I  hastened  to  see  him. 
He  was  comfortably  seated,  absorbed  in  a  book.  I 
reminded  him  of  his  promise,  the  nature  of  the 
lines  desired,  and  the  inconvenience  of  further 
delay;  and  with  due  emphasis  declared  that  if 
I  were  compelled  to  go  out  of  that  room  empty 
handed  I  should  feel  forced  to  undertake  the  task 
myself.  He  then  raised  his  head,  and  with  the 
well-remembered  look  of  mingled  earnestness  and 

drollery  said  :  —  "  Well,  now,  N ,  rather  than 

you  should  be  driven  to  that  perilous  extremity,  I  '11 
see  what  I  can  do  for  your  relief.  Give  me  your 
pencil." 

A  short  interval  of  silence  ensued,   he  deep  in 


134  '  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

thought  and  busy  with  pencil,  and  I  gazing  out 
over  the  stirring  scenes  around  the  City  Hall. 

It  was  done.  The  lines  were  handed  me,  and  so 
appropriate,  so  tender  and  sweet  they  were,  that 
there  was  not  another  murmur  about  the  delay. 

Another  little  incident  occurred  during  the  time 
when  he  fraternized  with  the  Bohemians.  I  had 
not  seen  him  for  months,  and  was  hastily  passing 
down  Fulton  street  about  noon,  one  day,  when  I 
met  him.  The  meeting  was  cordial,  and  happened 
in  front  of  one  of  the  restaurants,  at  that  time  so 
common  thereabout.  About  the  first  salutation 
from  him  was,  "  Come,  come,  now,  let  us  step 
right  in  here,  and  I  '11  order  something  for  the  en- 
couragement of  the  inner  man ;  and  over  the  sup- 
ply we  will  have  a  talk."  My  reply  was,  that  as  I 
was  hastening  to  take  a  steamer,  I  must  decline  his 
kind  invitation.  "Well,  then,  good-by,"  he  said, 
as  we  shook  hands ;  but  with  an  air  of  mock  grav- 
ity added,  "and  perhaps  it  was  as  well  that  you 
declined  my  generous  invitation,  for  six  cents  is 
the  sum  total  of  my  funds." 

The  last  time  I  ever  saw  Mr.  Whitman  was  some 
fifteen  years  ago.  His  condition  was  then  pitiable, 
such  that  even  with  the  assistance  of  a  muscular 
attendant  he  found  it  difficult  to  mount  a  few  steps. 
To  my  remark  that  rheumatism  must  be  a  very 
painful  affliction  he  rejoined,  "  Rheumatism  !  I 
wish  it  was  rheumatism  ;  it  is  paralysis ;  hopeless 
paralysis." 

Of  the  quality  of  Mr.   Whitman's  literary  pro- 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  135 

ductions  it  would  be  unseemly  here  to  enlarge. 
He  was  extolled  as  poet  by  some  of  the  English 
publications  to  a  degree  that  to  many  confirmed  the 
idea  that  distance  lends  enchantment.  It  is  hardly 
likely  to  be  conceded  with  anything  like  unanimity, 
that  the  reviewer  who  placed  him  at  the  head  of 
all  American  poets  —  naming  Bryant  and  Long- 
fellow especially  —  could  have  so  written  after 
mature  consideration.  Perhaps  he  was  greater  than 
all  in  the  sense  that  everyone  is  greater  than  others 
in  something.  But  supposing  the  works  and  mem- 
ory of  one  of  those  three  —  Bryant,  Longfellow 
and  Whitman — were  decreed  to  be  blotted  out  of 
existence,  which  would  the  world  vote  that  it 
should  be  ?  I  seriously  question  whether  it  would 
be  Bryant  or  Longfellow. 

There  are,  doubtless,  many  who  sincerely  believe 
that  the  name  and  fame  of  Mr.  Whitman  will  sur- 
vive as  long  as  those  of  any  poet  America  has  ever 
produced.  And  it  is  equally  certain  that  there  are 
many  who  believe  that  his  name  and  fame  will 
rapidly  fade  away.  That  he  himself  had  an  ar- 
dent longing  for  the  poet's  immortality,  and  believed 
it  to  be  his  destined  achievement,  cannot  be  doubted. 


THERE  was  another  poet  in  New  York,  at  this 
time,  a  much  more  marked  character  than  Mr. 
Whitman  then  was.  It  was  McDonald  Clarke, 
called  the  "  mad  poet,"  from  his  waywardness  and 
varied  eccentricities.  He  made  occasional  contribu- 


136  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

tions  to  our  paper,  was  a  well-known  promenader 
of  Broadway,  and  sometimes  met  with  serious  re- 
buffs for  what  were  taken  to  be  offensive  oglings 
of  the  belles  he  met  on  that  brilliant  thoroughfare. 
But  it  is  hardly  probable  that  he  thought  of  giving 
any  offence,  for  he  was  a  born  worshipper  of  fe- 
male beauty,  and  when  meeting  a  charming  speci- 
men in  his  walks,  was  apt  to  turn  about  and  indulge 
in  a  prolonged  gaze.  He  was  of  an  amiable  and 
courteous  disposition,  always  well  dressed,  and 
apparently  addicted  to  no  vices.  His  oddities  of 
manner  in  the  streets  seem  to  have  been  his  chief 
failing  towards  the  maintenance  of  the  full-rounded 
character  of  a  gentleman.  He  was  a  devoted  at- 
tendant at  Grace  Church,  the  fashionable  place  of 
Episcopal  worship,  then  on  Broadway,  corner  of 
Rector  street. 

Mr.  Clarke  was  not  a  very  prolific  writer,  but 
some  of  his  poems  will  be  admired  long  after  many 
of  the  popular  metrical  essays  of  this  day  are  for- 
gotten. Some  of  his  productions  were  not  very 
perfect  in  diction  nor  mellifluous  in  construction  : 
but  they  had  touching  pathos,  deep  sentimentality, 
or  stirring  humor.  In  mere  description  he  was  not 
happy.  In  looking  over  a  collection  of  old  papers, 
recently,  I  came  across  the  original  manuscript  of 
the  last  lines  he  ever  wrote.  And  it  vividly  recalled 
to  mind  his  appearance  as  he  handed  it  to  me  on 
that  far-off  day,  requesting  that  it  might,  if  possi- 
ble, appear  in  the  next  morning's  paper.  He  was 
wrapped  in  his  well-known  blue  military  cloak, 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  137 

with  a  low-crowned  cloth  cap  on  his  head.  He 
seemed  strangely  agitated,  as  if  trying  to  grasp 
some  far-off  idea  ;  but  I  did  not  imagine  that  with- 
in a  few  hours  his  voice  would  be  forever  hushed 
and  the  melodious  pen  drop  from  his  grasp ;  that 
within  forty-eight  hours  his  cold  limbs  would  be 
gathered  to  the  silent  company  in  Greenwood 
Cemetery.  There  he  rests  beneath  a  once  fair  but 
now  neglected  and  decaying  monument,  which 
bears  an  inscription  written  by  his  own  hand,  and 
lines  by  his  loving  friend  and  fellow-poet  Halleck. 
Mr.  Clarke  died  on  the  5th  of  March,  1842,  at  the 
age  of  forty-four  years.  Some  thought  his  death 
was  suicidal,  by  drowning,  for  his  body  was  found 
beneath  a  flowing  faucet.  The  funeral  service  was 
held  in  Grace  Church,  which  he  had  long  devoutly 
regarded  as  his  spiritual  home. 


ONE  of  the  chief  attractions  for  young  men  in 
the  large  cities  is  the  theatre.  The  first  regular 
play  that  I  ever  attended  was  in  the  old  Federal 
street  theatre,  at  the  corner  of  Federal  and  Franklin 
streets,  Boston.  I  do  not  remember  what  the  prin- 
cipal play  was,  but  the  after-piece  was  "  Luke  the 
Laborer."  Theatre  attendance,  however,  never 
cost  me  much  money,  though  I  cannot  deny  that  I 
was  deeply  interested  in  some  of  the  old  plays. 
To  see  such  actors  as  Cooper,  the  elder  Booth,  For- 
rest, and  other  stars,  in  Shaksperian  delineations 
was  highly  enjoyed.  Then  there  was  Henry  J. 


138       -LEGACY  OF  AN  OCTOGENARIAN. 

Finn,  the  popular  actor  of  tragedy  and  comedy, 
and  poet  and  humorist  as  well.  I  saw  him  many 
times.  But  his  oft  merry  career  ended  in  deep 
tragedy,  for  he  was  one  of  the  unfortunate  passen- 
gers on  the  steamer  Lexington  on  the  terrible  night 
in  which  she  was  burned  on  Long  Island  Sound. 

The  theatres  of  those  days  had  much  more  ob- 
jectionable features,  in  a  moral  way,  than  those  of 
the  present  time.  They  had  drinking  bars  and 
quarters  where  the  meretricious  were  accustomed 
to  congregate  and  ply  their  wiles.  But  fortunately 
I  had  power  to  resist  all  those  temptations.  When 
in  New  York,  as  a  press  representative,  I  had  a  free 
.pass  to  two  or  three  of  the  theatres,  and  used 
almost  every  evening  to  drop  in  for  an  hour  or  two, 
but  probably  never  so  yielded  to  their  allurements 
as  did  most  young  men  situated  as  I  was. 

I  remember  that  when  the  famous  dancer,  Fanny 
Ellsler,  created  such  a  furor,  I  wished  much  to  see 
her ;  but  my  free  pass  did  not  include  the  theatre 
in  which  she  appeared  ;  and  the  price  of  admission 
had  risen  enormously.  In  speaking  of  my  desire 
to  the  one  in  our  office  who  had  a  free  entrance  to 
that  particular  theatre,  he  said,  "Why,  I  can  get 
you  in  easily  enough.  We  will  go  together.  I  will 
pass  in  at  my  usual  door,  leaving  you  in  the  vesti- 
bule. Then  I  will  come  out  by  another  door,  taking 
a  return  check ;  that  check  I  will  hand  you  and 
you  can  pass  in  by  any  door.  I  do  not  desire  to 
attend  to-night,  and  so  there  is  no  wrong  in  the 
arrangement ;  as  you  can  make  a  note  if  anything 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  139 

special  occurs."  The  plan  worked  without  any 
obstruction,  and  both  of  us  had  quiet  consciences 
in  the  fact  that  I  merely  occupied  his  seat  as  a  sub- 
stitute. Thus  I  had  an  opportunity  to  witness  the 
surprisingly  graceful  feats  of  the  "  divine  Fanny," 
without  cost.  With  the  performance  I  was  charmed, 
and  began  to  ask  if,  after  all,  great  bodily  accom- 
plishment were  not  as  profitable  and  sometimes  as 
desirable  as  great  intellectual  accomplishment. 

I  likewise  had  a  free  pass  to  the  American 
Museum,  on  Broadway,  opposite  St.  Paul's  Church. 
It  had  recently  come  under  charge  of  P.  T.  Bar- 
num,  then  a  young  man,  recently  from  Bridgeport, 
Connecticut,  and  in  rather  low  circumstances  pecun- 
iarily, but  full  of  energy  and  resources.  Some- 
times of  a  Saturday  he  would  come  into  our  office 
to  borrow  a  few  dollars  to  help  pay  off  his  em- 
ployes, who  were  not  slow  to  threaten  a  revolt  if 
their  wages  were  not  forthcoming.  He  was  always 
planning  something  to  attract  the  gaze  and  wonder 
of  the  public,  whether  it  be  the  laying  of  bricks  in 
some  cabalistic  form  in  front  of  the  museum  door, 
or  dazzling  the  eyes  of  the  crowds  on  Broadway 
by  a  brilliant  revolving  light  on  the  roof.  He 
probably  at  that  time  little  dreamed  that  he  would 
ever  become  proprietor  of  "  the  greatest  show  on 
earth,"  or  an  unquestioned  millionaire.  But  one 
maxim,  on  which  he  is  reputed  to  have  acted  during 
his  whole  life,  was  \vell  calculated  to  insure  suc- 
cess ;  and  that  was  to  always  give  patrons  their 
monev's  worth,  even  if  it  were  in  the  line  of  arrant 


140  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

humbug.  This  remarkable  man  was  born  in  Con- 
necticut, in  1810,  and  began  his  career  as  a  show- 
man at  about  the  age  of  twenty-five.  He  became 
noted  in  Europe  as  well  as  in  America,  and,  after 
some  pecuniary  ups  and  downs,  was  finally  so  suc- 
cessful that  at  the  time  of  his  decease,  April  7,  1891, 
his  estate  was  valued  at  more  than  $5,000,000. 
He  was  a  man  of  estimable  character,  and  news- 
paper eulogy  both  here  and  abroad  was  unstinted. 


WRITING. 

I  DO  not  know  what  the  inducement  was,  but 
recollect  that  I  began  very  early  to  indulge  in  at- 
tempts at  composition,  which,  by  the  way,  was  not 
taught  in  any  school  that  I  attended.  The  first  that 
I  remember  was  an  epistle  to  the  nurse  who  pre- 
sided at  my  birth.  I  was  seven  years  old,  and  in 
the  exuberance  of  happy  childhood  seized  the  op- 
portunity to  express  my  thanks  for  her  agency  in 
my  introduction  to  a  world  that  then  appeared  so 
beautiful.  And  I  remember  of  occasional  attempts 
all  through  my  school-boy  days  to  express  my  con- 
ceits on  paper,  sometimes  in  rhyme.  But  nothing 
to  speak  of  greeted  my  glad  eyes  in  print,  till  June, 
1831,  at  which  halcyon  period  there  shone  forth  in 
the  Boston  Saturday  Evening  Gazette  an  article  I 
had  slyly  sent  in,  and  which  seemed  so  favorably 
received  that  in  my  elation  I  fancied  myself  on  the 
high  road  to  literary  fame.  Thence  forward  I  con- 
tinued to  often  use  the  pen,  and  at  some  periods 


LEGACY    OF    AX    OCTOGENARIAN.  14! 

was  almost  solely  indebted  to  it  for  support.  The 
greater  part,  in  bulk,  that  I  have  written,  has  passed 
into  oblivion,  in  the  columns  of  newspapers  and 
other  publications  of  the  day.  What  chiefly  sur- 
vives, in  book  form,  is  as  follows  : 

"The  Essex  Memorial":  embracing  historical, 
statistical,  and  descriptive  notices  of  all  the  towns 
in  Essex  County.  1836. 

"Lin,  or  Jewels  of  the  Third  Plantation":  giv- 
ing the  legendary  and  romantic  side  of  Lynn's 
history.  1862. 

"  History  of  Lynn,  from  1629  to  1890":  in  two 
volumes — 1629  to  1865,  1865  to  1890  —  embracing 
Alonzo  Lewis's  valuable  chapters. 

"The  Centennial  Memorial  of  Lynn."     1876.* 

"Proceedings  on  the  Celebration  of  the  Two 
Hundred  and  Fiftieth  Anniversary  of  the  Settle- 
ment of  Lynn."  1879.* 

"  Sketches  of  Lj-nn,  Lynnfield,  and  Swamp- 
scott,"  in  J.  W.  Lewis  &  Co.'s  Volumes  of  Essex 
County  History. 

As  to  the  labor  of  the  writer  on  the  History  of 
Lynn  it  may  be  proper  to  say  a  few  words  specially. 
About  the  year  1860,  Mr.  Lewis,  whose  first  edition 
of  his  excellent  history  was  issued  as  far  back  as 

*  "  The  Centennial  Memorial  of  Lynn, "and  "  Proceedings  on  the  Celebration 
of  the  Two  Hundred  and  Fiftieth  Anniversary  of  the  Settlement  of  Lynn," 
were  published  at  the  request  and  by  the  invitation  of  the  City  Government  of 
Lynn. 

NOTE.  —  "  Ye  Great  and  General  Courtein  Collonie  Times"  was  completed 
for  publication  at  the  time  of  the  death  of  Judge  Newhall.  He  wrote  the  book, 
set  the  type,  had  the  plates  cast,  and  was  arranging  for  its  publication.  It  has 
now  been  published  contemporaneously  with  this  book,  1897.  —  EDS. 


142  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

1829,  and  whose  second  edition  appeared  in  1844, 
proposed  issuing  a  third  edition  which  would  bring 
the  history  down  to  perhaps  the  year  1860.  But 
from  various  causes,  such  as  ill  health  and  urgent 
duties  on  which  he  was  dependent  for  daily  sup- 
port, he  did  not  press  on  with  the  work.  And  in 
1861  he  died,  having  made  little  or  no  progress. 
A  year  or  two  passed  and  no  one  appeared  willing 
to  undertake  the  work. 

Happening  to  be  in  the  bookstore  of  Mr.  Thomas 
Herbert,  on  Exchange  street,  one  morning,  some- 
thing was  said  about  the  history.  And  finally,  Mr. 
H.  remarked,  "Why  don't  you  undertake  the 
preparation?"  The  reply  was  that  the  labor  would 
be  great,  and  might  essentially  interfere  with 
my  professional  duties.  And,  besides,  pecuniary 
loss  would  be  almost  sure  to  follow,  for  local  histo- 
ries are  costly  in  preparation,  and  the  circulation 
must  necessarily  be  limited.  However,  I  was  led 
to  think  the  matter  over,  and  concluded  that,  as  I 
was  acquainted  with  the  use  of  types,  I  might  pro- 
cure a  font  or  two,  manufacture  a  little  rough  office 
furniture,  borrow  a  few  necessary  materials  of  my 
friends,  the  printers,  and  in  a  back  room  undertake 
the  composition. 

In  pursuance  of  that  plan  I  went  to  work,  pre- 
pared the  manuscript,  and  did  the  composition  of 
the  whole  620  pages.  By  that  means  I  saved  some 
$600,  though  how  much  was  incidentally  lost  by 
the  neglect  of  other  duties  I  never  calculated.  This 
volume  brought  the  annals  down  to  the  close  of 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  143 

1864.  At  a  later  period  another  volume  was  pub- 
lished, making  the  history  complete  to  the  close  of 
1889. 

I  never  claimed  the  exalted  name  of  poet ;  but 
occasionally  on  an  emergency  turned  my  hand  to 
versification ;  perhaps  supplying  a  carrier's  new 
year  address ;  for  the  newspaper  carrier  of  old 
must  always  have  his  new  year  address  to  patrons, 
which  was  a  delicate  way  of  asking  a  douceur ;  or 
when  a  poetic  quotation  for  the  head  of  a  chapter 
or  something  of  the  kind  was  wanted,  it  was  found 
easier  to  write  the  same  than  to  look  it  up  in  some 
other  work.  But  at  intervals,  as  is  often  the  case 
with  other  literary  fledglings,  a  "  poem  "  would, 
in  spite  of  any  restraint,  ooze  from  the  pen. 


IN  THE  line  of  fiction,  my  productions,  such  as 
they  were,  have  been  varied  and  scattered  over 
many  years ;  but  the  endeavor  has  been  to  give 
them  such  an  air,  dress  and  tone,  as  to  distinguish 
them  as  fictions.  Yet  in  some  instances  they  have 
been  quoted  as  unadorned  truths.  Comparatively 
few  readers  critically  observe  the  texture  of  what 
they  read.  They  skim  over  the  page  and  catch  a 
general  idea,  without  considering  details  or  weigh- 
ing conclusions.  This,  of  course,  applies  more  to 
newspapers  than  to  books.  The  matter  was  brought 
to  mind  many  years  ago  in  a  rather  singular  way. 

It  was  in  1842  that  I  happened  in  the  office  of  a 
friend  who  printed  a  weekly  paper  in  Lynn.  As 


144  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

was  usual  with  the  young  editor  when  I  happened 
in  the  office,  he  said,  "  Come,  now,  write  something 
for  our  next  paper."  The  reply  was,  that  if  he 
would  give  me  a  printer's  stick  I  would  set  up 
something  without  writing.  The  stick  was  soon  in 
hand  and  in  due  time  a  piece  of  half  a  column  was 
in  type,  and  appeared  in  the  morning's  paper.  It 
was  simply  a  sportive  fiction,  expected  only  to 
create  a  momentary  wonder.  And  this  is  the  way 
it  read  : 

EXTRAORDINARY    PHENOMENA. 

Through  the  kindness  of  a  friend  we  have  been  en- 
abled to  lay  before  our  readers  the  following  extract  of  a 
letter  from  an  eminent  astronomer  in  New  Haven,  to 
a  scientific  gentleman  in  this  town,  received  during  the 
present  week.  It  will  be  found  deeply  interesting : 

«*  *  *  There  is  certainly  some  extraordinary 
change  going  on  in  the  solar  system.  Whether  the  result 
will  be  a  speedy  dissolution  of  the  present  harmonious 
arrangement,  is  of  course  known  only  to  Him  who  insti- 
tuted the  laws  which  govern  the  courses  of  the  stars. 
For  some  time  my  attention  has  been  directed  to  the 
rapidly  developing  phenomena,  and  I  have  been  assisted 
in  my  observations  by  gentlemen  eminent  for  their  scien- 
tific attainments.  And  within  a  few  days  I  have  had 
placed  in  my  hands  a  paper  from  the  celebrated  astrono- 
mer Hanfl,  of  Berlin,  detailing  his  own  discoveries,  and 
indicating  that  the  subject  is  beginning  to  excite  intense 
interest  among  the  scientific  of  Europe. 

"  It  is  evident  that  the  inclination  of  the  earth's  axis 
with  the  ecliptic  is  changing.  There  is  now  a  nearer  ap- 
proach to  a  coincidence  of  equator  and  ecliptic  than  has 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  145 

ever  before  been  known.  Since  the  autumnal  equinox 
the  obliquity  of  the  earth's  course  has  sensibly  diminished, 
and  if  no  counteracting  influence  intervenes,  there  will 
soon  be  a  perceptible  change  in  the  seasons  and  in  the 
relative  lengths  of  day  and  night. 

"  The  change  is  so  great  already  that  many  intricate 
calculations  for  the  present  year  will  be  found  inaccurate. 
Some  of  the  important  calculations  of  the  Nautical  Alma- 
nac will  be  soon  found  perplexing  to  the  mariner  as  he 
takes  his  observations.  And  some  of  those  heretofore 
highly  useful  tables  in  the  American  Almanac,  founded 
on  the  bearings  of  some  of  the  fixed  stars  as  well  as 
planets,  will  prove  entirely  unsafe  if  the  progress  of  the 
change  continues.  An  experienced  and  intelligent  ship- 
master, a  day  or  two  since,  casuallyobserved  to  me  that 
on  a  recent  voyage  from  the  East  Indies,  when  he  had 
sailed  about  six  degrees  north  of  the  equator  —  the  region 
from  which  the  North  Star  is  usually  first  seen  after 
crossing  the  line,  the  haze  rendering  it  invisible  while 
nearer  the  horizon  —  he  was  astonished  and  perplexed 
in  his  observations.  The  unusual  variation  of  his  chro- 
nometer from  the  time  indicated  by  stellar  observation 
led  him  to  doubt  the  accuracy  of  his  formerly  faithful 
guide. 

"  Should  these  changes  continue,  a  variation  in  the  alti- 
tude of  the  North  Star  will  soon  be  apparent  to  the  most 
casual  observer.  At  those  points  of  time,  April  15,  June 
1 6,  August  23,  and  December  24,  when  all  true  time 
keepers  should  agree  with  the  sun,  the  chronometer  will 
be  found  essentially  varying ;  and  many  other  very  im- 
portant results  will  be  developed.  An  attentive  and  ac- 
curate observer  in  the  high  latitudes,  even  at  the  next 
solstice,  cannot  fail  to  recognize  various  astonishing 
phenomena. 
10 


146  -  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

"  But  the  changes  going  on  in  regard  to  the  earth  are 
less  remarkable  perhaps  than  those  which  are  affecting 
some  of  the  other  planets.  The  poles  of  Venus  to  all 
appearance  are  now  elevated  full  thirty-five  degrees,  and 
she  seems  to  be  changing  from  her  former  clear  radiance 
to  a  color  approaching  that  of  Mars.  The  change  in  this 
particular,  however,  is  as  yet  slight,  —  barely  perceptible 
under  close  observation  to  the  naked  eye.  By  the  aid  of 
a  powerful  glass  there  may  be  perceived  what  appear  to 
be  waves  of  fire  rolling  over  her  disc.  This  appearance 
I  have  watched  with  much  interest.  It  commenced  some 
months  since,  on  the  southern  limb,  and  gradually  ad- 
vanced over  the  whole  breadth  till  the  planet  was  com- 
pletely enveloped.  The  motion  of  this  planet,  too,  in 
her  orbit,  seems  to  be  retarded,  as  if  she  were  under  the 
influence  of  some  new  power  of  attraction. 

"  Herschel  has  the  appearance  of  having  greatly  dimin- 
ished in  size,  and  has  failed  to  meet  a  given  point  of  its 
orbit  at  the  usual  time,  and,  in  short,  seems  to  hav.e 
broken  the  bands  that  connected  it  with  the  solar  system, 
and  commenced  its  course  as  a  member  of  some  remote 
celestial  retinue. 

"  Saturn,  also,  is  assuming  an  unwonted  aspect.  To 
all  appearance  there  is  a  mighty  conflagration  going  on  in 
the  hitherto  dark  line  which  divides  its  rings.  To  such 
an  extent  has  it  already  attained  that,  in  one  or  two  places, 
the  whole  breadth  has  assumed  the  appearance  of  ragged 
ranges,  glowing  as  if  they  were  of  red-hot  iron,  and 
throwing  a  lurid  reflection  upon  the  adjacent  portions  of 
the  ring. 

"The  changes  seem  also  to  extend  beyond  our  system. 
The  beautiful  star  Betelguese,  in  the  constellation  Orion, 
has  varied  to  such  an  extent  from  the  vernal  to  the 
autumnal  equinox  of  the  present  year,  that  its  distance 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  147 

may  be  ascertained.  It  seems  to  be  approaching  the  solar 
bounds." 

As  before  remarked,  this  was  simply  a  sportive 
fiction,  and  supposed  to  be  of  so  transparent  a  char- 
acter as  to  be  seen  through  on  a  little  reflection. 
But  such  was  not  the  case.  To  the  surprise  of  all 
acquainted  with  the  facts,  and  most  to  the  astonish- 
ment of  the  writer  himself,  it  was  received  far  and 
near  as  sober  truth.  Never,  perhaps,  did  it  more 
plainly  appear  how  easily  a  reading  public  may  be 
imposed  upon.  It  would  almost  seem  that  any 
school-boy  would  at  once  have  strongly  questioned 
at  least  one  or  two  of  the  statements.  But  the 
article  was  published  all  over  the  country,  and  as 
stated  in  a  New  York  paper,  was  translated  into 
most  foreign  languages  and  published  all  over 
Europe. 

Among  other  things,  at  home,  regarding  this  ar- 
ticle, the  editor  of  the  Locomotive,  that  being  the 
name  of  the  paper  in  which  it  appeared,  received 
a  letter  from  Professor  Olmstead,  begging  for  some 
information  in  the  premises,  and  stating  that  he 
was  subjected  to  such  numerous  calls,  personally 
and  by  letter,  for  light  on  the  subject,  that  he  was 
really  burdened,  notwithstanding  he  had  twice  pub- 
licly stated  through  the  New  Haven  papers,  that 
he  knew  nothing  about  it.  And  it  was  stated  to  the 
writer  that  a  Washington  paper  announced  that 
observations  had  been  instituted  at  the  National 
Observatory,  which  resulted  in  showing  that  the 
thing  was  a  fiction.  But  nothing  was  more  amusing 


148  "     LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

to  the  author  than  the  remark  of  one  really  sci- 
entific gentleman,  who,  having  no  suspicion  of 
its  real  character,  actually  said  that  he  had  himself 
observed  some  of  the  same  phenomena — particularly 
relating  to  Venus. 

From  the  history  of  this  little  piece  an  excellent 
lesson  may  be  drawn.  It  shows  with  what  avidity 
anything  wonderful  is  seized  upon,  and  how  few 
take  pains  to  seriously  consider  what  they  read. 
Where  anything  wonderful  is  concerned,  even  the 
intelligent  mind  seems  often  to  forget  its  powers. 
There  are,  however,  two  classes  of  wonders  —  the 
natural  and  the  supernatural ;  and  two  classes  of 
minds  to  divide  upon  them.  Some  minds  are  self 
possessed  and  strong  in  the  examination  of  all  mat- 
ters partaking  of  the  supernatural,  but  weak  and 
irresolute  in  examining  into  wonders  of  the  natural 
world.  Others  are  the  reverse.  The  celebrated 
Dr.  Johnson  was  of  the  latter  class.  An  account 
of  an  earthquake,  a  hurricane  or  volcano,  he  ex- 
amined by  the  severest  tests,  questioning  and  doubt- 
ing to  the  extreme ;  but  if  any  man  of  common 
reputation  for  truth  told  him  of  the  appearance  of 
a  ghost,  or  detailed  any  spiritual  wonder,  he  listened 
with  childlike  confidence,  not  questioning  or  doubt- 
ing. Most  minds,  however,  are  of  the  reverse 
order ;  and  in  such,  the  article  in  question  met  full 
favor. 


Is  IT  not  true  that  most  of  the  editorial  chairs  at 
the  present  day  are  occupied  by  those  who  in  earlier 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  149 

life  were  practical  printers?  And  is  it  not  also 
true  that  some  of  the  occupants  could  not  have 
received  the  most  worthy  instruction,  or,  having 
received  it,  must  have  proved  unfaithful  to  the  high 
trust?  Were  this  the  place  for  didactic  counsel,  or 
were  the  writer  an  accredited  mentor,  it  would  bet- 
ter become  him  to  criticise  and  make  suggestions. 
A  newspaper  naturally  takes  color  from  the  char- 
acter of  its  conductor.  By  his  works,  emphatically, 
is  an  editor  known.  And  a  character  founded  on 
truth  and  equity,  and  nurtured  by  an  honest  ambi- 
tion "  to  do  a  little  good  in  the  world,"  as  the  first 
Lynn  printer  once  expressed  himself,  is  one  which 
will  stand  firm  through  all  vicissitudes,  and  be  a 
fortune  when  the  head  is  growing  white ;  a  fortune 
more  to  be  desired  and  more  enduring  than  any 
worldly  accumulation.  In  the  management  of  a 
newspaper  two  distinct  interests  are  in  active  opera- 
tion, distinct  and  oftentimes  antagonistic  —  namely, 
individual  interest  and  the  public  good.  I  need  not 
say  which  is  paramount,  for  every  well  ordered  mind 
will  instinctively  perceive.  The  public  often  crave 
unwholesome,  even  poisonous  intellectual  food,  and 
for  what  they  love  they  are  willing  to  pay ;  and 
hence  the  strong  incentive  for  the  publisher  to  cater 
to  vitiated  appetite.  Thrice  worthy,  then,  is  he 
who  withstands  the  strong  temptation,  who  has  the 
high  determination  and  the  moral  courage  to  sub- 
ject, if  need  be,  individual  interest  to  the  public 
weal,  to  stem  the  tide  of  perverse  taste,  and  en- 
deavor to  purify  it,  rather  than  to  be  swept  onward 


I5O  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

by  it,  even  though  golden  nuggets  glisten  beneath 
its  ripples. 

Perhaps  young  printers  at  this  day  are  quite  as 
restless  as  were  those  of  former  years,  though  it 
does  not  exactly  appear  to  be  the  case.  There  are 
some  advantages  in  being  an  itinerant  in  early  life, 
though  there  are  many  and  great  dangers.  One 
learns  more  of  the  world,  and  may  form  acquaint- 
ances and  have  experiences  that  afford  most  agree- 
able recollections  and  valuable  working  material  for 
the  upward  struggles  of  life.  Possibly  I  may  have 
been  classed  among  the  rovers,  and  while  at  my 
now  advanced  age  I  can  look  back  upon  many  de- 
lightful passages,  I  can  also  see  where  some  won- 
derful escapes  were  made. 

The  earlier  printers  were  most  certainly  a  roving 
set.  What,  indeed,  was  Franklin  but  a  typograph- 
ical tramp,  though,  to  be  sure,  a  tramp  of  the  bet- 
ter sort.  There  seems  to  have  been  a  providence 
in  his  career,  a  blessed  providence ;  so  we  will  not 
take  exceptions  to  a  little  seeming  waywardness, 
for  had  he  not  drifted  off  to  Philadelphia  as  he  did, 
where  he  found  opportunities  to  form  acquaintance 
with  leading  patriots  and  hear  discussions  on  the 
great  political  questions  of  the  day,  is  it  probable 
that  he  ever  would  have  attained  the  lofty  position 
he  finally  occupied,  or  led  a  life  of  such  eminent 
usefulness  to  his  country?  But  imitation  of  way- 
ward traits  is  not  to  be  recommended,  in  the  hope 
that  they  may  lead  to  the  height  attained  by  a 
famous  exemplar.  So  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  our 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  1$! 

young  friends  will  take  warning  rather  than  en- 
couragement, and  never  do  an  evil  thing  because  a 
greater  man  has  led  the  way. 


A    LAWYER. 

AND  now  I  may  be  allowed  to  speak  of  the  most 
important  change  in  my  whole  business  life.  It  not 
unfrequently  occurred  to  me,  after  becoming  en- 
gaged in  the  activities  of  life,  that  I  was  better  fitted 
for  a  regular  profession  than  the  rather  unsatisfying 
course  I  was  then  pursuing.  After  my  return  from 
New  York,  in  1842,  I  began  to  consider  the  matter 
seriously.  It  did  not  seem  as  if  I  were  too  old  to 
commence  study  ;  but  the  puzzling  question  was  as 
to  what  particular  end  my  studies  should  be  directed  ; 
or,  in  other  words,  for  what  profession  I  should  aim 
to  qualify  myself. 

One  day,  while  coming  from  Salem  on  the  rail- 
road, I  fell  in  with  my  friend  Thomas  B.  Newhall, 
who  had  settled  in  Lynn  as  a  lawyer  some  seven 
years  before,  and  was  then  in  fair  practice.  As  we 
walked  up  Commercial  street  I  made  some  remark 
about  wishing  that  I  had  prepared,  while  younger, 
for  a  profession.  "Why,"  said  he,  "you  are  not 
too  old  now.  And  if  you  have  any  inclination  for 
the  law,  come  into  my  office  and  take  a  student's 
chair  as  soon  as  you  please."  It  did  not  require 
much  time  for  me  to  consider  the  matter,  nor  to  sig- 
nify my  acceptance  of  his  kind  offer. 

I  applied  myself  diligently  for  three  years,  taking 


152      'LEGACY  OF  AN  OCTOGENARIAN. 

only  a  vacation  of  a  few  weeks  once  or  twice  a 
year,  to  replenish  my  purse  by  lecturing  and  a  little 
other  literary  work.  At  the  end  of  three  years  I 
entered  the  bar  at  Boston,  and  soon  prepared  to 
commence  practice.  This  was  in  1847.  The  law 
at  that  time  enabled  those  wrho  had  studied  three 
years  in  the  office  of  a  regular  practitioner,  to  enter 
the  bar  on  a  certificate,  without  special  examination. 
I  entered  by  a  certificate.  How  I  should  have 
fared  had  I  gone  through  an  examination  I  do  not 
know;  but  would  have  ventured  the  ordeal,  having 
very  industriously  applied  myself. 

Immediately  after  being  admitted  to  practice,  my 
modest  little  sign  beamed  forth  on  the  old  Sagamore 
Building,  mutely  inviting  the  attention  of  the  pub- 
lic. The  Sagamore  Building,  till  it  went  up  in 
flames  in  the  great  fire,  November  26,  1889,  stood 
close  by  the  railroad  station,  Central  square,  Lynn. 
It  was  the  first  law  office  ever  opened  in  that  imme- 
diate vicinity,  where  now,  1893,  so  many  are  con- 
gregated. Very  different  was  the  then  aspect  of 
things  in  that  neighborhood,  now  so  busy  and  so 
adorned  with  stately  structures.  Nothing  but  dimin- 
utive wooden  buildings  were  about  there  ;  and  I  can 
at  this  moment,  in  my  mind's  eye,  see  good  old 
Father  Conner  driving  along  his  cow,  to  be  turned 
into  the  pasture  field  by  the  gate  that  swung  very 
near  where  Central  avenue  now  opens  from  the 
square. 

Clients  came  in  slowly.  I  believe  I  sat  some 
four  weary  weeks  before  having  a  business  call,  but 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  153 

yet  I  seemed  to  be  gaining  somewhat  in  the  good- 
will of  the  neighbors.  I  remember  being  near  my 
open  window  one  morning  when  a  stranger,  alight- 
ing from  the  cars,*called  to  a  passing  neighbor  and 
asked  where  he  could  find  a  lawyer.  My  expecta- 
tions were  on  tip-toe.  He  pointed  to  my  sign  and 
replied,  "  Why,  there,  there  is  a  fellow  up  there, 
who  pretends  to  be  a  lawyer."  I  was  amused  rather 
than  offended  at  the  gentle  sarcasm,  knowing  that 
the  man  bore  me  no  ill-will.  He  afterwards  became 
a  valuable  client.  From  the  few  lawyers  then  in 
practice  here  — Jeremiah  C.  Stickney,  Thomas  B. 
Xewhall,  and  Benjamin  F.  Mudge,  the  latter  of 
whom  had  very  recently  commenced  business  —  I 
invariably  received  the  most  kind  and  considerate 
treatment. 


A  FULL  history  of  the  law  business  in  Lynn,  its 
peculiar  character  and  remarkable  growth  in  recent 
years,  would  no  doubt  prove  interesting  to  the  pres- 
ent generation  of  practitioners,  and  in  a  measure 
to  all  others,  for  there  are  few  who  do  not  at  some 
time  have  experience  in  legal  ups  and  downs.  But 
brief  notices  of  two  or  three  of  the  earliest  legal 
lights  will  be  enough  for  the  present  purpose. 

The  late  Benjamin  Merrill,  who  died  in  Salem 
on  the  30th  of  July,  1847,  aged  sixty-three  years, 
after  having  been  in  practice  there  for  almost  forty 
years,  is  usually  spoken  of  as  the  first  Lynn  law- 
yer. He  came  here  in  1808,  but  remained  only  a 
few  months. 


154  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

But  in  early  colonial  days  there  were  one  or  two 
lawyers  here.  They  did  not,  however,  come  as 
practicing  lawyers,  for  of  course  there  was  hardly 
any  law  business  to  be  done.  No"*doubt  they  assisted 
their  neighbors  by  advice,  and  perhaps  sometimes 
pleaded  for  them.  There  were,  however,  great 
questions,  often  of  a  semi-political  nature,  some- 
times arising  to  call  into  action  the  greatest  skill 
and  profoundest  learning.  But  these  were  not 
usually  of  a  local  character. 

The  most  eminent  of  the  first  lawyers  here  was 
John  Humfrey,  who  came  from  England  in  1631, 
and  settled  in  Nahant  street,  very  near  where  Ocean 
street  now  opens.  He  was  an  original  colonial 
proprietor,  and  did  much  to  promote  the  settlement 
of  the  Bay  Colony,  being  indeed  one  of  the  master 
spirits  in  council  and  in  action.  But  he  was  ambi- 
tious. And  added  to  his  yearning  for  distinction, 
was  the  depressing  influence  of  his  homesick  wife 
who  was  a  daughter  of  the  Earl  of  Lincoln,  and 
had  been  nurtured  in  the  highest  refinements  of 
English  life.  It  was  beyond  her  strength  of  mind 
contentedly  to  sit  down  in  this  wilderness,  with 
barely  the  necessities  of  life.  She  pined  for  her 
old  home  of  elegance  and  luxury,  and  made  his 
life  miserable  by  regrets  and  complainings. 

Mr.  Humfrey  had  been  led  to  expect  the  appoint- 
ment as  Governor  of  a  more  congenial  and  impor- 
tant jurisdiction,  but  failed  in  his  expectations  and 
aspirations,  and  in  1641,  with  his  wife,  returned 
to  England,  where  he  died  in  1661,  well-nigh 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  155 

broken-hearted.  He  left  his  children  here  in  Lynn, 
one  or  two  of  whom  suffered  most  grievous  fortunes, 
and  the  family  here  dwindled  away  in  reputation 
and  substance.  It  is  hard  to  excuse  these  parents 
for  their  almost  literal  desertion  of  their  offspring  ; 
and  the  excuses  that  have  been  urged  for  their  con- 
duct seem  altogether  insufficient. 

One  or  two  others,  of  the  early  colonial  settlers, 
seemed  to  have  possessed  sufficient  legal  attain- 
ments to  assist  their  fellow-townsmen  in  the  few 
matters  of  law  that  arose ;  and  some,  perhaps,  as 
we  find  instances  at  this  day,  being  ignorant  and 
arrogant,  were  able  to  get  their  trusting  neighbors 
more  deeply  into  the  legal  mire.  But  I  need  not 
enlarge  upon  the  achievements  of  any  of  these. 
Mr.  Merrill  was  undoubtedly  the  first  who  opened 
a  regular  law  office  in  Lynn,  and  solicited  general 
practice. 

The  next  lawyer  was  Joshua  Prescott,  ancestor 
of  the  accomplished  historian  Prescott.  He  came 
in  1811. 

In  1812,  Reuben  P.  Washburn  opened  an  office 
in  the  chamber  over  Caleb  Wiley's  grocery  store, 
corner  of  what  is  now  Western  avenue  and  Federal 
street.  He  gained  his  education  by  his  own  ex- 
ertions ;  was  a  man  of  marked  energy  of  character, 
faithful  to  clients,  agreeable  in  manners,  and  ambi- 
tious to  excel  in  his  calling.  He  married  a  daughter 
of  Rev.  Mr.  Thacher,  minister  of  the  famous  Old 
Tunnel,  and  was  father  of  the  late  Governor  Wash- 
burn  of  Vermont,  who  was  born  in  Lvnn. 


156  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

In  1813,  Robert  W.  Trevett  opened  his  law  office 
here.  For  some  years  he  was  numbered  among 
the  foremost  of  the  Essex  bar.  He  was  a  graduate 
of  Harvard  College,  and  not  only  well  read  in  law, 
but  in  history  and  general  literature.  Indeed  his 
knowledge  of  the  history  of  American  commerce 
and  manufactures  was  surpassed  by  very  few.  His 
wife  was  a  lady  eminent  for  her  social  accomplish- 
ments and  virtues.  His  life,  however,  closed  in 
indigence  and  obscurity  on  the  I3th  of  January, 
1842,  his  age  then  being  but  53  years. 

In  1826,  Isaac  Gates  settled  as  a  lawyer  in  Lynn. 
He  was  a  marked  character ;  not  particularly  cour- 
teous toward  opponents,  or  conspicuously  prudent 
in  his  habits.  Yet  he  had  kindly  traits,  and,  as 
one  of  his  neighbors,  I  would  readily  bear  testimony 
to  his  friendly  acts.  These  two  —  Mr.  Trevett  and 
Mr.  Gates  —  were  the  only  lawyers  here  at  the 
time  Jeremiah  C.  Stickney  opened  his  office  in  1828, 
though  two  or  three  others  whom  I  have  not  named 
had  come  and  gone. 

In  1837,  Thomas  B.  Newhall  opened  his  law  office 
here,  and  continued  in  successful  practice  for  a  little 
more  than  fifty  years.  And  he  deserved  success 
by  his  legal  acumen  and  true  manhood.  Since  that 
time,  slowly  at  first,  but  with  astonishing  rapidity 
afterward,  have  the  Lynn  lawyers  increased  in  num- 
bers, so  that  we  may  now  reckon  forty  or  more. 

It  may  be  remarked,  in  passing,  that  lawyers, 
above  most  other  men,  should  possess  their  souls  in 
patience,  for  they  are  subjected  to  countless  annoy- 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  157 

ances.  And  of  these,  perhaps  none  are  more  vex- 
atious than  street  importunities  —  I  mean  the  sudden 
propounding  of  questions,  often  those  of  an  abstruse 
character,  in  the  street.  But  then,  street  law  must 
always  go  for  what  it  is  worth.  I  remember  hear- 
ing it  related  of  a  prominent  member  of  our  Essex 
bar,  that  he  was  once  stopped  on  the  sidewalk  by 
an  anxious  citizen,  who  asked  his  advice  as  to  what 
course  he  ought  to  take  in  an  important  case  then 
in  preparation  for  trial.  The  advice  was  given, 
off-hand,  and  probably  with  little  or  no  knowledge 
of  the  real  points  in  question,  even  supposing  the 
questioner  had  any  true  conception  of  what  the  vital 
points  in  his  case  were.  Some  time  afterward  the 
questioner  hailed  the  lawyer  and,  with  due  expres- 
sions of  injured  innocence,  told  him  that  his  advice 
had  cost  him  a  round  thousand  dollars.  "  My  ad- 
vice? Why,  when  or  where  did  I  give  you  advice?" 
"  O,  do  n't  you  remember,  sir,  that  I  stopped  you 
on  the  sidewalk  of  Essex  street,  and  there  you  ad- 
vised me  how  to  work  up  my  case?"  "  O,  ah,  in 
the  street,  was  it?  Well,  well,  that  was  street  law, 
my  friend;  street  law;  unpaid  law;  uncertain 
law." 


AT  THIS  time,  1847,  the  Police  Court  had  not 
been  established,  and  all  Justices  of  the  Peace  had 
authority  to  try  minor  cases,  civil  and  criminal ; 
and  not  unfrequently  a  young  lawyer  found  his 
judicial  business  quite  a  help. 

After  being  in  practice  for  a  year  or  two,  how- 


158  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

ever,  I  became  convinced  that  the  manner  in  which 
cases  were  disposed  of  by  local  magistrates  was 
often  bungling  and  inequitable.  As  any  Justice  of 
the  Peace,  whether  lawyer  or  not,  could  sit  in 
judgment,  justice  was  continually  liable  to  miscarry. 
Therefore,  in  1848, 1  very  readily  headed  a  petition 
for  the  establishment  of  a  Police  Court  in  Lynn, 
though  well  aware  that  the  move  was  considerably 
against  my  own  pecuniary  interest,  for  a  good  many 
cases  were  brought  before  me,  and  the  fees  were 
not  to  be  despised.  Yet  it  seemed  to  be  something 
that  the  public  good  required. 

The  Court  was  established  by  the  next  Legisla- 
ture. And  then  came  the  question,  Who  shall  be 
the  Judge?  There  were  presently  three  or  four 
candidates  all  eager  for  the  office,  not  one  of  whom 
was  a  lawyer.  Soon  after  the  passage  of  the  law 
I  met  Senator  Upham  in  the  Salem  depot,  and  in  a 
brief  conversation  was  asked  if  I  desired  the  office 
of  Judge,  he  remarking  that  I  could  have  it  if  I 
wished,  the  matter  having  been  talked  over.  My 
reply  was,  that  however  much  I  might  desire  it  I 
did  not  feel  competent,  with  mv  little  experience, 
to  assume  the  duties  ;  that  I  thought  one  more  deeply 
learned  in  the  law  should  be  appointed,  as  the  Lynn 
people  had  suffered  enough  by  trusting  to  magis- 
trates who  had  only  their  common  sense  to  guide, 
one  of  the  candidates  having  pompously  declared 
that  to  be  sufficient.  And  I  took  the  liberty  to  add 
that  if  Thomas  B.  Newhall,  the  oldest  lawyer  then 
in  Lynn,  excepting  Mr.  Stickney,  would  accept  the 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  159 

office,  no  doubt  his  appointment  would  be  eminently 
satisfactory  to  the  people. 

As  the  time  drew  near  when  the  Court  must  be 
organized,  I  was  one  morning  in  Salem  when  Mr. 
Chapman,  of  the  Governor's  Council,  came  across 
the  street  to  meet  me.  He  said  that  there  were 
three  candidates  actively  pressing  their  claims,  but 
against  all  of  them  there  seemed  serious  objections, 
the  Governor  having  received  letters  speaking  very 
decidedly  against  them ;  adding  that  I  could  see 
the  letters  if  I  wished.  My  reply  was  that  I  had 
much  rather  not  see  them.  Then  the  conversation 
with  Mr.  Upham  was  referred  to,  and  I  reiterated 
that  Thomas  B.  Newhall  was  the  right  man ;  and 
I  thought  he  would  accept.  "Very  well,"  said 
Mr.  C.,  "I  have  your  opinion.  No  doubt  the  ap- 
pointment will  be  made."  And  it  was  made.  Very 
soon  the  commissions  were  received.  Thomas  B. 
Newhall,  Standing  Justice,  Benjamin  F.  Mudge 
and  James  R.  Newhall,  Special  Justices.  Thus 
was  the  Lynn  Police  Court  established. 


FROM  some  cause  lawyers'  prices  had  been  lower 
in  Lynn  than  in  most  other  places  in  this  section. 
Whether  this  was  because  the  people  were  poorer, 
or  thought  the  law  they  got  poorer,  is  now  immate- 
rial, as  so  it  was.  Not  till  about  1860  did  the  Lynn 
lawyers  begin  to  raise  their  standard  of  prices  to 
that  of  their  brethren  in  other  places.  But  notwith- 
standing the  low  prices  for  legal  services  that  pre- 
vailed, I  succeeded  in  making  a  fair  living ;  and 


l6o  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

after  a  few  years  was  invited  by  Mr.  Jeremiah  C. 
Stickney,  before  named  as  the  senior  lawyer  here, 
and  one  of  the  best  known  in  the  county,  to  cast 
my  lot  with  him  as  an  equal  partner.  The  associ- 
ation was  very  pleasant,  and  we  thus  continued  till 
the  time  of  my  appointment  as  Standing  Justice  of 
the  Court  in  1866. 


SOON  after  my  appointment  to  the  office  of  Stand- 
ing Justice,  I  happened  to  meet  one  of  the  oldest 
and  most  respectable  members  of  the  Essex  bar  on 
a  railroad  train.  He  congratulated  me  on  my  ap- 
pointment, and  in  reply  I  remarked  that  I  had 
serious  misgivings  as  to  my  qualifications,  but  hoped 
I  should  be  able  to  do  justice,  though  without  the 
expectation  of  pleasing  every  one.  "  Now,"  said 
he,  "don't  you  have  any  fears.  Take  the  cases 
as  they  come,  fairly  weigh  the  evidence,  judge  of 
the  lies  the  witnesses  tell,  and  the  blunders  they 
make,  and  then  give  judgment  according  to  your 
own  common  sense.  Where  inexplicable  entangle- 
ments occur,  just  turn  up  a  copper,  making  your 
decision  in  that  way,  but  not  allowing  any  one  to 
know  of  the  process."  That  struck  me  as  rather 
a  unique  way  of  solving  legal  puzzles,  though  jus- 
tified by  one  of  high  standing,  and  apparently  given 
in  all  sincerity.  It  seemed  akin  to  the  ancient  trial 
by  ordeal,  which  was  not  so  very  unreasonable, 
perhaps,  in  an  age  when  popular  belief  pointed  to 
direct  providential  interposition  in  the  most  trivial 
affairs.  And  then  the  instruction  of  the  British 


LEGACY    OF   AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  l6l 

minister  to  his  appointee  to  an  important  semi-judi- 
cial position  in  the  East  Indies,  occurred  as  worthy 
of  note.  "Why,"  said  the  honest  man,  "  I  am  not 
fit  for  the  position,  am  no  lawyer,  and  have  had 
little  experience  ;  pray  have  me  excused."  "Not 
at  all,"  was  the  reply,  "  I  believed  you  fit  or  should 
not  have  appointed  you  ;  you  have  common  sense  ; 
administer  according  to  your  best  judgment,  and 
never  worry  about  results.  Be  careful,  however, 
not  to  give  reasons  for  your  decisions.  Reasons 
can  always  be  picked  to  pieces,  but  where  none 
appear  your  worst  enemy,  if  you  have  such,  will 
be  in  the  dark  and  probably  conclude  that  there 
are  good  ones  in  the  background."  This  very  year, 
1893,  there  has  been  an  outcry  against  a  certain 
jury  in  our  own  Essex  County,  because  they  decided 
a  case  substantially  by  lot.  Perhaps  they  thought 
the  precedent  recorded  in  the  last  verse  of  the  first 
chapter  of  Acts  afforded  sufficient  justification. 

The  .jurisdiction  of  the  court  was  from  time  to 
time  greatly  enlarged,  and  the  business  much  in- 
creased. I  remained  in  the  office  till  1879,  and 
then  resigned  its  cares,  perplexities  and  emoluments. 
My  judicial  term  extended  over  thirty  years  —  seven- 
teen as  Special  and  thirteen  as  Standing  Justice. 

LAWYERS,  beyond  most  others,  are  witnesses  of 
the  more  intense  workings  of  passion,  prejudice, 
resentment,  of  almost  every  sentiment,  propensity 
and  emotion,  that  operates  in  poor  human  nature. 
And  no  wonder  that  they  are  often  led  to  conclu- 


1 62  LEGACY    OF    AN     OCTOGENARIAN. 

sions  concerning  the  acts  of  men  very  different 
from  those  entertained  by  such  as  witness  no  such 
examples.  That  some  individuals  possess  a  morbid 
and  uncontrollable  impulse  to  commit  certain  crimes, 
as  theft,  or  even  murder,  cannot  be  successfully 
denied ;  and  hence  the  lawyer,  who  in  defending 
his  client  takes  a  ground  that  opposes  popular 
opinion,  is  sometimes  denounced  as  little  better  than 
the  culprit  himself. 

Kleptomania,  or  the  irresistible  desire  to  pilfer, 
for  instance,  which  some  undoubtedly  are  cursed 
with,  is  a  propensity  that  many  sturdy  moralists 
utterly  deny  ;  while  others  as  firmly  believe  it  to  be 
an  undeniable  human  trait.  I  remember  a  case 
that  came  before  me  prior  to  the  establishment  of 
our  Police  Court,  that  seems  singularly  apt  as  an 
illustration  on  this  point. 

A  young  fellow  of  about  sixteen  years,  prepos- 
sessing in  appearance  and  quite  intelligent,  was 
arrested  for  the  larceny  of  a  small  clock.  It  turned 
out  that  a  month  before  he  had  been  arrested  for 
stealing  a  sum  of  money  from  a  store  on  North 
Common  street,  was  convicted,  and  by  Aaron  Lum- 
mus,  a  magistrate,  known  as  Judge  Lummus,  sen- 
tenced to  the  Ipswich  House  of  Correction  for 
thirty  days.  He  served  out  his  time  and  on  his 
way  home,  which  was  in  Reading,  or  thereabout, 
passed  up  Market  street,  Lynn.  It  was  about  noon, 
and  there  happened  to  be  very  few  in  the  streets. 
On  the  platform  of  Woodbury's  furniture  store  he 
spied  the  clock  in  question,  stepped  up  and  took  it 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  163 

under  his  arm.  The  loss  was  soon  discovered,  and 
one  or  two  said  they  had  seen  a  boy  passing  along 
with  such  a  clock.  He  was  pursued,  overtaken 
and  brought  back.  I  think  he  pleaded  guilty ;  but 
whether  he  did  or  not,  the  evidence  was  overwhelm- 
ing, and  I  told  him  he  would  have  to  go  back  to 
the  House  of  Correction,  this  time  for  two  months. 
While  waiting  for  the  officer  to  get  ready,  I  had 
some  serious  talk  with  him.  He  said,  as  to  the 
clock,  before  seeing  it  he  had  no  thought  of  steal- 
ing any  thing,  but  when  his  eye  caught  it,  the 
temptation  was  so  strong  that  he  could  not  resist. 
He  said  that  two  months  was  a  shorter  term  than  he 
expected  to  be  sent  back,  but  in  tremulous  voice 
said  he  wished  he  could  see  his  mother  before 
going,  though  he  did  not  suppose  that  would  be 
allowed.  When  the  officer  was  ready  he  went  off 
with  him  very  quietly.  It  wras  truly  pitiable  to  see  a 
bright,  handsome  boy  like  him  in  such  a  predicament. 
He  served  out  his  two  months  at  the  House  of 
Correction,  left  the  institution  about  noon,  and  on 
his  way  through  the  town  went  into  the  furnishing 
store  of  Mr.  Baker,  ostensibly  to  purchase  a  cap, 
remarking  that  he  had  been  working  on  a  farm  for 
a  couple  of  months  and  was  then  on  his  way  home. 
In  negotiating  for  the  cap,  under  some  pretense  he 
induced  the  attendant  to  go  into  another  apartment ; 
and  while  alone  the  little  rogue,  seeing  the  cash 
trunk  behind  the  counter,  slipped  round  and  took 
from  it  somewhere  about  a  hundred  dollars.  The 
loss  was  discovered  soon  after  his  departure ;  he 


164  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

was  pursued,  and  caught  in  Hamilton  or  Wenham. 
The  Grand  Jury  were  then  in  session ;  he  was 
indicted,  his  trial  speedily  took  place,  and  partly 
perhaps  in  consequence  of  his  previously  stained 
record  he  was  sent  to  the  State  Prison ;  probably 
without  seeing  his  mother  in  all  that  time.  That 
was  the  last  I  knew  of  him  for  some  years. 

One  night  the  shoe  manufactory  of  the  late  Isaac 
Newhall,  in  Central  square,  was  broken  into  and  a 
quantity  of  shoes  stolen.  By  some  means  Mr. 
Newhall  ascertained  that  a  portion  of  the  shoes 
were  in  possession  of  a  Boston  retailer.  He  sued 
the  retailer  in  a  civil  action  for  the  value  of  the 
shoes,  and  obtained  judgment.  One  of  the  chief 
witnesses  was  this  very  youth,  who  was  summoned 
from  the  State  Prison  and  brought  into  court  by 
his  keeper.  He  testified  that  he  stole  the  shoes, 
and  disposed  of  them  to  the  trader  in  whose  stock 
they  were  found.  It  was  at  this  trial  that,  becoming 
indignant  at  some  of  the  questions  put  to  him,  he 
declared,  with  much  solemnity,  that  he  was  a  thief, 
but  never  guilty  of  perjury  or  any  other  heinous  or 
disgraceful  offence  —  that  he  was  a  thief,  but  a 
criminal  in  no  other  way. 

Quite  a  different  phase  of  human  nature  appears 
in  the  following  case,  which  partakes  somewhat  of 
the  comical  as  well  as  pathetic ;  but  lawyers  are 
not  much  surprised  at  such  mingling  of  sorrow, 
anger  and  emotion.  A  woman  one  day  made  a 
complaint  against  her  brother  for  having  committed 
an  aggravated  assault  on  her  husband.  On  exam- 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  165 

ination  it  appeared  that  the  husband  was  sick  and 
not  expected  to  live  many  days.  The  brother 
boarded  with  them  in  their  rather  forlorn  tenement, 
somewhere  in  the  vicinity  of  Waterhill.  The 
boarder  came  home  one  night  rather  late,  and  hun- 
gry, and  searched  around  for  something  to  eat. 
The  sick  man  was  in  bed  in  the  room,  and  from 
some  cause  the  two  got  into  a  dispute,  which  ran  so 
high  that  the  sick  man  sprang  from  the  bed  and 
grappled  with  the  other,  who,  of  course,  got  the 
better  of  his  weak  antagonist,  and  the  outcries  pres- 
ently brought  the  wife  to  the  scene.  The  disturb- 
ance was  soon  quelled  without  much  damage  to 
either.  But  the  wife's  anger  was  not  readily  ap- 
peased, and  the  result  was  the  complaint  at  the  Po- 
lice Court  against  the  brother.  The  case  was 
patiently  heard,  and  it  soon  appeared  that  the  wife's 
great  indignation  did  not  arise  solely  from  pure 
wifely  affection,  but  partially  from  considerations 
of  quite  another  sort ;  for  in  her  pathetic  remarks 
to  the  magistrate,  she  said,  "  We  knew  my  husband 
would  die  in  a  few  days  ;  and  what  a  looking  corpse 
he  would  make  with  his  face  all  banged  up ! " 

A  client  is  often  quick  in  perceiving  a  vital  point 
as  the  trial  of  his  case  proceeds,  and  gives  a  shrewd 
hint  to  his  counsel.  I  remember  that  once  a  neigh- 
bor applied  for  my  services  in  prosecuting  a  claim 
against  another  neighbor.  The  amount  involved 
was  not  large,  but  the  costs,  it  soon  became  appar- 
ent, would  be  considerable  ;  so  it  was  important  to 
obtain  judgment  even  for  a  small  sum.  The  contest 


1 66  LEGACY    OF   AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

was  about  a  lot  of  morocco  skins,  which  could 
not  be  produced  for  inspection.  It  was  necessary 
to  prove  them  to  have  been  of  a  particularly  valua- 
ble kind,  a  thing  that  it  seemed  impossible  for  us 
to  do.  As  the  case  appeared  to  be  going  against 
us,  my  client  whispered,  asking  whether  if  he  could 
produce  one  of  the  skins  in  a  partly  worn  condition 
it  would  be  of  any  avail.  I  told  him  to  hurry  off 
and  get  it,  in  whatever  condition.  He  presently 
returned  with  a  dilapidated  and  besmeared  black- 
smith apron.  The  experts  were  recalled,  and  every 
one  unhesitatingly  declared  it  to  be  of  the  kind  we 
were  contending  for,  saying  they  could  tell  that 
kind  of  skin  under  any  circumstances.  Judgment 
was  quickly  rendered  in  our  favor. 

A  year  or  two  after  I  met  that  same  client,  and  he 
asked  if  I  remembered  about  the  old  blacksmith 
apron  that  gave  us  our  case.  I  told  him  I  did.  He 
then  said  he  would  tell  me  a  secret  about  it ;  which 
secret  simply  was,  that  he  knew  a  neighboring 
blacksmith  who  had  an  apron  that  he  boastfully 
claimed  was  made  of  a  valuable  kind  of  skin,  and 
ventured  to  borrow  it.  "  But,"  said  he,  "  I  did  not 
know  it  was  one  of  the  lot  in  question,  or  like  them  ; 
and  neither  the  counsel  on  the  other  side  nor  any 
one  else  thought  to  ask  me  if  it  was.  All  of  you 
took  it  for  granted  that  it  was  one  of  the  lot,  and  had 
I  been  asked  I  should  have  been  obliged  to  say  I 
did  not  know ;  then  our  case  would  have  gone 
by  the  board.  I  was  not  going,  voluntarily,  to  give 
our  case  away." 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  167 

A  rather  amusing  instance  of  shrewd  conception 
of  a  certain  human  trait,  though  not  exactly  of  the 
character  of  the  foregoing,  occurred  soon  after  I 
commenced  practice.  A  client,  whom  I  knew  to 
entertain  a  singular  distrust  of  the  integrity  of  all 
people  of  a  certain  religious  denomination,  came 
into  my  office,  one  Saturday  morning,  and  giving 
me  the  necessary  details  about  a  piece  of  land  he 
had  just  purchased  of  a  neighbor,  asked  me  to 
make  out  a  deed,  and  not  fail  to  have  it  ready  early 
in  the  afternoon,  as  the  grantor  had  agreed  to  come 
in  at  that  time  and  execute  it.  He  said  he  was 
very  particular  to  have  it  done  at  once,  and  urged 
me  to  be  sure  and  have  him  sign  it  before  he  left ; 
saying  that  he  knew  him  to  be  timid  about  signing 

documents,  and  moreover  was  a  strong ,  that 

the  next  day  was  Sunday,  and  he  would  go  to  meet- 
ing and  sit  all  the  time  brooding  over  the  negotia- 
tion, and  be  sure  to  finally  conclude  to  back  out 
from  his  bargain ;  adding  that  he  well  knew  how 

it  was  with  all as  he  had  been  one  himself.  I 

told  him  I  would  endeavor  to  do  as  he  desired, 
though  I  knew  the  man  was  hard  to  move  from  any 
fixed  purpose. 

The  man  came  in  promptly.  The  deed  was 
ready,  he  looked  it  over  very  carefully  and  said  he 
believed  it  was  all  right  and  according  to  agree- 
ment. After  hesitating  a  while,  he  said  he  thought 
he  would  not  sign  it  then,  as  it  would  do  as  well  on 
Monday.  I  told  him  the  grantee  was  very  desirous 
of  having  the  matter  finished  at  once ;  and  if,  as 


1 68  -LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

he  said,  the  deed  was  all  right,  delay  seemed  un- 
necessary. After  a  little  parleying  he  signed  and 
left.  Presently  the  grantee  came  in ;  I  gave  him 
the  deed,  and  he  also  left ;  not,  however,  before 
remarking,  "  Now  you  see  if  he  don't  come  in  on 
Monday  morning  and  try  to  get  the  document  back. 
I  know  he  will,  for  he  will  have  the  forenoon  and 
afternoon  meetings  to  attend  to-morrow,  and  nothing 
but  this  transaction  will  occupy  his  mind." 

Sure  enough,  early  on  Monday  morning,  the 
grantor  did  appear,  and,  in  almost  pitiable  anxiety, 
asked  if  I  had  delivered  the  deed.  I  told  him  I 
had,  within  an  hour  after  he  left  on  Saturday ;  that 
the  grantee  came  in  for  it,  and  probably  immedi- 
ately sent  it  away  for  record.  "  O,  I  'm  very  sorry 
for  that,"  he  replied;  "I've  been  thinking  the 
whole  matter  over,  and  am  much  afraid  I  was  too 
hasty !  " 

Among  the  most  aggravating  things  that  a  law- 
yer has  to  contend  against  are  the  wiles  of  shrewd 
but  absolutely  dishonest  parties.  A  very  honest 
landlord  once  applied  for  my  services  in  the  en- 
deavor to  collect  a  considerable  amount  of  rent 
from  a  tenant.  He  submitted  a  carefully  prepared 
account  of  the  amount  due  and  the  payments  that 
had  been  made.  We  could  do  nothing  but  bring 
a  suit.  And  when  the  trial  came  on,  greatly  to  our 
surprise,  a  claim  was  made  that  the  rent  was  over- 
paid. I  knew  there  was  some  trick  but  could  not 
tell  just  where.  The  trial  proceeded.  The  tenancy 
and  time  of  occupation  were  admitted.  Then  came 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  169 

the  defence.  An  array  of  receipts  for  rent  were 
produced,  which  the  landlord  admitted  to  be  genuine. 
Then  a  witness  was  called  to  testify  to  other  pay- 
ments when  no  receipts  were  given.  Together, 
they  did  show  a  balance  in  favor  of  the  tenant.  I 
asked  my  client  how  he  could  account  for  their 
showing.  But  he  seemed  a  little  confused,  and 
could  only  persist  in  declaring  that  he  was  right. 
I  questioned  the  witness  pretty  closely,  and  could 
not  doubt  that  he  was  perfectly  honest.  Suddenly 
a  solution  occurred  to  me.  And  I  was  not  long  in 
establishing  the  fact  that  the  tenant,  who  was  a 
shoemaker,  would  now  and  then,  as  the  landlord 
happened  in  his  shop,  offer  him  a  few  dollars  of 
the  back  rent.  The  landlord  would,  of  course, 
gladly  accept  the  offered  money,  and  say  that  he 
would  give  a  receipt  if  he  had  a  pen  at  hand.  "  O, 
no,"  the  tenant  would  reply,  "no  matter  about  a 
receipt ;  we  are  honest  men,  and  will  not  cheat 
each  other ;  and  besides,  the  man  at  work  there 
will  bear  in  mind  that  I  pay  you  such  an  amount  at 
this  date."  The  man's  attention  would  be  called 
to  the  transaction,  and  perhaps  he  would  make  a 
memorandum.  Some  days  after,  as  the  landlord 
again  happened  in,  the  tenant,  in  the  absence  of 
the  witness,  would  say,  "  You  recollect  I  paid  you 
so  much  on  such  a  day,  and  did  not  take  a  receipt. 
Perhaps,  to  prevent  all  future  misunderstanding,  you 
may  as  well  give  me  a  receipt  now."  Then  he 
would  write  one,  dating  it  not  on  the  day  the  pay- 
ment was  made,  but  on  that  present  day,  and  the 


170  '    LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

other  would  unsuspectingly  sign  it.  Thus  the  one 
payment  was  made  to  count  as  two  —  the  one  testi- 
fied to  by  the  witness,  and  the  other  as  indicated 
by  the  receipt.  And  in  that  manner  the  cheat  had 
been  carried  on  till  an  actual  balance  in  favor  of 
the  tenant  was  made  to  appear.  As  soon  as  I  was 
satisfied  of  the  fraud,  I  boldly  charged  it  upon  the 
rogue,  and  his  silence  and  shamefacedness  were 
sufficient  to  give  us  the  case. 


AFTER  retiring  from  the  Police  Court,  August 
24,  1879,  I  opened  a  law  office  near  the  City  Hall, 
and  did  a  quiet  business  for  two  or  three  years. 
Then  I  took  a  foreign  trip  of  a  few  months,  visit- 
ing England,  France,  Belgium,  some  of  the  Med- 
iterranean countries  and  Egypt,  arriving  home  Jan- 
uary 21,  1884,  greatly  refreshed. 

Having  returned  from  my  foreign  trip  and  being 
of  an  age  when  business  cares  begin  to  weigh 
heavily,  I  did  but  little  law  business ;  only  such  as 
seemed  rather  to  force  itself  upon  me.  At  inter- 
vals, also,  I  busied  myself  with  my  pen,  largely 
on  historical  subjects.  And  still  retaining  my  love 
for  the  printer's  case,  I  kept  in  a  convenient  back 
room  a  font  or  two  of  type,  and  there  spent  many 
pleasant  hours  in  putting  in  type  pages  of  cogita- 
tions, sometimes  without  the  irksome  labor  of  first 
committing  them  to  paper. 


LEGACY  OF  AN  OCTOGENARIAN.       Ifl 
AN  OCTOGENARIAN. 

ON  CHRISTMAS  DAY,  1889,  I  had  the  extreme 
pleasure  of  meeting,  by  invitation,  a  large  number 
of  my  fellow  citizens,  in  the  Mayor's  room,  City 
Hall,  who  assembled  to  extend  to  me  their  greetings, 
as  on  that  day  I  completed  my  four-score  years. 

And  again,  on  the  evening  of  the  second  of 
January,  1890,  in  recognition  of  the  same  event, 
my  brethren  of  the  bar  did  me  the  honor  of  request- 
ing my  presence  at  a  banquet  in  a  hall  on  Market 
street.  Feeling  that  on  this  occasion  I  should  be 
expected  to  make  some  remarks,  I  prepared  a  brief 
paper,  from  which  an  extract  or  two  may  not  im- 
properly be  here  introduced. 

"  On  the  occasion  of  the  dedication  of  the  City 
Hall,  Nov.  30,  1867,  Hon.  Thomas  B.  Newhall, 
being  introduced  by  Mayor  Usher,  remarked  in 
his  expressive  undertone  on  laying  aside  his  over- 
coat, '  I  take  off  my  coat,  but  I  hope  you  will  not 
take  that  as  an  indication  of  any  extended  remarks 
from  me.'  So  now,  as  I  take  in  hand  a  few  writ- 
ten notes,  I  hope  those  present  will  not  take  it  as 
an  indication  that  I  propose  inflicting  anything  like 
an  extended  address.  Written  notes  often  prevent 
undue  rambling  and  the  introduction  of  inappro- 
priate matter. 

"I  know  that  you  will  believe  me,  brethren  of 
the  bar,  when  I  say  that  I  am  deeply  touched  by 
this  expression  of  your  kindly  feeling.  And  I  can 
but  look  upon  your  greetings  as  I  did  upon  the 


172  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

neighborly  greetings  at  the  City  Hall  on  Christmas 
Day,  as  among  the  choicest  experiences  of  my  life. 
Yes,  I  have  arrived  at  four-score  years.  It  is  a 
good  old  age ;  half  a  score  beyond  the  common 
limit  of  human  life. 

"  It  can  readily  be  conceived  that  men  who  are 
subject  to  continual  physical  pain  should  feel  im- 
patient, and  under  incurable  disease  wish  to  be 
released.  I  was  strikingly  reminded  of  this  when 
some  time  since  I  called  upon  an  aged  friend,  who 
had  passed  the  four-score  bound,  but  who  was  sur- 
rounded by  every  comfort  that  wealth  or  social 
position  could  give.  During  our  conversation  he 
several  times  referred  to  his  physical  sufferings. 
And  finally,  as  I  was  bidding  him  good-bye,  he 
remarked  in  pathetic  earnestness  that,  on  the  whole, 
he  wished  there  was  a  law  of  the  Commonwealth 
decreeing  that  no  man  should  be  permitted  to  live 
beyond  the  age  of  seventy.  Now  this  was  a  man 
who  had  led  an  eminently  respectable,  and  I  may 
say  successful,  life  ;  one  who  could,  no  doubt,  have 
recalled  many  and  many  a  bright  passage.  But  he 
was  so  worn  by  physical  suffering  that  his  thoughts 
could  not  be  fixed  on  the  higher  and  better  features, 
where  calm  endurance  if  not  actual  happiness  was 
to  be  found. 

"Probably  no  one  who  has  reached  the  age 
spoken  of  can  look  back  and  not  see  passages 
wherein  more  satisfactory  results  would  have  been 
secured  had  a  different  course  been  pursued.  But 
to  no  man  is  given  the  power  to  see  what  future 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  173 

results  may  flow  from  present  action,  and  hence  it  is 
idle  to  mourn  for  what  one  fancies  might  have  been. 

"  In  the  absence  of  extreme  physical  suffering 
why  should  not  old  age  be  highly  enjoyable?  The 
cares  and  perplexities  of  business  life  have  'lost 
their  influence,  and  their  interest,  in  any  controlling 
degree,  and  one  begins  to  look  back  upon  them  as 
frivolous  dreams,  wondering  that  they  should  ever 
have  compromised  his  dignity  or  disturbed  his 
equanimity.  Wealth,  social  distinction,  public  hon- 
ors, all  appear  as  bubbles  dancing  away  on  the 
surface  of  time's  fast  ebbing  tide.  But  yet  where 
is  the  elderly  person  who,  in  the  hours  of  retire- 
ment, does  not  recall  bright  and  beautiful  pictures 
of  scenes  that  illumined  his  earlier  years,  and  on 
whose  memory  is  not  unfadingly  photographed  the 
lineaments  of  many  a  loved  one  whose  real  pres- 
ence comes  no  more  to  cheer? 

"  Have  not  old  people  some  resources  of  enjoy- 
ment unknown  to  the  young  ?  And  do  they  all  need 
the  pity  and  deserve  the  scorn  that  thoughtlessness 
or  arrogance  is  too  apt  to  bestow?  Recollection  as 
well  as  anticipation  is  usually  sweeter  than  fruition. 
And  it  must  be  a  barren  old  age  that  has  no  cheerful 
recollections  to  fall  back  upon. 

"  Let  me  refer  to  a  trifling  and  long-forgotten 
incident  that  was  a  few  days  ago  vividly  recalled 
to  my  own  mind,  and  which  opened  an  avenue  of 
pleasing  remembrances  extending  away  back  to 
boyhood. 

"  On  the  dubious  October  day,  in  1821,  when  I 


174  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

left  my  father's  house  to  begin  a  destined  career  of 
self-support,  at  the  evening  meal  in  my  new  home 
was  a  young  girl,  who,  during  my  subsequent  period 
of  intense  home-sickness  tried  her  utmost  in  sympa- 
thetic and  girlish  ways  to  relieve  my  misery.  That, 
it  will  be  observed,  was  about  seventy  years  ago. 
But  I  can,  even  at  this  far-off  time,  think  of  her 
only  as  a  bright,  laughing,  good-natured  school 
girl.  She  has  for  some  fifty  years  been  a  resident 
of  another  State.  And  the  incident  which  brought 
her  so  forcibly  to  mind  was  in  receiving  from  her 
a  large  box  of  substantial  clothing  for  the  suffer- 
ers by  our  late  disastrous  fire. 

"Yes,  it  is  often  that  a  mine  of  rich  memories 
is  opened  by  some  slight  occurrence.  And  he  who 
has  reached  his  three-score  and  ten  even,  and  has 
no  bright  memories,  no  such  vivifying  resources,  is 
groping  in  dreary  and  pitiable  darkness. 

"  A  few  days  ago  I  met  a  gentleman  on  Market 
street,  who,  pointing  to  an  electric  car  then  passing, 
asked  what  I  imagined  Franklin  would  think  could 
he  return  and  see  such  an  exhibition  of  the  wonder- 
ful and  mysterious  power  of  electricity,  of  which 
he  alone  of  all  the  philosophers  of  his  time  seemed 
to  have  any  just  conception.  It  was  a  pertinent 
question,  and  what  think,  my  hearers,  really  would 
be  his  thoughts? 

"  We  are  very  apt,  when  considering  any  of  the 
great  discoveries  and  inventions  of  this  remarkable 
age,  to  ask  with  what  wonder  the  old  settlers,  could 
they  return,  would  view  the  achievements.  But  do 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  175 

we  realize  that  things  are  still  progressing  with 
equal,  if  not  accelerated  march?  And  is  it  not 
quite  as  profitable  and  interesting  to  attempt  a  glance 
into  the  future  as  into  the  past?  What  will  be  the 
aspect  a  couple  of  centuries  hence  ?  one  may  as  well 
ask  as  what  it  was  a  couple  of  centuries  ago.  We 
have  suffered  a  great  calamity  by  fire.  But  all 
traces  of  the  disaster  will  probably  have  disappeared 
in  a  score  of  years.  And  after  a  few  added  years, 
the  memory  of  the  grievous  occurrence  will  almost 
have  faded  away  from  public  recollection,  unless, 
perhaps,  some  enduring  monument  may  be  reared 
to  mark  the  spot  where  so  many  fond  hopes  and 
inflated  expectations  were  blasted.  In  the  heart  of 
great  London,  for  more  than  two  centuries,  a  tower- 
ing shaft  has  commemorated  the  destructive  confla- 
gration of  1666.  And  should  Lynn  erect  some 
modest  but  enduring  reminder  of  her  fearful  ex- 
perience of  1889,  ft  mignt  be  a  silent  but  eloquent 
admonisher  for  generations  to  come.  It  can  hardly 
be  imagined  that  any  monument  Lynn  might  rear 
would  for  many  years  look  down  upon  a  population 
of  millions  at  its  feet,  like  that  of  London.  But  it 
would  stand  as  a  beacon  light  to  warn  against  any 
fancied  immunity  from  the  ravages  of  untrust- 
worthy elements.  It  is  ardently  to  be  hoped  that 
some  such  reminder  may  be  reared.  In  our  glance 
at  the  future  we  can  well  imagine  that  the  district 
now  in  ruins  will  be  a  region  of  buildings  substantial 
and  beautiful,  filling  all  the  requirements  of  a  thrifty, 
wealthy  and  enterprising  people. 


176  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

"  There  are  other  things  that  the  people  of  Lynn 
may  be  gratified  in  anticipating.  And  conspicuous 
among  them  is  the  projected  Forest  Park,  compris- 
ing wild  territory  still  known  as  Lynn  Woods,  but 
destined  to  become  a  place  of  boundless  enjoyment 
to  people  of  all  degrees,  for  generations  yet  to 
come,  and  many  a  throb  of  gratitude  for  the  fore- 
sight that  planned,  and  the  liberality  that  executed, 
such  a  noble  work  will  be  felt.  Few  of  the  present 
generation  will  probably  live  to  see  the  full-orbed 
beauty  of  that  romantic  domain  ;  but  the  oldest  may 
witness  a  beginning,  and  all  may  unhesitatingly 
anticipate  satisfactory  progress,  considering  the 
faithful  and  energetic  hands  in  which  the  matter  at 
present  rests.  To  the  philanthropic  mind  there  is 
eminent  satisfaction  in  doing  something  to  give 
rational  and  enduring  pleasure  to  those  who  may 
succeed  him  in  the  toils  of  life. 

"  Did  belief  in  the  old  mythology  prevail,  some 
of  us,  who  can  expect  to  remain  here  but  a  very 
small  remnant  of  time,  might  rejoice  in  the  thought 
that  we  may  be  permitted  in  far-off  times,  in  spirit 
to  revisit  those  shady  dells  and  sunny  heights,  to 
mark  the  musing  walk  of  poet  or  philosopher ;  to 
listen  to  the  gratulations  of  friendship  and  the  ten- 
der lisps  of  love.  But  in  these  matter-of-fact  times, 
one  who,  like  myself,  must  own  up  to  four-score 
years,  can  only  indulge,  for  the  brief  remainder  of 
his  days,  in  the  pleasure  of  imagining  what  the 
future  has  in  store.  Sometimes  I  have  queried  as 
to  what  will  be  the  aspect  of  the  Public  Forest  when 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  177 

another  eighty  years  have  rolled  away.  But  the 
answer  can  only  come  to  me  beyond  the  vale. 

"  But  this  topic  must  be  left  with  the  single  sug- 
gestion that  it  needs  no  fevered  imagination  to  sup- 
ply many  bright  passages  in  such  an  excursion  into 
the  regions  of  the  future  —  the  future,  which  will 
as  surely  come  as  the  past  has  been.  To  the  young 
belong  the  joys  of  anticipation  ;  to  the  old,  the  two- 
fold joys  of  recollection  and  anticipation. 

"  In  view  of  the  present  large  number  of  the 
brotherhood  now  practising  in  Lynn,  may  I  ask,  do 
we  fully  realize  the  position  we  occupy,  the  influ- 
ence we  do  or  should  exert?  I  know  very  well 
what  is  said  about  the  duties  of  lawyers  to  their 
clients,  and  I  know,  too,  that  divers  baleful  max- 
ims are  in  vogue.  But  it  is  pleasant  to  believe  that 
no  pernicious  rule  is  permitted  to  hold  sway  here  — 
that  no  member  of  this  goodly  association,  young 
or  old,  can  be  found  to  so  identify  himself  with  a 
corrupt  client  as  for  a  moment  to  sink  true  manhood, 
or  compromise  honor  or  integrity.  Lawyers,  per- 
haps more  than  any  other  class,  are  made  to  bear 
the  sins  of  others ;  and  they  are  often  so  circum- 
stanced that  they  must  bear  them  with  silent  sub- 
mission. The  public  cannot  know  how  frequently 
they  are  the  victims  of  deceitful  clients,  or  how 
many  take  a  vulgar  pride  in  practising  deceits  upon 
them,  how  often  bitter  taunts  are  their  only  fee 
for  standing  firmly  between  vicious  demands  and 
humane  principles. 

"  I  most  cordially  wish  the  young  gentlemen  of 


178  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

the  Lynn  bar  —  with  several  of  whom,  I  am  sorry 
to  say,  I  have  not  yet  had  the  pleasure  of  a  person- 
al acquaintance  —  the  most  abundant  professional 
success.  But  in  view  of  what  has  been  said,  there 
may  be  those  outside  of  the  profession  who  would 
count  the  success  of  a  lawyer  a  detriment  to  the 
community.  So,  in  deference  to  such,  if  there  are 
any,  let  me  qualify  the  wish,  and  express  the  earn- 
est hope  that  they  may  abundantly  prosper  in  all 
good  ivays.  If  they  do  not  choose  the  fair,  the 
honest,  the  upright,  the  manly  way,  they  may  be 
assured  that  no  mere  pecuniary  success  will  give 
comfort  when  their  heads  are  whitening. 

"  One  may  not  be  the  best  judge  of  his  own  acts, 
though  he  may  be  the  best  judge  of  his  motives. 
And  a  lawyer  who  has  gained  the  height  of  three- 
score years  and  ten,  and  can  look  back  and  con- 
scientiously say  he  has  done  nothing  that  can  war- 
rant disturbing  regrets,  is  certainly  in  a  beatific 
atmosphere.  But  none  need  expect  to  escape  criti- 
cism however  pure  his  motives  or  blameless  his 
life  ;  for  there  will  always  be  traducers  whose  minds 
are  swayed  by  '  envy,  hatred,  and  all  uncharitable- 
ness.' 

"To  a  person  advanced  in  years,  few  things  are 
more  gratifying  than  the  continued  friendship  of 
those  in  whose  company  he  has  for  many  years 
pursued  life's  journey.  And  when  to  the  ranks  of 
earlier  friends  have  all  along  been  added  new  and 
younger  recruits,  the  gratification  is  much  enhanced. 
And  when  those  old  and  new  friends  concur  in 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  179 

expressions  of  kindly  remembrance,  kindly  greeting 
and  assurances  that  his  company  has  not  been  dis- 
agreeable, it  is  hard  to  set  bounds  to  the  gratifica- 
tion. Think,  then,  my  brethren  and  friends,  what 
must  be  my  feelings  at  the  present  moment ;  I  beg 
you  to  realize  my  position  and  accept  my  profound 
acknowledgements  for  this  most  pleasurable  greet- 
ing, as  well  those  who  have  joined  the  legal  ranks 
in  these  latter  days,  as  those  with  whom  for  nearly 
two-score  years  I  have  traveled  on  professionally. 
To  be  recognized  in  this  way,  as  a  member  of  so 
intelligent  and  respectable  a  body  as  the  present  bar 
of  Lynn,  may  well  justify  a  feeling  of  pride.  I 
can  only  look  upon  it  as  an  undeserved,  as  it  cer- 
tainly is  an  unexpected,  honor. 

"  But  I  must  not  further  trespass  on  your  patience. 
And  after  cordially  thanking  you  for  this  kind  man- 
ifestation of  your  good-will,  brethren  of  the  bar, 
let  me  simply  add  that  I  take  no  pride  in  calling 
myself  an  octogenarian,  for  I  have  not  had  the 
power  to  accelerate  or  impede  the  course  of  time, 
which,  in  spite  of  me,  has  continued  to  jog  along 
after  the  same  old  sort.  Some  of  you,  I  dare  say, 
will  reach  this  outpost  of  human  life.  I  hope  all 
of  you  will,  if  you  so  desire.  I  hope,  too,  that  you 
may  be  blessed  with  the  good  degree  of  health  that 
has  fallen  to  my  lot.  And  especially  do  I  hope 
that  when  you  reach  that  bound,  be  you  still  at  the 
bar  or  on  the  bench,  you  will  see  no  dark  spots  in 
the  retrospect ;  that  the  ghost  of  no  injured  client 
or  oppressed  fellow-man  of  any  name  may  rise  to 


l8o  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

terrorize  ;  that  the  memory  of  neglected  duties  may 
never  come  to  disturb ;  and  finally,  that  the  last 
entry  in  the  great  docket  above  may  be  one  of  ap- 
proval, and  the  judgment  be  that  you  enter  into  the 
everlasting  joys  prepared  for  all  those  who  can  give 
an  acceptable  account  of  the  talents  confided  to 
them,  be  they  lawyers  or  laymen." 

At  the  conclusion,  the  presiding  officer  called 
upon  William  H.  Niles,  Esq.,  Hon.  William  D. 
Northend,  Hon.  John  W.  Berry,  and  Joseph  F. 
Hannan,  Esq.,  whose  responses  were  delivered  in 
the  happiest  vein. 


THE  members  of  the  Lynn  Press  likewise  ex- 
tended the  honor  of  an  invitation  to  a  banquet  at 
Young's  Hotel,  Boston,  on  the  evening  of  January 
17,  1890.  Not  being  able  to  attend,  I  felt  it  a  duty 
to  say  a  few  thankful  words,  by  letter,  in  response, 
remarking  that  I  hoped  the  invitation  was  not  given 
solely  because  I  had  reached  the  age  of  four-score 
years,  but  in  a  measure  at  least  because  my  long 
life  was  thought  to  have  been  fruitful  of  some  good, 
though  I  could  not  exactly  see  wherein  the  virtue 
lay  excepting,  perhaps,  in  the  endeavor.  As  the 
"  days  of  our  years  "are  not  determined  by  ourselves, 
one  has  no  occasion  to  feel  either  vain  or  abased  on 
the  score  of  age.  The  brethren  of  the  craft  were 
assured  that  among  my  most  pleasing  recollections 
were  those  of  the  printing  office,  and  that  I  still 
loved  to  trace  the  careers  of  some  of  my  early  co- 
workers  there  —  careers  that  had  then  with  hardly 


LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN.  l8l 

an  exception  ended  ;  that  I  was  able  to  follow  some 
to  eminence  in  literature ;  some  to  high  positions  in 
social  life ;  some  to  political  distinction ;  and  one, 
at  least,  to  the  dignity  of  a  millionaire ;  but  that 
there  were  others  who  took  the  course  that  led  to 
indigence,  ignominy,  and  even  to  penal  servitude  — 
in  which  latter  paths  it  was  ardently  hoped  none 
present  would  ever  be  found. 

IN  CLOSING  this,  the  First  Part  of  the  Volume,  it 
may  not  be  inappropriate  to  say  a  few  words  by 
way  of  explanation  or  of  apology,  as  may  be 
thought  most  needful  by  different  readers. 

As  to  the  Biographical  Notices  scattered  through 
the  pages,  it  may  be  remarked  that  truthfulness  has 
been  the  leading  purpose.  It  is  quite  common  in 
such  sketches,  as  they  appear  in  the  publications  of 
our  day,  to  laud  every  one  who  has  passed  away 
as  without  blemish,  whatever  his  faults  or  failings 
may  have  been.  This,  on  its  face,  is  untruthful,  for 
no  one  passes  through  the  battles  of  life  unscathed. 
It  is  as  misleading  as  the  epitaphs  on  gravestones, 
which  have  become  proverbially  illusive.  Nothing, 
most  certainly,  should  be  set  down  in  malice,  and 
all  reasonable  extenuation  is  doubtless  justifiable. 
Did  not  Plutarch,  that  most  eminent  delineator, 
paint  his  characters  as  they  were?  And  is  it  not  this 
fact  that  gives  such  interest  and  value  to  his  portrait- 
ures? And  then  does  not  the  Bible  depict  the 
foibles  and  vices  of  some  of  the  most  noble  of 
our  race?  Notice,  for  example,  what  it  says  of 


l82  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

the  ardent  but  saintly  Peter  —  that  he  not  only 
basely  denied  his  Master,  but  garnished  the  denial 
with  cursing  and  swearing.  The  fact  is,  the  sacred 
writers  assumed  that  readers  would  know  enough 
of  human  nature  to  realize  that  all  have  failings, 
and  that  it  is  well  to  avoid  discouragements  to  virtue 
by  giving  only  examples  in  which  no  mixture  of  vice 
appears.  Nowhere  are  the  vices  presented  for 
imitation  ;  but  everywhere  are  the  virtues  extolled. 

Are  the  most  dignified  of  men  always  in  the 
sombre  mood  ?  They  are  to  be  pitied  if  they  are  ; 
and  are  rather  clouds  than  sunshine  on  life's  land- 
scape. A  perception  of  true  wit  is  one  of  the  high- 
est, most  delectable  and  useful  of  our  intellectual 
endowments ;  and  the  greatest  and  best  of  men  on 
proper  occasions  do  not  fail  to  give  it  play. 

No  reader,  it  is  hoped,  has  been  offended,  if  here 
and  there  he  has  found  delineated  a  character  in 
which  the  humorous  traits  have  preponderated,  nor 
any  aggrieved  that  more  sphinx-like  gravity  has 
been  made  conspicuous.  The  fact  is,  mirth  and 
gloom  are  very  much  mixed  in  this  world  of  ours. 
Joseph  and  his  brethren  shed  tears  when  they  be- 
came known  to  each  other  in  Egypt ;  but  can  it  be 
doubted  that  they  had  hearty  laughs  together  when 
they  talked  over  the  manner  in  which  the  nefarious 
attempts  in  the  desert  were  thwarted? 


PART    II. 
NOTES  OF  TRAVEL. 


PART  II.  —  Notes  of  Travel. 


CHAPTER   I. 

OVER  THE  SEA  NEW  YORK  TO  LONDON. 

IN  LONDON. 

{SAILED  from  New  York  on  the  morning  of 
the  5th  of  September,  1883,  in  the  steamship 
Erin,  of  the  National  line  ;  not  a  very  fast  sailer, 
to  be  sure,  but  large  and  having  good  accommoda- 
tions. A  shade  of  chagrin  was  naturally  felt  as 
another  English  steamer,  and  also  an  Italian,  which 
left  their  docks  at  the  same' time,  soon  distanced  us 
and  faded  away  on  the  horizon.  However  we 
were  not  on  a  race,  and  could  forgive  them. 

The  passage  was  a  remarkably  favorable  one. 
With  the  exception  of  a  couple  of  rainy  days  and 
a  smart  thunder  shower  when  near  the  Gulf  Stream, 
we  experienced  no  elemental  violence. 

After  the  first  day  or  two  out,  we  scarcely  met  a 
vessel  of  any  kind  till  nearing  the  British  coast, 
though  now  and  then,  as  a  fog  set  in,  the  steam- 
whistle  sent  its  admonitory  notes  over  the  watery 
waste,  in  warning,  perhaps*  to  such  icebergs  and 
whales  as  might  be  disporting  in  our  path.  A  large 
number  of  the  pretty  little  birds  known  as  Mother 
Gary's  chickens  followed  close  along  in  our  wake 
for  more  than  a  thousand  miles,  picking  up  such 


1 86  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

refuse  food  as  was  thrown  from  the  cook-room 
ports. 

During  the  whole  passage  we  experienced  no 
severity  of  weather,  or  violence  of  sea,  that  would 
compare  with  what  I  have  repeatedly  experienced 
in  Long  Island  Sound.  And  the  beautiful  moon- 
light nights  and  mild  breezes  were  enough  to  make 
one  almost  in  love  with  ocean  life. 

Two  or  three  elderly  English  gentlemen  who  had 
traveled  the  world  over,  a  Quaker  missionary  who 
had  led  a  wandering  life  over  the  United  States, 
Great  Britain,  India  and  Australia,  and  whose  ob- 
serving mind  was  richly  stored  with  all  sorts  of 
information,  and  who  had  a  remarkable  faculty,  in 
a  quaint  and  humorous  way,  of  imparting  knowl- 
edge, an  English  printer,  a  Frenchman,  a  young 
Vienna  doctor,  and  a  poet  or  philosopher,  as  from 
his  taciturn  habits  I  judged  him  to  be,  formed  chiefly 
the  male  portion  of  our  happy  family.  There  were 
also  some  half  dozen  ladies,  and  two  or  three 
romping  children  ;  to  say  nothing  of  a  couple  of 
frisky  kittens  whose  right  on  board  was  not  disputed, 
as  it  was  their  native  place. 

There  was  scarcely  any  pretence  of  sea-sickness  ; 
and  some  of  the  ladies  even  wished  that  there  might 
be  a  little  more  turmoil  of  the  elements. 

In  the  cosy  little  saloon  on  deck,  after  the  even- 
ing promenade,  most  of  the  gentlemen  were  accus- 
tomed to  assemble  for  social  intercourse,  and  such 
as  were  given  that  way  held  communion  with  their 
pipes.  We  all  gave  unreserved  attention  to  our 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  187 

Quaker  friend,  when  he  related  his  odd  experiences  ; 
and  nothing  could  be  more  entertaining  than  some 
of  his  adventures  and  shrewd  delineations  of  char- 
acters he  had  fallen  in  with.  He  said  he  loved 
music,  had  led  a  choir,  and  thought  it  ought  to  be 
introduced  into  the  Friends'  Meetings. 

Upon  the  two  Sundays  we  spent  on  "the  great 
deep,"  the  ship's  bell  was  tolled  for  divine  service  at 
ten  o'clock,  and  the  Captain,  in  his  full,  strong 
voice,  read  the  Church  of  England  service,  varied 
a  little  to  suit  the  circumstances,  and  praying  for 
"  Her  Majesty,  the  Queen,  the  President  of  the 
United  States,  and  all  others  in  authority."  He 
did  not  even  omit  to  pronounce  the  absolution. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  second  Sunday  we  came 
in  sight  of  land,  and  entered  the  British  Channel. 
The  next  afternoon  we  passed  the  Isle  of  Wight, 
which  is  much  visited  during  the  watering  season, 
especially  by  the  gentry,  as  a  residence  of  the  Qjieen 
—  Osborne  House  —  is  here.  Its  white  cliffs,  ver- 
dant fields,  and  dwellings  nestling  among  the  trees, 
gave  it  quite  a  picturesque  appearance. 

By  ten  o'clock  in  the  evening  we  passed  Hastings, 
its  long  array  of  brilliant  lights  near  the  shore 
giving  it  the  appearance  of  an  extended  beach,  in 
its  illuminated  night  dress.  The  dark,  woody 
heights  in  the  background  were  clearly  cut  in  the 
moonlight,  and  afforded  a  most  romantic  spectacle. 
Hastings  has  become  a  favorite  seaside  resort  and 
is  historically  interesting,  as  here  the  great  battle, 
known  as  the  battle  of  Hastings,  was  fought  in  1066, 


1 88  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

and  gave  to  England  the  Norman  sovereignty.  We 
soon  after  passed  Dover,  and  the  much-abused 
straits  which  are  such  a  terror  to  travellers  passing 
to  the  French  coast ;  but  at  this  time  the  sea  was 
as  calm  as  a  summer  morning,  and  no  one  thought 
of  being  sick. 

The  numerous  vessels  of  all  kinds  moving  about 
in  every  direction,  and  the  dense  fogs  which  so 
frequently  arise,  render  navigation  in  the  Thames 
extremely  hazardous.  But  every  precaution  is 
taken  by  government  to  lessen  the  dangers. 

In  the  afternoon  we  reached  the  Albert  Dock, 
and  were  soon  ashore  with  our  luggage,  and  under 
the  inspection  of  a  Custom  House  officer,  who  was 
extremely  civil  in  the  performance  of  his  duty. 
England,  being  an  essentially  free-trade  country, 
subjects  the  traveller  to  little  annoyance  in  respect 
to  duties.  After  a  little  delay  we  were  in  the  rail- 
road train  gliding  toward  our  proposed  stopping- 
place  in  the  great  city. 

Most  of  our  passengers  were  well  acquainted 
with  London,  and  gave  me  much  useful  informa- 
tion ;  one  aged  gentlemen  took  me  to  a  private 
hotel,  as  unlicensed  houses  here  are  called,  at  which 
he  was  accustomed  to  stop,  and  spent  the  whole 
evening  in  conducting  me  among  the  glittering 
sights  of  the  Strand.  Such  were  the  circumstances 
under  which  I  reached  London. 


NOTES  OF  TRAVEL.  189 


IN  LONDON. 

It  would  hardly  be  desirable  to  occupy  much 
space  in  describing  sights  and  scenes  in  the  world's 
great  metropolis,  as  all  readers  are  more  or  less 
familiar  with  its  principal  features  and  institutions. 
Yet,  at  least  a  few  of  the  more  notable  things  that 
usually  first  attract  the  stranger's  attention  should 
not  be  disregarded. 

WESTMINSTER    ABBEY. 

The  usual  daily  service  was  proceeding  when 
for  the  first  time  I  entered  this  venerable  sanctuary. 
It  is  largely  musical,  and  the  clear,  fresh  voices  of 
the  choir  boys  resounded  among  the  lofty  arches  in 
almost  angelic  harmony.  As  a  large  portion  of  the 
service  was  identical  with  that  of  our  own  St. 
Stephen's,  of  Lynn,  of  course  it  had  a  home  breath- 
ing influence.  After  the  service  we  strolled  all 
over  the  edifice  accompanied  by  a  Verger  who  was 
sufficiently  voluble  in  his  explanations,  and  ready 
to  answer  any  incidental  questions.  An  air  of  ven- 
erable antiquity  pervades  everything  here.  The 
ponderous  pillars  and  arches  are  stained  and  deeply 
eaten  into  by  the  tooth  of  time,  and  the  hoary  old 
stones  of  the  floors  are  grooved  and  broken  by  the 
tread  of  centuries.  While  threading  the  dark  and 
intricate  passages  it  was  easy  to  imagine  that  we 
must  assuredly  be  jostled  by  some  old  monk,  see 
him  telling  his  beads,  or  hear  the  brothers  chanting 
their  monotonous  strains.  Everything,  however, 


190  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

is  scrupulously  clean  and  in  perfect  order.  It  is  a 
rare  place  for  meditation ;  and  while  wandering 
through  the  richly  adorned  chapels  and  the  cheer- 
less dormitories,  solemn  and  weird  fancies  would 
naturally  intrude. 

As  I  leaned  with  my  elbow  upon  the  monumental 
tomb  of  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  the  beautiful,  the 
unfortunate,  the  erring,  it  was  impossible  to  avoid 
recalling  some  of  the  touching  incidents  of  her 
checkered  life.  And  when  in  the  British  Museum 
I  saw  the  prayer-book  she  held  in  her  hand  when 
she  laid  her  head  on  the  fatal  block,  the  same  train 
of  reflection  was  revived.  There  lies  her  dust,  and 
about  ten  yards  away  the  dust  of  Elizabeth  :  Eliza- 
beth the  strong,  the  politic,  the  austere,  the  almost 
malignant,  who  with  steady  hand  signed  the  war- 
rant for  her  death.  In  the  Chapel  of  Henry  the 
Seventh,  the  marble  effigy  of  Sophia,  daughter  of 
James  the  First,  who  lived  but  three  days,  lies  in 
its  marble  cradle.  And  while  I  was  looking  upon 
it  a  little  girl,  the  daughter  of  a  visitor,  with  child- 
like curiosity  climbed  upon  the  edge  and  seemed 
about  to  kiss  the  cold  face,  not  realizing  that  it  had 
lain  there  two  hundred  years,  when  her  attendant 
took  her  away.  Observing  the  effigy  of  a  «*  Lady 
St.  John,"  I  asked  the  Verger  if  he  could  tell  me 
whether  she  was  of  the  noble  family  of  St.  John, 
meaning  that  to  which  England's  Chief  Justice 
during  the  Commonwealth  belonged,  whose  sister 
was  wife  of  Rev.  Mr.  Whiting,  an  early  and  re- 
vered minister  of  Lynn,  and  who  was  ancestor  of 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  19! 

the  now  extensive  and  reputable  American  Whiting 
family.  But  the  Verger  knew  nothing  about  that. 

In  the  Chapel  of  St.  Edward  are  the  Coronation 
Chairs,  the  most  noticeable  one  being  the  stout  old 
wooden  affair  in  which  all  the  Kings  and  Queens, 
since  Edward  the  First,  have  been  crowned.  It 
looks  much  like  some  of  the  antique  trumpery  in 
which  our  American  old  furniture  dealers  now 
drive  such  a  trade.  But  the  Verger  was  careful  to 
inform  us  that  when  Queen  Victoria  sat  in  it  to  re- 
ceive the  crown,  it  was  covered  with  a  cloth  of  gold. 
And  he  pointed  out  the  exact  spot  on  which  it  was 
placed  during  the  august  ceremony.  Beneath  it 
rests  a  stone  which  is  said  to  have  been  Jacob's  pil- 
low, and  was  brought  from  Scotland  some  six  hun- 
dred years  ago. 

The  Poet's  Corner  is  interesting,  for  there  we  see 
effigies  and  tablets  in  memory  of  many  of  the  great 
lights  of  English  literature  whose  works  are  as 
enduring  as  the  marbles.  But  it  is  not  the  poets 
alone  whose  memories  are  here  embalmed  ;  histori- 
ans, divines,  and  philosophers  are  in  the  noble  com- 
pany. It  is  a  rare  place  for  meditation  on  the 
greatness  as  well  as  the  vanity  of  human  life. 
While  standing  there  I  could  recall  the  names  of 
many  who  had  adorned  their  country's  annals,  but 
of  whom  no  record  appears  :  and  I  saw  the  names 
of  others  who  I  thought  did  no  honor  to  the  glori- 
ous company.  I  was  amused  at  the  dexterity  with 
which  the  Verger,  when  he  pointed  out  the  spot 
where  Cromwell's  body  was  laid,  avoided  any 


192  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

allusion  to  the  exhuming  and  desecrating  at  the  time 
of  the  Restoration.  The  English  are  thoroughly 
ashamed  of  what  was  done  when  the  political  reac- 
tion took  place  —  as  they  ought  to  be.  While  I 
was  looking  at  the  tablet  of  John  and  Charles  Wes- 
ley, an  old  gentleman,  evidently  a  good  churchman, 
in  theory  at  least,  said  to  me,  "There,  I  have  al- 
ways contended  that  the  Church  of  England  was 
the  most  liberal  of  all  Christian  bodies.  Do  you 
think  the  Methodists  would  place,  in  their  most 
sacred  edifice,  the  effigy  of  a  Churchman  who  had 
done  all  he  could  to  tarnish  their  good  fame?  " 

THE    OLD    STREETS. 

In  describing  some  of  the  old  London  streets, 
and  viewing  famous  historical  sites — as  Drury 
Lane,  Covent  Garden,  Fleet  street,  Charing  Cross, 
Old  Bailey,  Bow  street,  Seven  Dials,  High  Hoi- 
born,  Downing  street,  Mark  Lane,  and  so  forth,  a 
thousand  interesting  thoughts  arise.  We  know  that 
this  place  or  that  was  the  resort  or  the  accustomed 
walk  of  the  noble  old  characters  of  whom  we  never 
cease  to  read  with  delight.  We  can,  in  imagina- 
tion, see  Goldsmith,  Garrick,  Reynolds,  thought- 
fully striding  on.  And  there  comes  Dr.  Johnson 
in  his  rolling  gait,  nervously  twitching,  and  mutter- 
ing to  himself,  touching  with  his  right  hand  every 
post,  and  if  by  chance  he  misses  one,  going  back 
to  give  it  the  salute,  and  now  and  then  stopping  to 
pick  up  a  bit  of  dirty  orange  peel.  Then,  per- 
haps, he  sees  Mrs.  Thrale  driving  along  in  her 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  193 

carriage  with  "sweet  little  Burney  "  by  her  side,  a 
sight  always  sufficient  to  smooth  the  contortions  of 
his  scarred  countenance,  and  induce  something 
resembling  a  smile.  And  there,  in  the  background, 
we  see  dear  old  Pepys  chatting  with  that  unapprecia- 
tive  wife  of  his,  and  trying  to  make  her  see  things 
by  his  eyes.  It  is  a  matter  of  congratulation  that 
the  people  here  are  fond  of  retaining  the  old  names 
of  streets  and  places  that  have  become  historically 
so  interesting. 

HOUSES    OF    PARLIAMENT. 

The  new  Houses  of  Parliament  are  near  West- 
minster Abbey,  and  exteriorly  present  a  most 
beautiful  and  imposing  aspect.  The  apartment 
occupied  by  the  house  of  Commons,  excepting  in 
its  loftiness  and  extent  of  area,  did  not  strike  me 
as  being  hardly  equal  to  the  Common  Council 
rooms  of  many  of  our  New  England  cities.  The 
seats  can  hardly  be  called  convenient,  and  the 
ornamentation  is  by  no  means  excessive.  Whether 
the  walls  echo  with  more  refined  or  patriotic  oratory 
is  a  question  I  shall  not  venture  upon,  comparisons 
being  odious.  The  House  of  Lords  is  much  richer 
in  its  appointments. 

ENGLISH    COURTESY. 

I  must  say  a  word  or  two  commendatory  of  the 
politeness  of  the  English  people,  especially  to 
strangers.  Whenever  I  have  made  an  inquiry  of 
one,  high  or  low,  I  have  met  with  the  utmost  civility. 


194  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

An  instance  or  two  will  illustrate.  Coming  from 
the  Tower,  one  morning,  and  knowing  that  I  must 
be  in  the  vicinity  of  the  famous  Billingsgate  Fish 
Market,  I  met  a  gentleman  of  whom  I  enquired  the 
way.  "Why,"  said  he,  "you  are  going  directly 
from  that  market,  but  I  am  on  my  way  there  and 
we  will  walk  along  together."  On  the  way  he  took 
me  through  Mark  Lane,  famous  as  the  place  where 
wine  merchants  and  grain  dealers  most  congregate, 
into  the  Corn  Exchange,  where  he  explained  the 
manner  in  which  the  great  business  is  conducted, 
and  thence  to.  Billingsgate.  There  he  took  me  to 
different  stalls,  showed  me  the  various  kinds  of 
fish  most  fancied  by  Londoners,  told  how  and 
where  they  were  taken,  the  manner  in  which  they 
were  sold,  and  various  other  particulars  touch- 
ing the  trade.  On  expressing  my  thanks  for  his 
civility,  he  simply  shook  my  hand  and  blandly  said, 
"  Don't  mention  it."  The  market  was  at  that  hour 
in  a  wretchedly  dirty  condition,  as  it  was  late  in  the 
forenoon,  and  the  business  of  the  day  was  nearly 
over.  Billingsgate,  to  be  seen  in  all  its  glory, 
should  be  visited  at  about  five  in  the  morning ;  then 
it  is  that  the  voluble  and  uncleanly  tongues  of  the 
fishermen  and  fisherwomen  most  fiercely  wag. 

Another  instance  of  the  courtesy  to  which  I  allude 
was  experienced  from  a  gentleman  whose  acquaint- 
ance I  early  formed.  He  devoted  a  whole  day  to 
conducting  me  to  places  of  interest,  and  an  hour  or 
two  in  the  evening  to  making  suggestions  likely  to 
aid  me  in  future  movements.  As  I  thanked  him, 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  Ip5 

on  parting,  he,  like  the  other,  simply  replied,  "  Do  n't 
mention  it." 

Another  instance  may  be  named,  though  not  for 
the  single  purpose  of  showing  the  politeness  of  the 
people.  Passing  along  High  Holborn  —  or  " 'igh 
'oborn,"  as  our  good  cousins  generally  call  it — I 
saw,  when  near  Day  &  Martin's  famous  blacking 
manufactory,  a  man  filling  some  tin  pails  from  a 
street  hydrant ;  and  the  water  was  so  clean  and 
wholesome  looking,  that  I  asked  him  if  all  the 
people  of  London  had  such  good  water  to  drink. 
"Yes,  indeed,  sir,"  said  he,  "all  Lun'un  has  all 
they  wants,  and  nobody  has  better.  I'll  get  a  glass 
and  give  you  a  drink."  I  told  him  he  need  not  go 
to  that  trouble,  as  I  found  everywhere  what  seemed 
to  be  the  same  kind  of  water.  Ice,  by  the  way,  is 
very  little  used  in  England,  and  the  water  of  course 
is  not  very  cold  in  summer ;  a  fact  that  may  in  part 
account  for  the  great  use  of  beer.  The  Thames  is 
a  terrifically  dirty  stream  as  viewed  from  the  London 
bridges,  and  I  presume  the  aqueduct  supplies  come 
from  a  long  distance.  Happy  are  the  Londoners 
in  being  so  blessed ;  and  I  do  not  see  why  they 
need  drink  so  much  beer,  gin,  and  other  spirits. 
They  do  not  look  upon  such  things  with  the  eyes  of 
a  New  Englander.  Liquor  stores  are  to  be  found 
at  every  turn ;  and  it  is  odd  to  see  well-dressed 
females,  ladies  in  appearance,  openly  partake. 
However,  we  all  believe  in  the  softening  and  re- 
straining influences  of  woman  wherever  she  vouch- 
safes her  presence,  and  perhaps  her  bar-room  visits. 


196  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

should  be  encouraged  on  account  of  her  benign 
influence.  Anyway,  so  far  as  my  observation  has 
extended,  the  drinking-places  of  London  are  much 
more  orderly  than  those  in  our  large  American  cities. 
Yet  it  is  no  doubt  true  that  in  some  of  the  inferior 
neighborhoods  there  are  places  of  a  very  different 
description. 

But  I  had  almost  forgotten  my  friend  at  the 
hydrant.  I  found,  in  further  conversation,  that  he 
thought  there  was  one  spot  on  earth  where  there 
was  better  water  than  in  London ;  and  that  was 
on  the  shore  of  the  Black  Sea.  It  was  a  shrewd 
preface  to  the  information  that  he  was  in  the  Crimean 
War ;  and  he  was  going  on  to  describe  the  wells 
and  tanks  when  I  impolitely  bade  him  good-day 
and  passed  on. 

Over-done  politeness  sometimes  runs  into  ludi- 
crous extremes;  and  I  may  as  well  here  relate 
another  little  experience  which  may  be  called  polite- 
ness with  a  purpose.  I  was  leisurely  viewing  some 
of  the  ponderous  structures  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
Mansion  House,  the  Lord  Mayor's  residence,  when 
a  couple  of  seedy  looking  individuals  became  quite 
officious  in  ministering  to  my  curiosity.  One  of 
them  said,  as  he  pointed  around  with  his  dirty  fin- 
ger, "that  is  the  Mansion  House,  that  the  Royal 
Exchange,  that  the  bank  of  England,"  and  so  on. 
I  told  them  they  were  very  kind,  but  I  was  quite 
well  aware  of  the  names  of  the  buildings,  and  was 
passing  on,  when  one  of  them  in  a  comically  im- 
pudent way,  said,  "  Well,  now,  won't  you  give  us 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  197 

some  coppers  to  get  a  drink  ?  "  The  request  was  so 
ridiculous  that  I  laughed  in  their  faces.  They,  too, 
saw  the  absurdity,  joined  in  the  laugh,  and  bade  me 
good-day.  Upon  the  next  corner  was  another  chap, 
as  rough  as  they  in  appearance,  but  evidently  an 
honest  fellow.  When  I  came  up  to  him  he  asked 
what  the  others  said  to  me.  I  told  him  what  they 
said  about  the  buildings.  "All  right,"  said  he,  "  I 
thought  they  might  be  trying  to  impose  on  a  stranger, 
and  so  waited  to  set  you  right."  He  did  not  ask  for 
a  drink. 

The  police  officers  of  London  —  and  there  are  mul- 
titudes of  them  —  are  models  in  their  way  ;  always 
polite  and  patient  in  answering  questions,  often  frivo- 
lous questions,  with  which  they  are  almost  unceas- 
ingly assailed.  In  the  better  streets  you  see  none 
of  the  ugly  clubs  that  our  American  police  so  often 
delight  to  flourish.  They  do  not  carry  fire-arms 
excepting,  possibly,  as  one  of  them  told  me,  in 
some  of  the  unruly  suburbs.  They  are  respected 
by  the  people ;  not  viewed  as  a  terror,  but  as  a 
friendly  safeguard.  I  have  repeatedly  had  occasion 
to  observe  and  experience  their  good  offices.  Many 
of  the  London  streets  are  so  crooked,  narrow,  and 
involved,  that  it  does  not  require  much  erratic  skill  in 
a  stranger  to  lose  his  way.  When  uncertain  about 
my  course  at  night,  I  have  had  a  policeman  go 
with  me  a  considerable  distance,  continuing  on  till 
he  was  sure  I  was  in  the  most  direct  way.  It  seems 
to  me  that  the  English  idea  of  a  police  officer  is 
far  better  than  the  American.  But  a  great  many 


198  LEGACY    OF    AN     OCTOGENARIAN. 

American  ideas  are  fast  working  their  way  into 
English  minds.  And  what  will  be  the  future  con- 
dition here  it  is  hard  to  determine.  I  rind  that  the 
London  papers  are  at  the  present  time  discussing 
he  question  of  an  armed  police. 

FEES    AND    GRATUITIES. 

Few  things  are  more  annoying  to  travelers  from 
our  country  than  the  constant  expectation  of  a  fee 
or  gratuity  for  any  little  service.  The  carriage 
driver  expects  a  penny  or  two  for  handling  your 
luggage ;  the  waiter  who  serves  you  in  the  eating- 
house  expects  his  penny,  and  so  on.  I  have  never 
been  able  to  learn  any  better  reason  for  this  than 
the  fact  that  all  serving  people  are  so  poorly  paid 
that  they  could  not  live  without  it.  Now  that  is 
placing  the  burden  on  the  wrong  shoulders ;  but 
yet,  it  does  not  make  much  difference,  if  the  demand 
of  the  principal  —  the  eating-house  proprietor,  for 
instance  —  is  lower  than  it  would  have  been  except- 
ing for  the  contingency.  Still  it  is  an  awkward 
custom  to  a  stranger.  Englishmen  themselves  have 
repeatedly  told  me  that  they  think  it  a  miserable 
way  and  one  which  they  hope  will  soon  disappear. 
Very  good  entertainment,  cleanly,  well-cooked  food, 
and  at  quite  reasonable  prices,  can  be  obtained  in 
the  London  eating-houses.  I  judged  that  a  good 
many  Germans  were  here  in  the  business. 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  199 


THE    TOWER    OF    LONDON. 

That  ponderous  old  pile,  the  Tower  of  London, 
which  yet  looks  firm  enough  to  withstand  the  power 
of  even  a  Sicilian  earthquake,  and  which  has  already 
withstood  the  assaults  of  some  eight  hundred  years, 
stands  near  the  Thames.  One  almost  shudders  as 
he  passes  within  the  frowning  walls,  but  soon  meets 
chatting  visitors,  soldiers  and  warders,  and  is  re- 
minded that  it  was  once  a  palace,  the  scene  of  gaiety 
and  pomp,  of  the  barbaric  tournament  and  princely 
rout.  But  dismal  shadows  intervene,  and  the  mind 
reverts  to  the  miseries  of  the  nobles  and  heroes  who 
lingered  here  as  prisoners  of  State,  ending  their 
lives  in  the  gloomy  chambers  or  at  the  block. 

In  the  open  area,  a  small  stone  pavement  marks 
the  spot  on  which  Anne  Boleyn  and  Lady  Jane  Grey 
were  beheaded,  the  first  victims  of  a  sanguinary  and 
shameless  sovereign  who  yet,  perhaps  unwittingly, 
did  much  to  establish  the  fame  and  glory  of  Eng- 
land, and  who  set  in  motion  measures  whose  benefi- 
cent results  are  felt  at  this  day  and  in  all  civilized 
lands. 

The  countless  array  of  glistening  arms  ready 
for  use,  the  historic  collection  of  cannons  and  other 
warlike  implements  and  engines  which  show  the 
progress  of  men's  devices  in  the  art  of  destroying 
their  fellow  men,  the  mailed  effigies  of  warriors  of 
ages  past,  are  all  interesting  if  saddening.  And  I 
could  not  help  noticing  near  them,  as  if  in  grinning 
irony,  the  original  mask  of  the  jester  of  Henry  VIII. 


2OO  LEGACY    OF    AN7    OCTOGENARIAN. 

A  small  body  of  soldiers  were  exercising  on  the 
parade  ground,  and  in  their  bright  scarlet  coats  and 
heavy  hairy  caps  looked  very  much  like  some  of 
our  holiday  infantry  companies. 

To  the  many  who  take  little  interest  in  historical 
matters,  the  State  regalia  and  crown  jewels  have 
the  most  interest.  The  Queen's  crown  and  diadem, 
glittering  with  precious  stones,  her  sceptre  of  gold, 
the  sword  of  state,  and  the  many  other  articles 
forming  this  rich  and  dazzling  collection,  are  highly 
attractive  to  those  who  love  to  feast  their  eyes  upon 
gems  and  gold. 

The  burly  Warders  of  the  Tower  in  their  queer 
uniform  were  pacing  about,  as  dignified  as  if  they 
thought  themselves  necessary  to  the  preservation  of 
the  integrity  of  the  realm  ;  but  they  were  condescend- 
ingly polite  and  ready  to  answer  impertinent  ques- 
tions. I  asked  one  if  there  was  anything  more  that 
it  would  be  desirable  to  see  besides  what  was  con- 
tained in  the  rooms  already  visited.  "  If  you  have 
not  seen  the  regalia,"  he  replied,  "  go  straight  down 
that  passage,  say  nothing  to  anybody,  and  let  no 
one  stop  you.  You  will  presently  come  to  where 
it  is."  And  so  I  did. 

ST.    PAUL'S    CATHEDRAL. 

St.  Paul's  is  so  famous,  as  well  as  conspicuous, 
an  object  that  no  stranger  strolling  in  the  vicinity 
should  neglect  the  opportunity  of  at  least  a  cursorv 
examination.  It  is  generally  conceded  to  be  the 
grandest  ecclesiastical  structure  on  earth,  excepting 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  2OI 

St.  Peter's  at  Rome.  But  the  exterior  is  almost 
black  with  the  stains  of  atmosphere  and  time.  An 
American  is  most  struck  by  the  hugeness  of  its 
proportions ;  and  before  entering  I  could  not  help 
indulging  in  the  profane  thought  that  it  was  suffi- 
cient to  accommodate  all  the  real  Christians  on 
earth.  There  are  three  services  held  here  every 
day  of  the  year;  all  of  them  largely  choral.  The 
choir  boys  certainly  give  evidence  of  extraordinary 
musical  training,  as  well  as  natural  adaptation. 
There  are  but  twenty-six  of  them,  as  one  of  the 
little  fellows  told  me  ;  and  there  are  probably  about 
as  many  young  men.  The  service  is  partially  in- 
toned, and  but  little  besides  the  musical  portion  can 
be  heard  excepting  by  those  within  a  few  feet  of 
the  chancel.  The  congregation  was  large  when  I 
attended,  and  I  was  told  that  it  always  is  —  some- 
times overflowing.  The  best  sittings,  those  nearest 
the  chancel,  are  very  common  flag-bottomed  chairs  ; 
and  those  farther  off  are  cheap  settees.  There  are 
many  sculptured  memorials  and  effigies  on  and  near 
the  walls,  costly  and  impressive,  but  largely  illus- 
trative of  warlike  achievements.  There  are,  how- 
ever, statues  and  memorials  of  the  great  and  good 
in  other  walks.  But  the  reflection  would  obtrude 
that  the  martial  effigies  especially  would  be  more 
appropriate  in  some  other  place  than  one  dedicated 
to  the  Prince  of  Peace.  Surely  there  are  enough 
Christian  heroes  to  fill  the  places.  It  need  not  be 
said  that  rich  and  costly  fittings  and  adornments 
are  seen  in  every  part  of  the  noble  structure,  but 


202  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

almost  everything  has  a  dingy,  aged  aspect.  The 
evening  service  differed  but  little  from  the  Sunday 
evening  service  as  held  in  our  own  St.  Stephen's : 
a  little  more  musical  however. 

BRITISH    MUSEUM. 

This  notable  institution  probably  contains  the 
most  valuable  collection  on  earth.  The  library 
especially  is  valuable,  and  its  destruction  would  be 
a  far  greater  loss  to  the  world  than  was  the  destruc- 
tion of  that  of  Alexandria.  It  is  free  to  all  and  I 
saw  many  who,  by  their  appearance,  belonged  to 
the  lower  walks  of  life  attentively  examining  works 
of  high  art,  and  perhaps  blessing  the  liberality  of 
a  government  which  afforded  them  such  rare  oppor- 
tunities. No  detailed  description,  of  course,  could 
be  attempted  here ;  and  I  need  only  remark  that 
the  collection  of  Assyrian  antiquities  was  to  me 
rather  the  most  interesting.  The  winged  bulls, 
exhumed  from  the  ruins  of  Nineveh,  are  certainly 
astonishing  specimens  of  human  handiwork,  more 
wonderful  indeed  than  anything  in  the  Egyptian 
collection,  and  indicating  ideal  conceptions  grander 
even  than  anything  in  the  Greek  and  Roman  de- 
partments. Young  lady  and  young  gentlemen 
students  were  seen  in  various  rooms  with  their  ma- 
terials for  copying,  and  every  facility  seemed  to  be 
provided  for  the  successful  pursuance  of  their  labors. 
The  institution  must  be  exceedingly  beneficial  to 
the  educational  and  refining  interests  of  the  nation. 
And  that,  of  course  is  the  great  purpose. 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  203 

MISCELLANEOUS    NOTES. 

Upon  the  embankment,  a  wide  and  picturesque 
driveway  bordering  upon  the  Thames  and  near 
Waterloo  Bridge,  stands  the  celebrated  Egyptian 
obelisk  —  Cleopatra's  Needle  —  brought  from  Alex- 
andria by  a  passage  of  much  tribulation,  having 
been  once  abandoned  at  sea  through  stress  of 
weather.  It  seems  now  to  be  in  a  good  state  of 
preservation  and  the  hieroglyphics  remain,  for  the 
most  part,  in  an  almost  perfect  state  of  preservation. 
If  it  can  long  withstand  the  dissolving  influences 
of  the  English  climate,  it  can  do  more  than  the 
indigenous  stone  when  fully  exposed.  It  seemed 
to  me  that  a  singularly  exposed  position  for  it  has 
been  chosen. 

The  sudden  changes  of  weather  here  are  sur- 
prising even  to  a  New  Englander  —  rain,  sunshine, 
fog,  follow'  each  other  with  astonishing  rapidity. 
As  to  the  fog,  our  "Yellow  day,"  September  6, 
1881,  was  hardly  a  circumstance  to  what  I  experi- 
enced during  the  first  week  ;  it  was  almost  enough 
to  create  the  apprehension  that  doomsday  was  at 
hand.  The  umbrella  trade  must  be  good,  for  the 
practice  with  many  is  to  take  one  whenever  they  go 
out ;  and  I  very  readily  fell  into  the  practice.  The 
Londoners  continually  grumble  about  their  weather  ; 
but  they  may  finally  become  convinced  that  grumb- 
ling does  not  improve  it,  and  learn  to  rank  it  among 
their  other  blessings. 

Not  far  from  the  Tower    is  the  old   monument 


204  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

commemorative  of  the  great  fire  of  1666.  On  the 
recommendation  of  a  passer-by  I  had  the  temerity 
to  ascend  by  the  interior  stairway,  three  hundred 
and  eleven  steps,  but  was  poorly  compensated  for 
the  fatigue  as  the  weather  was  thick,  and  the  view 
consequently  circumscribed.  On  a  clear  day  the 
outlook  must  be  grand. 


CHAPTER   II. 

LONDON    TO    BRIGHTON. 

I  LEFT  London  on  the  morning  of  October  10, 
and  this  time  with  my  face  towards  the  southeast 
coast.  And  right  glad  I  was  to  leave  the  great 
city  behind,  for  I  certainly  never  before  experi- 
enced such  a  fog,  so  called,  as  set  in  soon  after 
sunrise.  At  daylight  it  was  pretty  clear,  but  by 
ten  o'clock  the  darkness  was  so  great  that  the 
streets  and  stores  had  to  be  lighted  as  at  night.  I 
say  so-called  fog,  for  it  was  evident  to  me  that  it 
was  chiefly  smoke.  My  eyes  bore  smarting  evi- 
dence of  that  fact.  Probably  the  air  was  too  light 
to  bear  up  the  immense  weight  of  smoke  ejected  at 
the  awakening  hour,  and  there  being  no  wind,  it 
fell  in  a  dense,  murky  sheet. 

I  must  remark  that  I  was  more  than  ever  charmed 
with  the  neatness  and  finished  appearance  of  the 
landscape ;  with  the  taste  displayed  about  the  cot- 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  20$ 

tages  and  even  the  roadsides ;  with  the  absence  of 
brambles,  weeds  and  unsightly  debris,  with  the 
green  fields,  neat  hedges,  and  healthy-looking 
domestic  animals. 

In  good  time  we  arrived  at  Brighton,  the  gem  of 
the  south  coast.  It  is  about  fifty  miles  from  Lon- 
don, and  is  renowned  for  its  salubrity  and  enchant- 
ing views.  It  has  a  water  front  of  four  miles, 
which  affords  a  delightful  promenade  and  driveway. 
And  its  background  of  lofty  hills  adds  greatly  to 
its  claims  to  the  picturesque.  It  is  a  large,  com- 
pactly built  city,  with  a  resident  population  some- 
what rising  a  hundred  thousand,  to  which  there  is 
a  large  addition  during  the  watering  season. 

Multitudes  of  the  young  people  of  England  of 
both  sexes  gather  here  for  their  'education,  many 
of  the  schools  being  of  a  high  order.  There  are 
between  seventy  and  eighty  seminaries  for  young 
ladies,  and  about  sixty  for  youth  of  the  other  sex. 
In  these  schools  are  pupils  of  all  classes,  and  that 
social  polish,  so  highly  appreciated  by  the  English 
people,  is  apparent  in  a  remarkable  degree. 

An  air  of  gentility  pervades  the  place,  and  a 
stranger  could  linger  here  but  few  hours  without 
perceiving  unmistakable  evidence  of  culture  and 
wealth. 

The  stone  of  which  the  residences  are  chiefly 
built  is  of  a  cream  color,  and  with  the  architectural 
taste  everywhere  displayed  affords  a  most  cheerful 
aspect.  Here  and  there,  however,  I  noticed  a 
building,  and  in  numerous  instances  a  garden  wall, 


2O6  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

of  a  unique  sort  of  conglomerate ;  that  is,  stones 
about  the  average  size  of  oranges,  of  dark  color, 
apparently  flint,  worked  in  with  cement,  sometimes 
in  regular  rows,  and  sometimes  promiscuously. 
The  stones,  I  was  told,  are  picked  up  along  the 
shore  ;  and  they  certainly  make  a  neat,  handsome, 
easily  repaired,  and  no  doubt  very  durable,  wall. 
The  Church  of  St.  Nicholas  is  built  of  this  material, 
and  is  very  beautiful.  Most  likely  it  is  not  cheaper 
than  stone  or  brick,  but  is  more  showy  and  pictur- 
esque. And,  by  the  way,  I  saw  in  England,  walls 
constructed  in  a  similar  way,  but  with  broken  brick, 
bits  of  tile,  and  even  old  jugs  and  bottles,  as  well  as 
stones  of  all  shapes  and  sizes,  worked  in  with  the 
cement. 

There  is  an  interesting  museum  in  Brighton 
which  is  free  to  all  during  certain  days  of  the 
week.  The  library  is  valuable;  the  collection  of 
antiquities  must  be  interesting  to  every  Englishman  ; 
and  the  stranger  can  spend  hours  in  examining  the 
collection  of  beautiful  paintings.  While  it  was  a 
matter  of  regret  that  I  had  not  more  time  to  spend 
there,  I  was  pleased  to  see  so  many  people  of  the 
town  come  in  to  enjoy  the  refining  influences  so 
afforded  without  money  and  without  price.  Some, 
indeed,  judging  from  their  dress  and  manners, 
needed  a  little  refining. 

I  have  alluded  to  the.  hills  about  Brighton.  In 
consequence  of  these,  some  of  the  streets  are  so 
steep  that  it  seemed  a  matter  of  wonder  how  people 
could  venture  to  ride  down  them. 


NOTES    OF  TRAVEL.  207 

My  visit  to  Brighton  was  partly  at  least  induced 
by  a  trivial  circumstance,  and  I  must  relate  it  to 
show  how  sometimes  a  small  matter  will  direct 
one's  course.  While  seated  in  St.  Paul's,  in  Lon- 
don, one  afternoon,  I  began  to  fear,  from  the  slow 
gathering  of  the  people,  that  I  had  been  misin- 
formed as  to  the  hour  of  service.  Turning  to  a 
young  lady  seated  near  me,  I  asked  if  she  knew 
the  hour.  "Why,  yes,"  she  said,  "it  is  four 
o'clock,  and  we  have  almost  an  hour  to  wait." 
This  led  to  a  little  further  conversation,  when  she 
archly  remarked,  "you  are  an  American;  you 
have  just  said  you  guess.  Now  tell  me,  are  the 
American  ladies  so  much  handsomer  than  the 
English,  as  people  say?"  I  could  only  reply  that 
before  seeing  her,  and  the  lady  friend  with  her,  I 
had  supposed  they  were,  but  must  admit  now  that 
there  were  exceptions.  She  blushed  a  little,  and 
then  added,  "You  must  certainly  go  to  beautiful 
Brighton  before  you  return  to  America.  I  have 
just  come  from  school  there.  It  is  charming." 
She  also  remarked  that  her  father  was  a  clergyman, 
and  was  going  on  with  some  further  chat,  when 
she  suddenly  checked  herself,  seeming  to  recollect 
the  sanctity  of  the  place  we  were  in,  or  the  impro- 
priety of  familiarly  conversing  with  a  stranger,  and 
the  gossip  ended.  I  judged  from  what  she  said 
about  her  journey  from  Brighton  to  London,  that 
the  railroad  conductors  there  —  guards  as  they  call 
them  —  have  greater  discretionary  powers  than  the 
conductors  on  American  roads.  She  remarked 


2O8  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

that  when  she  took  the  car  at  Brighton  it  appeared 
that  by  some  means  she  had  got  a  third-class  ticket, 
and  so  took  a  seat  accordingly.  I  am  not  sure, 
however,  that  she  did  not  say  that  her  money  only 
admitted  of  the  purchase  of  a  ticket  of  that  class. 
However,  when  the  guard  came  round  to  see 
that  every  thing  was  right,  as  the  train  was  ready 
to  move,  he  saw  what  ticket  she  had  and  touching 
his  hat,  said,  "Why,  Miss,  this  is  not  a  suitable 
car  for  you.  Come  with  me."  She  got  out,  fol- 
lowed him,  and  was  shown  into  a  car  of  the  first 
class,  and  taken  to  London  without  a  hint  for  addi- 
tional pay. 

From  Brighton  I  took  an  evening  train  for  New- 
haven,  intending  to  cross  the  British  Channel  to 
Dieppe,  in  France.  It  was  early  in  the  evening 
when  I  reached  Newhaven,  and  finding  that  the 
steamer  would  not  leave  till  about  midnight,  cast 
about  for  means  to  while  away  the  intervening  hours. 
It  was  a  pleasant,  moonlight  night  and  I  took  a  long 
stroll  up  into  the  compact  little  settlement.  The 
men,  women,  and  young  folk  generally,  were  out 
in  the  streets,  or  gossiping  on  the  stoops  and  door- 
steps. I  strolled  into  the  suburbs,  and  hearing  the 
music  of  a  band  in  a  large  building  off  in  a  field, 
thought  there  must  be  a  circus  or  some  other  enter- 
tainment in  progress.  So,  pursuing  my  search  for 
amusement,  I  walked  toward  the  enticing  strains. 
On  crossing  a  little  rustic  bridge  I  met  a  man  who 
seemed  to  be  listening  to  the  music  and  asked  him 
if  he  knew  what  was  going  on.  "  O,  yes,"  said 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  209 

he,  "  it  is  the  band  practising."     Then  I  turned  my 
steps  another  way. 

In  due  time  the  steamer  cast  off,  and  at  about 
seven  in  the  morning  we  arrived  at  Dieppe,  one  of 
the  finest  of  the  quaint  old  French  towns,  a  town 
famous  in  the  ancient  wars  between  France  and 
England.  *  It  has  objects  of  deep  interest  to  the 
antiquary.  A  savory  breakfast,  of  which  many 
partook,  was  ready  in  a  building  at  the  landing 
place.  And  as  the  train  for  Rouen  was  soon  ready, 
I  bade  adieu  to  Dieppe. 


CHAPTER  III. 

LYNN    REGIS. 

LYNN  Regis,  King's  Lynn,  or,  as  it  is  most  gen- 
erally called  in  and  about  the  territory  itself,  simply 
Lynn,  is  in  Norfolk,  on  the  east  coast  of  England. 
It  is  especially  interesting  to  the  people  of  our  own 
Lynn,  in  Massachusetts,  as  being  the  place  from 
which  our  city  derived  its  name. 

On  the  morning  of  September  27,  1883,  I  left 
London  by  railroad  for  a  visit  to  this  ancient  borough. 
At  about  noon  we  reached  Peterborough,  one  of 
the  old  English  Cathedral  towns.  But  there  is  little 
there  to  delay  the  traveler  excepting  the  Cathedral 
which  dates  back  to  Norman  times,  and  is  certainly 
a  noble  structure,  towering  up  in  stately  proportions, 


210  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

and  impressing  one  with  the  idea  that  all  its  sur- 
roundings are  but  the  setting  for  the  splendid  gem. 
The  reader  need  not  be  reminded  of  the  interesting 
fact  that  it  was  in  this  venerable  sanctuary  that  the 
remains  of  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  were  placed 
soon  after  she  was  beheaded,  and  there  continued 
to  rest  till  her  son,  James  I  of  Englarid,  in  filial 
love  caused  them  to  be  removed  to  Westminster 
Abbey,  where  they  still  repose  within  a  few  yards 
of  those  of  Elizabeth,  by  whom  her  death  warrant 
was  signed. 

I  was  highly  gratified  by  this  additional  opportu- 
nity of  seeing  so  much  of  rural  England.  No 
wonder  English  mutton  sustains  its  high  reputation 
when  such  rich  pasturage  abounds.  And  I  was 
especially  impressed  by  the  taste  displayed  in  the 
cultivation  of  flowers  everywhere  observable,  not 
only  in  the  cottage  gardens,  but  by  the  wayside,  and 
about  the  neat  little  railroad  stations.  The  cars, 
which,  by  the  way,  I  do  not  think  by  any  means  so 
handsome,  comfortable  or  convenient  as  ours,  glide 
along  through  verdant,  or  cleanly-raked  gravel 
banks  sloping  almost  to  the  track,  and  usually  sur- 
mounted by  a  line  of  hawthorn  hedge.  There  are 
no  stone  walls  like  ours,  but  the  lands  are  divided 
by  hedge  rows,  with  a  ditch  on  one  side  —  a  ditch 
which  serves  the  double  purpose  of  drainage  and  a 
barrier  against  all  ordinary  intrusions. 

At  Peterborough  I  changed  from  the  Midland  to 
the  Great  Eastern  road,  and  arrived  in  Lynn  early 
in  the  afternoon,  where  I  was  most  cordially  received 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  211 

by  Solicitor  Coulton,  and  at  six  o'clock,  the  usual 
hour  for  dining  hereabout  excepting  with  those 
whose  labors  and  duties  require  a  different  time, 
was  at  his  beautiful  home  in  Pentney  parish  enjoy- 
ing the  hospitality  of  his  refined  and  agreeable 
family. 

And  now  a  brief  notice  of  a  few  of  the  interest- 
ing things  about  this  ancient  borough  may  be  ac- 
ceptable to  the  reader. 

King's  Lynn,  it  need  not  be  remarked,  is  on  the 
river  Ouse,  a  considerable  stream  emptying  into  the 
German  Ocean  at  the  Wash.  The  river  is  naviga- 
ble for  large  vessels  up  to  the  town,  and  I  had  not 
before  imagined  that  there  was  so  extensive  a  trade, 
in  lumber  especially,  as  I  soon  found  was  carried 
on.  Norway  and  Sweden  send  down  large  ship- 
ments ;  and  while  I  was  watching  the  activity  about 
the  docks,  a  big  Italian  steamer  was  working  into 
her  berth.  The  docks  are  capacious  and  built  with 
the  English  characteristics  of  solidity,  convenience, 
and  comeliness. 

The  fisheries  yield  large  supplies  of  the  various 
kinds  usually  found  in  northern  seas.  Many  bushels 
of  mussels  were  landed  while  I  was  there  —  mussels 
similar  in  appearance  to  those  found  on  our  coast  — 
and  women  and  men  were  employed  in  washing, 
screening,  and  preparing  them  for  market ;  yet  I 
believe  they  are  not  much  used  by  any  but  the  poorer 
classes.  A  gentleman  on  the  dock,  however,  took 
one  or  two  from  a  heap  and  opened  them  to  show 
me  how  luscious  and  wholesome  the  meat  looked. 


212  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

I  saw  no  clams  of  the  kinds  common  with  us,  but 
heaps  of  hard-shelled  scallops  about  the  size  of 
horse  chestnuts.  'Eels,  and  fine,  fat  mackerel, 
seemed  abundant. 

Lynn  is  very  compactly  built  of  brick  and  stone, 
the  houses  being  generally  two  stories  in  height. 
Many  bear  the  marks  of  great  age,  though  all 
seem  in  good  repair,  and  nothing  appears  to  be 
deteriorating  into  shabbiness.  Upon  the  gable  end 
of  one  house  I  observed  in  antique  figures  the  date 
1503.  The  streets  are  well  paved  with  stone  and 
kept  very  clean,  some  being  narrow  and  crooked, 
a  few  broad  and  straight. 

The  Public  Walks  form  a  most  charming  feature. 
There  is  a  long  avenue  of  noble  trees,  which  in 
many  instances  interlace  their  branches  overhead, 
and  for  a  summer-day  stroll  or  evening  promenade 
must  be  delightful.  And  the  adornments  of  flowers, 
shrubs  and  water,  with  the  conveniences  of  seats 
and  lounging  places,  are  not  wanting.  Just  off 
from  the  Mall,  as  the  avenue  is  called,  and  about 
midway  of  its  length,  upon  an  eminence  that  com- 
mands a  picturesque  view,  a  group  of  trees  forms  a 
pleasant  bower  and  resting  place,  regarding  which 
it  is  said  that  in  olden  times  when  a  maiden  and 
swain  there  exchanged  a  kiss  it  was  the  seal  of  an 
engagement. 

The  most  noted  churches  and  the  old  public 
buildings  look  dingy  and  weather-stained  ;  but  they 
have  a  venerable  appearance,  and  while  passing 
St.  Margaret's  or  St.  Nicholas's  one  feels  almost 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  213 

impelled  to  remove  his  hat.  The  oldest  is  St.  Mar- 
garet's, a  noble  structure,  whose  foundation  stones 
were  laid  some  eight  hundred  years  ago.  But  there 
are  other  interesting  relics  of  hy-gone  years. 

Grey  Friars'  Tower,  all  that  remains  of  a  once  flour- 
ishing monastery,  is  still  a  conspicuous  object ;  and 
even  the  unsentimental  observer  would  be  so  struck 
by  its  appearance  as  to  inquire  concerning  its  history. 
The  height  of  this  tower  is  so  considerable  that  it  is 
seen  from  all  points,  and  in  earlier  times  was  a  noted 
landmark  for  vessels  sailing  up  the  river. 

Upon  a  lead  of  this  tower  may  still  be  seen 
scratched  the  name  "  Eugene  Aram,  "one  of  the  most 
famous  in  the  criminal  annals  of  England,  scratched 
there,  no  doubt,  by  his  own  hand  while  he  was  a 
teacher  in  the  grammar  school,  which  is  to  this  day 
kept  in  a  building  nearly  opposite  the  tower. 

After  having  committed  the  strange  murder  for 
which  he  finally  suffered  the  extreme  penalty  of 
the  law,  he  fled  to  Lynn  where  he  found  employ- 
ment as  a  teacher,  being  fully  qualified  for  the  pro- 
fession, as  well  apparently  by  temper  and  disposition 
as  by  learning  and  skill.  He  is  represented  to  have 
been  much  beloved  by  his  pupils,  in  whose  sports 
he  sometimes  engaged,  though  he  led  a  retired  life, 
frequently  seeming  to  be  filled  with  mysterious  ap- 
prehensions. His  conduct  here  was  without  blemish, 
and  he  was  so  tender-hearted  that  he  would  never 
even  tread  upon  a  worm  if  he  could  avoid  it.  So 
he  lived  till  the  unfortunate  day  when  near  the 
market  place  he  was  recognized  by  a  Yorkshire 


214  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

cattle  drover,  who  gave  the  information  that  led  to 
his  arrest.  It  is  said  that  his  pupils  shed  tears  when 
he  was  apprehended,  and  in  various  ways  manifested 
their  affection. 

Aram  was  born  in  1704;  and  it  was  chiefly  by 
his  own  -exertions  that  he  obtained  the  education 
that  fitted  him  to  rank  with  the  higher  class  of 
teachers.  Daniel  Clark,  the  victim  of  his  murder- 
ous hand,  was  a  shoemaker,  had  a  little  property, 
but  was  not  of  unblemished  reputation.  The  mur- 
der was  committed  in  1745.  In  1759  he  was  brought 
to  trial,  and  conducted  his  own  defence,  which  a 
contemporaneous  account  says  was  "  marked  with 
very  considerable  powers.  It  was  learned  and 
argumentative,  and  in  some  passages  glowing  and 
eloquent."  He  was  convicted,  subsequently  con- 
fessed, was  executed,  and  his  body  afterwards  hung 
in  chains.  His  inner  life,  while  in  Lynn,  must  have 
been  pitiable.  And  it  was  related  by  an  old  lady, 
that  on  any  sudden  interruption  he  would  nervously 
turn  not  only  his  head  but  his  whole  body  around, 
as  if  in  desperation,  to  face  some  dreaded  object. 
Bulwer's  novel  —  * '  Eugene  Aram  "  —  was  probably 
suggested  by  the  fact  that  his  great  aunts  received 
the  instruction  of  Aram  while  he  taught  in  the 
grammar  school. 

Another  interesting  relic  is  the  mouldering  rem- 
nant of  the  White  Friar  Monastery,  a  crumbling 
arch  spanning  the  drive-way  of  the  street.  It  was 
probably  an  entrance  to  the  once  grand  edifice. 

But  the  ruin  regarded  with  the  most  interest  is 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  2J5 

that  known  as  the  Chapel  of  Our  Lady,  on  the  Red 
Mount,  which  stands  conspicuous  on  an  artificial 
knoll  in  the  Public  Walks.  The  superstructure 
which  first  meets  the  eye  is  evidently  not  the  most 
ancient  part,  as  it  was  built  as  lale  as  1483  — four 
hundred  years  ago.  It  is,  however,  a  genuine  ruin, 
with  crumbling  walls  and  unglazed  apertures, 
every  wind  sighing  mournfully  through  it,  and 
every  storm  drenching  its  mouldy  floors.  The  date 
1483  of  this  upper  chapel  is  clearly  determined  by 
a  record  of  the  town,  to  wit:  —  "1482.  Sep.  20. 
Thomas  Thorisby,  Maior.  Agreed  that  Robert 
Currance  shall  have  licence  to  bilde  a  chapell  upon 
the  mount  called  the  Lady  hylle  with  seche  grounde 
as  shall  be  leful,  nothyng  neyyng  the  Comons  of 
their  necessaries,  on  this  condicon  that  the  seide 
Robert  shall  ffynd  sufficient  surete  unto  the  town 

as  counsel w'd  advyse." 

The  date  of  the  more  ancient  erection  is  lost  in 
the  obscurities  of  time.  The  lower  chapel  can  be 
seen  from  the  interior  of  the  upper,  and  the  remains 
of  its  appointments  for  the  rendering  of  the  holy 
offices  may  be  traced  along  the  grim  walls.  It  was 
in  reality,  I  suppose,  a  miniature  church  or  shrine 
reared  for  the  convenience  of  wandering  pilgrims 
and  wayside  worshippers.  I  was  invited  to  go 
down  and  examine  the  handiwork  of  that  far-off 
period,  but  the  damp  and  mouldy  aspect  was  too 
forbidding.  King  Edward  the  Fourth  is  stated  to 
have  lodged  here  in  1469,  on  his  way  to  Holland, 
its  sanctity  perhaps  making  it  a  safe  retreat. 


2l6  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

But  the  Chapel  of  Our  Lady  finally  came  to  base 
uses.  It  was  a  magazine  for  the  storage  of  powder 
in  1638.  Twenty-seven  years  afterwards  it  was  a 
pest-house,  then  an  observatory,  and  then  a  stable. 
Now  it  is  a  ruin,  and  only  that,  its  beautiful  stone 
tracery  nicked  and  grimy,  its  rich  gilding  and 
stained  windows  all  destroyed,  its  chanting  monks, 
its  weary  sojourners,  and  foot-sore  worshippers,  all 
gone  to  their  final  resting-place. 

From  the  knoll  on  which  this  ruin  stands  a  pic- 
turesque view  is  had,  and  seats  are  fixed  against  its 
walls  for  those  who  would  linger  for  the  enjoyment 
of  the  scene,  for  meditation,  or  for  rest.  To  one  of 
poetic  turn  a  moonlight  hour,  while  seated  there, 
must  be  full  of  strange  and  weird  fancies.  When 
I  was  first  there,  on  a  sunny  morning,  two  or  three 
old  men  were  on  the  seats  listlessly  sunning  them- 
selves, and  looking  like  fit  exponents  of  the  old 
monkish  days.  I  asked  one  of  them  if  he  could 
tell  me  anything  about  the  place  ;  but  all  he  could 
say  was  that  it  was  "  nigh  a  thousan'  year  old."  It 
is  much  visited,  and  seems  to  have  of  late  attracted 
more  attention  than  formerly.  Men  were  digging 
into  the  base  of  the  knoll  seeking,  as  I  understood 
them,  an  underground  entrance  to  the  lower  chapel  : 
and  they  seemed  already  to  have  discovered  a  side 
wall  to  such  a  passage. 

Lynn  was  anciently  a  walled  town,  but  most  of 
the  wall  and  the  moat  have  disappeared.  I  how- 
ever found,  in  my  rambles,  a  section  of  some  three 
or  four  hundred  feet ;  and  it  looked  as  if  it  might 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  2 17 

yet  stand  for  many  years  if  the  material  should 
not  be  wanted  for  modern  uses,  as  probably  most  of 
the  rest  has  been. 

Mr.  Coulton  is  a  native  of  the  town,  and  thor- 
oughly acquainted  with  its  history  and  condition ; 
and  I  was  much  indebted  for  the  information  he 
gave,  as  well  as  for  his  hospitality.  And  I  likewise 
felt  under  great  obligation  to  the  Rev.  Mr.  Alvis, 
Vicar  of  East  Winch  Parish,  who  conducted  me 
about  some  ancient  churches,  and  the  Town  Hall, 
in  which  I  was  shown  the  sword  of  King  John,  the 
cup  presented  to  the  corporation  by  that  monarch, 
the  maces,  and  other  articles  of  interest.  He  also 
took  me  into  some  of  the  oldest  houses,  in  which  I 
was  shown  ancient  works  of  art,  rare  panel  paint- 
ings and  carving,  and  the  room  in  which  King  John 
lodged  on  his  last  night  in  Lynn.  In  St.  Margaret's 
Church  I  had  the  pleasure  of  an  introduction  to 
Lady  Parry,  widow  of  the  celebrated  arctic  navi- 
gator, an  interesting  old  lady.  She  was  Capt. 
Parry's  second  wife,  and  much  younger  than  he. 

On  a  Sunday  morning  I  attended  worship  in  the 
ancient  little  church  in  Narborough  Parish,  and  in 
the  afternoon  in  the  Pentney  church.  It  was  the 
day  of  harvest  home  celebration,  and  the  latter 
church,  especially,  was  decorated  in  a  pleasing  and 
appropriate  manner  —  not  over-done,  as  I  have 
seen  in  some  of  our  churches  at  home.  The  tasty 
hands  of  my  host's  daughters  had  been  employed 
in  the  decorations.  The  congregation  was  com- 
posed of  persons  of  various  ranks,  but  chiefly,  of 


2l8  LEGACY   OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

course,  of  those  connected  with  husbandry.  These 
churches  have  graveyards  in  which  many  old  mon- 
uments are  seen,  and  which,  of  a  summer  evening 
after  service,  are  often  the  lingering  places  for  social 
chat,  if  not  for  meditation. 

I  can  understand  now  something  of  the  condi- 
tion of  rural  England;  have  seen  the  "  hedgers 
and  ditchers"  at  work,  and  can  in  a  measure  realize 
how  their  labors  tend  to  the  finished  appearance  of 
the  landscape,  and  to  beautify  even  the  waysides ; 
directed  perhaps  by  their  more  cultivated  neighbors. 
But  it  cannot  be  disguised  that  the  agricultural  in- 
terest is  at  present  in  a  sadly  depressed  condition  in 
England. 

On  the  forenoon  of  October  7,  I  attended  a  wed- 
ding in  Narborough  church.  There  was  a  large 
attendance  of  friends  and  neighbors,  and  things 
were  conducted  very  much  as  with  us.  The  musi- 
cal portion  of  the  services  was  by  a  choir  of  boys 
and  girls.  The  bride  I  believe  was  organist  of  the 
church,  but  other  hands  played  the  instrument  on 
this  occasion.  The  laws  of  England  require  that 
marriages  shall  be  celebrated  between  the  hours  of 
eight  and  twelve  in  the  forenoon,  excepting  under 
a  dispensation  from  the  Archbishop  of  Canterbury, 
which  cannot  be  obtained  without  money  and  with- 
out price  —  the  latter  a  pretty  large  one.  [1893. 
I  think  the  limitation  as  to  the  hour  of  marriage 
has  been  removed  by  Parliament  since  my  visit] . 

The  celebrated  Dr.  Burney  was  for  many  years 
organist  of  St.  Margaret's.  He  was  the  father  of 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  2Ip 

"  sweet  little  Burney,"  who  so  fascinated  Dr.  John- 
son, Burke,  and  several  others  of  England's  great 
men,  during  the  latter  third  of  the  last  century,  who 
was  a  maid  of  honor  to  the  Queen,  and  whose  gos- 
siping diary  and  letters  have  even  now  such  a 
charm. 

Dr.  Burney  wrote  his  General  History  of  Music 
while  a  resident  of  Lynn,  and  it  was  under  his 
superintendence  that  the  present  organ  in  St.  Mar- 
garet's was  erected.  Snetzler  was  the  builder  of 
the  organ,  and  when  asked  by  the  wardens  what 
he  thought  the  value  of  the  old  one  would  be,  in 
case  it  were  repaired,  replied  that  "if  they  would 
lay  out  a  hundred  pounds  upon  it  perhaps  it  would 
be  worth  fifty." 

As  early  as  1566  a  chime  of  bells  was  placed  in 
the  tower  of  St.  Margaret's,  the  set  consisting  of 
five,  the  largest  of  which  could  be  heard  ten  miles 
away.  Some  years  after  the  number  was  increased 
to  eight;  [and  in  1887  to  ten;  the  Mayor,  on  the 
fiftieth  anniversary  of  the  reign  of  Qjieen  Victoria, 
presenting  one,  naming  it  "  Victoria,"  and  the 
Mayoress  presenting  another,  naming  it  "  Albert." 
These  two  were  first  rung  on  the  jubilee  day,  June 
21,  1887].  The  large  tenor  bell  of  this  chime  is 
celebrated  for  the  sweetness  of  its  tone.  It  would 
be  useless  to  attempt  a  description  of  the  numerous 
memorial  tablets  which  appear  all  about  in  the 
church,  or  the  ancient  monuments  which  are  to 
be  seen  in  the  church-yard,  —  monuments  which 
celebrate  the  virtues  and  noble  deeds  of  those  of 


220  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

by-gone  generations.  Among  the  most  remarkable 
things  in  the  church  are  a  couple  of  monumental 
brasses  dating  back  more  than  five  hundred  years, 
one  of  them  said  to  be  the  finest  in  the  kingdom. 
They  are  about  nine  feet  in  length,  and  five  in 
breadth,  and  are  elaborately  wrought,  showing 
great  skill  and  taste  in  the  engraver.  There  are 
other  brasses,  but  these  are  the  most  attractive  to 
strangers. 

St.  Margaret's  bears  the  appearance  of  great  age, 
and  in  some  cases  of  repairs  that  do  not  add  to  its 
symmetry.  Two  at  least  of  the  ponderous  stone 
pillars  I  noticed  were  considerably  leaning,  prob- 
ably from  the  uneven  settling  of  the  ground. 

I  have  often  heard  it  asserted  by  intelligent  Amer- 
icans who  have  traveled  in  England,  that  they  were 
sure  there  was  such  a  seething  undercurrent  of 
discontent  as  would,  before  many  years,  result  in  a 
change  of  the  form  of  government.  But  it  seems 
to  me  that  nothing  of  the  kind  exists.  Of  course 
there  are  loud-talking  discontents,  but  they  rather 
confine  themselves  to  political  specialties.  I  once 
had  a  long  talk  with  an  English  radical,  a  lawyer, 
who  expressed  himself  very  freely  in  criticising 
certain  government  measures  ;  but  at  the  same  time 
he  declared  his  belief  that  on  the  whole  more  real 
liberty  and  individual  safety  existed  in  England 
than  in  America.  I  cannot  think  there  is  more 
foundation  for  the  opinion,  so  frequently  expressed 
by  travellers,  that  the  English  government  is  in  dan- 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL. 


ger  of  being. subverted,  than  the  opinion  entertained 
so  generally  in  England  that  the  United  States  gov- 
ernment is  soon  to  topple  over.  The  two  nations 
probably  entertain  about  the  same  opinion  of  each 
other's  political  condition. 

I  had  an  opportunity  one  evening  to  attend  a 
large  political  gathering  at  Lynn.  The  capacious 
hall  was  packed,  and  the  business  was  conducted 
in  just  about  the  same  manner  as  at  such  meetings 
with  us,  and  much  enthusiasm  prevailed.  A  mem- 
ber of  Parliament  made  a  speech,  but  was  not  elo- 
quent or  graceful  in  delivery.  He  was  succeeded 
by  one  who  spoke  much  better,  and  had  expecta- 
tions of  soon  being  a  member  of  that  august 
assembly  ;  and  there  were  other  good  speakers.  It 
was  a  radical  gathering  ;  and  while  certain  meas- 
ures of  the  government  were  severely  criticised, 
there  was  nothing  to  lead  to  the  opinion  that  any 
speaker  desired  a  change  in  the  form  of  govern- 
ment. 

Speaking  of  rampant  radicalism,  I  must  relate 
an  amusing  experience.  One  evening,  while  stand- 
ing by  the  Embankment  railing  near  Waterloo 
Bridge,  in  London,  a  man  made  himself  quite 
familiar  in  his  remarks,  thinking,  I  suppose,  that 
he  had  at  last  found  a  ready  listener.  He  needed 
no  leading  on,  and  soon  developed  into  an  enthusi- 
astic radical,  declaring,  with  energetic  gestures,  that 
England's  light  was  soon  to  be  extinguished ;  that 
her  destruction  was  close  at  hand ;  that  she  was 
weighed  and  found  wanting,  and  so  forth.  But 


222  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

after  a  pause,  as  if  to  take  breath,  he  more  quietly 
added  :  "  Yes,  I  believe  there  is  one  thing  that  yet 
may  save  her,  and  only  one."  I  ventured  to  ask 
what  that  mighty  remedy  was.  "  Morrison's  med- 
icines," was  his  triumphant  reply.  I  did  not  know 
that  I  had  been  talking  with  a  lunatic ;  and  had  it 
not  been  for  his  whimsical  conclusion,  might  have 
set  him  down  as  an  exponent  of  the  views  of  a 
large  class  of  his  countrymen,  and  shaped  my 
opinions  accordingly ;  for  he  really  made  some 
good  points. 

On  the  8th  of  October  I  left  Lynn,  taking  an 
early  train  for  London  ;  early  for  the  English  peo- 
ple, who  leave  their  downy  couches  hours  later,  as 
a  general  thing,  than  we  Americans. 

"  HARVEST    HOME." 

During  my  stay  in  Lynn  I  had  the  pleasure  of 
attending  a  Harvest  Home  service  —  an  observance 
which  has  been  held  in  rural  England  for  many 
generations,  and  which  has  furnished  a  precedent 
for  similar  observances  in  our  own  New  England  — 
in  our  own  Lynn. 

It  was  in  the  Parish  Church  of  St.  Mary  Magda- 
len, in  the  village  of  Pentney,  Norfolk,  near  Lynn. 
I  need  not  say  that  I  was  greatly  touched  by  the 
unaffected  fervor  with  which  the  villagers  engaged 
in  the  exercises,  and  the  fond  greetings  and  happy 
congratulations  of  old  and  young. 

A  similar  celebration  took  place  in  the  same 
church  the  succeeding  autumn.  And  from  a  paper 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  223 

kindly  sent  me  by  a  resident,  I  clip  the  following 
account,  premising  that  the  J.  J.  Coulton,  Esq.,  who 
is  mentioned  as  having  read  the  lessons,  is  the  same 
Solicitor  Coulton  who  wrote  the  Poem  read  at  the 
Banquet  held  on  the  Two  Hundred  and  Fiftieth 
Anniversary  of  the  settlement  of  our  own  Lynn. 
And  I  can  well  imagine  him,  with  his  white  hair 
and  flowing  beard,  proceeding  from  his  seat  in  the 
congregation  to  the  reading  desk,  and  there,  in  his 
sonorous  voice,  clear  enunciation,  and  serious 
manner,  performing  his  chosen  part.  He  has  wide- 
spread lands  in  the  vicinage,  here  a  field  of  grain 
and  there  a  pasture  dotted  with  flocks,  and  who, 
more  than  he,  should  heartily  engage  in  thanks- 
giving for  "  the  favorable  and  abundant  harvest"  ; 
or  who,  more  than  the  ladies  of  his  own  household, 
should  aid  with  willing  hands  in  the  tasteful  decora- 
tion of  the  venerable  sanctuary  which  was  the  scene 
of  the  celebration? 

"A  harvest  thanksgiving  service  for  the  recent 
favourable  and  abundant  harvest  was  held  in  the 
parish  church  on  Sunday  evening.  The  church 
was  prettily  decorated  by  the  ladies  of  the  congrega- 
tion, who  worked  hard  for  some  time  to  beautify 
the  chancel,  the  Holy  Table,  the  font,  the  pulpit, 
and  the  windows  ;  and  that  they  succeeded  in  their 
endeavours  was  evinced  by  the  very  general  remark 
that  the  church  had  never  been  seen  to  better  ad- 
vantage. Altogether  the  decorations  presented  a 
very  bright  and  cheerful  appearance,  and  added 
greatly  to  the  beauty  and  solemnity  of  the  service, 


224  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

which  commenced  with  the  harvest  hymn  '  Come, 
ye  thankful  people,  come, 'heartily  and  impressively 
sung  by  the  whole  congregation.  The  proper 
psalms  chosen  for  the  festival  were  the  65th  and 
i5Oth,  and  these,  together  with  the  hymns  and  canti- 
cles, were  carefully  rendered  in  a  way  which  re- 
flected great  credit  on  the  village  choir  and  their 
training.  The  prayers  were  said  by  the  Rev. 
J.  Ashley  Broad,  incumbent  of  St.  Anne's,  Dunbar, 
the  lessons  proper  for  the  occasion  (Deuteronomy 
xxvi,  i-io,  and  St.  Mark's  xii,  13  verse)  read  by 
J.  J.  Coulton,  Esq.,  one  of  the  church-wardens,  and 
a  carefully  thought-out,  earnest,  and  effective  ser- 
mon (from  Psalm  116,  v.  ii)  preached  to  an  atten- 
tive and  overflowing  congregation  by  the  Rev. 
G.  Gordon  Coulton,  B.A.,  Curate  of  Offley.  The 
collection  realised  £4  2s  6d,  and  was  equally  divided 
between  the  Lynn  Hospital  and  the  Hunstanton 
Convalescent  Home." 

The  Church  itself  is  a  venerable  edifice  of  gray 
stone,  of  no  great  architectural  pretension,  sur- 
rounded by  the  graves  of  the  village  forefathers, 
mingled  with  the  silent  resting-places  of  those  of 
later  generations  who  joined  with  their  glad  voices 
in  services  like  that  herein  commemorated. 

Many  famous  names  appear  in  Lynn's  history, 
and  she  has  from  time  to  time  been  represented  in 
Parliament  by  illustrious  statesmen.  Sir  Robert 
Walpole  was  elected  for  Lynn  in  1702.  He  soon 
became  Secretary  of  War,  then  Secretary  of  the 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  225 

Navy,  and  finally,  after  a  brief  period  of  eclipse, 
attained  positions  of  still  greater  dignity ;  and,  as 
has  been  remarked,  for  a  series  of  years  his  life 
may  be  truly  said  to  have  been  an  essential  part  of 
England's  history.  Canning,  too,  sometimes  called 
the  most  eloquent  and  sagacious  statesman  of  his 
day,  was  elected  to  represent  Lynn.  Lord  George 
Bentinck  was  returned  for  Lynn  in  1826,  and  con- 
tinued her  representative  till  his  death.  The  Catho- 
lic Emancipation  and  Reform  Bills  had  his  support. 
He  subsequently  became  the  acknowledged  head 
of  the  Conservative  party,  and  was  what  we  now 
call  a  protectionist.  On  the  death  of  Lord  Ben- 
tinck, Stanley,  Earl  of  Derby,  was  elected  for  Lynn. 
To  his  great  ability  in  the  management  of  public 
affairs  is  largely  attributed  the  surrender  of  the 
East  India  Company  to  the  Crown.  During  his 
Colonial  Secretaryship  the  great  Sepoy  revolt  was 
brought  to  a  close.  On  the  "decease  of  his  father, 
in  1869,  he  entered  the  House  of  Lords.  The  able 
and  accomplished  Governor  of  Madras  was  for 
many  years  Lynn's  representative  in  Parliament. 

A  number  of  the  substantial  settlers  of  New 
England  were  from  Lynn  Regis  or  its  vicinity,  and 
Lynn,  Mass.,  still  retains  names  thus  transplanted. 
For  instance  :  there  was  a  Thomas  Laighton,  Mayor 
of  Lynn  Regis  in  1476  ;  and  one  of  our  most  active 
and  enterprising  settlers  was  a  Thomas  Laighton, 
who  located  near  Saugus  River  in  1635,  and  from 
whom  the  present  Laighton  street  takes  its  name. 
Edward  Baker  was  Mayor  of  Lynn  Regis  in  1550  : 


226  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

and  from  the  Edward  Baker,  who  came  hither  in 
1630,  Daniel  C.  Baker,  our  third  Mayor,  descended. 
Richard  Hood,  ancestor  of  George  Hood,  our  first 
Mayor,  was  an  early  settler  from  Lynn  Regis  and 
located  on  Nahant  street.  Benjamin  Keene  (a  later 
name  with  us)  was  Mayor  of  old  Lynn  in  1683. 

In  1737,  Charles,  Lord  Viscount  Townsend,  was 
Lord  High  Steward  of  Lynn  Regis.  He  undoubt- 
edly belonged  to  the  same  Townsend  family  with 
Thomas  Townsend  who  came  here  from  Norfolk 
and  settled  as  a  farmer,  at  an  earlier  date,  and  of 
whom  many  descendants  remain  here  and  else- 
where in  New  England.  Daniel  Townsend,  a  lineal 
descendant  of  Thomas,  was  the  patriotic  hero  killed 
at  the  battle  of  Lexington. 

In  the  north  alley  of  St.  Margaret's  Church, 
Lynn  Regis,  there  is  a  black  marble  bearing  this 
inscription:  "Here  lieth  the  Body  of  Mr.  James 
Townshend,  who  wa's  Organist  of  this  church  36 
years,  and  died  the  8th  of  January,  1724.  Aged 
54  years.  Also  Elizabeth,  his  Mother,  who  died 
the  2igt  of  April,  1733.  Aged  84  years." 

It  need  not  be  repeated  here  that  Lynn,  Mass., 
now  mother  of  about  twenty  towns  of  that  name  in 
the  United  States,  was  called  Lynn  in  compliment 
to  Rev.  Samuel  Whiting  who  at  one  time  ministered 
in  St.  Margaret's. 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  227 


CHAPTER   IV. 

ELY    AND    CAMBRIDGE. 

ON  THE  eighth  of  October,  I  left  Lynn  Regis, 
taking  an  early  London  train.  In  about  two  hours 
we  reached  Ely,  an  ancient,  well-paved,  cleanly 
and  prim-looking  town,  and  one  well  worth  a  visit. 
The  grand  old  Cathedral,  one  of  the  finest  in  Eng- 
land, is  conspicuous  from  every  point.  It  is  an  im- 
mense building,  so  lofty,  so  elaborate,  so  imposing, 
without  and  within,  that  one  almost  feels  as  if  the 
builders  themselves  were  worthy  of  worship.  It  is 
very  ancient,  a  portion  at  least  having  been  built 
more  than  seven  hundred  years  ago.  There  are 
other  buildings  adjacent,  grim  with  age,  which  were 
adjuncts  to  the  holy  purposes  for  which  it  was 
erected.  These  adjuncts  to  the  old  Cathedrals  were 
the  dispensaries  of  food  for  the  poor,  comfort  for 
the  miserable,  schools,  hospitals,  homes  for  the 
weary  and  heavy  laden.  Yet,  as  such  good  offices 
have  in  our  day  so  passed  into  other  hands,  the 
utilitarian  may  say  it  is  not  well  to  be  too  enthusi- 
astic over  piles  of  stone,  however  rich  or  graceful. 
But  the  time  will  not  soon  come  when  these  grand 
old  edifices,  which  now  so  often  appear  to  stand  in 
stately  loneliness,  but  around  which  cluster  such 
memories,  will  cease  to  be  venerated. 

While  I  lingered  near,  the  chiming  bells  an- 
nounced that  a  service  was  about  to  commence,  so 
I  entered  and  took  a  seat.  The  surpliced  choir  of 


228  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

boys  and  young  men  performed  their  part  in  an 
admirable  manner,  but  the  choral  sweetness  seemed 
in  a  manner  wasted,  for  the  auditors  were  very  few 
in  number.  I  was  obliged  to  retire  while  the  glo- 
rious Te  Deuin  was  being  chanted,  for  the  purpose  of 
taking  a  train.  It  is  fair  to  remark,  however,  that 
the  small  attendance  may  be  accounted  for  by  the 
fact  that  it  was  on  a  Monday  forenoon,  a  time  when 
some  feel  relieved  from  the  onerous  duties  of  Sun- 
day, and  rather  give  precedence  to  domestic  than 
devotional  duties. 

In  about  half  an  hour  from  Ely  we  reached 
Cambridge,  the  renowned  seat  of  learning  —  Cam- 
bridge from  whose  stately  old  college  walls  have 
emerged,  for  generation  after  generation,  some  of 
the  noblest  men  who  have  ever  lived,  to  shed  upon 
the  world  the  light  of  their  trained  minds. 

In  viewing  the  massive  buildings  of  the  various 
colleges,  some  of  them  hoary  with  age,  and  bear- 
ing the  now  unmeaning  sculptures  so  cunningly 
wrought  by  hands,  from  which  centuries  ago  the 
chisel  dropped  never  to  be  resumed,  we  in  fancy 
behold  issuing  from  the  sombre  portals  the  gowned 
and  mitred  apparitions  that  represent  the  old  learn- 
ing and  the  old  religion.  And  the  procession  moves 
on  through  intervening  years,  till  we  see,  without 
the  aid  of  fancy,  the  square-capped  boys  of  our 
own  day. 

Cambridge  is  a  large  and  fine  city,  and  especially 
to  the  scholar  one  of  the  most  interesting  in  this  or 
any  land. 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL. 


CHAPTER  V. 


ROUEN. 


I  WOULD  advise  any  one  travelling  in  Europe  to 
visit  Rouen  if  possible.  It  is,  with  the  exception 
of  Paris,  conceded  to  be  the  most  interesting  city 
in  France  —  interesting  in  the  beauty  of  its  location, 
its  architecture,  and  its  historical  associations.  It 
occupies  both  banks  of  the  Seine,  which  is  naviga- 
ble for  large  vessels  up  to  the  docks*  I  should 
judge,  however,  from  what  I  observed  in  traversing 
the  highways  and  byways,  that  it  was  far  more  of  a 
manufacturing  than  commercial  place,  though  the 
business  is  evidently  done  with  less  bustle  and  rush 
than  is  characteristic  of  an  American  or  even  Eng- 
lish city. 

Its  architecture  may  with  truth  be  called  grand. 
It  is  compactly  built,  chiefly  of  cream-colored  stone, 
and  the  principal  streets  are  cleanly  and  filled  with 
elegant  stores.  In  some  of  the  older  parts,  how- 
ever, the  streets  are  narrow  and  not  very  cleanly. 
Beautiful  hills  from  which  splendid  views  may  be 
obtained  overlook  the  town,  and  the  descent  towards 
the  river  is  very  considerable. 

One  of  the  principal  streets  is  named  Rue  Jeanne 
Dare  —  such  being  the  spelling  on  the  signs  — 
commemorative  of  that  remarkable  heroine,  the 
Maid  of  Orleans,  who  with  such  wonderful  enthu- 
siasm and  undaunted  courage  led  her  countrymen 
upon  the  battle-field,  and  inspired  anew  patriotism 


230  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

and  hope.  One  of  the  first  objects  pointed  out  to 
me  was  the  old  prison  in  which  she  was  confined 
during  the  trial  which  resulted  in  her  being  burned 
at  the  stake  ;  and  the  spot  on  which  this  fatal  exploit 
was  consummated,  to  the  shame  of  the  British  com- 
mander, is  still  pointed  out  in  the  Place  de  la  Pucelle 
through  which  I  daily  passed.  I  noticed  in  the  Rue 
Rivoli  in  Paris  an  equestrian  statue  commemora- 
tive of  the  heroine. 

Rouen  has  been  called  an  "  immense  museum  of 
churches,  steeples,  spires,  towers  and  old  houses." 
The  Cathedral  is  one  of  the  most  splendid  in  Eu- 
rope. Parts  of  it  belong  to  the  eleventh  and  twelfth 
centuries ;  and  later  years  have  contributed  their 
portions,  till  it  exceeds  in  grandeur  all  churches  in 
the  world  with  the  exception  of  about  half-a-dozen. 
Its  Butter  Tower,  so  called,  dates  from  1507,  and 
was  erected  by  contributions  from  those  to  whom 
the  use  of  butter  during  Lent  was  allowed  by  dis- 
pensation. The  length  of  the  building  is  four  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet,  and  it  is  lighted  by  a  hundred 
and  thirty  windows,  some  in  colors  of  extraordinary 
brilliancy,  and  some  in  softened  tints,  many  of 
them  delineating  great  scriptural  events.  Then 
there  are  the  rich  sculptures  and  carvings,  the  pic- 
tures, and  other  costly  adornments,  which  it  would 
be  useless  to  attempt  to  describe. 

Besides  the  Cathedral,  Rouen  has  a  number  of 
other  remarkable  churches,  ancient  and  beautiful. 
The  enormous  pictured  windows  of  the  Abbey 
Church  of  St.  Ouen  exceed  even  those  of  Notre 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  231 

Dame,  in  Paris,  in  splendor.  St.  Vincent,  too,  is 
famed  for  its  richness. 

As  I  was  crossing  the  open  space  in  front  of  St. 
Ouen,  and  paused  to  admire  its  imposing  propor- 
tions, I  observed  that  a  door  was  open,  and  could 
not  resist  the  temptation  to  enter,  late  as  it  was. 
The  shades  of  evening  were  fast  gathering,  and 
though  it  was  dim,  almost  dark  below,  as  I  threaded 
my  way  among  the  ponderous  pillars,  with  steps 
faintly  echoing  in  the  lofty  arches,  there  was  suffi- 
cient light  above  to  make  clear  the  double  row  of 
gorgeous  windows.  It  seemed  as  if  colors  could 
not  be  wrought  into  more  striking  forms.  In  front 
of  one  or  two  of  the  shrines  dim  lights  were  burn- 
ing, and  as  I  stood  musing  by  one  of  the  over- 
shadowing pillars,  a  lady  dressed  in  black  glided 
in,  as  noiselessly  as  a  spectre,  bowed  before  the 
image  of  the  Virgin,  and  dropped  upon  her  knees. 
Then  I  heard  a  faint  step  in  the  distance,  and  a  tall 
man  passed  from  behind  a  pillar,  crossed  toward 
where  the  lady  was  kneeling,  and  disappeared  in 
the  gathering  darkness.  These  were  the  only  per- 
sons I  saw  there,  and  the  whole  scene  was  almost 
fascinating  in  the  weird  fancies  it  called  up.  But 
enough  about  the  old  churches. 

The  Palace  of  Justice,  an  ancient  and  grand  edi- 
fice, rich  in  sculptured  adornments,  and  formidable 
in  dimensions,  having  steeples  and  pinnacles  enough 
to  supply  all  the  destitute  meeting-houses  of  New 
England  with  one  at  least,  cannot  fail  to  attract  the 
traveler's  attention. 


232  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

Seeing  a  number  of  persons  about  a  basement 
door,  as  I  came  down  the  steps  from  above-,  I  went 
in  and  from  the  very  atmosphere  soon  found  where 
I  was.  It  was  the  Police  Court  then  in  session.  A 
lawyer,  in  square  cap  and  gown,  delivered  himself 
in  tones  of  apparent  moderation,  and  then  sat  down  ; 
whereupon  the  Judge,  in  a  voice  not  remarkable 
for  gentleness,  seemed  to  argue  familiarly  with  a 
female  culprit,  or  witness,  standing  before  him 
outside  the  bar,  and  who,  in  a  high  key  and  with 
great  volubility,  was  apparently  doing  her  best  to 
enlighten  him  on  the  subject  in  hand.  But  the 
gabble,  the  smells,  and  the  oppressive  air  of  the 
court  room,  compelled  me  to  hastily  retreat. 

Another  conspicuous  object  in  Rouen  is  the  Tower 
of  St.  Andre,  in  Jeanne  Dare  street.  It  once  be- 
longed to  a  church  which  has  long  since  disappeared, 
and  has  weathered  the  storms  of  five  hundred  years. 

The  view  from  the  bridges  that  cross  the  Seine 
is  at  night  very  striking.  The  long,  curving  lines 
of  brilliant  lights,  with  their  doubles  dancing  upon 
the  rippling  waters,  and  others  blinking  upon  the 
far-off  heights,  the  shooting  boats,  tapering  masts, 
and  dark  hulls,  with  the  moving  masses  of  people 
in  the  bright  thoroughfare  that  borders  the  river, 
afford  an  almost  fairy-like  spectacle. 

I  would  most  certainly  urge  every  visitor  to  the 
Old  World,  who  is  fond  of  the  stately  and  beautiful 
in  architecture,  of  the  picturesque  and  the  historical, 
to  visit  Rouen.  At  Rouen  I  first  experienced  a 
little  difficulty  with  the  language. 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  233 

Occasionally,  in  a  window  at  Rouen,  may  be 
seen  an  announcement  something  like  this  :  "  englis 
spoken  here."  But  I  once  or  twice  found  that  the 
"  englis"  was  worse  than  the  spelling.  However, 
it  is  not  fair  to  leave  the  impression  that  one  cannot 
usually  make  himself  understood.  By  resorting  to 
gestures  and  grimaces  I  experienced  little  difficulty, 
as  every  one  seemed  desirous  of  doing  his  best  to 
give  information. 

I  believe  I  have  previously  spoken  of  the  polite- 
ness of  the  English  people,  and  no  one  will  doubt 
that  the  French  are  their  equals  in  the  social  graces. 
I  may  be  permitted  to  state  an  instance  to  the  point. 
Being  at  the  Bastile  in  Paris  one  morning,  and  de- 
sirous of  going  to  Pere  La  Chaise  Cemetery,  I  asked 
a  gentleman  near  me  if  he  could  speak  English. 
He  shook  his  head,  to  show  that  he  could  not.  I 
then  simply  said  "Pere  La  Chaise?  "giving  the  words 
as  much  of  the  French  accent  as  I  could,  and  pointed 
in  the  direction  in  which  I  supposed  the  Cemetery 
lay.  He  instantly  comprehended  my  meaning, 
stepped  into  the  office,  got  me  a  ticket,  and  stood 
by  till  he  saw  me  in  the  right  omnibus,  which  was 
certainly  very  kind,  seeing  that  in  that  confused 
meeting  place  of  omnibuses,  bound  for  all  quarters, 
horse-cars,  and  all  kinds  of  carriages,  even  a  resi- 
dent might  be  in  danger  of  taking  the  wrong  course. 

I  noticed  that  the  drivers  of  teams  use  the  same 
expressions  to  guide  their  horses  that  we  do —  a  fact 
which  leads  towards  the  conclusion  that  there  is  a 
sort  of  universal  equine  language.  And  it  is  a  pity 


234  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

that  that  unfortunate  Tower  of  Babel  business 
should  have  occurred  to  make  such  mischief  in  the 
human  family.  But  gestures,  noddings,  and  facial 
contortions,  mean  much  the  same  thing  the  world 
over,  indicating  perhaps  that  spoken  language  is 
really  artificial. 

One  word  more  concerning  the  Maid  of  Orleans 
before  we  leave  Rouen  :  Joan  of  Arc — Jeanne  a"  Arc 
—  as  the  name  is  spelled  in  her  native  tongue,  was 
born  in  the  French  village  of  Domremy,  in  1412. 
As  a  girl  she  was  modest,  dutiful,  and  pious,  in  her 
peasant  home.  But  she  early  became  inspired  by 
the  belief  that  she  was  the  divinely-appointed  in- 
strument for  the  relief  of  her  country  from  English 
domination.  By  her  patriotic  enthusiasm  and  ex- 
traordinary influence  she  became  a  military  leader, 
with  undaunted  courage  and  rare  strategy  leading 
veteran  troops  to  the  battle-field.  After  several 
notable  successes  she  became  a  prisoner  to  the 
English,  and  was  immured  in  the  old  prison,  still  a 
conspicuous  object  in  Rouen.  She  was  tried  on  the 
charge  of  witchcraft,  condemned,  and  burned  at 
the  stake  in  the  Place  de  la  Pucelle,  Rouen,  May 
30,  1431,  that  city  then  being  the  headquarters  of 
the  British  commander.  Her  execution  has  ever 
been  considered  a  deep  stain  on  the  character  of 
that  representative  of  English  soldiery.  She  was 
but  about  nineteen  years  of  age  at  the  time  of  her 
execution.  And  twenty-five  years  afterward,  a 
decree  reversed  her  condemnation  and  she  was  de- 
clared innocent.  Directly  and  indirectly  the  Maid 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  235 

of  Orleans  accomplished  great  things  for  France, 
inasmuch  that  to  her  is  to  be  attributed  the  down- 
fall of  English  domination  there.  It  is  recently 
reported  that  after  four  hundred  and  fifty  years  the 
church  has  decreed  beatification. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


I  REACHED  Paris  by  a  pleasant  railroad  run 
from  Rouen,  and  was  soon  in  comfortable  lodgings 
in  the  Hotel  de  Londres  et  de  Netv  York,  In 
traversing  the  streets  of  this  splendid  capital  the 
stranger  is  at  first  almost  bewildered  by  the  rush 
and  glitter.  But,  as  in  all  such  cases,  the  mind 
soons  adjusts  itself,  and  one  is  enabled  to  see  things 
as  they  really  are. 

The  grand  parks,  superb  public  gardens,  the 
showy  boulevards,  the  enormous  piles  of  statuary, 
the  monuments,  the  fountains,  the  magnificent  pub- 
lic buildings,  all  deeply  interest  the  stranger.  But 
many  of  them  to  the  more  thoughtful,  and  to  those 
familiar  with  French  history,  are  simply  reminders 
of  events.  As  one  loiters  through  the  garden  of  the 
Tuileries,  or  along  the  beautiful  avenues  of  the 
Champs  Elysees,  and  pauses  before  the  Egyptian 
obelisk  in  the  Place  de  la  Concorde,  he  thinks  not 
so  much  of  the  record  it  bears  of  what  occurred  in 


236  LEGACY    OF    AN     OCTOGENARIAN. 

old  Egypt  thousands  of  years  ago,  as  of  the  events 
that  took  place  in  the  Reign  of  Terror,  upon  the 
spot  where  it  now  stands.  There  stood  the  guillo- 
tine which,  one  hundred  years  ago  this  very  year, 
1893,  struck  off  the  heads  of  Louis  the  Sixteenth 
and  Marie  Antoinette.  And  soon  nearly  three 
thousand  other  heads  dropped  there.  But  it  was 
in  the  old  Place  de  Greve,  now  the  Place  de  la 
Hotel  de  Ville,  where  thirty  thousand  heads  were 
severed. 

The  venerable  church  of  Notre  Dame  is  of  course 
visited  by  every  stranger.  It  was  begun  in  1163 
and  completed  in  1312.  The  grandeur  and  taste 
displayed  in  its  architectural  surroundings  are  not 
surpassed  by  anything  I  have  yet  seen.  Upon  the 
ponderous  doorway  of  the  principal  entrance  is  in- 
scribed "  Liberte,  Equalite,  Fraternite"  And 
when  once  within,  one  is  almost  struck  with  awe 
at  what  he  beholds.  The  recollection  of  many 
events,  some  brilliant,  some  painful,  some  shock- 
ing, press  upon  the  mind  as  soon  as  the  first  survey 
is  completed.  Brilliant  was  the  scene  when  the 
imperial  crown  was  placed  upon  the  heads  of 
Napoleon  the  First  and  Josephine ;  and  brilliant 
the  scenes  when  Napoleon  the  Third  was  here 
both  crowned  and  joined  in  wedlock  with  his 
charmer  Eugenie.  But  to  the  many  shocking 
scenes  enacted  within  those  hoary  walls  during  the 
terrors  of  the  Revolution  we  need  not  allude. 

Notre  Dame,  it  may  almost  literally  be  said, 
stands  upon  the  river  bank,  its  two  ponderous  towers 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  237 

rising  to  the  height  of  more  than  two  hundred 
feet,  forming  a  landmark  of  rare  dignity  and  grace. 
Near  by  a  noble  bridge  spans  the  stream,  and  as  I 
stood  upon  it,  centered  in  the  grand  panorama,  the 
waters  placid  and  glowing  in  the  sunshine,  I  could 
not  avoid  reverting  to  the  dark  days  when  those 
waters  were  ruffled  by  the  whirlwind  of  intestine 
war,  and  made  red  by  the  blood  of  sacrificed  inno- 
cence. 

Nor  does  the  stranger  neglect  to  visit  Pere  La 
Chaise ',  the  solemn  city  of  the  dead,  where  repose 
the  remains  of  so  many  of  the  famous  in  the  world's 
history.  It  may  indeed  be  called  a  city,  having 
paved  avenues  flanked  by  innumerable  monuments,, 
modeled  as  temples  and  buildings  of  classic  de- 
sign. But  it  is  a  city  of  silence ;  the  rush  and 
noise  of  traffic  are  not  seen  or  heard  there.  The 
day  of  my  visit,  and  I  presume  at  all  times,  the 
floral  and  other  decorations  were  enough  to  aston- 
ish one  not  accustomed  to  such  displays. 

Singular  as  it  may  seem  to  the  unsentimental 
mind,  the  beautiful  and  costly  open  temple,  where 
side  by  side  lie  the  marble  effigies  of  Abelard  and 
Heloise,  is  still  perhaps  more  visited  by  strangers 
than  any  spot  on  the  whole  grounds.  The  two 
have  lain  at  rest  more"  than  seven  hundred  years ; 
at  rest,  after  the  weariness  and  distressing  agi- 
tations of  their  unnatural  lives.  Strange  is  it 
not,  that  such  guilt  as  that  of  Abelard,  eminent 
scholar  as  he  was,  and  the  unyielding  attachment 
of  Heloise  to  an  object  which  she  knew  to  be 


238  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

unworthy,  should  through  so  many  generations  con- 
tinue to  excite  an  interest  that  seemingly  must 
endure  forever?  I  saw  there,  hung  upon  the  tall 
railing  that  protects  the  tomb,  which  otherwise 
would  be  destroyed  by  relic  gatherers,  fresh  flowers 
that  must  have  been  placed  there  but  a  few  hours 
before.  Within  the  railing  the  ground  had  just 
been  cleanly  raked,  and  the  box  borders  looked 
green  and  vigorous. 

It  is  curious  to  observe  what  differences  in  the 
minor  customs  and  fashions  a  little  change  in  ter- 
ritory makes.  I  noticed,  for  instance,  that  in  Paris 
ladies  often  choose  a  seat  upon  the  top  of  an  omni- 
bus or  street  car,  and  sometimes  even  prefer  to 
stand  on  the  front  platform  of  the  car  beside  the 
driver,  to  taking  an  inside  seat.  They  seem  to 
.like  the  most  airy  places,  and  to  be  willing  to  avoid 
discommoding  others  by  their  preferences.  I  have 
known  such  a  thing  in  our  country  as  a  car  window 
being  kept  open  by  a  lady,  much  to  the  annoyance 
of  other  passengers,  when  she  must  have  known 
that  it  was  exceedingly  disagreeable  to  those  about 
her ;  but  in  France  I  saw  nothing  of  the  kind  ;  yet 
I  do  not  desire  to  intimate  that  our  American  ladies 
are  less  polite  than  the  French. 

In  England  the  law  requires  that  carriages  in 
meeting  shall  pass  on  the  left,  instead  of  on  the  right, 
as  with  us ;  and  an  American,  before  he  realizes 
it,  often  shivers  under  the  apprehension  that  a  col- 
lision will  inevitably  take  place.  But  on  the  side- 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL. 


239 


walks  people  pass  to  the  right,  which  seems  like  a 
mild  protest  against  the  law  relating  to  carriages. 
In  France,  carriages  pass  to  the  right  in  accordance 
with  reason  and  our  law. 

One  often  meets  in  the  streets  of  Paris  and  other 
French  cities  ecclesiastics  in  gowns  and  unique 
hats.  And  I  sometimes  fancied  that  in  my  broad- 
brimmed  soft  felt  hat  I  was  mistaken  for  one  of 
some  reverend  order,  so  uncommon  was  it  to  see 
anything  but  the  stove-pipe  or  hard  round-top  hat. 
An  Englishman  in  Paris  can  generally  be  distin- 
guished by  his  having  an  umbrella. 

A  traveller  is  occasionally  put  to  inconvenience 
by  variances  in  the  more  minute  customs  of  differ- 
ent countries.  In  France,  for  instance,  soap  is  not 
furnished  at  the  hotel  lavatories,  as  each  guest  is 
expected  to  furnish  his  own.  The  reason  is  not 
referable  to  parsimony,  but  to  extreme  nicety  — 
as  if  one  would  not  use  the  soap  of  another  any 
more  than  his  toothbrush. 

In  France  and  Belgium  it  is  common  for  the  wo- 
men, especially  the  younger,  to  appear  in  the  streets 
bare-headed,  or  rather  with  only  the  covering  that 
nature  provides ;  this,  however,  they  dispose  of  in 
a  neat,  often  picturesque  and  sometimes  coquettish 
fashion.  The  elderly  women' usually  wear  white 
ruffled  caps.  The  upper  class,  however,  as  we 
all  know,  are  adorned  with  bonnets  and  hats  that 
give  fashion  to  the  world. 

Months  would  be  required  for  even  a  fair  glimpse 
at  the  remarkable  things  in  Paris,  the  richest  of  all 


240  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

cities,  especially  in  things  that  pertain  to  the  ele- 
gancies of  life.  There  is  the  Louvre,  with  its  re- 
puted ten  miles  of  paintings  by  the  most  eminent 
artists  the  world  has  yet  produced,  its  sculptures, 
its  antiquities,  and  its  hundreds  of  other  objects  of 
never-flagging  interest.  But  the  imperfect  descrip- 
tions that  could  be  given  here  need  not  be  at- 
tempted, so  often  has  the  field  of  description  been 
traversed. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

BRUSSELS FIELD    OF    WATERLOO. 

I  LEFT  Paris  on  the  morning  of  October  18,  in 
the  train  for  Brussels.  The  day  was  pleasant,  and 
many  interesting  views  of  the  country  were  ob- 
tained. Harvesting  was  going  on  in  the  fields, 
and  every  one  seemed  busy.  All  through  this 
region  great  quantities  of  beets  are  raised  for  the 
manufacture  of.  sugar.  The  cottages  looked  neat 
and  the  fields  well  cultivated.  But  I  was  told  that 
it  had  been  an  extremely  hard  year  for  the  peasan- 
try^ and  that  it  was  feared  there  would  be  much 
suffering  during  the  coming  winter. 

It  looks  odd  to  see  plowed  land,  pastures,  and 
mowing  fields,  without  fences  of  any  kind.  Many 
women  and  girls  were  at  work  on  the  land  doing 
such  labor  as  in  our  country  falls  to  the  lot  of  men. 
But,  as  I  was  informed,  there  is  a  fast-growing 


NOTES    OF  TRAVEL. 


24I 


discontent  among  the  females  at  their  hard  lot.  The 
younger  ones  prefer  going  to  Paris,  Brussels,  and 
other  large  cities,  to  hire  out  as  servants ;  and  in 
too  many  cases,  it  is  feared  drift  into  occupations 
far  less  respectable  than  that  of  servants. 

As  we  passed  through  patches  of  wood,  I  noticed 
that  the  foliage  in  many  cases  had  assumed  the 
gay  autumn  tints  that  so  beautify  the  New  England 
woods,  though  the  brilliant  red  was  less  prevalent. 

It  happened  that  in  the  same  compartment  of  the 
car  I  took  at  Paris,  there  was  a  middle-aged  lady 
with  her  three  little  children.  As  I  entered,  she 
facetiously  remarked  that  she  was  afraid  her  three 
bundles  of  roguish  luggage,  eyeing  her  three  little 
ones  with  a  motherly  smile,  would  annoy  me.  So 
I  knew  she  could  speak  English,  though  the  chil- 
dren spoke  only  French.  I  soon  found  that  she 
was  a  lady  of  culture,  had  traveled  extensively, 
was  very  observing,  and  withal  had  a  good  com- 
mon-sense wray  of  looking  at  things. 

I  spoke  of  visiting  the  battle-field  of  Waterloo. 
She  then  said  she  was  born  in  Waterloo,  educated 
in  Brussels,  and  while  still  young  had  emigrated 
with  her  parents  to  America,  where,  for  many 
years,  she  had  lived  in  Georgia  and  South  Carolina, 
and  was  soon  to  go  back  to  the  United  States ;  that 
a  part  of  the  Waterloo  battle-field  was  owned  by  her 
family,  and  that  her  grandfather  was  in  the  battle. 
She  also  said,  in  answer  to  some  of  my  inquiries, 
that  she  had  heard  the  battle  so  much  talked  about, 
day  after  day,  at  home,  and  had  seen  so  many 

16 


242  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

plans,  that  she  had  become  quite  confused  as  to 
details ;  and,  moreover,  believing  that  war  was  a 
horrid  resort,  and  one  that  should  never  be  engaged 
in  by  civilized  people,  that  terrible  event  in  the 
history  of  her  native  place  was  shocking  to  her. 
She  had  seen  much  of  the  Southern  side  of  our 
Civil  War,  and  I  was  surprised  at  the  remarkably 
clear  idea  she  had  of  the  present  state  of  affairs  in 
the  United  States,  both  North  and  South. 

When  we  arrived  at  the  Belgian  frontier,  the 
train  was  stopped  for  a  Custom  House  examination. 
The  baggage  was  taken  into  a  room,  and  as  I  was 
puzzling  over  the  animated  discourse  of  the  officer, 
my  lady  friend  came  in  and  asked  if  I  wished  to 
say  anything  to  the  man  in  authority.  I  said  I  only 
wanted  to  tell  him  that  there  was  my  valise  and  um- 
brella, and  he  might  examine  them  to  his  heart's  con- 
tent. She  smiled  and  told  him  something,  I  did  not 
know  what,  and  he  immediately  put  his  official  chalk 
mark  upon  the  valise,  and  signified  that  I  might 
take  it  and  depart  in  peace.  She  had  told  me  be- 
fore that  she  feared  a  rigid  examination,  as  once,  in 
passing  that  frontier,  the  passengers,  ladies  and  all, 
even  had  their  pockets  examined.  Of  all  places, 
however,  at  the  present  time,  she  added,  she 
thought  the  custom  officers  of  New  York  and 
Spain  were  the  most  uncivil,  if  money  were  not 
offered.  At  Mons,  a  few  miles  beyond  the  fron- 
tier, a  fine-looking  gentleman  was  in  waiting  to  re- 
ceive the  little  family,  and  I  bade  them  adieu.  I 
had  really  received  much  interesting  information 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  243 

regarding  the  country  through  which  we  passed. 
Just  before  leaving,  she  said  that  in  Brussels  I 
should  find  a  larger  proportion  of  English-speak- 
ing people  than  in  Paris,  for  the  Belgians  had  not 
such  prejudices  against  the  English  and  Germans  as 
the  French  had  —  prejudices  that  in  some  sort  led 
them  to  despise  even  the  languages.  And  I  soon 
found  that  she  was  right. 

Brussels  is  a  beautiful  city  —  neat,  clean,  airy, 
and  most  cheerful  in  aspect.  It  has  some  of  the 
handsomest  residences  in  Europe,  and  is  well  pro- 
vided with  public  conveyances  —  horse-cars,  omni- 
buses, cabs  and  coaches.  And,  by  steam-cars,  one 
can  easily  get  to  any  part  of  the  continent. 

A  few  things  may  be  seen  in  the  streets  of  Brus- 
sels and  other  parts  of  Belgium  that  to  a  New 
Englander  look  odd.  He  may  see  dogs  harnessed 
into  small  carts,  dragging  along  their  often  too- 
heavy  loads  with  the  docility  of  little  horses ;  and 
in  doing  their  work  they  really  seem  to  feel  a  sort 
of  satisfaction,  as  if  they  thought  they  were  earn- 
ing their  living.  He  may  also  see  men,  women, 
boys  and  girls,  clattering  about  in  clumsy,  wooden 
shoes.  Every-day  traffic  is  but  partially  suspended 
on  Sunday  ;  and  Sunday  evening  is  chiefly  devoted 
to  amusements. 

The  city  is  delightfully  shaded,  better,  it  is  said, 
than  almost  any  other  in  Europe,  and  the  principal 
park  is  supplied  with  everything  necessary  to  make 
it  a  most  enjoyable  resort,  though  the  nude  statu- 
ary would  to  an  Englishman  or  an  American  seem 


244  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

a  little  objectionable.  Then  there  are  costly  foun- 
tains, an  abundance  of  marble  groups,  supposed  to 
be  classical,  the  King's  Palace,  the  Houses  of  Par- 
liament, Colonne  de  Congrts,  and  the  Cathedral, 
all  worthy  of  the  traveler's  inspection.  Nor  should 
the  celebrated  carpet  and  lace  manufactories  be 
overlooked.  I  was  much  interested  in  a  visit  to 
one  of  the  latter.  The  lace,  which  is  so  much  ad- 
mired by  the  ladies,  is  made  entirely  by  hand,  and 
it  was  curious  to  watch  the  delicate  web  as  it  grew 
beneath  the  nimble  fingers  of  the  work-women. 

There  is  an  old  Cathedral  in  Brussels,  rich  in 
sculptures,  carvings  and  illuminated  windows,  its 
front  having  two  ponderous  towers,  much  in  the 
style  of  Notre  Dame  at  Paris.  And  there  are  one 
or  two  other  churches  rivaling  the  Cathedral  in 
some  respects.  Then  there  is  the  splendid  Town 
Hall,  with  many  fine  historical  paintings  and  some 
hangings  of  rich  Gobelin  tapestry.  I  was  shown 
into  the  mayor's  waiting  room,  the  council  cham- 
ber, and  divers  other  apartments ;  but  the  one  most 
sadly  interesting  was  the  banqueting  room,  noble 
in  its  proportions  and  grand  in  its  finish.  There  I 
lingered  a  few  moments,  for  it  was  the  very  room 
in  which  the  beauty  and  fashion  of  Brussels,  with 
Wellington  and  many  of  the  British  officers,  were 
assembled  at  a  ball,  when  suddenly,  like  an  electric 
flash,  the  astounding  news  ran  in  whispers  through 
the  gay  company,  that  Bonaparte  had,  like  a 
dreaded  apparition,  appeared  near  Waterloo.  I  saw 
the  little  gallery  where  the  musicians  were  perched 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  245 

when    the    instruments    fell    from    their   trembling 
hands. 


BATTLE    OF    WATERLOO. 


In  walking  about  the  streets  of  Brussels,  some  of 
the  scenes  so  vividly  depicted  by  Madame  d'Arblay, 
in  her  account  of  the  battle,  came  forcibly  to  mind. 
When  she  tells  us  that  the  cannonading  was  dis- 
tinctly heard,  and  that  ever  and  anon  panting  cou- 
riers arrived,  one  announcing  that  the  British  line 
was  broken  and  Wellington  in  rapid  retreat,  another 
that  the  French  were  so  fast  melting  away  that 
their  utter  defeat  was  but  the  question  of  an  hour, 
we  can  in  a  measure  realize  the  anxious  suspense 
that  was  everywhere  felt.  She  herself  had  her 
goods  packed,  ready  for  instantaneous  flight,  should 
the  news  of  the  triumphant  approach  of  Bonaparte 
be  confirmed.  And  then,  when  the  battle  was  over 
and  the  rejoicings  at  the  great  victory  began,  few 
feeling  hearts  were  not  saddened  at  hearing  day 
and  night,  for  a  whole  week,  rumbling  over  the 
pavements  the  ambulances  that  bore  the  wounded 
and  the  dead.  Yes,  while  perambulating  those  now 
peaceful  and  beautiful  streets,  one  cannot  avoid  a 
thought  of  these  things. 

And  then,  as  to  the  scene  of  that  terrific  strife  — 
the  ground  on  which  towering  and  long-successful 
ambition  met  so  signal  a  defeat.  As  I  stood  upon 
the  field  of  Waterloo,  it  seemed  easy  for  any  one 
who  has  read  the  authentic  account  of  the  battle, 
and  having  a  mere  outline  map  in  his  hand,  to  trace 


246  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

the  really  important  movements  of  the  contending 
armies. 

Standing  upon  the  top  of  the  "Lion  Mound," 
which  is  ascended  by  two  hundred  and  twenty 
steps,  and  which  marks  the  spot  where  the  center 
of  the  British  line  rested,  as  well  as  the  spot  where 
the  Prince  of  Orange  fell,  the  observer  finds  him- 
self centered  in  a  beautiful  plain,  extending  far 
away  on  either  side,  without  fences  to  mark  the 
boundaries  of  the  several  fields,  some  devoted  to 
vegetable  crops,  and  some  lying  in  lawn-like  beauty 
as  mowing  or  grazing  lands.  They  were  about 
harvesting  when  I  was  there,  and  immense  loads 
of  sugar  beets  were  seen  here  and  there  moving 
along  the  unfenced  roads. 

The  plain  on  which  the  battle  was  fought  is 
wonderfully  level,  and  it  is  easy  to  trace,  without 
the  officious  details  of  an  incompetent  guide,  the 
most  important  points.  One  can  see  where  Wel- 
lington was  posted,  and  where  Bonaparte ;  where 
the  inefficient  Dutch  troops  were  posted,  and  the 
road  by  which  Blucher  advanced  ;  where  the  fierce 
struggles  about  the  Hougomont  chateau  and  the 
farm-house  raged,  and  the  road  by  which  Bona- 
parte finally  dashed  away. 

I  saw  two  old  women  toiling  —  perhaps  gleaning 
—  on  the  edge  of  some  plowed  land,  the  very  land, 
it  must  have  been,  over  which  the  Imperial  Guard 
so  valiantly,  so  impetuously  dashed,  in  their  furious 
attempt  to  break  the  British  line.  It  seemed  as  if 
I  could  yet  see,  for  it  was  just  around  where  I  stood, 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  247 

those  walls  of  glistening  bayonets,  before  which 
the  spurred  charges  of  the  French  wheeled  in  dis- 
may ;  for  horses  cannot  be  made  to  dash  against  a 
line  of  levelled  bayonets,  as  Bonaparte  found  at 
Waterloo,  and  the  Mamelukes,  at  the  Pyramids. 

A  man  who  persistently  called  himself  my  guide, 
said  his  father  was  in  the  battle,  and  that  he  had 
been  guide  to  General  Scott,  General  Grant,  Gen- 
eral Sheridan,  and  I  have  no  doubt  would  have 
added  General  Washington  and  Julius  Cassar,  had 
I  suggested  the  names,  kept  at  my  side.  He  was 
able  to  speak  a  little  English  and  was  so  ready  to 
assent  to  any  supposition,  that  I  was  induced,  I  am 
ashamed  to  say,  to  experiment  a  little  with  him  by 
referring  to  certain  marvelous  but  imaginary  inci- 
dents of  the  battle,  and  asking  if  he  could  show 
just  where  they  occurred.  "  Ou  yez,"  said  he,  and 
without  a  moment's  hesitancy  proceeded  to  do  so. 
But  I  gave  him  a  franc,  for  I  thought  he  had  earned 
it  in  climbing  up  the  two  hundred  and  twenty  steps 
with  me,  and  left  him  to  enlighten  other  visitors  on 
the  new  incidents  of  the  battle.  I  trust  I  may  be 
forgiven,  and  sincerely  hope  that  history  may  never 
become  debauched  by  the  introduction  of  the  as- 
tonishing movements  by  which  my  friend  seemed 
strongly  impressed. 

Near  the  "  Lion,"  is  a  small  public  house,  where 
visitors  can  get  entertainment  and  lodging,  and  many 
avail  themselves  of  the  opportunity  to  stop  a  day 
or  two.  Among  the  registered  names  appear  some 
of  the  great  in  all  walks  of  life  —  princes,  poets  and 


248  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

philosophers  ;  and  the  lady  keeper,  who  spoke  very 
good  English,  showed  me  letters  she  had  received 
from  many  famous  persons ;  one,  I  recollect,  from 
Tennyson,  the  poet.  She  had  quite  a  museum  of  relics 
of  the  battle  —  swords,  muskets,  pistols,  shells,  accou- 
trements, and  so  forth,  which  no  doubt  are  genuine. 

In  conversation  with  this  lady,  I  happened  to 
mention  that  on  my  way  from  Paris  I  had  fallen  in 
with  a  lady  who  said  she  was  born  in  Waterloo, 
and  that  her  family  had  owned  a  part  of  the  battle- 
field before  their  emigration  to  America.  Her  cu- 
riosity was  at  once  excited,  and  she  made  many 
inquiries.  I  told  her  I  did  not  know  the  lady's 
name,  but  mentioned  one  or  two  circumstances  of 
which  she  had  informed  me  ;  whereupon  she  said  she 
was  quite  sure  that  she  knew  who  the  family  was, 
that  she  well  remembered  the  emigration,  that  they 
were  very  respectable  people,  and  their  removal  was 
considered  a  great  loss  to  the  neighborhood. 

When  about  leaving  I  indulged  in  one  more  look 
over  the  memorable  field.  A  few  narrow  roads, 
unfenced  by  hedge  or  wall  of  any  kind,  wound 
here  and  there  ;  a  team  or  two,  and  in  the  distance 
a  peasant  with  his  sack  on  his  shoulder,  or  a  toiling 
woman,  like  little  dots  upon  the  landscape,  could 
be  discerned.  A  few  scattering  farm  houses  with 
white  walls  and  roofs  of  red  tile,  and,  far  away,  the 
rather  pretentious  church  of  Waterloo  village,  could 
be  seen  —  all  quiet  and  peaceful,  as  if  the  sulphur- 
ous cloud  of  war  had  never  brooded  there,  nor  the 
belching  cannon  echoed. 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  249 


CHAPTER   VIII. 

ANTWERP BIRMINGHAM. 

TAKING  the  cars  at  Brussels,  on  Saturday,  Oct. 
20,  in  about  an  hour  I  found  myself  in  the  quaint 
old  city  of  Antwerp  —  Antwerp,  which  would  very 
likely  have  ranked  as  the  third  city  of  the  world, 
had  it  not  been  for  the  imperious  and  unconquerable 
will  and  power  of  Philip  the  Second,  of  Spain. 
It  is  now  the  second  city  of  Belgium  ;  and,  during 
its  remarkable  history,  has  probably  passed  through 
more  fiery  trials  and  suffered  more  from  the  ravages 
of  unjust  war  than  any  other  city  now  upon  earth  ; 
has  been  sacked  by  the  most  rapacious  of  mankind  ; 
had  the  inmost  sanctity  of  its  homes  invaded  by 
brutal  soldiery ;  and  its  streets  repeatedly  washed 
in  blood.  As  the  traveler  threads  his  way  along 
some  of  the  older  streets,  he  may  see  venerable 
buildings  that  have  witnessed  all  these  things.  But 
she  now  looks  fair  and  healthy  in  her  peaceful  rest. 

The  magnificent  Cathedral,  with  its  towers  and 
delicately  wrought  steeple,  has  a  reputation  for 
grandeur  and  beauty  of  architecture  the  world 
over.  It  is  an  object  that  never  fails  to  attract  the 
eye  and  the  admiration  of  the  traveler,  while  yet 
he  is  far  off.  I  had  an  opportunity  to  attend  service 
there  on  a  Sunday  morning.  The  congregation 
was  large,  and  the  services  were  conducted  with  all 
the  solemnity  and  pomp  of  Catholic  Cathedral 
worship.  The  music  especially  was  grand.  Many 


250  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

costly  paintings  adorn  the  walls ;  among  them 
Rubens'  "  Descent  from  the  Cross,"  his  greatest 
work.  In  Antwerp,  he  lived  and  died. 

There  are  two  or  three  other  churches,  rich  in 
interior  adornment  —  St.  Jacques,  especially,  which 
is  by  many  thought  to  exceed  the  Cathedral  in 
splendor.  I  will  not  attempt  to  describe  the  paint- 
ings, statuary,  and  gildings,  here  to  be  seen,  nor 
the  gorgeous  shrines,  on  several  of  which  tall  can- 
dles were  burning  at  the  time  of  my  visit.  Indeed, 
one  might  have  fancied  himself  in  some  grand 
ecclesiastical  museum. 

Antwerp,  though  old,  and  in  some  of  its  streets 
having  a  most  quaint  as  well  as  antique  appearance, 
yet  seems  supplied  with  most  of  the  modern  im- 
provements as  they  are  called ;  has  convenient 
lines  of  street  cars,  and  its  connections  with  other 
places  by  steam  are  very  good.  The  streets  are 
well  paved  and  well  lighted,  and  in  many  parts 
lined  with  fine  stores,  though  I  must  add  that  they 
are  not  so  clean  and  nice  as  those  of  Brussels. 

I  think  I  somewhere  spoke  of  the  London  police 
as  being  unarmed.  It  is  very  different  with  those 
of  France  and  Belgium.  In  the  latter  countries, 
they  are  seen  in  showy  uniforms,  and  carry  formid- 
able weapons,  some  perambulating  with  mischievous 
looking  muskets ;  some  have  swords  dangling  at 
their  sides  ;  and  some  are  mounted.  An  American 
can  hardly  avoid  viewing  such  displays  in  the  light 
of  wasted  dignity.  But  the  rulers  probably  know 
best  what  dangers  beset  their  jurisdictions,  and  are 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  251 

not  likely  to  be  much  distressed  by  outside  criticisms. 
Uniforms  of  one  kind  and  another  are  so  common 
hereabouts,  that  one  is  tempted  to  think  that  every 
man  has  some  strange  ambition  to  get  into  one  of 
some  sort.  Yet  I  am  told  the  pay  of  the  uniformed 
gentry  is  so  small  that  they  barely  live,  and  I  can 
well  believe  it  after  witnessing  some  of  the  subter- 
fuges to  which  they  are  driven.  An  appointment 
is  generally  considered  to  be  for  life,  and  probably 
the  permanency  is  the  chief  inducement  to  strive  for 
it.  I  observed  in  various  railroad  stations,  in  Ant- 
werp particularly,  what  seemed  a  great  convenience 
to  travelers  where  there  is  such  a  variety  of  lan- 
guages spoken  ;  namely,  conspicuous  signs  direct- 
ing to  the  passage  out,  to  the  ticket  office,  waiting 
rooms,  and  so  forth,  in  three  or  four  languages, 
the  English  being  in  red  letters.  For  instance  : 
one  sign  had  on  it,  "Marchandises —  Koopwaven 

—  Goods    Office   (in  red)  —  Gueter   Expedition." 
Another,     "  Baggages  —  Rcispakken  —  Luggage 
(in  red)   Gepaeck."     And  still   another,  "Hommes 

—  Heeven  —  Gentlemen  (in  red)  —  Herren" 
The  manner  in  which  Sunday  is  observed  here- 
about, and  I  suppose  in  most  European  cities  out  of 
Great  Britain,  is  almost  startling  to  a  New  Eng- 
lander.     In  Antwerp,  though  the  churches  are  well 
attended  in  the  forenoon,  most  of  the    stores    are 
open  for  traffic,  and  travel  goes  on  much    as    on 
other  days.     But  in  the  evening,  high  carnival  is 
held.     The  whole  population,  men,  women,  boys 
and  girls,  seem  to  be  abroad ;    some  parading  the 


252  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

streets,  others  in  the  beer  saloons,  and  various 
places  of  amusement. 

There  is  no  privacy  in  the  beer  drinking.  Par- 
ents with  their  little  children,  young  men  and  young 
women,  can  be  seen  in  scores  by  any  one  passing 
in  the  streets,  ranged  about  long  tables,  each,  old 
or  young,  male  or  female,  with  a  glass  of  beer, 
sipping,  chatting  and  laughing,  and  perhaps  at  in- 
tervals listening  to  the  jolly  strains  of  saloon  music. 
I  presume  the  beer  is  light,  and  never  thought  of 
by  the  drinkers  as  having  any  intoxicating  quality. 
Distilled  spirits,  I  think,  are  comparatively  little 
used.  Scores  of  the  men  smoke  during  the  inter- 
vals of  drinking,  or  drink  during  the  intervals  of 
smoking.  I  spoke  to  several  about  these  drinking 
customs,  but  they,  one  and  all,  seemed  to  wonder 
what  I  could  see  that  was  wrong  about  them. 

Every  one,  on  these  Sunday  nights,  seems  to 
abandon  himself  or  herself  to  some  sort  of  gross 
"  enjoyment"  without  any  care  as  to  who  may  wit- 
ness this  abandonment. 

But  in  some  places  there  were  scenes  which 
seemed  worse  than  the  drinking — places  where 
dancing,  card-playing,  and  similar  entertainments 
were  in  progress.  There  is,  of  course,  a  class 
who  indulge  in  none  of  these  misdoings,  but  spend 
the  hours  of  Sunday  in  a  quiet  and  sober  manner ; 
yet  I  am  afraid  it  is  a  small  class,  and  one  which 
has  but  little  influence  on  the  general  habits  of  the 
people  ;  one  that  keeps  aloof  rather  through  affected 
dignity  than  principle. 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  253 

I  am  constrained  to  say  that  it  is  doubtful  whether 
in  the  whole  civilized  world  there  is  a  city  that  to  a 
New  Englander  would  seem  more  immoral  than 
Antwerp.  Yet  it  has  splendid  churches,  which  on 
Sunday  forenoons,  at  least,  appear  to  be  well  filled 
with  devout  worshippers ;  and  in  the  streets  may 
here  and  there  be  seen  a  saintly  image  near  which 
a  light  is  kept  burning  by  day  and  by  night,  and 
before  which  a  passer-by  may  sometimes  be  seen 
to  bend  the  knee  or  formulate  the  cross.  Such 
things  strike  us  as  marvellous  inconsistencies,  while 
to  them  they  have  no  such  appearance.  Habit  and 
education  furnish  the  reason  why. 

Leaving  Antwerp  for  Harwich,  in  England, 
early  in  the  afternoon  of  a  pleasant  day,  I  had  a 
fine  sail  down  the  Scheldt,  reaching  Flushing,  on 
the  Holland  side,  just  after  dark.  The  gleaming 
of  the  different  lighthouses,  one  or  two  having 
electric  lights,  and  the  phosphorescent  glow  of  the 
water,  with  the  apparitions  of  numerous  vessels, 
some  at  anchor  and  some  on  the  move,  afforded  an 
interesting  spectacle. 

A  few  days  after  leaving  Antwerp  —  or  Anvers, 
as  the  people  there  spell  it  —  I  found  myself  in 
Birmingham,  famous,  the  world  over,  for  its  works 
in  metal  of  all  kinds.  Here  are  a  multitude  of 
jewelers  and  goldsmiths,  some  of  whom  turn  out 
the  finest  jewelry,  and  some,  no  doubt,  that  of  the 
Attleboro  quality.  I  saw  one  little  piece  marked 
£100  ($500).  There  are  also  numerous  workers 
in  brass  and  iron,  and  button  makers. 


254  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

The  city  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  kingdom, 
and  is  spreading  out  with  a  rapidity  that  might 
almost  surprise  even  an  American.  New  streets 
and  new  buildings  are  appearing  on  every  hand. 
A  railroad  station,  now  1883,  in  process  of  comple- 
tion, it  is  claimed  will  be  the  largest  in  the  world. 
And  the  new  market  place  is  a  grand  affair. 

If  any  one  is  desirous  of  seeing  a  prodigious 
collection  of  tall  chimneys,  from  which  are  perpetu- 
ally issuing  volumes  of  black  smoke,  and  at  night, 
especially,  bright  flames,  he  may  have  his  curiosity 
satisfied  by  passing  through  the  suburbs  of  Bir- 
mingham and  so  on  to  Wolverhampton. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

LIVERPOOL    TO    ALGIERS. 

ON  SUNDAY  evening,  November  n,  I  sailed  from 
Wellington  Dock,  Liverpool,  in  the  steamship 
Arcadia,  for  a  trip  to  the  Mediterranean. 

In  about  three  days  we  were  in  warm,  clear 
weather,  which  was  most  welcome  after  enduring 
for  some  weeks  the  chilly,  damp,  and  disagreeable 
English  atmosphere.  While  crossing  the  Bay  of 
Biscay,  we  experienced  some  rather  heavy  swells, 
but  another  day  brought  us  into  more  gently  dis- 
posed waters.  This  Bay  is  usually  regarded  as 
one  of  the  most  boisterous  places  the  mariner  has 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  255 

to  navigate  in  this  or  any  other  quarter  of  the  world, 
owing,  I  suppose,  to  its  being  so  open  to  the  West- 
ern Ocean. 

By  a  pleasing  coincidence,  another  passenger  was 
an  English  gentleman,  who  came  over  from  New 
York  in  the  same  ship  writh  myself,  and  with  whom 
I  had  formed  a  very  agreeable  acquaintance.  We 
had  also,  as  a  fellow  passenger,  a  true  son  of  the 
Orient,  in  the  full  costume  of  the  East,  diligent  in 
reciting  his  prayers,  and  strange  in  the  choice  of 
food  at  our  well-furnished  table.  But  I  soon  came 
to  like  him  much,  he  was  so  good-natured  and 
obliging,  and,  withal  so  highly  appreciative  of 
well-timed  humor.  We  had  many  a  pleasant  deck- 
promenade  together,  though  the  difficulties  of  lan- 
guage rendered  intercourse  at  times  embarrassing, 
for  I  could  not  deliver  myself  in  Arabic  or  Hebrew, 
nor  he  in  English ;  yet  the  universal  language  of 
gesture,  together  with  a  few  undefinable  words, 
enabled  us  to  get  along  after  a  fashion.  He  said 
he  lived  at  Tunis,  where  he  had  one  wife,  four 
handsome  daughters  and  two  sons  ;  but  that  he  was 
on  his  way  to  Jerusalem  to  look  up  a  habitation, 
having  determined  to  make  his  future  home  in  the 
Christians'  holy  city. 

The  evening  of  the  i5th  was  clear  and  beautiful, 
and  the  air  so  agreeable  as  to  keep  us  long  on  deck. 
About  9  o'clock  we  passed  the  Burlings,  enormous 
rocks  towering  abruptly  from  the  sea,  near  the 
Portuguese  coast,  sharply  cut  in  the  moonlight,  and 
much  resembling  gigantic  ruins,  as  no  doubt  they 


256  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

are,  though  not  of  structures  reared  by  men's 
hands.  A  revolving  light  sheds  abroad  its  warning 
rays  to  a  great  distance. 

The  next  day  we  were  off  Cape  St.  Vincent,  a  south- 
erly point  of  Europe,  which,  with  its  long  barricade 
of  perpendicular  rock,  looks  something  like  an  im- 
mensely extended  Nahant.  We  passed  near  enough 
to  see  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  monastery  that 
crowned  its  level  height. 

Saturday,  November  17.  The  captain,  accord- 
ing to  promise,  kindly  came  into  my  state-room 
about  four  o'clock  in  the  morning,  lighted  my  lamp, 
and  said  we  were  just  entering  the  straits  of  Gibral- 
tar, and  if  I  wished  to  have  a  view  of  the  "  Pillars 
of  Hercules  "  by  moonlight,  I  should  then  come  on 
deck.  As  soon  as  dressed  I  went  up  on  to  the 
bridge,  the  steward  handed  me  a  bowl  of  hot  cof- 
fee, and  then  I  opened  my  eyes  to  a  scene  that  it 
was  worth  crossing  the  Atlantic  to  contemplate. 
Not  a  cloud  was  visible  in  the  whole  heavens,  and 
the  moonbeams  burnished  the  ripples  from  shore  to 
shore.  We  had  just  entered  the  Straits,  and  the 
stupendous  rocks  on  either  side  seemed  so  near  that 
a  stone  could  be  thrown  on  them,  though  in  reality 
they  are  some  seven  miles  apart.  The  light-houses 
on  either  hand  shed  their  benignant  rays,  and  a  few 
other  lights  were  visible  along  the  shores.  A  vessel 
or  two  bounded  along  like  specters  in  the  distance, 
for  the  breeze  was  fresh,  and  altogether  it  was  a 
scene  to  be  long  remembered.  And  then  the  mind 
would  naturally  revert  to  the  terrific  scenes  which 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  257 

have  from  time  to  time,  during  the  world's  history, 
been  here  enacted  ;  to  the  fierce  bombardments  with 
rockets,  shells  and  red-hot  balls  flying  like  fierce 
messengers  from  the  nether  world  and  descending 
upon  the  devoted  battlements,  or  hissing  off  to 
quench  their  fury  in  the  waters  beyond.  But  on 
that  peaceful  moonlight  morning,  no  more  danger- 
ous messengers  than  a  shooting  star  or  two  were 
seen  as  they  noiselessly  coursed  along  far  above 
the  dark  ramparts. 

The  loss  of  Gibraltar  has  long  remained  a  fester- 
ing element  in  the  political  heart  of  Spain.  And 
as  I  leaned  upon  the  ship's  rail  I  could  not  avoid 
the  strange  thought  that  at  some  time  in  the  future, 
when  war  again  spreads  her  alarms,  some  spectral 
balloon  may  ascend,  suddenly  hover  over  the  sup- 
posed impregnable  heights,  and  drop  down  such  a 
charge  of  dynamite  as  will  rend  the  rocks  to  their 
foundations.  Then  casting  a  look  upward  from 
the  rocks  and  the  sea  to  the  clear  sky,  there  glowed 
Orion  and  the  Pleiades,  so  familiar  as  objects  seen 
at  home  ;  for  wherever  a  wanderer  may  be,  in  the 
cloudless  heavens  he  can  always  observe'some  glow- 
ing stellar  eye  that  likewise  beams  upon  his  home. 

We  arrived  at  Algiers  on  the  morning  of  Novem- 
ber 19,  after  a  day  and  night  of  lively  rolling  and 
pitching  off  the  African  coast.  The  town  has  a 
very  picturesque  appearance  from  the  bay,  built  as 
it  is  upon  a  declivity  of  no  gentle  slope,  and  having 
a  background  of  high  hills.  The  buildings  are  of 
light  stone,  much  like  that  of  which  Paris  is  built* 


258  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

and  give  everything  a  bright,  cheerful  aspect.  The 
Cathedral,  which  was  once  a  Moorish  mosque,  is 
one  of  the  first  buildings  that  attracts  the  eye,  and 
another  rather  conspicuous  edifice  is  the  Mosque 
Djama  Kebir,  an  erection  of  the  tenth  century.  One 
of  the  first  sounds  that  greeted  our  ears  was  the 
music  of  chiming  bells  calling  to  early  service. 
As  a  general  thing,  where  Christians  and  Mahom- 
metans  live  in  such  close  proximity  as  they  do  here- 
about, neighborly  amenities  exist.  They  do  not 
quarrel  any  more  than  do  Christian  sects  with  one 
another  —  perhaps  because  neither  party  cares  much 
about  their  religion. 

The  Bay  of  Algiers  is  very  beautiful,  and  the 
harbor  capacious  and  easy  of  access.  Large  ships 
ride  in  safety  at  the  very  foot  of  the  town,  and  as 
there  are  no  tides  in  the  Mediterranean  they  can 
go  out  and  in  at  pleasure.  Currents  and  winds  may 
indeed  produce  swells  and  croppings,  but  the  sub- 
stantial breakwater  is  sufficient  protection  against 
serious  consequences. 

With  the  English  gentleman  before  named,  and 
a  couple  of  bright  young  lady  passengers,  I  took  a 
long  stroll,  and  much  enjoyed  perambulating  some 
of  the  older  streets  which  are  more  generally  occu- 
pied by  what  may  be  called  the  native  population 
in  distinction  from  the  French  and  other  foreigners, 
though  in  fact  the  population  in  all  parts  is  mixed. 
These  old  Moorish  streets,  which  were  the  haunts 
of  the  piratical  wretches  of  a  few  generations  ago, 
are  paved  —  more  properly,  perhaps,  floored  —  from 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  259 

side  to  side  with  stone,  and  fairly  clean,  though  nar- 
row and  crowded.  I  had  the  curiosity  to  step  into 
the  middle  of  one  or  two,  extending  my  arms  on 
either  side,  and  found  that  the  width  was  not  always 
sufficient  for  a  full  stretch,  and  the  great  height  of 
the  buildings  adds  to  the  apparent  narrowness.  The 
buildings  are  very  tall  and  are  joined  together,  the 
lower  stories  being  occupied  by  stores  and  workshops, 
which  are  in  great  variety  but  very  small  compared 
with  ours,  and  so  open  in  front  that  most  of  the 
business,  mechanical  and  trading,  seems  to  be  car- 
ried on  in  the  streets.  I  stopped  several  times  to 
see  the  operations,  and  asking  a  man  who  was 
running  a  sewing  machine  if  it  were  American  — 
they  all  understand  the  words  "America,  England, 
France"  —  he  replied  by  a  gesture  that  it  was  and 
politely  stopped  his  work  to  let  me  examine  it,  and 
I  found  the  American  maker's  name  on  the  plate. 

In  another  street  I  saw  some  shoemakers  at  work 
in  a  little  room  so  much  resembling  an  old-fashioned 
Lynn  shop  that  it  seemed  quite  like  a  bit  of  home, 
and  I  paused,  asking  if  any  one  there  could  speak 
English.  A  man  pointed  to  a  youth  who  was  sew- 
ing a  coarse  kind  of  shoe,  held  upon  his  knee  by 
the  old-fashioned  stirrup,  and  I  observed  that  the 
"  shop's  crew  "  began  to  prick  up  their  ears,  as  if 
some  fun  was  in  store.  A  few  unconnected  Eng- 
lish words  were  elicited  by  my  questions,  and  I 
presently  found  that  they  were  attempting  to  quiz 
me ;  so  I  encouraged  them  in  their  humor  for  a  lit- 
tle while,  they  seemed  to  enjoy  it  so,  and  then  in  a 


2OO  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

good-natured  way  made  them  understand  that  I 
fully  comprehended  their  game.  Whereupon  they 
laughed  till  their  old  turbans  shook  again  and  I 
passed  on. 

There  are  many  stores  in  which  bread  and  cake 
of  various  kinds  can  be  purchased.  The  bread, 
which  is  mostly  in  the  French  style,  is  light,  white, 
and  always  thoroughly  baked,  and  the  cake  looks 
rich,  and  is  in  great  variety.  Young  folks  with  pans 
of  dough  ready  for  the  oven  were  here  and  there 
hurrying  along. 

But  that  with  which  a  stranger  is  most  interested 
is  the  great  variety  of  persons  with  whom  he  jostles 
along  —  variety  as  regards  complexion,  features, 
language  and  costumes. 

Multitudes  of  children  were  pursuing  their  sports 
in  the  streets  and  little  squares,  and  though  some 
were  dressed  in  full  European,  and  others  in  full 
Oriental  style,  on  the  playground  all  distinctions  were 
ignored,  and  their  little  disputes  were  as  animated 
and  their  shouts  of  victory  as  triumphant  as  if  all 
spoke  in  the  same  tongue.  Marbles  seemed  to  be 
a  favorite  game,  and  some  of  the  little  brown  faces 
were  radiant  with  delight  and  the-black  eyes  sparkled 
as  the  winnings  were  seized.  Many  of  the  little 
girls  too  were  quick  in  their  movements  and  full 
of  merriment.  •  I  spoke  to  several  and'  they  all 
appeared  good-natured  and  good-mannered. 

The  new,  or  French  part  of  the  town,  is  over- 
looked by  the  old  Moorish  part,  and  has  fine  ware- 
houses and  other  buildings,  many  in  the  Parisian 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  26l 

style.  Indeed  this  section  seems  like  a  little  bit  of 
Paris  itself,  with  colonnades,  covered  passages, 
glittering  stores,  a  beautiful  promenade  overlooking 
the  bay,  and  public  squares  with  groups  of  noble 
palms  and  other  trees  and  ornamental  shrubbery. 

In  this  quarter,  likewise,  the  most  interesting 
sights  are  the  varieties  of  our  own  race,  Oriental 
and  Occidental,  fair  faces,  olive,  brown,  red  and 
black  intervening.  And  such  a  variety  of  costume  ; 
everything  from  full  Parisian  style  down  to  a  wrap 
of  old  coffee  bagging,  with  perhaps  the  remains 
of  a  date  frail  for  a  head-covering. 

The  fashionable  French  lady  in  her  dainty  Parisian 
robes  meets  her  equally  fashionable  sister  of  the 
Orient  in  her  dainty  white  trousers  of  capacious 
dimensions,  with  glittering  anklets  and  richly-em- 
broidered girdle,  her  graceful  tunic  and  pearly 
slippers  —  but  always  veiled,  or  rather  bandaged 
from  vulgar  gaze,  in  every  facial  feature  below  the 
eyes.  No  grosser  insult,  I  am  told,  can  possibly 
be  offered  to  a  lady  of  this  higher  class  than  to  ask 
her  to  remove  her  veil,  such  a  request  always  being 
taken  as  a  solicitation  of  the  most  odious  kind. 
But  there  are  some  of  the  inferior  classes  abroad 
unveiled,  semi-European  in  dress,  manners  and 
occupation. 

In  front  of  the  cafes,  in  the  open  air,  may  be 
seen  little  tables  and  chairs  for  the  convenience  of 
those  who  would  pause  for  rest  and  a  cup  of  coffee. 
The  coffee  is  strong,  absolutely  black,  about  as 
thick  as  cream,  and  generally  drank  without  sugar 


262  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

or  milk,  often  with  a  little  brandy.  Beside  each 
cup  a  small  cruet  of  brandy  is  usually  seen.  I  did 
not  taste  the  mixture,  but  judged  from  the  relish 
with  which  it  went  down  that  it  was  thought  to  reach 
about  the  right  spot  in  the  stomachs  of  those  who 
did  partake.  The  ship's  resident  agent  invited  me 
to  try  a  cup  of  the  coffee,  which  I  did  after  insist- 
ing upon  having  sugar  and  milk.  Two  or  three 
little  pieces  of  loaf  sugar  were  brought  on  a  plate, 
and  the  attendant  continued  to  pour  in  milk  till  I 
begged  him  to  stop ;  but  after  all  it  was  too  thick 
for  my  taste,  though  of  delicious  flavor. 

A  new  and  beautiful  opera  house  and  theatre 
nearly  completed,  and  to  be  opened  —  dedicated, 
I  suppose  is  the  word  —  in  about  a  fortnight,  occu- 
pied a  central  position.  The  agent  politely  took  us 
all  over  it.  It  is  really  a  fine  affair ;  rich  in  orna- 
mentation, tasteful  and  harmonious,  as  of  course  it 
would  be,  the  work  being  done  by  French  work- 
men under  the  supervision  of  a  Parisian  architect. 
The  cost  we  were  told  would  be  £50,000  ($250,000) 
—  just  about  what  St.  Stephen's  in  Lynn  cost;  but 
here  things  are  much  cheaper  than  with  us ;  in 
other  words,  money  goes  farther.  A  smart,  skilled, 
workman  gets  about  $1.25  per  day  for  ten  full 
hours.  The  market  seemed  well  stocked  with  every- 
thing necessary  for  man's  sustenance.  Vegeta- 
bles were  in  great  variety  —  green  peas,  new 
potatoes,  radishes,  melons,  and  various  garden  arti- 
cles of  which  I  did  not  even  know  the  names.  The 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  263 

most  luscious  grapes,  and  oranges  just  from  the 
trees,  pomegranates,  and  other  fruits  raised  in  the 
vicinity,  were  plenty  and  cheap.  The  date  and  fan 
palm,  the  bread-fruit  tree,  plantain,  orange,  lemon 
and  citron,  may  all  be  seen  growing  in  or  about 
Algiers.  Winter  is  not  known  here.  The  cost  of 
living  was  formerly  little,  but  since  there  has  been 
such  an  influx  of  strangers,  prices  have  gone  up 
rapidly  ;  still  however  the  cost  is  not  so  great  as 
in  New  York  or  Boston.  Algiers  has  now  gained 
the  enviable  reputation  of  being  second  to  no  place 
on  earth  as  a  temporary  home  for  invalids. 

Just  in  front  of  the  town  still  remains  the  fortifi- 
cation which  was  reared  in  the  old  piratical  days 
as  a  defence  against  the  merited  chastisement  of 
the  angered  nations  whose  expeditions  now  and  then 
appeared  around  the  headlands.  The  brave  and 
effectual  action  our  own  nation  took  in  the  long 
reckoning  with  the  wretches  is  too  well  known  to 
require  particular  notice.  The  fort,  now  decaying, 
is  occupied  for  the  peaceful  purpose  of  storing  coal 
for  the  supply  of  calling  steamers,  and  will  probably 
disappear  before  many  years  its  usefulness  having 
come  to  an  end,  and  it  being  rather  an  encumbrance 
to  the  harbor.  Many  steamers  and  many  sailing 
ships  bound  for  the  Mediterranean  ports,  and  for 
the  East  Indies,  stop  here. 

The  air  was  delicious,  and  everything  around 
looked  so  bright  and  pleasant  that  I  could  not  help 
saying  to  myself  more  than  once,  "  Who  would  en- 
dure the  rigors  of  a  New  England  winter  if  he  knew 


264  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

and  could  reach  so  charming  a  place  as  this,  where 
'  chill  November's  surly  blast '  never  comes  ?  "  But 
then  there  is  something  within  that  whispers,  "  Home, 
Sweet  Home." 

Algiers  is  too  beautiful  a  place  ever  to  have  been 
the  abode  of  desperadoes,  robbers,  and  pirates ;  a 
haunt  of  the  most  villainous  and  shameless  of  our 
race.  The  very  name  Algerine  was  once  the  world 
over  expressive  of  wrong,  cruelty  and  bloodshed. 
Indeed  its  very  arrogance  may  be  said  to  have  cul- 
minated in  its  redemption,  as  the  French  occupa- 
tion was  probably  the  final  result  of  the  insolence 
of  the  Dey  who  took  occasion  to  box  the  ears  of  a 
French  Consul. 

But  the  land  once  so  barbarous  is  now  regenerated 
and  advancing  in  refinement  in  the  industrial  arts, 
and  in  all  that  makes  life  desirable.  The  French  occu- 
pation of  Algeria  has  proved  a  great  blessing  to 
mankind.  And  so  will,  for  it  seems  sure  to  come, 
the  occupation  of  Egypt  by  the  English.  And 
does  it  not  seem  as  if  our  own  nation  ought  to  do 
her  part  for  the  general  welfare  of  the  world — a 
part  that  will  begin,  in  some  center  of  abomination 
yet  remaining,  a  redeeming  work?  Ought  she  now 
in  her  strength  to  stand  selfishly  aloof,  proud  of  her 
own  position,  and  caring  for  nothing  beyond  her 
own  interest?  When  a  pretended  nation  is  worse 
than  a  waste  place,  can  it  be  wrong  for  those  who 
are  able  to  make  it  fruitful  and  good  to  occupy 
and  redeem  it?  Are  we  not  apt  to  talk  too  tenderly 
of  what  are  loosely  called  tribal,  national,  or  natural, 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  265 

rights?  Pray,  what  rights  have  savages,  robbers, 
and  murderers,  but  the  right  to  be  restrained,  re- 
formed, and  regenerated? 


CHAPTER   X. 


THE  little  island  of  Malta  in  the  Mediterranean 
is  one  of  the  most  interesting  places  in  the  whole 
world :  interesting  as  to  its  natural  position,  its 
physical  features,  and  its  history.  It  is  small  in 
territory,  the  area  being  but  about  115  square  miles, 
insomuch  that  a  common  pedestrian  can  walk  from 
one  end  to  the  other  in  half  a  day ;  and  its  width 
is  a  third  less  than  its  length.  It  lies  somewhat 
nearer  the  European  than  the  African  coast  and 
has  easy  communication  with  either  shore,  indeed 
with  the  whole  world. 

The  city  of  Valetta  is  the  chief  settlement,  and 
a  fine  city  it  is,  though  not  large,  the  population 
numbering  between  60,000  and  70,000.  It  is  pre- 
eminently a  city  of  stone  ;  indeed  it  has  been  called 
"an  inhabited  quarry;"  its  whole  foundation  is 
stone ;  its  streets  are  stone  and  so  are  the  grand 
buildings  that  flank  them,  in  many  cases  the  inside 
walls,  floors,  and  stair-ways  as  well  as  the  exteriors 
being  of  stone  —  to  say  nothing  of  the  stupendous 
fortifications  that  rear  their  grim  protecting  walls 


266  LEGACY    OF    AN     OCTOGENARIAN. 

on  every  side.  It  is  one  of  the  most  wonderful 
cities  in  the  world ;  there  is  nothing  like  it.  And 
it  is  not  only  a  city  of  stone  but  one  of  ups  and 
downs.  The  ascent  to  the  plateau  along  which  the 
principal  street  —  Strada  Reale  —  runs,  is  so  steep 
that  the  streets  leading  up  from  the  landing  places 
have  to  be  ascended  by  steps,  which  however  are 
made  as  convenient  as  possible  for  foot  passengers 
—  wheel  carriages  not  being  used  in  them  at  all  — 
the  rise  not  usually  exceeding  three  or  four  inches. 

It  is  currently  believed  that  the  island  was  for- 
merly a  bare  rock  and  nothing  but  that,  and  that 
the  soil  now  there  was  transported  thither  by  water. 
But  to  such  a  conclusion  I  cannot  subscribe,  though 
something  in  that  way  has  undoubtedly  been  done. 
I  would  rather  believe  that  for  ages  on  ages  accu- 
mulation of  soil  has  progressed,  largely  by  deposits 
wafted  thither  by  the  sometimes  furious  winds  from 
the  not  very  distant  islands  and  continents.  Perhaps 
Mount  Etna,  which  is  occasionally  visible  from 
Malta,  may  have  made  liberal  contributions.  Think 
too  of  the  terrible  storm  of  earthly  matter  over  in 
Italy  that  buried  Herculaneum  and  Pompeii.  To 
Sicily,  if  not  also  to  Italy,  Malta  is  no  doubt  indebted 
for  much  of  the  rich  soil  that  now  clothes  her  hills 
and  vales. 

The  buildings  are  lofty,  flat-roofed,  and  join  each 
other,  having  balconies  which  are  picturesque  in 
their  architectural  irregularities  and  convenient  for 
evening  airings.  The  roofs  also  form  agreeable 
summer-evening  promenades ;  for  though  the  day 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  267 

may  be  sultry,  the  cool  airs  from  the  Mediterranean 
after  the  sun  has  set  are  bracing  and  delicious. 
Well  might  Lord  Beaconsfield  say,  "  Malta  is 
certainly  a  most  delightful  station.  Its  city,  Valetta, 
equals  in  its  noble  architecture,  if  it  even  does  not 
excel,  any  capital  in  Europe.  And  although  it 
must  be  confessed  that  the  surrounding  region  is 
little  better  than  a  rock,  nevertheless  the  vicinity 
of  Barbary,  of  Italy,  and  of  Sicily,  presents  ex- 
haustless  resources  to  the  lovers  of  the  highest  order 
of  natural  beauty.  If  that  fair  Valetta,  with  its 
streets  of  palaces,  its  picturesque  forts,  and  mag- 
nificent church,  only  crowned  some  green  and  azure 
island  of  the  Ionian  Sea  —  Corfu  for  instance  —  I 
really  think  that  the  ideal  of  landscape  would  be 
realized." 

Malta  was  formerly  known  as  Melita,  and  is  so 
designated  in  the  New  Testament,  (Acis  xxviii). 
Valetta  was  so  named  from  the  Grand  Master  of 
the  Knights,  John  de  la  Valette,  whose  rule  com- 
menced in  1557. 

By  a  stroll  along  the  towering  fortifications  one 
can  obtain  very  striking  views  of  the  beautiful  bays 
and  all  the  adjacent  country.  In  the  harbor  he 
sees  countless  numbers  of  tidy  little  boats  gliding 
hither  and  thither,  upon  which  he  can  have  a  pleas- 
ant sail  for  the  small  expense  of  three  or  four  pen- 
nies. He  will  also  notice  numerous  great  ocean 
steamers,  from  England,  France,  Italy,  and  other 
European  and  Mediterranean  ports,  some  bearing 
the  Moslem  flag —  but  none  the  American  —  lying 


268  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

at  ease  close  by  the  town ;  and  many  sailing  ships, 
for  Malta  is  the  great  stopping-place  for  ships  bound 
to  almost  every  quarter  of  the  globe.  He  will 
likewise  see,  as  he  strolls  along  the  battlements, 
huge  cannon,  and  mortars,  and  enormous  piles  of 
balls,  and  other  death-dealing  projectiles,  for  Eng- 
land always  keeps  prepared  to  defend  this  fair  jewel 
of  her  colonial  diadem. 

The  native  Maltese  have  great  love  for  their  rocky 
home  and  delight  to  call  it  the  "  Flower  of  the 
World."  The  present  population  is  about  155,000, 
which  enables  them  to  boast  of  having  a  larger 
number  to  the  square  mile  than  any  other  section  of 
Christendom.  In  addition  to  this  resident  popula- 
tion, about  eight  thousand  soldiers  are  stationed 
here ;  and  it  is  likewise  the  headquarters  of  the 
British  Mediterranean  naval  forces.  There  may 
sometimes  be  seen  lying  in  the  harbor  four  or  five 
of  the  enormous  iron-clad  British  war  steamers. 

The  great  body  of  the  population  belong  to  the 
laboring  classes,  who  earn  but  little  and  consequently 
live  frugally.  Shoemakers  earn  from  twenty-five 
to  thirty  cents  per  day,  (our  money)  ;  cigar-makers, 
ten  to  fifteen  cents  per  day  ;  compositors  (printers), 
twenty-two  to  thirty-two  cents  per  day.  Rents  and 
provisions  are  cheap,  but  not  so  cheap  that  working 
people  are  always  above  absolute  want,  for  employ- 
ment is  not  always  to  be  had.  The  weather  is  such 
that  some  of  the  very  poor  take  their  nightly  rest 
with  only  the  earth,  or  rather  the  stone,  for  a  bed, 
and  the  sky  for  a  covering. 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  269 

From  what  I  saw  and  the  inquiries  I  made,  I  have 
no  doubt  that  there  are  multitudes  of  healthy,  active, 
and  contented  men  who  live  and  thrive  on  sixpence 
a  day.  A  half-penny  worth  of  bread  and  a  half- 
penny worth  of  fruit  furnish  a  full  meal,  and  lodg- 
ing can  hardly  be  said  to  cost  anything.  The  meal 
can  be  varied  by  a  change  of  fruit  or  kind  of  bread, 
or  one  can  dodge  into  one  of  the  little  cheap  cook- 
ing shops  and  get  a  half-penny  worth  of  cooked 
fish,  or  fried  meat  mixture,  or  soup.  Many  go 
barefoot,  and  wearing  apparel  for  a  year  costs  but 
a  mere  trifle.  This  of  course  relates  to  the  poorer 
classes,  many  of  whom  do  not  earn  above  sixpence 
per  day.  As  you  ascend  in  the  scale  and  bring  in 
imported  luxuries  expenses  increase.  But  let  me 
show  something  of  prices  by  my  own  case.  On 
arriving  here,  with  a  gentleman  who  came  in  the 
ship  —  a  retired  English  surgeon  —  I  took  lodgings 
at  a  good  hotel  conducted  in  Parisian  style.  We 
had  a  large  front  parlor  on  the  second  floor  hand- 
somely furnished,  with  sofas,  gas,  and  other  con- 
veniences, two  well-furnished  sleeping  rooms,  and 
three  regular  meals,  with  good  attendance,  for  six 
shillings  ($1.50)  each  per  day. 

I  need  not  say  that  there  is  not  the  enterprise  and 
business  activity  hereabout  that  one  sees  in  an 
American  or  English  town.  And  for  an  ambitious 
young  man  there  seems  not  to  be  a  very  promising 
field. 

A  spruce  young  fellow,  of  perhaps  twenty-five, 
who  kept  in  a  store  on  one  of  the  principal  streets, 


270  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

spoke  to  me  once  or  twice,  having  learned  that  I 
was  from  America.  He  seemed  to  have  an  ex- 
aggerated idea  of  the  promising  state  of  things  in 
our  country  for  a  young  man,  and  almost  sighed  to 
get  there,  saying  that  there  was  no  prospect  of  get- 
ting more  than  a  living  where  he  was,  that  his  life 
was  monotonous,  and  that  he  was  anxious  to  try 
his  luck  elsewhere.  America  was  his  ideal.  I 
told  him  he  could  easily  get  to  America,  but  must 
not  think  that  on  his  arrival  he  could  pick  up  money 
in  the  streets,  as  some  I  had  seen  seemed  to  imagine, 
but  if  he  went  industriously  to  work,  at  almost 
anything,  he  would  have  a  fair  prospect  of  being 
ultimately  well  rewarded.  "Ah,  yes,"  he  replied 
despondingly,  "  as  you  say,  it  costs  but  little  to  get 
there ;  but  it  would  take  so  long  to  lay  by  from  my 
small  earning  that  little,  that  I  might  be  gray  be- 
fore I  had  enough."  The  most  encouraging  thing 
I  could  say  to  him  was  that  in  America  we  had  a 
maxim  declaring  that  "  Where  there  's  a  will  there  's 
a  way,"  and  that  despondency  would  not  help 
matters. 

There  are  some  rather  curious  police  regulations 
in  Malta.  I  noticed  conspicuously  posted  in  the 
entrance  hall  of  the  hotel  where  I  took  lodgings 
some  of  these,  among  them  the  following:  — 
"kEvery  keeper  of  an  hotel  or  lodging-house  shall 
admonish  every  foreigner  who  shall  have  taken 
lodgings  to  present  himself  at  the  police  office 
within  two  days  after  his  arrival ;  and  no  such 
keeper  of  an  hotel  or  lodging-house  shall  allow 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  271 

any  foreigner  to  remain  in  his  house  who  shall  not 
within  ten  days  after  his  arrival  be  provided  with  a 
regular  permit  of  residence  by  the  police."  My 
fellow-lodgers  were  disposed  to  joke  me  a  little 
about  being  turned  away ;  but  before  making  up 
my  mind  to  appear  at  the  police  office  they  relieved 
my  apprehensions  by  assuring  me  that  the  authori- 
ties liberally  interpreted  the  ordinance  as  placing 
Americans  on  the  same  footing  with  Englishmen. 
At  all  events,  I  applied  for  no  permit  and  received 
no  warning. 

Wheel  carriages  are  but  little  seen,  excepting  in 
two  or  three  of  the  principal  streets  on  the  summit 
level  of  the  city,  as  it  maybe  called —  as  the  Strada 
Reale,  for  instance  —  owing  of  course  to  their 
steepness  and  narrowness.  In. such  as  have  layers 
of  steps  no  such  vehicles  can  be  used.  And  I  dare 
say  many  an  unsentimental  rambler  on  returning 
from  his  weary  round  has  mentally  repeated  the 
couplet  attributed  to  Lord  Byron,  so  familiar  here  :  — 

"Adieu,  ye  cursed  streets  of  stairs, 
How  surely  he  who  mounts  you  swears." 

Some  customs,  originating  in  these  topographical 
peculiarities,  seem  curious  to  a  stranger.  On  the 
day  of  my  arrival,  for  instance,  while  I  was  leaning 
over  the  balcony  of  the  hotel,  a  man  came  up  the 
street  with  a  small  herd  of  goats.  He  stopped  at  the 
house  opposite,  sat  down  on  the  doorstep,  when  a 
pitcher  was  brought  to  him  into  which  he  drew 
from  one  of  his  docile  little  subjects  a  certain  quan- 
tity of  milk,  received  his  pay,  and  drove  on  to  the 


272  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

next  customer.  While  he  was  milking  the  one 
the  others  stood  patiently  by  without  any  inclina- 
tion to  stray.  I  afterwards  saw  that  this  was  a 
common  way  of  delivering  milk.  At  first  I  thought 
it  might  be  a  way  of  convincing  the  customer  that 
he  received  a  pure  article  —  as  with  us  coffee  is 
ground  in  the  presence  of  the  purchaser — but 
such  was  not  the  case  ;  the  reason  was  in  the  im- 
possibility of  threading  the  streets  with  wheeled 
vehicles,  and  the  hard  labor  of  hand  carriage . 
Goats  and  diminutive  donkeys  have  an  important 
part  to  perform  in  the  traffic  of  Malta. 

Some  masters  in  geological  lore  claim  that  the 
Maltese  islands  are  the  heights  of  submerged  lands 
that  ages  ago  formed  a  part  of  the  African  or 
European  continent,  or  perhaps  the  ridges  joining 
the  two.  The  highest  point  is  about  seven  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

The  early  history  of  the  place  is  lost  in  the  ob- 
scurities of  time.  Jupiter  and  the  other  heathen 
gods  appear  to  have  taken  a  bold  hand  in  arrang- 
ing affairs  after  the  mysterious  giants,  who  preceded 
the  classic  times,  had  disappeared  —  the  giants 
alluded  to  by  Homer. 

Coming  down  to  historic  times  there  seems  to  be 
sufficient  evidence  that  a  Phoenician  colony  was 
planted  in  Malta  more  than  three  thousand  years 
ago,  and  that  it  soon  became  a  settlement  of  impor- 
tance. Remains  of  their  works  are  still  to  be  seen. 
The  Egyptians  too,  without  doubt,  once  held  pos- 
session. A  little  more  than  seven  hundred  years 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  273 

before  the  Christian  era  the  Greeks  had  the  mastery  ; 
then  the  Carthagenians.  Then  came  the  Punic  wars, 
and  finally  all-conquering  Rome  gained  possession. 

In  the  earlier  years  of  the  Christian  era,  Malta 
was  subjected  to  all  the  calamities  of  war  and 
change  of  rulers.  The  Goths  and  Vandals  are 
supposed  to  have  held  sway  for  a  time,  and  after 
them  the  Arabs,  whose  occupation  has  enduring 
proof  in  the  present  Maltese  language  which,  how- 
ever, is  a  medley  of  various  tongues. 

Let  us  now  leave  these  mystic  times  and  greet 
the  illustrious  order  known  as  the  Knights  of  Malta, 
always  bearing  in  mind  that  it  was  an  order  of  two- 
fold character  —  religious  and  military.  But  then 
man  is  a  fighting  as  well  as  a  religious  animal,  and 
the  Christians  of  that  period,  in  common  with  their 
Mahometan  antagonists,  thought  it  imperative  to 
extend  their  religion  by  fire  and  sword  as  well  as 
by  gentler  means.  The  order  began  in  Jerusalem, 
in  1050,  as  the  benevolent  founders  of  a  small  hos- 
pital, and  so  increased  that  it  finally  became  one  of 
the  chief  defences  of  Christianity  against  Mahom- 
etanism.  Power  however  begets  arrogance,  and 
as  pride  leads  to  downfall,  the  Knights,  after  about 
two  hundred  years,  had  put  on  such  airs  that  they 
were  expelled  from  Jerusalem  and  retired  to  Cyprus 
whence  they  were  driven,  and  then  made  a  stand 
in  Rhodes.  Harassed  wherever  they  went  they  at 
last  found  rest  in  Malta  where  they  were  hospitably 
received,  but  under  the  promise  that  the  established 
laws  should  be  respected. 


274  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

It  was  in  1530  that  these  Knights  of  St.  John, 
who  have  since  been  known  as  the  Knights  of  Malta, 
arrived.  There  were  different  classes,  as  nobles, 
ecclesiastics,  men  at  arms,  and  servants.  Essen- 
tially they  claimed  to  be  a  religious  order,  with 
military  organization  and  high-toned  notions  of 
chivalry.  Poverty,  obedience,  and  chastity  were 
enjoined,  but  these  virtues  seem  not  to  have  long 
survived  in  a  healthful  state.  The  income  of  the 
order  was  derived  from  the  commanderies  and 
priories  in  different  countries,  fees  of  admission, 
presents,  rents,  indulgencies  obtained  through  papal 
bulls,  ransom  of  slaves,  and  a  few  other  sources. 
The  expenditures  were  for  diplomatic  transactions 
with  other  people,  personal  maintenance,  support 
of  nunneries  and  hospitals,  allowances  of  bread 
and  meat  to  dependents,  and  various  other  benev- 
olent objects. 

In  June,  1798,  the  Grand  Master  Hompesch  sur- 
rendered —  pusillanimously,  some  said,  though  he 
undoubtedly  believed  it  useless  to  contend  —  to  the 
French  forces.  And  thus  Bonaparte  became  mas- 
ter, the  terms  of  surrender  being  that  the  liberties 
and  religion  of  the  island  should  be  respected. 
Fifteen  thousand  French  troops  were  landed.  All 
Knights  under  sixty  years  of  age  were  expelled,  a 
general  havoc  was  made  with  the  order,  and  rich 
and  costly  works  of  art  carried  off.  Against  these 
indignities  and  wrongs  the  Maltese  arose  in  desper- 
ation. Lord  Nelson  was  appealed  to  and  came 
with  a  fleet.  But  the  Maltese  were  subjected  to 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  275 

almost  indescribable  suffering  during  a  two  years' 
siege,  and  it  is  reckoned  that  twenty  thousand  per- 
ished. The  suffering  and  suspense  was  heroically 
borne  till  the  Treaty  of  Paris,  in  1814,  declared 
that  "  The  island  of  Malta,  with  all  its  dependen- 
cies, shall  appertain  in  full  authority  and  sovereignty 
to  his  Britannic  Majesty."  And  now  to  look  at  the 
present  fortifications  that  frown  on  every  side,  and 
the  terribly  suggestive  armaments,  one  would  think 
there  could  be  no  danger  of  the  place  ever  again 
by  force  changing  hands.  The  ancient  Order  of 
St.  John  of  Jerusalem  —  or  the  Knights  of  Malta 
—  no  longer  exists  on  the  island,  though  it  has  not 
become  entirely  extinct  in  Rome  and  a  few  other 
places. 

Malta  has  had  her  full  share  of  distress  and  suf- 
fering in  almost  every  shape.  She  is  geographi- 
cally so  situated  that  the  storms  of  war  have  swept 
over  her  in  fearful  force.  Pestilence  and  famine 
too  have  visited  her.  But  just  now,  under  British 
rule,  she  seems  peaceful  and  happy.  Hurricanes 
and  earthquakes  have  spread  desolation  around,  but 
of  late  years  there  seems  to  have  been  a  lull  in  such 
elemental  disturbances.  And  with  bright  skies  and 
charming  airs  she  is,  it  is  hoped,  destined  to  recover 
her  lost  ground  and  advance  till  her  hills  of  rock 
become  the  scene  of  permanent  prosperity,  though 
to  a  stranger  it  does  not  readily  appear  how  such  a 
favorable  condition  can  accrue,  inasmuch  as  the 
island  does  not  produce  sufficient  for  the  mainte- 
nance of  even  the  present  population,  and  there  is 


276  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

little  hope  that  manufactures  will  to  any  considera- 
ble extent  be  established.  There  are  some  beautiful 
laces  made  by  hand,  and  some  fine  sculptures  and 
other  works  of  art  turned  out,  but  all  to  a  very 
limited  extent.  Commercial  facilities  and  prospects 
are  not  encouraging.  To  England  the  island  is 
valuable  as  a  military  and  naval  station,  and  by  the 
maintenance  of  the  forces  there  considerable  amounts 
are  disbursed,  and  a  degree  of  vigor  infused  into 
some  departments  of  trade.  So  let  us  hope  on. 

The  Grand  Masters,  who  ruled  in  Malta  from 
1530  till  1798,  were  twenty-seven  in  number. 

St.  John's  Church  is  a  magnificent  edifice,  not, 
however,  so  much  as  regards  the  exterior  as  interior, 
and  its  bells,  ten  in  number,  may  be  heard  at  almost 
any  hour.  In  one  of  the  towers  are  three  dial  faces 
marking  the  hour  of  the  day,  the  day  of  the  week, 
and  the  day  of  the  month.  It  is  an  old  church,  and 
in  the  days  of  knighthood  was  held  in  great  vener- 
ation. It  was  consecrated  in  1575.  At  the  rear  of 
the  altar  is  a  large  painting  by  Michael  Angelo, 
who  came  here  in  1608  to  exercise  his  skill  on 
these  walls. 

An  attempt  to  describe  the  splendors  of  this  tem- 
ple, which  is  declared  to  have  very  few  superiors 
in  the  world,  might  prove  tiresome.  The  Grand 
Masters  emulated  each  other  in  their  endeavors  to 
add  to  its  richness  and  beauty,  and  in  its  sacred 
precincts  their  remains  have  a  resting-place.  The 
French  plundered  it  of  some  of  its  most  valuable 
possessions,  but  enough  remain  to  indicate  its  pre- 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  277 

eminent  grandeur.  It  still  continues  the  custodian 
of  some  precious  relics,  as  resident  worshippers 
believe  —  such  as  one  of  the  stones  with  which  St. 
Stephen  was  slain,  one  of  the  feet  of  Lazarus,  a 
fragment  of  the  true  cross,  and  a  thorn  of  the  crown 
which  in  mockery  was  placed  upon  the  Saviour's 
head.  I  certainly  would  not  speak  irreverently, 
nor  have  I  any  desire  to  disturb  the  faith  of  any  by 
casting  suspicion  on  the  genuineness  of  sacred  relics 
like  these,  which  have  given  so  much  comfort  to 
the  devotees  who,  weary  and  heavy-laden,  have 
groped  their  way  along  the  Christian  ages,  yet  I 
must  suggest  in  relation  to  the  last-named,  that  if 
all  the  thorns  of  which  I  have  heard  as  having 
formed  a  part  of  that  derisive  diadem  are  genuine, 
it  must  have  been  a  crown  that  no  mortal  head 
could  have  borne. 

But  St.  John's  is  a  rich  depository  of  high  art. 
Its  statuary,  exquisite  carvings,  painting,  gildings, 
and  other  rare  adornments  seem  constantly  to  develop 
new  beauties  as  they  are  the  more  closely  studied. 
Yet  I  admit  such  a  sanctuary  should  be  visited  from 
higher  motives  than  curiosity.  Few  buildings  in 
the  world  have  more  touching  histories  than  this, 
in  which  continue  to  be  held  daily  services  of  the 
most  impressive  order,  though  the  attendance  is  not 
always  so  large  as  it  ought  to  be,  at  least  has  not 
been  when  I  have  attended. 

Religious  processions  as  imposing  as  those  of  old 
monkish  days  still  thread  the  streets  of  Malta.  The 
passers  pause  and  remove  their  hats,  and  devotees 


278  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

kneel  upon  the  cold  stones.  The  carnival  and 
other  old-time  observances  are  not  forgotten,  and 
many  of  the  strange  mediaeval  customs,  now 
so  fast  becoming  obsolete  in  most  Roman  Catho- 
lic countries,  seem  here  to  yet  tenaciously  hold 
sway. 

There  are  some  dark  passages  in  the  history  of 
Malta.  The  dreadful  massacre  of  1282,  known  as 
the  Sicilian  Vespers,  is  supposed  to  have  been  con- 
cocted here.  And  here  the  Inquisition  held  its 
withering  grasp  from  1575  to  1798.  Slavery,  too, 
was  an  institution  of  long  duration  under  the 
Knights,  who  derived  a  considerable  revenue  from 
their  ransom.  In  1749,  some  4000  Turkish  prison- 
ers were  held  as  slaves. 

Malta  is  a  very  healthy  place,  and  has  long  been 
the  winter  resort  of  invalids.  Some  diseases  have 
never  been  known  to  occur  here  —  hydrophobia,  for 
instance,  though  there  are  great  numbers  of  dogs. 
The  disease  known  as  glanders  is  said  never  to 
afflict  the  horses. 

There  are  hot  days  in  summer,  and  occasionally 
the  damp  and  depressing  Sirocco  from  the  African 
desert  is  felt,  at  which  time  the  doors  and  windows 
are  hastily  closed  and  every  means  adopted  to  guard 
against  its  enervating  effects.  But  its  unwelcome 
visits  are  something  like  those  of  angels  as  regards 
number  and  intervals  of  occurrence.  The  range 
of  the  thermometer  in  summer  is  from  about  seventy- 
eight  to  eighty-four  degrees ;  the  sunsets  are  gor- 
geous and  the  evenings  delightful.  In  winter  the 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  279 

thermometer  ranges  from  about  fifty  to  fifty-eight 
degrees.  Snow  and  frost  are  not  known. 

Amusements  .of  various  kinds,  including  the 
opera  and  the  drama,  are  common  in  Valeria,  and 
the  streets  always  afford  spectacles  of  much  interest 
to  the  stranger.  Strada  Stretta,  the  very  street,  by 
the  way,  in  which  I  took  lodgings  on  my  arrival, 
was  the  ground,  and  the  only  ground,  on  which  the 
Knights  were  permitted  to  settle  their  disagreements 
by  duel,  and  such  were  the  strange  demands  of 
chivalry,  that  even  here  the  hostile  .parties  were 
obliged  to  forego  the  sanguinary  indulgence  if 
another  Knight,  a  priest,  or  a  lady,  so  commanded. 
A  cross  upon  a  neighboring  wall  indicated  the  spot 
where  a  fatal  encounter  had  taken  place,  and  one 
or  two  such  crosses,  it  is  said,  are  still  visible,  though 
I  have  not  seen  them.  The  duels  were  of  course 
fought  with  swords  or  daggers.  The  street  is  nar- 
row, floored  with  stone  from  side  to  side,  and  in 
some  portions  ascended  and  descended  by  steps. 

In  Malta,  as  a  matter  of  course,  one  may  see 
interesting  antiquities.  There  are  Phoenician  tombs 
and  inscriptions,  Carthagenian,  Arabian,  Greek 
and  Roman  remains.  The  roof  of  a  building  used 
for  a  school  is  partially  supported  by  a  column 
alleged  to  have  been  brought  from  Solomon's  Tem- 
ple —  first  taken  to  Rhodes  by  the  Knights  and 
thence  brought  hither.  In  the  village  of  Melleha 
is  a  little  church  much  venerated  by  the  native 
Maltese.  It  is  in  part  excavated  from  the  rock,  and 
the  crypt  is  claimed  to  have  been  consecrated  by 


280  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

St.  Paul.  Pilgrimages  have  been  made  to  it,  and 
it  has  a  painting  of  the  Virgin  Mary  on  the  wall, 
said  to  have  been  executed  by  St.  Luke.  The 
church  of  "  St.  Paul  Shipwrecked  "  contains  several 
remarkable  relics,  among  them  a  portion  of  the 
pillar  on  which  the  apostle  suffered  martyrdom. 
The  shipwreck  is  annually  commemorated  on  the 
tenth  of  February.  But  as  to  the  genuineness  of 
these  relics,  and  multitudes  of  others  of  like  char- 
acter, it  hardly  need  be  added  there  are  many 
doubts. 

Ancient  as  Malta  is,  nothing  aboutit  looks  shabby. 
Some  of  the  old  walls  are  eaten  by  the  tooth  of 
time,  and  show  the  mildew  stains  of  ages  past,  but 
they  are  not  ruinous.  The  preservation  is  no  doubt 
attributable  to  the  nature  of  the  material  and  atmos- 
pheric favoritism.  The  stone  is  not  hard  like 
granite  or  porphyry,  but  in  such  a  climate  its  integ- 
rity is  wonderfully  preserved.  In  New  England 
or  Old,  the  decay  would  surely  be  much  more  rapid. 

In  the  suburbs  are  very  beautiful  drives ;  not 
among  green  fields  and  woods,  but  along  roads 
which,  being  stone,  are  firm  and  always  in  good 
repair,  with  no  unseemly  fringes  of  quagmire  or 
rank  weeds ;  with  charming  views  of  the  bays  and 
inlets,  of  the  harbors,  where  stately  ships  are  always 
riding,  and  where  trim  boats  are  always  gliding,  of 
palatial  buildings  and  gigantic  fortifications,  of 
creamy  slopes  and  sunny  heights.  Carriage-hire 
for  these  drives  is  quite  moderate.  To  St.  Paul's 
Bay,  which  from  Valetta  is  about  eight  miles,  a 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  28 1 

handsome  barouche  and  span  may  be  hired  for  half 
a  day,  with  a  careful  driver,  for  about  $1.25  ;  and 
if  there  be  a  company  of  "jolly  gentlemen,"  they 
may  get  Sicily  wine  for  sixpence  a  bottle,  and  cigars 
of  Havana  tobacco  for  thirty-six  cents  per  hundred. 
For  shorter  drives  a  turnout  like  that  just  named 
costs  about  forty  cents  per  hour.  Two  or  three 
young  men  from  South  America,  who  were  passen- 
gers on  our  ship,  took  the  ride  out  to  the  Bay,  and 
from  them  I  learned  the  cost  of  the  trip. 

And  here  I  beg  leave  to  say  that  I  have  not  seen 
the  cruelty  to  animals  so  much  talked  of  in  books 
and  by  letter-writers  as  being  practised  in  these 
countries.  I  have  noticed  that  the  little  donkeys, 
as  well  as  the  horses,  generally  look  plump,  as  if 
well  fed,  and  their  drivers  use  little  violence,  besides 
high  words  and  screeches;  but  that  is  affliction 
enough,  if  not  for  the  beasts,  certainly  for  the  quiet 
passer-by.  I  have  seen  a  donkey-boy  put  his  arm 
around  the  neck  of  his  diminutive  four-footed  co- 
laborer  as  if  he  really  loved  him.  Yet  I  have  some- 
times thought  they  were  heedlessly  overloaded. 
The  horses  look  glossy  and  well  groomed,  and 
being  fed  chiefly  on  grain  are  sufficiently  high- 
spirited  ;  they  are,  however,  small  as  compared 
with  the  English  team  horses.  Bits  are  often  dis- 
pensed with  in  driving  cart  horses. 

Citta-Vecchia,  which  is  five  or  six  miles  from 
Valetta,  and  reached  by  a  railroad,  the  only  one  on 
the  island,  must  of  course  be  visited.  So  on  Fri- 
day, December  7,  with  a  couple  of  young  English 


282  LEGACY   OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

gentlemen,  I  went  there.  We  went  by  railroad 
from  Valetta,  the  station  from  which  we  started 
being  what  in  any  other  place  would  be  regarded 
as  a  great  curiosity,  as  it  is  entirely  an  excavation 
in  the  rock  —  very  neat,  well-lighted,  capacious, 
and  evidently  executed  by  accomplished  work- 
men. 

Citta-Vecchia  is  the  oldest  and  in  some  respects 
most  interesting  of  the  settlements  of  the  Maltese 
island.  In  reality  however  the  whole  territory  is 
occupied,  there  being  several  villages,  hamlets  and 
detached  groups  of  buildings.  Citta-Vecchia  is 
near  the  island  center,  and  on  elevated  ground. 
Here,  at  Citta-Vecchia,  from  the  ramparts  may  be 
had  a  comprehensive  view,  giving  a  good  idea  of 
the  extent  and  nature  of  the  whole  territory.  The 
few  patches  of  green  and  cultivated  land,  the  long 
ranges  of  stone  wall  piled  up,  apparently  more  for 
the  purpose  of  clearing  the  land  than  for  use  as 
walls,  the  blue  inlets  and  more  distant  sea,  are  all 
within  the  range  of  vision.  The  prospect  is  unique 
and  really  grand  and  nothing  like  it  is  anywhere  else 
to  be  seen.  I  was  told  that  Mount  Etna,  in  Sicily, 
could  at  times  be  seen,  and  did  not  doubt  it,  as 
the  Sicilian  coast  is  but  about  fifty-five  miles  dis- 
tant. 

From  our  point  of  observation  St.  Paul's  Bay 
was  in  full  view ;  the  Bay,  which  was  the  scene  of 
the  apostle's  shipwreck  on  his  voyage  to  Rome. 
But  in  the  calm  sunshine  as  it  then  lay  a  toy  skiff 
might  have  ridden  in  safety.  The  inland  depth  of 


NOTES    OF  TRAVEL.  283 

the  bay  is  about  three  miles,  and  the  width  some 
two.  The  Knights  erected  a  tower  and  other  for- 
tifications which  still  remain.  A  little  chapel  marks 
the  supposed  spot  on  which  the  barbarians  built  the 
tire  to  warm  the  mariners,  and  which  also  warmed 
to  life  the  viper  that  showed  its  gratitude  by  fasten- 
ing on  the  saintly  hand.  Whether  that  memorable 
bite  drew  the  last  drop  of  venom  from  the  viperous 
race  hereabout  may  not  be  known,  but  certain  it 
seems  to  be  that  no  venomous  reptiles  have  since 
been  known  to  exist  on  the  island.  Some  old  draw- 
ings preserved  in  the  chapel  represent  incidents 
connected  with  the  shipwreck.  A  monument  marks 
the  spot  on  which  it  is  alleged  the  apostle  landed. 
The  Bay  has  become  quite  a  watering  place  and  is 
much  visited,  for  aside  from  its  scriptural  interest  it 
has  attractions  in  the  salubrity  of  the  air,  the  beauty 
of  the  sunsets  and  the  rugged  aspect  of  the  adjacent 
scenery.  The  scriptural  account  speaks  of  the 
people  who  received  Paul  in  so  friendly  a  manner 
as  "  barbarians,"  but  by  that  term  is  no  doubt  merely 
meant  strangers,  for  the  Greeks  and  Romans  mod- 
estly distinguished  all  outsiders  as  barbarians. 

I  need  not  remark  that  various  spots  hereabouts 
are  shown  as  sanctified  by  the  apostle's  presence ; 
for  instance,  the  places  where  he  lived,  where  he 
preached,  where  he  retired  for  meditation.  But  it 
was  sufficient  for  us,  as  we  stood  upon  the  lofty 
battlements  and  scanned  the  striking  scenery  by 
which  we  were  surrounded,  that  all  around  the 
saintly  foot  had  trod  and  the  saintly  voice  been  heard. 


284  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

Citta-Vecchia,  as  I  have  said,  is  the  oldest  settle- 
ment of  the  Maltese  island  and  is  full  of  historical 
interest.  We  were  shown  what  are  undoubtedly 
the  ruins  of  a  Roman  villa ;  the  ponderous  stones 
of  the  foundations  are  there,  and  sculptured  frag- 
ments lay  about ;  an  area  of  rich  mosaic,  and  other 
unmistakable  evidences  of  a  grand  residence  are 
visible,  including  portions  of  marble  statuary,  lamps 
and  vases.  It  must  have  been  in  this  immediate 
vicinity  that  the  hospitable  Publius,  the  "  chief  man 
of  the  island,"  lived  {Acts  28,  v.  7).  And  perhaps 
we  have  here  the  remains  of  his  luxurious  home. 
Tradition  says  that  Publius  became  Bishop  of  Malta. 
But  there  are  remains  of  undoubtedly  greater  antiq- 
uity than  these. 

With  lighted  candles  and  a  mercenary  guide  we 
descended  into  the  "  Catacombs/' as  they  are  called 
—  mysterious  chambers  and  winding  passages 
wrought  in  the  bowels  of  the  rock  with  wonderful 
skill  and  labor,  and  so  intricate  that  if  left  alone 
one  would  despair  of  ever  seeing  daylight  again  — 
chambers  compared  with  which  the  excavations  in 
Dungeon  Rock,  in  Lynn  Woods,  are  but  a  rough 
footprint  or  two.  With  my  candle  I  examined  some 
of  the  work,  and  found  fluted  pillars  and  doorways 
that  indicated  great  patience  and  ingenuity  in  the 
hands  that  worked  in  those  strange,  dark,  stifled 
caverns. 

By  the  more  intelligent  antiquaries  these  excava- 
tions are  supposed  to  have  been  the  work  of  the 
Phoenicians.  But  our  guide,  whose  knowledge 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  285 

seemed  equal  to  all  occasions,  said  they  were 
Mahometan  tombs.  He  crawled  into  one,  and  after 
digging  about  with  his  hands  in  the  bushel  or  two 
of  dust,  produced  a  bit  of  decaying  bone  which  he 
gave  me,  saying  it  was  the  finger  bone  of  a  Mahome- 
tan, but  did  not  inform  me  how  he  knew  that 
pathetic  fact.  However,  I  have  preserved  it  among 
my  other  relics,  to  muse  over  in  some  future  medita- 
tive moment.  These  subterranean  chambers  may 
possibly  have  been  used  by  the  Saracens  while  they 
occupied  the  island,  or  by  the  early  Christians  as 
retreats  from  Roman  persecution.  At  all  events, 
they  are  interesting  though  their  full  history  may 
never  be  known.  Phoenicians,  Saracens  and  Chris- 
tians may  in  turn  have  used  them. 

The  extent  of  these  Catacombs  is  not  now  fully 
known,  as  some  passages  have  been  walled  up  for 
the  purpose  it  is  said  of  preventing  accidents ;  it 
being  traditionally  asserted  that  persons  sometimes 
lost  their  way  and  perished.  When  St.  Paul  visited 
them — as  it  is  fair  to  presume  he  did,  while  the 
"  barbarians  "  were  showing  him  the  lions  of  the 
place,  though  I  did  not  see  his  name  among  those 
scribbled  upon  the  walls  —  he  must,  if  he  did  not 
have  a  more  attentive  guide  or  better  luck  than  we, 
have  emerged  with  a  sore  head  occasioned  by 
bumps  in  the  low  passages. 

The  Inquisition  was  established  in  Malta  in  1575. 
While  in  Citta-Vecchia  we  visited  the  cells  and 
rooms  in  which  transpired  the  harrowing  scenes  at 
the  recollection  of  which  the  Christian  world  now 


286  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

shudders.  It  need  not  be  said  with  what  feeling  of 
relief  we  left  those  gloomy  chambers,  enduring  the 
head  bumpings  against  the  low  doorways  with  the 
patience  of  martyrs. 

There  are  at  Citta-Vecchia  one  or  two  churches 
well  worthy  of  more  than  a  passing  notice,  not  only 
for  the  interesting  historical  collections  they  con- 
tain, but  likewise  for  their  rich  endowments  in  pict- 
ures, vestments  and  costly  utensils,  and  for  the 
beauty  of  their  various  decorations.  The  church 
of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul  stands  pre-eminent. 

There  is  probably  no  place  in  the  whole  Christian 
world  where  at  the  present  time  the  Roman  Catholic 
religion  flourishes  in  greater  vigor  than  in  Malta. 
Of  course  other  forms  are  tolerated,  for  it  is  under 
British  rule.  But  the  native  population  are  almost 
exclusively  Catholic,  and  being  far  from  an  educated 
people  unquestionably  accept  crudities  that  really 
belong  to  old  monkish  days  rather  than  to  modern 
Catholic  thought.  The  chiming  of  bells  —  for  there 
are  several  sets — may  be  almost  constantly  heard, 
and  Saints'  day  celebrations,  illuminations  and  pro- 
cessions seem  perpetually  in  order.  I  asked  the 
captain  of  one  of  the  ships  which  regularly  run  . 
here  how  often  the  religious  celebrations  took  place. 
"  Three  hundred  and  sixty-five  times  a  year,"  said 
he,  '*  with  an  occasional  extra  day  thrown  in." 
The  number  of  ordained  priests  in  Malta  is  said  to 
be  fully  a  thousand.  And  it  will  at  once  be  per- 
ceived that  their  support  is  a  heavy  tax,  for  they 
are  not  a  producing  class.  Their  maintenance,  and 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  287 

the  cost  of  the  processions,  illuminations,  and  so 
forth  are,  however,  not  to  be  counted  if  souls  are 
saved  by  the  means. 

During  our  visit  at  Citta-Vecchia  we  were  beset  by 
such  a  number  of  beggars,  old  and  young,  male 
and  female,  as  it  has  not  been  my  fortune  hitherto 
to  encounter.  And  their  unabashed  persistence 
arose  almost  to  the  sublime.  If  St.  Paul  was  fol- 
lowed by  such  a  pertinacious  crew  as  followed  us, 
he  might  with  reason  have  called  them  barbarians 
in  a  more  offensive  sense  than  he  probably  did.  I 
cannot  avoid  the  conclusion  that  example  has  some 
influence  here.  The  ecclesiastics  are  constantly 
begging  in  one  way  and  another,  and  the  good- 
natured  friars  who  perambulate  the  streets  with  their 
leathern  pouches  have  an  insinuating  way  of  ask- 
ing, almost  demanding,  alms,  which  seems  to  give 
character  to  the  profession,  elevating  it  in  the  eyes 
of  the  vulgar  and  lazy  to  a  regular  calling.  One 
storekeeper,  with  whom  I  had  some  conversation 
after  the  bare-footed  ecclesiastic  had  gone  out, 
seemed  to  regard  his  little  weekly  contribution  as  a 
regular  tax,  to  be  unhesitatingly  paid.  I  have  the 
highest  respect  for  religious  people,  however  their 
peculiar  views  may  differ  from  my  own,  but  some 
noxious  weeds  which  have  grown  in  the  regenerat- 
ing sunshine  of  Christianity  perhaps  might  be  up- 
rooted without  injury. 

We  found  it  very  easy  to  purchase  "ancient" 
coins  and  similar  curiosities  at  a  cheap  rate,  for 
even  the  children  had  them  for  sale  in  plenty.  One 


288  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

of  our  little  party  asked  if  I  would  like  to  invest. 
I  told  him  I  would  not  take  any  as  antiquities  for 
they  were  evidently  spurious,  as  I  could  see  the 
Maltese  cross  upon  them ;  but  as  mementos  of  our 
visit,  I  did  not  matter  having  a  few,  if  he  could 
drive  a  reasonable  bargain.  Upon  that  he  made 
an  offer  for  the  whole  lot  that  a  man  had,  which 
was  less  than  was  asked  for  a  single  piece.  While 
waiting  for  a  reply,  another  stepped  up  and  offered 
a  similar  lot  for  the  price  named.  "  But  I  won't 
give  it  now,"  warmly  responded  our  negotiator. 
**  I  will  give  you  only  so  much  for  your  lot."  And 
we  made  a  motion  as  if  to  move  on.  It  is  needless 
to  add  that  we  got  the  lot  at  our  own  price,  and  di- 
vided the  acquisition  ;  but,  unfortunately,  I  after- 
wards lost  a  part  of  my  share.  They  were  no 
doubt  made  in  Birmingham,  as  I  told  the  man, 
though  he  pretended  not  to  understand  me.  Those 
Birmingham  manufacturers  of  antiquities,  who  send 
such  supplies  all  over  the  East,  have  much  to 
answer  for. 

The  Maltese  appear  to  be  very  fond  of  music. 
Pianos  may  be  heard  at  almost  any  time  as  one 
passes  along  the  streets.  And  in  St.  George's 
Square  the  regimental  bands  frequently  give  enter- 
tainments of  a  high  order;  indeed,  military  music 
salutes  the  ear  almost  every  day,  Sunday  not  ex- 
cepted. 

The  English  church  service  may  of  course  be 
heard  in  Malta,  as  the  high  officials  are  of  the  or- 
der, and  there  are  always  a  considerable  number 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  289 

of  English  residents.  On  my  first  Sunday  there  I 
attended  worship  in  the  Garrison  Church,  a  fine 
though  not  ostentatious  edifice,  in  a  pleasant  square. 
The  house  was  quite  filled  with  soldiers  in  full  uni- 
form, and  the  services  were  conducted  by  a  chap- 
lain, rather  in  regimentals  than  canonicals.  The 
music  was  grand,  as  may  be  supposed,  as  it  was 
rendered  by  at  least  two  hundred  trained  male  voices, 
accompanied  by  a  full  regimental  band.  The  sol- 
diers, joined  in  the  services  with  much  heartiness 
and  decorum.  At  the  close  there  was  a  parade  in 
the  square,  and  then  to  the  music  of  the  band  the 
worshippers  marched  to  quarters. 

In  the  streets  of  Malta  one  sees  a  great  variety 
of  costumes  ;  ecclesiastics  in  robes  of  black,  brown 
and  gray,  some  bareheaded,  some  barefooted,  sol- 
diers in  scarlet  coats,  and  jack  tars  in  blue,  all  seem- 
ing to  take  pride  in  looking  fine  and  trim.  As  to 
the  garments  of  the  civilians,  one  may  see  every 
style,  from  the  latest  Parisian  to  the  coarsest  Oriental, 
almost  to  no  dress  at  all. 

The  most  interesting  place  in  Valetta  for  a  stran- 
ger to  visit  is  the  palace,  which  is  an  architectural 
pile  traversed  on  its  four  sides  by  fine  streets.  It  is 
not  a  particularly  grand  edifice,  but  it  contains  col- 
lections, genuine  and  of  rare  interest,  among  them 
portraits  of  all  the  grand  masters,  paintings  of 
famous  battle  scenes,  numerous  specimens  of  an- 
cient armor  and  ancient  arms,  splendid  tapestry, 
rows  of  knights  in  full  dress  of  mail,  curious  mus- 
kets, pistols,  swords,  daggers  and  other  weapons  — 


2pO  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

among  them  the  sword  of  the  famous  Dragut  the 
Algerine,  a  strange  old  Turkish  cannon  of  five- 
inch  calibre,  made  of  a  thin  cylinder  of  copper 
wound  with  tarred  rope  and  covered  with  plaster, 
and  specimens  of  breech-loaders  hundreds  of  years 
old. 

But  I  need  not  go  further  into  details,  excepting 
to  mention  the  carriage  of  the  Grand  Masters, 
which  was  embellished  with  great  magnificence, 
though  cumbersome  as  compared  with  the  carriages 
of  our  day.  It  is  the  same  carriage  in  which,  the 
attendant  was  careful  to  inform  us,  Bonaparte  rode 
when  he  entered  Malta,  but  I  did  not  care  to  dis- 
turb his  equanimity  by  reminding  him  that  it  was 
the  very  carriage  in  which  history  informs  us  Bona- 
parte refused  to  enter,  preferring  to  march  at  the 
head  of  his  troops. 

Various  tropical  fruits  are  produced  in  Malta, 
though  the  culture,  as  may  be  imagined,  cannot  be 
extensive  on  account  of  the  little  soil  by  which  the 
rock  is  covered.  The  oranges  are  of  excellent 
flavor.  Lemons  and  figs  were  seen,  but  not  in  pro- 
fusion, and  in  walking  up  the  island  I  noticed  con- 
siderable quantities  of  the  prickly-pear  plants,  full 
of  fruit. 

Within  the  fortification  walls  and  about  the  bar- 
racks, as  well  as  along  some  of  the  roadsides  lead- 
ing from  Valetta,  were  numerous  small  trees  full 
of  fruit  about  the  size  of  dwarf  cherries.  I  made 
some  inquiry  as  to  what  the  fruit  was,  but  did  not 
get  a  satisfactory  answer ;  either  the  one  questioned 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  2pl 

did  not  know,  or  gave  a  name  that  I  could  make 
nothing  of. 

Soon  after  leaving  the  Island,  however,  it  occurred 
to  me  that  it  could  be  none  other  than  the  fruit  that 
so  figured  in  the  whimsical  story  told  by  Sir  Jonah 
Barrington,  which  story  relates,  that  at  an  officers' 
mess,  over  their  wine,  an  Irish  Captain  gave  some 
glowing  accounts  of  affairs  while  his  regiment  was 
stationed  at  Malta.  I  have  not  read  the  story  for 
more  than  sixty  years,  but  can  probably  give  a 
sufficiently  intelligible  outline. 

The  Captain  in  question,  while  enthusiastically 
describing  the  fruits  with  which  they  were  constantly 
regaled,  declared  among  other  things  that  the  trees 
along  the  barracks  were  so  loaded  with  anchovies 
that  they  could  be  plucked  by  the  handful. 

"  Anchovies  !"  exclaimed  a  brother  officer,  "  an- 
chovies do  not  grow  on  trees ;  they  are  fishes  !" 

"  Then  I  'm  a  liar,  am  I,"  retorted  the  other,  his 
Irish  blood  beginning  to  warm. 

"  Yes,  you  are,  if  you  insist  that  you  saw  ancho- 
vies growing  on  trees  in  Malta,  or  anywhere  else. 
I  tell  you  anchovies  are  fish." 

The  war  of  words  waxed  warm,  each  vehemently 
maintaining  his  ground.  The  result  was  a  chal- 
lenge to  immediatelv  fight  a  duel.  The  other  offi- 
cers present  were  not  averse  to  that  mode  of  settle- 
ment, and  out  they  all  went  to  the  duelling  ground. 
It  was  the  fortune  of  the  Irish  Captain  to  bring 
down  his  opponent  at  the  first  fire.  No  one  expected 
such  a  result,  and  they  were  horror-struck  ;  none 


2p2  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

more  so  than  he  whose  bullet  had  done  the  deed. 
They  all  rushed  toward  the  fallen  soldier,  and  as 
they  were  raising  up  the  writhing  body,  some  one 
happened  to  quaintly  remark  that  he  never  before 
saw  a  dying  soldier  cut  such  queer  capers. 

"Capers!  capers!"  exclaimed  the  unfortunate 
Irish  Captain,  "it  was  capers  that  grew  about  the 
barracks  in  Malta,  and  not  anchovies  at  all.  And 
now  I  've  shot  my  poor  friend  for  a  mistake  of  my 
own." 

This  relation  of  Sir  Jonah  occurred  forcibly  to 
me,  as  I  remembered  how  much  the  little  fruit,  so 
plentiful  about  those  barracks,  resembled  capers  — 
which  they  probably  were,  in  a  ripened  condition. 
The  pickles  imported  under  the  name  are  chiefly 
flower  buds. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

EGYPT HER    PEOPLE    AND    HER    WONDERS. 

IT  WAS  on  the  evening  of  December  8,  that  I 
went  on  board  the  steamer  Ararat,  at  Malta,  bound 
for  Alexandria,  in  Egypt.  And  it  was  at  that  part- 
ing moment,  if  ever,  that  I  longed  for  the  poetic 
fire  of  a  Byron  —  and  Lord  Byron,  by  the  way, 
resided  for  a  short  time  in  Malta,  the  house  in  which 
he  lived  being  still  pointed  out  —  that  I  might  give 
some  adequate  description  of  the  scene. 

By  the  glorious  sunset  and  illuminated  cloudlets, 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  293 

the  waters  were  tinged  with  gold  and  violet.  And 
when  they  faded  away  into  night  the  many-colored 
lights  of  the  ships  and  along  the  shores  began 
their  valiant  dance.  In  the  town  and  neighboring 
villages  there  were  illuminations,  music  and  the 
constant  chiming  of  bells,  as  it  was  the  day  for  the 
celebration  of  the  conception  of  the  Blessed  Virgin. 
The  evening  guns  from  the  war  ships  and  the  for- 
tifications echoed  over  the  waters,  and  the  tinkling 
of  ships'  bells,  with  now  and  then  a  bugle-note  from 
the  ramparts,  saluted  the  charmed  ear.  The  steam 
was  up.  We  soon  rounded  the  fortifications,  the 
last  Maltese  coast-light  faded  from  view,  and  I  was 
once  more  rocking  "  in  the  cradle  of  the  deep." 

From  Malta  to  Alexandria  we  had  an  exceedingly 
pleasant  run,  several  jolly  young  fellows,  on  their 
way  to  Soudan,  being  on  board.  The  trip  occupied 
about  ten  days. 

Alexandria  has  for  many  centuries  held  a  prom- 
inent rank  in  the  world,  but  its  history  is  so  familiar 
that  an  attempt  at  details  would  be  out  of  place 
here.  It  has  a  capacious  harbor,  in  which  may  be 
seen  at  all  times  great  numbers  of  ships  from  every 
part  of  the  commercial  world.  And  here,  for  the 
first  time  in  an  Eastern  port,  I  saw  the  American 
flag  flying,  and  then  it  was  upon  an  English  steamer 
which  was  probably  in  the  American  trade. 

Alexandria,  with  its  fine  buildings  of  light  stone, 
its  graceful  minarets  and  domes,  has  a  striking 
appearance  from  the  water,  though  the  land  on 
which  it  stands  is  low,  flat  and  rather  barren  of 


294  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

trees.  In  its  general  appearance  it  is  an  Oriental 
city,  though  there  are  many  French,  German,  Eng- 
lish and  Italian  residents.  From  the  disastrous 
effects  of  the  late  bombardment,  which  took  place 
in  1882  and  continued  two  days,  it  had  by  no  means 
recovered,  though  much  had  been  done  in  repairing 
and  rebuilding.  Not  many  lives  were  lost,  for 
ample  warning  was  given,  but  the  destruction  of 
property  was  very  considerable,  as  in  addition  to 
the  direct  batterings,  fires  were  kindled  and  fierce 
conflagrations  raged  in  various  quarters. 

By  the  terms  of  settlement,  the  loss  of  property 
belonging  to  individuals  is  to  be  paid  for  by  the 
Egyptian  government,  and  I  was  informed  by  one 
of  the  sufferers  that  the  entire  sum  to  be  awarded 
would  most  likely  reach  about  £5,000,000  ($25,000,- 
ooo)  ;  which  is  a  large  amount  to  be  met  in  the 
present  impoverished  condition  of  the  treasury. 
But  there  is  a  proposition  to  hereafter  tax  foreign 
residents  who  are  doing  business  in  Egypt,  a  class 
who,  heretofore,  singularly  enough,  have  managed 
to  escape  taxation.  There  would  seem  to  be  the 
utmost  fairness  in  requiring  these  commercial  para- 
sites to  do  their  part  under  existing  circumstances 
for  the  relief  of  the  government  which  has  hereto- 
fore not  only  protected,  but  highly  favored  them. 
But  there  was  a  good  deal  of  chafing  on  the  subject 
when  I  was  there,  and  grave  doubts  expressed  as 
to  how  the  matter  would  end.  It  is  not  easy  to  see, 
if  something  of  the  kind  is  not  done,  what  the 
government  will  do  to  meet  the  demands. 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  295 

Immediately  on  my  arrival  in  Alexandria,  a 
smart,  youngish  man  in  Oriental  costume  came  on 
board  and,  through  the  little  English  at  his  command, 
made  known  his  intention  to  be  my  guide  while  I 
remained  there.  He  said  he  would  take  me  to 
Pompey's  Pillar,  the  Khedive's  palace,  the  College 
and  all  places  of  interest.  I  found  the  Captain 
knew  him  and  had  considerable  confidence  in  him. 
So  we  came  to  a  sort  of  loose  understanding  as  to 
the  gross  amount  he  should  receive  for  his  services. 
He  assured  me  that  he  would  do  his  duty  in  a  faith- 
ful manner,  as  he  desired  to  have  from  me  a  certifi- 
cate that  would  be  of  use  to  him  as  a  guide  to  other 
travellers.  I  think  he  said  he  was  a  native  of 
Abyssinia,  but  had  lived  in  Alexandria  nearly  all 
his  life.  At  any  rate  he  was  black  enough  to  be 
an  Abyssinian.  I  afterwards  found  that  he  was  well- 
known  about  the  city,  and  did  considerable  business 
of  one  kind  and  another.  As  we  passed  along  he 
was  often  respectfully  saluted  and  seemed  to  bear 
himself  with  becoming  dignity.  He  brought  a 
boat,  as  the  ship  lay  some  distance  off  in  the  har- 
bor, took  me  on  shore  and  at  once  commenced 
showing  me  about  some  of  the  principal  streets  and 
bazaars,  explaining  things  with  a  volubility  that  was 
rather  confusing,  considering  his  often  unfortunate 
use  of  English  words. 

He  was  in  the  place  at  the  time  of  the  bombard- 
ment and  able  to  lead  me  to  the  quarters  where  the 
effects  were  most  visible.  About  noon  he  took  me 
into  one  of  the  little  native  coffee  booths,  where 


296  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

were  old  men  and  young,  squatting  about  in  Turkish 
fashion,  sipping  their  thick  black  beverage  from 
tiny  cups.  I  sat  down  among  them,  disposing  of 
my  legs  in  as  Christian-like  a  manner  as  the  seats 
would  admit,  and  was  treated  to  a  cup ;  but  though 
the  flavor  was  really  delicious,  I  could  drink  but 
little,  as  it  was  prepared  in  the  Eastern  style  — thick 
and  without  sugar  or  milk.  The  keeper  of  the 
"  saloon,"  was  polite  to  me  and  a  little  daughter  of 
his,  of  some  five  years,  was  so  romping  and  full  of 
fun  that  she  kept  the  younger  customers  in  high  glee. 
My  guide,  as  I  may  as  well  call  him,  finally  took 
me  to  the  railroad  station,  as  I  proposed  going  to 
Cairo.  I  gave  him  an  English  gold  piece  with 
which  he  purchased  my  ticket  and  handed  it  to  me 
with  a  little  change,  which  from  some  cause  I  sus- 
pected was  not  right,  but  he  declared  that  it  was. 
After  he  had  gone,  however,  I  found  it  was  just  one 
shilling  short.  This  was  a  trifling  matter,  but  it 
lessened  my  confidence,  as  he  was  to  receive  a 
specified  sum  for  all  his  services.  And  my  confi- 
dence was  not  restored  when,  on  my  return  from 
Cairo,  I  told  him  I  had  discovered  his  little  pecca- 
dillo and  he  insisted  that  the  mistake  was  made  at 
the  ticket  office.  I  did  not  much  avail  myself  of 
his  services  after  returning,  though  I  met  him  fre- 
quently, and  we  kept  up  a  good-natured  recogni- 
tion of  each  other.  He  was  on  board  the  ship  just 
before  sailing,  and  bade  me  a  pleasant  good-bye, 
after  receiving  about  double  what  he  had  reason  to 
expect.  I  felt  quite  willing  to  recommend  him  as 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  297 

one  well  acquainted  with  the  city  and  its  people, 
active,  intelligent,  and  with  a  lively  appreciation  of 
his  own  capacity.  But  I  did  not  feel  entirely  safe 
in  recommending  him  for  moderation  in  his  demands, 
for  skill  in  the  use  of  the  English  language,  nor  for 
his  historical  knowledge. 

Perhaps  the  most  important  event  in  the  whole 
history  of  Alexandria  was  the  destruction,  as  is 
alleged,  though  not  without  reasonable  doubt,  by 
the  victorious  Saracens,  of  that  great  collection 
known  as  the  Alexandrian  Library  when,  with 
their  conquering  arms  they  invaded  the  Mediterra- 
nean States,  enforcing  their  religion  and  polity  by 
fire  and  sword.  Had  that  invaluable  collection 
been  preserved  it  is  not  likely  that  the  scholastic 
world  would  at  this  day  be  disputing  over  certain 
questions  which  now  can  never  be  settled  :  questions 
touching  the  knowledge  of  the  ancients  in  mechan- 
ics, in  science,  in  literature,  in  the  arts,  in  every- 
thing pertaining  to  the  welfare  of  mankind.  But 
my  guide,  to  his  shame  be  it  said,  knew  nothing 
about  the  Alexandrian  Library  ;  and  while  surprised 
at  his  ignorance,  I  was  pleased  at  his  frankness  in 
confessing  it.  Why,  it  was  not  much  more  than  a 
thousand  years  ago  that  the  nefarious  action  took 
place,  and  to  find  a  guide  who  forbore  to  claim  that 
his  great  grandfather,  at  least,  was  present  was 
something  wonderful.  Guides  are  the  most  know- 
ing people  I  have  ever  met  or  expect  to  meet. 

Taking  an  afternoon  train  at  Alexandria  for 
Cairo,  I  found  myself  in  a  motley  company,  mostly 


298  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

Arabs  and  Egyptians,  with  a  sparse  sprinkling  of 
Europeans.  The  cars  are  not  elegant  nor  so  con- 
venient as  those  of  America,  but  their  motion  is 
easy  and  the  rate  of  speed  about  the  same  as  in 
other  countries. 

Cairo  is  about  seven  hours'  ride  from  Alexandria, 
and  the  route  is  through  a  pleasant  country  and  one 
of  great  historical  interest.  Groves  of  the  stately 
date-bearing  palm  are  seen  at  intervals ;  orange 
trees  and  patches  of  sugar  cane  likewise,  as  well 
as  the  lesser  vegetable  growths,  attract  the  eye  of 
the  traveler. 

But  the  great  product  is  cotton.  And  to  judge 
from  the  immense  piles  of  bales  and  bags  at  some 
of  the  stations,  one  might  well  conclude  that  Cotton 
will  soon  be  King  in  Egypt,  now  that  it  has  been 
deposed  from  its  sovereignty  in  America.  The 
Egyptian  cotton  is  said  to  be  equal  in  quality  to  that 
produced  in  any  part  of  the  world,  excepting  the 
Sea  Island.  The  cultivation  is  getting  to  be  more 
extensive  and  profitable  than  was  a  few  years  since 
anticipated.  In  1883,  the  amount  exported  brought 
a  return  of  some  $50,000,000.  The  ship  in  which 
I  left  Alexandria  took  3,300  bales,  each  of  720 
pounds  weight. 

Our  civil  war,  not  to  speak  irreverently,  was  a 
God-send  to  Egypt.  She  so  understood  it,  and 
made  strenuous  efforts  to  gain  the  cotton  trade  of 
England,  so  interrupted.  A  great  measure  of  suc- 
cess has  attended  her  efforts,  and  the  cultivation 
still  goes  on  increasing. 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  299 

We  passed  along  through  fields  —  all  unfenced  — 
clothed  in  luxuriant  green,  and  laborers  were  at 
work  in  every  direction.  Irrigating  canals  and 
trenches  abound,  with  wheels  and  apparatus  for 
distributing  the  water.  Some  of  the  "  teams  "  were 
very  odd  and  the  animal  and  mechanical  forces 
oddly  united  and  applied.  I  saw  in  one  place  a 
camel  and  an  ox  yoked  together,  apparently  pursu- 
ing their  labor  in  the  utmost  harmony. 

Miserable  Arab  mud  villages  were  frequently 
passed,  and  one  or  two  Turkish  cemeteries;  the 
latter  looking,  for  all  the  world,  like  miniature  cities, 
neat  and  tasty. 

As  evening  drew  on,  long  lines  of  camels  and 
donkeys  were  seen  filing  homeward,  some  with 
burdens  as  large  as  their  own  bodies.  And  men, 
boys  and  girls  were  trudging  wearily  along  or  sit- 
ting in  groups  upon  the  ground  for  rest  or  gossip. 

The  train  stopped  at  two  or  three  large  towns  and 
quite  a  number  of  villages.  The  stations  are  neat 
and  supplied  with  the  various  conveniences  of  offices 
and  sanitary  arrangements  common  in  other  coun- 
tries, the  names  being  conspicuously  posted  in 
Arabic  and  French.  The  evening  was  very  pleas- 
ant, as  Egyptian  weather  is  such  that  it  is  seldom 
otherwise,  and  the  interesting  ride  constantly  opened 
scenes  that  appeared  like  the  mere  reproduction  of 
old  Bible  pictures.  But  a  train  of  railroad  cars 
gliding  along  was  a  sight  that  probably  never 
greeted  the  eyes  of  a  Pharaoh  or  a  Cleopatra.  The 
cars  were  quite  well  filled,  and  the  passengers  were 


3OO  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

very  civil ;  excepting  that  when  here  and  there  at 
some  village  station  a  bevy  of  merry  youngsters 
were  taken  in,  everything  was  as  quiet  as  the  most 
stolid  Turk  could  desire. 

We  arrived  at  Cairo  at  about  nine  in  the  evening. 
It  was  bright  moonlight  and  everything  looked 
cheerful.  There  were  plenty  of  carriages  and 
saddled  donkeys  in  waiting,  but  no  uproar,  or 
"  pulling  or  hauling."  Fortunately  I  had  fallen  in 
with  a  fellow  passenger  who  could  speak  very  good 
English,  was  a  resident  of  the  city,  and  well  ac- 
quainted with  the  wants  of  travellers.  He  secured 
a  carriage  for  me,  took  passage  in  it  himself,  and 
saw  that  I  was  safely  landed  at  the  Nile  Hotel  — 
"  Hotel  du  Nil."  I  found  it  a  very  comfortable 
place,  with  a  large  number  of  well-dressed  guests 
from  various  parts  of  the  world.  A  good  meal, 
for  which  I  was  sorely  in  need,  was  speedily  pre- 
pared. And  though  such  things  are  properly  re- 
garded as  specially  private  matters,  I  must  give  a 
few  details  partly  to  show  what  kinds  of  provision 
may  be  had  on  call,  and  partly  to  show  what  an  ex- 
traordinary idea  they  had  of  the  stomachic  capacity 
of  a  moderate-sized  American.  They  spread  for 
me  warm  and  cold  meats,  vegetables,  bread,  French 
chocolate,  oranges  and  dates  fresh  from  the  trees, 
various  dried  fruits,  and  lastly,  though  I  have  not 
mentioned  everything,  a  dish  of  real  Egyptian 
honey  —  yes,  honey  of  such  flavor,  that  if  that 
which  the  patriarch  Jacob  sent  down  with  the  pro- 
pitiatory offering  to  his  prosperous  son  Joseph  was 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  3OI 

equal,  it  could  not  have  failed  to  have  a  mollifying 
effect. 

Immediately  after  supper  they  handed  me  some 
English  and  Egyptian  newspapers,  and  on  my  re- 
marking that  I  wished  I  could  see  an  American 
paper,  they  brought  two  or  three  late  New  York 
Heralds.  Then  I  was  introduced  to  a  couple  of 
young  gentlemen,  to  whose  polite  attentions  I  was 
greatly  indebted  during  my  short  stay  in  the  city. 
One  was  an  Austrian  military  officer,  in  uniform, 
on  his  way  to  Soudan,  and  who  could  speak  perfect 
English ;  and  the  other  an  Englishman,  in  the  pay 
of  government  as  teacher  of  some  of  the  higher 
mathematical  branches.  They  both,  though  young, 
had  seen  much  of  the  world,  were  intelligent,  and 
in  no  manner  pompous  or  assuming.  We  sat  con- 
versing till  near  midnight.  It  was  in  company  with 
the  latter  that,  on  the  next  day,  I  made  an  excur- 
sion to  the  Pyramids,  those  mysterious  monuments 
of  an  unknown  age. 

THE    PYRAMIDS. 

We  took  an  open  carriage,  in  the  forenoon,  and, 
passing  through  some  of  the  busy  streets  of  Cairo, 
were  soon  upon  the  substantial  though  not  elegant 
bridge  that  spans  the  Nile.  The  width  of  the  river 
here,  at  that  season,  December,  is  not  greater  than 
that  of  several  of  our  New  England  streams. 
There  was  a  fresh  breeze  up  the  Nile  valley  and 
the  road  in  some  places  was  gullied  and  disagreea- 
bly dusty. 


302  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

The  Pyramids  are  some  eight  miles  from  the 
westerly  bank,  and  the  road  for  the  greater  part  of 
the  distance  is  through  a  double  row  of  trees  of 
thick  foliage,  which  in  some  places  overarch.  They 
were  then  full  of  fruit,  long  pods  much  resembling 
tamarinds  swaying  in  the  somewhat  strong  breeze. 
The  fruit,  however,  was  not  the  edible  tamarind. 
The  road  was  not  in  very  good  repair,  though  quite 
passable.  And  here  and  there  appeared  the  mud- 
house  of  an  Egyptian  farmer,  with  heaps  of  corn  in 
the  husk,  as  high  as  the  house  itself.  The  corn, 
though  considerably  smaller  in  kernel  and  ear  than 
our  common  New  England  product,  otherwise  much 
resembles  it.  It  can  remain  out  of  doors,  as  there 
is  no  danger  of  rain,  and  so  a  multiplicity  of  out- 
buildings is  unnecessary. 

In  due  time  we  reached  the  rocky  and  sandy 
plateau  on  which  the  Pyramids  stand.  They  are 
three  in  number,  and  known  as  the  Gizeh  group, 
Cheops  being  the  largest.  Like  all  other  objects 
of  an  extraordinary  nature,  the  stranger  does  not 
at  once  realize  their  greatness  or  grandeur.  Indeed, 
he  is  apt  mentally  to  exclaim,  "  Is  this  all?"  But 
he  soon  begins  to  comprehend,  to  wonder  and  ad- 
mire. It  was  so  with  me,  though  it  did  not  take 
long  to  realize  that  I  was  gazing  upon  the  grandest 
work  of  art  yet  produced  by  man. 

As  soon  as  we  had  alighted  from  our  carriage, 
which  was  a  sort  of  open  barouche  much  used  in 
that  part  of  Egypt,  no  covering  being  required  for 
protection  against  rain,  we  were  beset  by  a  bevy  of 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  303 

Arabs  who  seemed  to  take  it  for  granted  that  we 
desired  to  ascend  to  the  top  of  Cheops.  But  we 
peremptorily  declined  the  privilege  as  the  wind  was 
high,  and  unless  we  kept  on  the  leeward  side,  the 
drifting  sand,  on  the  lower  layers  at  least,  would  be 
very  annoying.  But  we  saw  quite  a  number  of 
men  and  women  climbing  along  at  different  heights, 
those  near  the  top  looking  little  larger  than  dolls. 

It  is  not  really  difficult  to  ascend  by  the  help  of  the 
Arabs  who  are  always  in  attendance,  but  one  un- 
accustomed to  clamber  up  dizzy  heights  would  find 
it  quite  impossible  to  work  his  way  upward.  The 
layers  of  stone  form  narrow  steps  of  extremely 
inconvenient  rise,  some  being  full  four  feet.  Two 
Arabs  accompany  each  visitor.  They  keep  one 
step  ahead,  and,  bending  over,  take  the  hands  of 
the  person  and  really  lift  him  up.  The  Arabs  go 
up  and  down  with  surprising  agility,  and  it  is  said 
that  for  the  price  of  a  shilling  or  two  the  younger 
ones  will  dash  down  upon  the  run.  A  man  accus- 
tomed to  treading  narrow  and  lofty  stagings,  and 
not  liable  to  dizziness,  I  have  rib  doubt,  might  work 
his  way  up  alone,  but  no  ordinary  person  would 
think  of  venturing  without  the  assistance  of  the 
Arabs. 

Declining  to  ascend,  we  accepted  assistance  to 
descend  —  to  go  down  into  the  interior  of  Cheops  ; 
and  it  is  something  to  climb  up  to  the  entrance, 
which  is  more  than  forty  feet  from  the  ground  —  a 
height  about  equal  to  the  top  of  a  four-story  build- 
ing. The  Arab  Sheik  was  seated  on  one  of  the 


304  LEGACY    OF    AX    OCTOGENARIAN. 

enormous  blocks  of  stone  near  the  entrance  and, 
learning  our  desire,  furnished  each  of  us  with  two 
stalwart,  half-naked  Arabs,  as  conductors,  a  candle, 
and  a  few  good-natured  suggestions  and  cautions. 
Somehow  from  the  first  he  appeared  to  take  me  into 
favor.  I  did,  however,  soon  discover  that  back- 
sheesh  had  its  charms  for  him  as  well  as  for  his 
underlings. 

Equipped  as  I  have  said,  we  began  to  thread  our 
way  into  the  mysterious  depths  of  that  wonderful 
temple  which  has  for  so  many  ages  remained  an 
unsolved  marvel.  Our  Arabs  were  barefooted, 
surefooted,  and  very  careful  and  attentive,  constantly 
warning  us  to  trust  entirely  to  them  in  case  we  felt 
any  fear  or  any  dizziness.  In  a  descending  part 
of  the  principal  passage  we  found  the  stone  pave- 
ment polished  and  slippery,  but  foot-holes  were 
sunk,  so  that  our  progress  was  not  much  impeded. 
Our  dim  lights  disclosed  some  deep,  dark,  and  ap- 
parently dangerous  places,  but  the  guides  were 
constantly  on  the  alert  to  prevent  accident.  The 
air  however,  was  hot  and  oppressive. 

We  finally  reached  the  apartment  known  as  the 
King's  Chamber,  in  the  centre  of  which,  on  an 
enormous  block  of  red  granite,  rests  the  receptacle 
usually  called  the  King's  sarcophagus,  or  the  coffer. 
It  is  of  Sienitic  granite,  now  lidless  and  battered, 
and  I  could  feel  contained  only  a  small  quantity  of 
dust ;  it  could  not,  however,  have  been  the  dust  of 
old  King  Cheops,  for  the  distinguished  Scottish 
scientist,  Piazzi  Smyth,  says  that  preparatory  to 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  305 

taking  his  measures,  in  1865,  he  had  it  "cleaned 
out  and  washed  both  inside  and  outside  with  soap 
and  water."  Nevertheless,  we  read  of  an  Ameri- 
can clerical  enthusiast  who  lately  mounted  into  the 
receptacle,  laid  down,  and  smearing  himself  with 
the  contents  imagined  that  he  was  anointing  with 
the  dust  of  the  ancient  king.  The  sarcophagus, 
as  viewed  by  our  blinking  candles,  more  resembled 
an  old  fashion  horse  watering-trough  than  a  recep- 
tacle for  a  dead  king. 

After  lingering  about  this  chamber  and  the  adja- 
cent parts,  as  long  as  we  desired,  and  gathering  a 
few  fragments  as  remembrances  of  our  visit,  we  com- 
menced the  outward  march.  And  glad  enough 
were  we  to  regain  the  sunlight  and  breathe  the 
fresh  air.  The  temperature  of  the  chamber  is 
stated  to  be  about  seventy  degrees,  excepting  when 
raised  by  the  torches  of  visitors ;  this  is  not  very 
high,  but  the  air  is  "close."  It  was  not  our  pur- 
pose to  make  an  examination  beyond  what  was 
sufficient  to  satisfy  curiosity,  though  my  companion 
was  quite  competent  to  examine  in  scientific  detail. 
It  is  usually  said  that  Belzoni  discovered  the  en- 
trance in  1818.  But  it  is  quite  evident  that  more 
than  two  thousand  years  ago  it  was  entered,  to  some 
extent. 

For  thousands  of  years  travellers  and  antiqua- 
ries have  sought  to  ascertain  the  origin  and  purpose 
of  this  gigantic  erection.  Some  have  concluded 
that  it  was  built  by  the  sons  of  Noah  as  a  place  of 
resort  if  another  deluge  should  occur,  though  it  is 


306  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

difficult  to  see  where  the  workmen  to  do  the  job 
could  have  been  found.  Others  have  assumed  that 
it  existed  before  the  flood.  Many  still  believe  it  to 
have  been  erected  as  the  sepulchre  of  King  Cheops, 
though  it  is  quite  satisfactorily  settled  that  his  body 
was  never  placed  there. 

A  late  writer  has  arrived  at  the  conclusion  that  it 
was  not  the  work  of  the  Egyptians  at  all,  but  that 
descendants  of  Shem,  who  lived  nearer  the  time  of 
Noah  than  the  time  of  Abraham,  erected  it ;  at  all 
events  that  the  builders  were  of  a  far  more  advanced 
race  than  the  Egyptians,  and  came  by  divine  direc- 
tion from  their  native  land,  reared  the  everlasting 
monument,  and  then  returned  to  their  homes.  But 
questions  like  these  beset  this  supposition  :  —  Whence 
came  they?  Did  they  come  as  conquerors  and 
bring  their  immense  train  of  workmen  and  mechan- 
ical appliances  with  them?  Or,  if  peacefully  in- 
clined, would  the  natives  have  allowed  the  work  to 
proceed? 

Able  scientists  have  adhered  to  the  opinion  that 
Cheops  was  reared  for  scientific  purposes,  for  ob- 
servations astronomical,  atmospheric,  and  so  forth. 
And  the  fact  that  all  those  forming  the  Gizeh  group 
face  the  cardinal  points  indicates  that  the  builders 
were  not  destitute  of  scientific  knowledge.  Still 
again  others,  and  among  them  a  very  late,  learned 
and  patient  explorer,  claim  to  have  discovered  in- 
dubitable evidence  that  Cheops  was  erected  by 
divine  dictation;  as  much  so  as  the  ark  of  Noah, 
and  that  down  there  in  its  solitary  chambers  are  to 


NOTES    OF  TRAVEL.  307 

be  found,  recorded  in  the  everlasting  stone,  certain 
fundamental  principles  for  the  governance  of  man 
even  down  to  details  of  common  life.  And  further, 
that  those  dark  recesses  contain  a  treasury  of  sym- 
bols pointing  not  only  to  now  past  events,  but  on- 
ward even  to  the  Second  Advent  of  our  Lord  and 
the  end  of  time ;  that  Cheops  is,  in  short,  a  monu- 
mental directory  for  man's  instruction  and  guidance 
for  all  time  and,  as  much  so,  in  certain  particulars, 
as  Holy  Writ  itself. 

Long  before  written  history,  sacred  or  profane, 
the  great  Pyramid  was  reared.  And  naturally 
enough,  perhaps,  the  reverential  scientist,  who 
believes  he  can  trace  in  its  stellar  pointings  and  in 
its  mystic  measurements  indubitable  evidence  of 
divine  direction,  should  fancy  that  he  can  there 
read  the  world's  history.  And  it  has  come  to  pass 
that  pious  and  learned  inquirers  have  of  late  inter- 
preted the  occult  records  to  declare  that  somewhere 
about  the  present  time  the  Second  Advent  of  our 
Lord  would  take  place  —  in  1881,  as  appeared  most 
probable  —  but  certainly  between  1880  and  1886. 
But  those  years  being  now,  1893,  safely  passed, 
we  may  be  pardoned  for  entertaining  doubts  of  the 
whole  theory  of  divinely  directed  pyramidal  point- 
ings and  records. 

It  is  asserted  that  the  designer  of  the  great  Pyra- 
mid must  have  been  one  of  masterly  acquirement 
and  skill,  and  with  accurate  knowledge  of  the  earth's 
shape,  size  and  motions,  and  that  the  distance  of 
the  sun  could  not  have  been  unknown  to  him. 


308  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

And  it  may  well  be  said  that  notwithstanding  all 
the  theories  that  have  been  proposed,  and  all  the 
doubt  and  ridicule  to  which  those  theories  have 
been  subjected,  it  is  yet  apparent  that  there  are 
some  things  most  wonderful  and  inexplicable  about 
the  fabric.  Numerous  passages  from  the  works  of 
learned  explorers  might  be  given  to  substantiate 
this.  Mr.  Ferguson,  author  of  the  celebrated 
History  of  Architecture,  calls  the  great  Pyramid 
"  the  most  perfect  and  gigantic  specimen  of  masonry 
that  the  world  has  yet  seen."  And  our  own  coun- 
tryman, Mr.  Henry  Mitchell,  chief  hydrographer 
to  the  United  States  Coast  Survey,  who  in  1865 
was  sent  to  report  on  the  progress  of  the  Suez  canal, 
remarks  that  the  great  Pyramid  is  a  monument 
standing  "  in  a  more  important  physical  situation 
than  any  other  building  yet  erected  by  man." 

But  it  is  not  worth  while  to  occupy  space  with 
details  of  the  many  theories  that  have  been  proposed. 
Nor  would  it  be  modest  in  me  to  insist  on  any  opin- 
ion of  my  own.  It  is  easy  for  a  romantic  mind  to 
conceive  some  fanciful  theory,  and  if  the  theorist 
happens  to  be  of  a  religious  turn  he  will  be  very 
likely  to  favor  the  idea  of  divine  direction.  Some  of 
the  most  popular  and,  it  may  be  said,  most  absurd 
ideas  about  the  Pyramids  have  been  propounded  by 
persons  who  have  never  explored  or  even  seen  them  : 
not  that  such  exploration  as  most  could  give  would 
afford  any  certain  light,  but  occasionally  a  ridicu- 
lous error  might  be  avoided.  It  is  not  easy,  how- 
ever, to  convict  of  error  on  points  regarding  which 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  309 

all  are  about  equally  ignorant.  But  I  am  not  fasci- 
nated by  the  supernatural  idea. 

The  inside  measurement  of  the  sarcophagus  in 
the  King's  chamber  is  something  more  than  six  feet 
in  length,  two  feet  in  width  and  three  in  depth. 
There  is  a  ledge  along  the  top,  evidently  intended 
for  the  fitting  in  of  a  lid.  The  dimensions  and 
other  appearances  certainly  indicate  that  it  was  in- 
tended for  the  reception  of  a  body,  and  the  super- 
ficial observer,  at  least,  would  at  once  ask  what  it 
could  have  been  intended  for  if  not  for  that.  It  was 
evidently  the  prevailing  opinion  among  the  ancients 
that  all  the  Pyramids  were  erected  for  sepulchral 
uses.  And  while  our  modern  philosophers  cdncur 
in  the  opinion  that  all  the  others  were  so  designed, 
it  seems  natural  to  ask  why  not  Cheops  also? 

The  Arabs  in  the  vicinity  evidently  believe  the 
great  Pyramid  to  be  a  royal  mausoleum.  It  is  true 
that  the  sarcophagus  is  by  no  means  conclusive  on 
the  point,  for  there  is  not  sufficient  evidence  that 
human  remains  were  found  in  it,  though  the  objec- 
tion based  on  the  circumstance  that  the  entrance 
passage  is  not  sufficiently  wide  to  admit  of  carry- 
ing it  through  is  of  little  moment,  as  it  might  have 
been  placed  there  while  the  building  was  in  pro- 
gress, and  the  body  taken  in  afterwards. 

Before  dismissing  the  question  of  the  age  of  the 
great  Pyramid  it  may  be  remarked  that  it  has  of 
late  been  strenuously  claimed  that  it  tells  its  own 
story,  gives  its  own  age.  It  would  be  wearying  to 
go  into  minute  detail  as  to  the  manner  in  which  it 


3IO  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

does  this,  for  it  is  not  done  in  direct  terms,  and  it  is 
sufficient  to  say  that  the  claim  is,  that  in  its  position 
and  construction  reference  was  had  to  positive  as- 
tronomical facts,  and  those  facts  prove  it  to  have 
been  erected  about  the  year  2170  before  the  Chris- 
tian era.  This  I  think  is  the  conclusion  of  Mr. 
Smyth,  the  astronomer  royal  of  Scotland,  and 
hence  he  makes  the  age  to  be  now  about  4,000 
years.  If  the  astronomical  evidence  is  accepted  it 
is  certain  that  the  builders  were  extraordinarily  pro- 
ficient in  natural  science,  or  that  the  work  was  done 
under  special  divine  direction.  We,  however,  find 
that  great  scientific  lights  differ  here  as  in  most 
other  cases,  for  Mr.  Proctor,  the  famous  English 
astronomer,  shows  by  calculations  and  reasoning, 
satisfactory  at  least  to  himself,  that  sidereal  coinci- 
dences similar  to  those  occurring  2170  years  also 
occurred  3300  years  before  Christ,  which  would 
make  the  age,  instead  of  4000  years,  greater  than 
the  age  of  the  earth  itself,  according  to  the  former 
by  accepted  chronology. 

But  time  would  be  almost  wasted  in  attempting 
further  examination  on  these  points.  And  the  only 
satisfactory  conclusion  seems  to  be  that  the  world 
does  not  now,  and  probably  never  will  know  when, 
by  whom,  or  for  what  purpose  the  great  Pyramid 
was  reared.  Says  the  poet :  — 

"I  asked  of  Time,  'To  whom  arose  this  high  Majestic  pile  ? '  .  .  . 

He  answered  not  .  .  . 

To  Fame  I  turned  .  .  . 

She  heaved  a  sigh,  as  one  to  grief  a  prey. 

And  silent  downward  cast  her  mournful  eye. 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  31 1 

I  saw  Oblivion  stalk  from  stone  to  stone ; 
'Dread  power,'  I  cried,  'tell  me  whose  vast  design'  — 
He  checked  my  further  speech,  in  sullen  tone ; 
'Whose  once  it  was,  I  care  not;  #0a/'tis  mine.'" 

The  Pyramids  are  not  mentioned  by  name  in  our 
version  of  the  Bible,  which  is  a  little  remarkable, 
for  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  they  were  a  wonder 
of  the  world  in  old  Bible  times ;  but  those  who  are 
fond  of  interpreting  Holy  Writ  in  a  way  to  accord 
with  their  preconceived  views,  or  with  some  favorite 
theory,  find  various  passages  that  they  claim  allude 
to  them ;  for  instance,  they  tell  us  that  in  the  ipth 
verse  of  the  i9th  chapter  of  Isaiah,  the  words 
"  altar"  and  "pillar"  had  better  have  been  trans- 
lated pyramid. 

Some  of  the  most  interesting  Bible  scenes  must 
have  been  enacted  in  the  immediate  vicinity.  Abra- 
ham, Moses  and  Aaron  must  have  often  been  in 
sight  of  them.  The  stripling  Joseph,  as  he  was 
brought  on  by  the  Ishmaelites  after  their  pur- 
chase of  him  from  his  brethren,  must  have  passed 
near  them.  Cheops  overlooks  the  very  spot  where, 
it  is  alleged,  Joseph  and  Mary,  with  the  child  Jesus, 
paused  for  rest  when  fleeing  from  their  own  land 
to  avoid  the  murderous  edict  of  Herod.  In  the 
plague  of  darkness  they  must  have  loomed  up  like 
murky  spectres,  and  the  "  very  grievous  hail  "must 
have  rattled  powerless  against  their  sturdy  sides, 
unless,  being  in  the  Land  of  Goshen,  they  were 
exempt.  —  (Exodus  9  :  26.) 

"All  things  dread   time ;  but  time  itself  dreads 


312  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

the  Pyramids,"  is  an  Oriental  saying.  Time,  how- 
ever, though  it  could  not  destroy  has  roughly  treated 
them,  or  rather  men's  hands  have  done  the  vandal 
work.  They  now  appear  like  huge  rough  masses 
of  gray  stone,  but  wrought  in  a  masterly  manner 
and  admirably  laid.  It  is,  however,  entirely  cer- 
tain if  the  statements  of  Hero'dotus  are  to  be  credited, 
that  they  were  once  cased  with  polished  stone, 
covered  with  writing  decipherable  by  learned  ones 
3000  years  ago.  Some  of  these  beautiful  casings 
are  declared  to  now  exist  in  the  walls  of  old  mosques 
in  Cairo,  they  having  been  taken  in  the  early  days 
of  Mohammedanism  for  use  in  the  construction  of 
the  sacred  edifices. 

Herodotus,  the  Greek  historian,  who  flourished 
nearly  five  hundred  years  before  the  Christian  era, 
and  has  been  called  the  father  of  history,  visited 
the  Pyramids  and  took  great  pains  to  examine  them 
in  detail.  He  has  left  an  account,  in  which  he 
asserts,  among  other  particulars,  that  in  the  build- 
ing of  Cheops  100,000  men  were  employed  twenty 
years.  Strabo,  who  lived  in  the  time  of  our  Sav- 
iour, also  gives  an  account  of  them.  And  both 
these  writers  state  the  height  of  Cheops  to  be  much 
greater  than  it  is  now  found  to  be.  Herodotus 
states  it  to  be  800  feet  and  Strabo  625. 

The  present  height  of  Cheops  is  a  little  short  of 
500  feet.  But  differences  as  to  measurement  may 
be  accounted  for  by  the  fact  that  from  time  to  time 
tons  of  stone  have  been  taken  to  be  used  in  the 
buildings  of  Cairo  and  adjacent  places.  The  sand 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  313 

has  so  accumulated  at  the  base  as  to  apparently 
much  reduce  the  height.  It  is  believed  to  have 
originally  gone  up  to  a  point,  but  now  there  is  at 
the  top  a  platform  something  rising  thirty  feet 
square,  large  enough,  as  the  Arabs  say,  for  eleven 
camels  to  lie  down.  And  probably  any  camel  that 
got  up  there  would  be  prepared  to  lie  down,  never 
to  rise  again. 

The  extent  of  ground  covered  by  the  great  Pyra- 
mid is  between  twelve  and  thirteen  acres ;  and 
some  conception  of  its  magnitude  may  be  had  by 
supposing  a  stone  structure  covering  that  space  and 
rising  to  the  great  height  of  fifty  stories,  or,  as 
Herodotus  has  it,  eighty  stories.  The  Washington 
monument  is  555  feet  high,  but  it  is  a  single  shaft. 
And  when  the  good-natured  Sheik  told  me  that  he 
had  heard  that  the  people  of  America  were  trying 
to  build  something  that  would  overtop  his  proud 
old  pile,  I  had  some  misgiving,  as  with  a  significant 
tap  on  the  shoulder  I  assured  him  that  we  were  in 
a  way  to  have  a  monument  that  his  chiselled  moun- 
tain would  have  to  stretch  its  neck  to  overlook. 

An  Arab  physician  of  the  twelfth  century,  in 
speaking  of  the  inscriptions  on  the  polished  casing 
stones,  says  they  were  so  multitudinous  that  if  those 
on  only  two  of  the  pyramids  were  copied,  more 
than  ten  thousand  books  would  be  filled.  He  like- 
wise speaks  admiringly  of  the  skill  with  which  the 
casing  stones  were  laid,  saying  that  their  adjust- 
ment was  so  perfect  that  not  even  a  needle  or  hair 
could  be  inserted  between  any  two.  There  is  an 


314  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

Arab  tradition  that  there  appeared  on  one  of  the 
casing  stones  this  suggestive  annunciation  of  the 
architect —  "  I  have  built,  and  whoever  considers 
himself  powerful  may  try  to  destroy.  Let  him, 
however,  reflect  that  to  destroy  is  easier  than  to 
build." 

As  to  the  weight  of  stone  in  the  great  Pyramid, 
curious  estimates  have  been  made  in  different  ages. 
One  old  philosopher  skilled  in  mathematics  places 
the  amount  at  6,300,000  tons.  And  it  has  of  late 
been  claimed  that  in  the  structure  itself  there  is  a 
record  of  its  own  weight,  as  well  as  age,  a  record 
which  places  it  at  5,273,834  tons.  If  it  is  satis- 
factorily proved  that  this  record  really  exists  we 
have  something  reliable. 

The  total  weight  of  stone  used  in  the  construc- 
tion of  our  Washington  Monument  is  stated  to  be 
81,120  tons;  which  is,  in  round  numbers,  about 
one  sixty-sixth  of  the  amount  used  in  the  Pyramid. 
Here  we  have  the  data  for  a  comparison  compre- 
hensive and  to  a  degree  authoritative.  So  let  us 
conceive,  if  we  can,  of  a  monumental  erection 
equal  to  sixty-six  of  the  Washington  Monument. 
If  all  the  stones  of  the  Pyramid  were  carried  up  in 
a  shaft  like  that  of  the  monument,  it  would  rise  to 
a  height  of  some  34,000  feet  instead  of  555,  the 
height  of  the  monument. 

The  cost  of  the  Washington  Monument  is  stated 
at  $1,187,710;  but  what  the  cost  of  the  Pyramid 
was  will  never  be  known,  unless  some  modern 
keen-eyed  explorer  shall  find  in  it  a  record  of  its 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  315 

cost  as  well  as  its  age  and  weight.  We  cannot 
know  whether  the  laborers  were  volunteers,  slaves, 
or  wage  workers.  But  those  who  are  curious  in 
such  matters  may  make  a  calculation  as  to  what  it 
would  cost  here  in  our  own  country,  and  at  the 
present  time,  to  build  a  pyramid  of  the  dimensions 
of  Cheops.  We  may  not  know  how  smart  the  old 
workmen  were,  or  under  what  advantages  or  dis- 
advantages they  labored,  though  it  may  be  sup- 
posed that  the  overseers  and  taskmasters  kept  them 
busy  and  required  full  hours,  and  they  probably  had 
few  if  any  "  strikes." 

Taking  the  statement  of  Herodotus  as  to  the 
number  of  workmen  and  the  time  employed,  and 
assigning  to  each  $i  per  day,  we  should  find  the 
total  for  workmen  to  be  $730,000,000.  And  by 
adding  to  that  an  equal  amount  for  materials,  engi- 
neering and  other  expenses,  we  should  find  the  cost 
of  Cheops  to  be  about  $1,460,000,000.  Calcula- 
tions like  these  may  not  be  of  special  value  to  any 
one  who  has  no  expectation  of  figuring  for  a  con- 
tract at  pyramid  building,  but  may  amuse  the 
curious.  It  seems  to  have  been  admitted  in  all  ages 
that  the  architect  who  planned  and  supervised  the 
building  of  the  great  Pyramid  was  one  of  marvellous 
accomplishments.  This  is  shown,  among  other 
things,  by  the  fact  that  the  exterior  is  of  sand  stone, 
not  hard  enough  to  become  brittle  and  peel  off,  nor 
liable  to  be  disintegrated  and  crumble  away  in  such  a 
climate  as  that  of  Egypt,  while  for  the  interior,  where 
there  is  no  exposure  to  the  sun,  and  the  tempera- 


316  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

ture  is  essentially  the  same  age  after  age,  granite 
is  used.     The  color  of  the  exterior  stone  is  lightish 

gray- 
Some  have  imagined  that  the  Pyramids  were  not 
built  of  real  stone,  but  of  some  sort  of  concrete, 
because,  as  they  assert,  it  would  have  been  impossi- 
ble to  raise  such  enormous  blocks  to  their  places 
by  any  mechanical  power  now  known.  But  among 
the  "lost  arts"  may  have  been  that  very  power. 
I  am  quite  sure  that  no  one  who  ever  saw  the  blocks 
would  doubt  that  they  are  of  real  solid  stone.  And 
besides,  it  must  have  been  a  wonderful  kind  of  con- 
crete to  have  preserved  its  integrity  for  four  thousand 
years.  And,  still  further,  there  yet  remain  in  the 
vicinity  immense  quantities  of  waste  stone  and  stone 
fragments  evidently  chipped  off  by  the  workmen 
in  adjusting  the  blocks  —  such  quantities  as  to  con- 
siderably increase  the  size  of  the  rocky  plateau  on 
the  side  where  they  were  dumped ;  and  though  the 
sands  of  ages  have  been  drifting  over  them,  they 
may  yet  be  readily  exhumed. 

Of  all  the  Seven  Wonders  of  the  world  which 
for  ages  remained  the  boast  of  the  nations,  the 
Great  Pyramid,  the  greatest  of  the  Seven,  only  re- 
mains. And  may  it  stand  for  ages  yet  to  come, 
indisputable  evidence  of  the  genius  and  skill  of  man 
in  his  earlier  years  ! 

"  Enduring  pile !    thou  art  the  link  that  binds 
The  memories  of  reflective  minds  — 
Vast  mass  of  monumental  rock  sublime, 
That  to  the  present  Age  dost  join  the  Youth  of  Time." 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  317 

There  are  about  forty  pyramids  in  Egypt;  but 
the  Gizeh  group  of  three,  in  the  vicinity  of  Cairo, 
are  usually  spoken  of  as  the  Pyramids.  And  of 
these,  Cheops,  the  one  into  which  I  descended,  is 
that  called  the  Great  Pyramid,  and  was  the  crown- 
ing glory  of  the  necropolis  of  ancient  Memphis. 

THE    SPHINX. 

After  leaving  the  Pyramids,  the  Sheik  volunteered 
to  go  with  us  to  the  Sphinx,  which  rears  its  strangely 
attractive  visage  a  few  hundred  feet  away.  Great 
doubt  formerly  existed  as  to  the  age  of  this  wonder- 
ful specimen  of  the  sculptor's  art.  Some  declared 
that  it  must  have  stood  there  before  the  foundation 
stones  of  the  great  Pyramid  were  laid,  while  others 
supposed  it  to  be  a  work  of  a  later  period.  But  it 
seems  from  the  more  recent  discoveries  and  deduc- 
tions that  the  two  must  be  referred  to  about  the  same 
period  ;  a  period  that  will,  undoubtedly,  forever  re- 
main undetermined. 

To  me  there  seemed  nothing  disagreeable  in  the 
now  time-marked  features ;  on  the  contrary,  they 
were  rather  prepossessing.  But  the  loss  of  the 
nose,  of  course,  very  much  damages  the  general 
effect  of  the  facial  lines.  Whoever  the  directing 
sculptor  was,  he  undoubtedly  had  a  rare  conception 
of  the  true  dignity  and  beauty  of  the  human  face. 

While  in  that  grim  presence,  I  was  seized  with 
an  irresistible  desire  to  become  possessor  of  some 
little  bit  as  a  memorial  of  my  visit.  While  endeavor- 
ing to  loosen  a  scrap,  the  Sheik  saw  what  I  was 


3l8  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

trying  to  do,  came  up,  and  instead  of  pushing  me 
away,  as  he  would  have  been  justified  in  doing, 
readily  assisted  me  in  getting  all  I  wanted.  But 
the  example  was  a  bad  one  and  I  hope  will  not  be 
followed.  The  Pyramids  themselves  would  in  time 
disappear  if  the  countless  numbers  of  those  who 
visit  them  were  all  relic-hunters.  From  some  un- 
explainable  cause,  as  before  remarked,  I  fancied 
that  I  had  found  special  favor  in  the  eye  of  the 
Sheik. 

I  cannot  say  what  the  precise  nature  of  the  Sheik's 
authority  is,  or  how  far  his  jurisdiction  extends,  but 
suppose  his  claims  are  based  on  some  tribal  rights 
of  a  feudal  nature.  His  authority  seems  to  be  un- 
questioned, and  he  appears  ready  to  hold  himself 
responsible  to  travelers  for  the  faithful  conduct  of 
those  whom  he  assigns  for  their  service.  He  is  a 
man  quite  up  to  the  ordinary  size,  well  proportioned, 
has  a  pleasant  cast  of  countenance,  frequently 
lighted  up  with  a  genial  smile,  has  bright  eyes  and 
white  teeth,  is  verging  on  old  age,  dresses  well, 
and  on  the  whole  favorably  impresses  strangers. 
He  was  dressed  in  the  oriental  style,  and  knew 
enough  English  to  understand  and  be  understood. 

From  the  sandy  height  on  which  the  Pyramids 
and  the  Sphinx  stand,  the  Nile  and  its  luxuriant 
border  of  green  may  for  miles  be  discerned  ;  Cairo, 
too,  and  the  desert  heights  beyond. 

While  scrambling  along  the  almost  suffocating 
interior  passage  of  the  Pyramid,  there  were  other 
reflections  than  the  sentimental  to  occupy  the  mind, 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  319 

else,  we  might  have  reflected  that  along  the  same 
dim  and  dangerous  way,  princes  and  warriors, 
historians  and  philosophers,  have  groped  in  long 
and  somber  procession.  And  while  gazing  upon 
the  exterior,  we  might  have  reflected  that  for  forty 
centuries  the  wondering  eyes  of  the  world  have 
been  directed  upward  to  its  giant  proportions,  as  well 
as  that,  from  its  breezy  height  the  eye  of  forty  cen- 
turies has  looked  downward  upon  a  struggling 
world. 

CITADEL    OF    CAIRO. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  same  day,  with  the  young 
gentleman  teacher,  I  took  a  donkey  ride  to  the 
Citadel  of  Cairo.  These  donkeys  are  diminutive 
animals,  but  docile  and  wonderfully  strong.  All 
classes  ride  on  them,  and  there  are  such  multitudes 
standing  about,  "  all  saddled  and  bridled,"  that  one 
can  be  obtained  at  any  moment.  They  indeed  sup- 
ply the  place  of  street  cars. 

The  Citadel  is  one  of  the  chief  attractions  for 
the  traveler.  From  it  a  very  comprehensive  view 
of  the  city  may  be  had.  The  graceful  minarets 
that  rise  in  every  quarter  —  four  hundred,  it  is 
claimed — the  numerous  domes,  large  and  small, 
that  add  so  much  to  the  dignity  of  Moslem  architec- 
ture, and  the  many  stately  edifices  in  all  varieties 
of  oriental  and  European  style,  attract  the  eye. 
Glimpses  of  the  venerable  river  may  be  here  and 
there  had,  and  the  gray  old  Pyramids  loom  up  in 
the  distance.  And  far  away,  upon  either  hand,  is 


32O  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

the  yellow  outline  of  the  desert  sands  that  bound 
the  verdant  valley  of  the  Nile. 

At  the  Citadel  is  the  noble  Mosque  of  Mehemet  Ali, 
one  of  the  finest  in  the  Moslem  world,  its  two  tall  and 
chaste  minarets,  with  the  stately  dome  between,  be- 
being  distinguishable  from  a  great  distance.  It  is  of 
white  marble,  with  colonnades  of  alabaster.  Around 
the  exterior  runs  a  broad  line  in  large  Arabic  charac- 
ters, recording  I  suppose  passages  from  the  Koran. 

Near  the  principal  entrance  we  found  some  half- 
dozen  venerable-looking  devotees  seated  upon  the 
pavement,  to  whom  we  signified  our  desire  to  see 
the  interior,  whereupon  one  of  them  readily  took 
us  in  charge.  Before  entering  the  hallowed  courts 
we  were  required  to  encase  our  feet,  shoes  and  all, 
in  large  red  moccasin-like  slippers,  which  were 
put  on  and  carefully  tied  about  the  ankles  by  the 
attendant.  So  equipped  we  entered  and  found 
ourselves  in  a  truly  noble  edifice,  beautiful  in  its 
rich  simplicity  and  freedom  from  ostentatious  dis- 
play. The  polished  marbles  of  the  floor,  the  ala- 
baster columns  and  casings,  the  wide  circles  of 
lamps,  the  beautifully-colored  walls  and  stained 
windows,  were  all  worthy  of  admiration.  And 
looking  upward  from  the  center,  there  being  no 
seats,  it  seemed  as  if  the  dome  were  as  lofty  and 
the  proportions  as  graceful  as  those  of  St.  Paul's 
in  London.  In  one  corner,  protected  by  a  high 
railing  of  gilt  iron,  is  the  stately  tomb  of  Mehemet 
Ali,  before  which  even  now  many  a  devout  Moslem 
pauses  for  meditation. 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  321 

It  is  generally  supposed  by  travelers  that  the  re- 
quirements as  to  the  coverings  of  Christian  feet, 
before  entering  a  Mosque,  arise  from  fear  of  dese- 
crating the  sanctity  of  the  holy  places,  but  I  am 
inclined  to  the  opinion  that  it  is  not  so  much  a  fear 
of  desecrating  the  sanctity  as  a  fear  of  soiling  the 
beautiful  rugs  and  polished  pavements. 

While  lingering  in  the  Citadel,  naturally  enough 
a  crowd  of  harrowing  thoughts  pressed  upon  the 
mind.  Right  there  where  we  then  stood,  on  that 
rueful  first  of  March,  1811,  was  the  slaughter  of 
the  Mamelukes  accomplished.  It  need  not  be  re- 
peated that  they  had  been  summoned  —  decoyed  is 
a  better  word  —  by  the  great  captain  Mehemet  Ali, 
to  partake  of  a  feast.  The  banquet  ended,  and  the 
guests  prepared  to  mount  their  steeds  and  depart ; 
when  lo,  the  ponderous  gates  were  found  closed 
and  all  means  of  egress  prevented.  They  were 
entrapped  and  in  an  unyielding  prison.  And  then, 
before  they  had  time  to  ask  what  such  strange  pro- 
ceedings meant,  the  work  of  death  commenced 
upon  them.  But  one  of  the  whole  1600  escaped 
the  slaughter,  and  he  by  the  wondrous  leap  of  his 
noble  horse  over  the  rocky  height,  losing  his  own 
life  in  saving  that  of  his  master.  Emin  Bey  was 
the  only  one  of  the  Mamelukes  who  escaped. 

A  while  after  as  Mehemet  Ali  was  sitting  in 
public  to  receive  the  petitions  of  those  who  sought 
his  favor,  there  came,  forcing  a  way  through  the 
motley  assembly,  a  person  in  the  rather  forlorn 
apparel  of  an  Arab  woman,  who,  on  reaching  the 
21 


322  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

divan  whereon  the  arbitrator  sat,  knelt,  gave  the 
oriental  salute,  and  then  arising  let  drop  the  dis- 
guise, and  revealed  the  form  of  Emin  Bey,  the 
escaped  Mameluke.  What  the  feelings  of  Mehemet 
Ali  were  on  perceiving  that  unheralded  apparition 
cannot  be  known  ;  but  he  does  not  appear  to  have 
had  any  fears  or  any  resentment.  Indeed  he  seems 
to  have  been  fortified  by  a  sort  of  satisfaction  that 
he  had  done  his  duty.  Nor  does  it  appear  that 
Emin  Bey  entertained  the  bitter  feeling  that  might 
have  been  expected.  A  truce  seems  at  once  to  have 
been  established.  The  one  bestowed  riches  and 
honors  and  the  other  accepted  the  same  unhesi- 
tatingly. Such  is  Moslem  character. 

The  moving  inducement  for  the  destruction  of 
the  Mamelukes  seems  to  have  been,  at  least  in  the 
mind  of  Mehemet  Ali.  their  pertinacious  opposition 
to  his  efforts  to  relieve  the  Egyptian  people  from 
the  heavy  burdens  they  had  so  long  been  fated  to 
bear.  He  was  what  we  of  this  day  call  a  progres- 
sive ruler ;  one  desirous  of  raising  the  people  to  a 
higher  level ;  while  the  Mamelukes  were  inclined 
to  keep  things  much  as  they  were.  He  was  by  no 
means  devoid  of  ambition  and  inspired  many  with 
the  belief  that,  as  success  attended  him,  he  would 
go  on  step  by  step  to  the  most  arbitrary  assumptions. 
The  violent  way  of  accomplishing  his  purpose  was 
probably  the  most  effectual  that  commended  itself 
to  his  barbaric  mind. 

Standing  within  the  stately  Mosque  there  at  the 
Citadel,  and  viewing  the  mausoleum  where  rest  the 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  323 

remains  of  Mehemet  AH,  at  whose  command  the 
bloody  work  was  done,  the  thought  occurred  that 
more  than  one  such  magnificent  erection  would  be 
required  to  atone  for  that  horrid  massacre.  He 
died  in  1849,  at  tne  aSe  °^  eighty-one. 

Leaving  the  Mosque  we  remounted  our  donkeys 
and  rode  down  from  the  Citadel,  pausing  a  moment 
to  look  upon  the  white  monuments  that  marked  the 
graves  of  the  sacrificed  Mamelukes,  the  setting  sun 
shedding  a  serene  light  upon  the  green  expanse  in 
which  they  stood. 

The  Citadel  of  Cairo  dates  back  to  the  twelfth 
century  and  was  built  by  the  renowned  Saladin, 
whose  warlike  arm  so  frequently  and  so  heavily  fell 
on  the  armies  of  Christendom  during  the  crusade, 
his  great  antagonist  being  Coeur  de  Lion. 

It  was  about  dusk  when  we  regained  the  crowded 
streets  of  the  city.  I  was  not  so  expert  a  rider  as 
my  companion,  who  trotted  on  in  a  manner  enviable 
for  its  gracefulness,  and  his  donkey  seemed  proud 
of  his  burden.  But  somehow  or  other  my  beast 
and  I  had  continual  disagreements  as  to  the  rate  of 
speed  and  course.  True,  our  disagreements  did 
not  break  out  into  oral  dispute,  as  was  the  case  with 
Balaam  and  his  four-footed  friend,  for  I  was  prudent 
enough  to  make  no  hasty  threats.  But  I  could  not 
help  fancying,  now  and  then,  by  the  way  he  shook 
his  head  and  worked  his  ears,  that  he  might  be  con- 
sidering whether  he  or  the  one  upon  his  back  were 
the  greater  donkey.  However,  on  we  -went,  the 
owner,  as  is  common  in  such  cases,  running  by  our 


324  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

side,  and  shouting  to  the  people  to  clear  the  way  as 
if  a  Pasha  or  John  Gilpin  were  on  the  road.  But 
after  all,  we  had  the  mortification  to  find  that  we 
created  very  little  sensation,  a  fact  for  which  I 
found  comfort  in  the  well-known  immobility  of 
Moslem  temperament. 

The  architecture  of  old  Cairo  is  Arabian,  the 
latticed  windows  often  overhanging  the  narrow 
streets,  many  of  them  so  narrow  that  it  is  incon- 
venient for  more  than  two  people  to  walk  abreast ; 
the  buildings  are  of  stone  and  tall.  There  is  not 
much  exterior  ornament  about  them,  but  the  interiors 
for  the  most  part  are  richly  furnished  and  well 
adapted  to  the  mode  of  living. 

Living  in  Cairo  is  not  so  cheap  as  in  some  other 
parts  of  the  East,  though  it  is  not  so  dear  as  in 
America.  It  may  perhaps  with  truth  be  said  that 
our  country  is  the  dearest  in  the  civilized  world  ; 
but  then,  to  counterbalance,  the  earnings  are  some- 
what in  proportion.  For  my  hotel  accommodations 
in  Cairo,  which  included  everything  commonly 
coming  under  the  head  of  board  and  lodging,  and 
I  must  say  all  was  very  good,  I  paid  about  two  dol- 
lars per  day.  Ten  francs  was  what  they  called  it. 
But  it  is  difficult,  sometimes,  to  tell  how  much  one 
really  does  pay  for  a  thing,  there  is  such  a  variety 
of  currency.  When  I  settled  my  bill,  I  took  in 
change  English,  French,  Austrian,  Spanish,  Greek 
and  Egyptian  coin,  and  when  attempting  to  pass 
some  of  it  found  a  good  deal  of  doubt  as  to  its  rela- 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  325 

tive  value.  The  worth  of  English  gold,  however, 
is  well  understood,  and  it  is  exceedingly  attractive 
to  the  people.  Even  the  Sheik  at  the  Pyramids 
asked  if  we  had  not  a  piece  or  two  to  give  him  for 
other  money. 

And  this  leads  to  a  word  about  the  money  chang- 
ers of  the  East.  One  sees  about  the  streets  their 
table-stands,  much  resembling  the  peanut  boards  of 
our  country,  with  little  heaps  of  coin  instead  of 
fruit.  These  "curbstone  brokers"  do  an  active 
business  in  changing  the  different  kinds  of  money. 
But  I  sometimes  wondered  if  the  exposed  condition 
of  their  tables  did  not  lead  to  losses  greater  than 
the  profits  by  snatch-thieves.  On  one  occasion  I 
wanted  to  change  a  piece  and  went  to  a  stand  near  a 
corner  where  multitudes  were  constantly  passing. 
The  keeper  was  absent,  and  I  had  to  wait  a  little 
while  for  him  to  return.  He  might  have  kept  an 
eye  on  his  treasure,  though  I  did  not  see  how  he 
could  have  caught  a  thief  had  he  seen  one.  Either 
the  proprietor  had  unbounded  faith  in  the  honesty 
of  the  people  or  the  people  had  a  wholesome  fear 
of  the  consequences  of  stealing  —  perhaps  both. 

One  of  the  most  noticeable  things  in  these  East- 
ern countries  is  the  absence  of  females,  in  the 
streets,  in  the  cars,  in  all  public  places.  A  few 
European  ladies  are  met,  but  the  natives  are  so 
seldom  seen  as  to  be  almost  regarded  as  curiosities. 
Their  absence  from  all  public  places  of  amusement 
gives  an  air  of  dulness  to  what  might  otherwise 
prove  spirited  and  attractive.  The  opera  and  theatre 


326  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

languish  notwithstanding  the  fostering  care  of  govern- 
ment. 

While  at  the  Pyramids  we  had  an  opportunity  to 
purchase  old  coins  and  other  relics  in  as  large  num- 
hers  as  desired,  for  the  Arabs  were  eager  to  sell  at 
trifling  prices.  But  I  felt  so  doubtful  of  their  being 
genuine,  and  my  credulity  was  so  strengthened  by 
the  opinion  of  my  companion,  the  teacher,  that  I 
only  took  one  or  two,  though  the  Arabs  earnestly 
and  with  apparent  honesty  asserted  that  they  were 
genuine.  I  thought  my  little  purchase  would  do 
very  well  as  a  reminder  of  my  visit,  if  for  nothing 
else.  But  at  the  dinner  table  in  Cairo,  that  even- 
ing, there  sat  opposite  us  a  Greek  professor  who  is 
considered  high  authority  in  all  matters  pertaining 
to  Egyptology.  My  companion  was  acquainted 
with  him  and,  handing  him  one  of  the  coins,  asked 
his  opinion.  He  examined  it  carefully  and  pro- 
nounced it  a  genuine  piece,  of  the  time,  I  think  he 
said,  of  Cleopatra. 

.Then  we  were  sorry  that  our  ignorance  and  in- 
credulity had  prevented  our  obtaining  a  larger  num- 
ber. My  experience  with  the  coinmongers  at  Malta 
had  tended  to  make  me  over-cautious,  perhaps ;  as 
it  is  no  doubt  true  that  immense  quantities  of  spuri- 
ous "  antiquities "  are  manufactured  in  England 
and  sent  out  to  be  disposed  of  in  these  countries. 
The  Arabs  had  some  other  very  curious  relics  which 
they  with  the  same  earnestness  declared  were  genu- 
ine, but  for  which  we  declined  to  give  the  trifle 
asked.  The  fact  however  is  there  are  great  num- 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  327 

bers  of  ancient  coins  and  other  small  relics  found 
by  the  Arabs  as  they  delve  among  the  ruins  and 
mouse  in  the  dust  of  the  tombs.  Some  are  found 
by  children.  The  finders  care  nothing  for  them  as 
antiquities,  and  only  value  them  for  what  they  will 
purchase.  In  common  traffic  they  will  not  pass  at 
all,  and  whatever  a  stranger  will  give  is  clear  gain. 
Incredulity  in  these  matters  perhaps  leads  to  error 
as  often  as  credulity. 

The  very  poor  in  Egypt,  those  who  burrow  in  the 
mud  hovels,  live  miserably  enough.  A  handful  of 
dates,  a  little  sugar-cane  to  chew,  and  one  or  two 
oranges,  often  make  a  meal.  They  cannot  have 
much  of  what  we  call  home  comfort,  but  yet  they 
generally  have  a  healthy  look,  and  the  children 
seem  bright  and  active.  The  camels  and  donkeys 
appear  to  be  the  hardest  workers,  though  men, 
sometimes  women  and  children,  maybe  seen  in  the 
field  slowly  delving  with  their  primitive  implements. 
But  little  of  the  thrift,  tidiness  and  activity,  such  as 
is  seen  in  our  country,  is  perceptible.  They  have 
so  long  suffered  under  every  kind  of  oppression 
that  they  have  become  disheartened  almost  to  the 
verge  of  despair.  And  I  could  not  help  thinking, 
as  I  saw  the  forlorn  condition  of  many  of  them, 
that  if  the  Israelites  during  their  captivity  in  this 
same  naturally  beautiful  country  were  subjected  to 
such  hardships,  they  were  not  so  much  to  blame, 
when  the  day  of  departure  came,  for  endeavoring 
to  square  accounts,  in  a  measure,  with  their  task- 
masters and  taskmistresses,  by  despoiling  them  of 


328  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

their  ornaments  of  gold  under  pretense  of  borrow- 
ing, the  only  way  in  which  they  could  get  posses- 
sion. 

Travelers  have  much  to  say  about  what  they  are 
pleased  to  call  the  universal  disposition  to  cheat 
manifested  by  the  traders  of  the  Orient.  But  they 
evidently  mistake  custom  for  principle.  Their 
"  theory"  of  traffic  is  different  from  ours,  but  not 
necessarily  more  fraudulent.  The  "one  price" 
system  is  not  known  to  them.  They  get  as  much 
profit  as  they  can  on  an  article ;  just  as  we  do  in 
real  estate.  We  buy  a  piece  of  land  and  consider 
it  all  right  to  sell  at  the  greatest  advance  we  can 
get.  That  is  all  they  do.  At  first  I  was  over- 
cautious in  bargaining  for  such  little  things  as  I 
happened  to  want,  but  after  a  short  time  had  no 
trouble.  My  way  was  to  ask  the  price  of  an  arti- 
cle, and  when  it  was  stated,  offer  not  more  than 
half  the  sum  named.  Occasionally  I  would  be 
met  with  the  reply  that  it  cost  more,  in  which  case 
a  little  advance  would  be  necessary  ;  but  in  hardly 
any  instance  did  I  pay  more  than  half  the  price 
first  stated.  The  shop-keeper  will  give  a  price  and 
then  leave  it  for  the  customer  to  make  an  offer. 
As  I  said,  we  do  about  the  same  thing  in  real  estate 
transactions;  but  they  carry  the  principle  into 
minute  matters  where  it  sometimes  becomes  almost 
amusing.  A  newsboy  came  into  the  car  at  Cairo 
with  the  morning  papers,  and  I  thought  I  would 
purchase  one  as  a  curiosity,  not  expecting  to  be 
much  edified  by  the  perusal,  as  it  was  printed  in 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  329 

Arabic.  I  took  the  smallest  coin  I  had  to  offer  in 
payment,  when  a  gentleman  sitting  near  and  seeing 
what  I  was  about  to  do,  signified  that  it  would  be 
too  much.  He  took  my  coin  and  handed  me  two 
smaller  ones,  giving  me  to  understand  that  one 
was  sufficient  for  the  paper.  I  gave  one  to  the  boy 
and  he  seemed  satisfied,  but,  as  if  on  second 
thought,  held  out  his  hand  for  the  other ;  where- 
upon my  intercessor  made  such  a  demonstration 
that  the  young  jockey  suddenly  disappeared.  I  do 
not,  however,  suppose  the  boy  thought  of  cheating 
while  getting  the  most  he  could  for  his  paper.  It 
must  be  admitted,  at  least  so  far  as  strangers  are 
concerned,  that  this  mode  of  trading  is  annoying, 
but  it  is  not  necessarily  a  fraudulent  system,  any 
more  than  the  class  of  our  transactions  alluded  to. 

I  am  gratified  in  being  able  to  say  that  in  all  my 
wanderings  in  the  East,  I  have  uniformly  met  with 
the  most  courteous  treatment  by  the  people,  whether 
in  bazaars,  the  streets,  or  public  conveyances. 
Possibly  my  gray  hairs  may  have  had  some  influ- 
ence here.  I  can  call  to  mind  numerous  instances 
which  flatly  contradict  the  oft-repeated  tale  of  trav- 
elers that  to  the  Moslem  a  Christian  is  an  object  of 
contempt.  I  saw  nothing  of  the  kind  and  might 
relate  many  little  facts  to  show  the  contrary. 
I  recollect  that  in  the  railroad  car  on  the  passage 
from  Cairo  to  Alexandria  there  sat  near  me  an  el- 
derly man,  a  Turk  or  Egyptian,  as  I  judged  from 
his  dress,  or  at  least  a  Moslem,  of  very  respectable 
appearance,  accompanied  by  his  son  of  eighteen 


33°  LEGACY   OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

or  twenty  years.  At  noon  they  spread  out  their 
repast  on  a  vacant  seat,  a  proceeding  very  common 
thereabout,  and  at  once  invited  me  to  partake  with 
them.  I  was  not  hungry,  but  took  a  piece  of 
bread  as  I  wished  to  taste  it,  having  seen  so  much 
of  the  same  kind  for  sale  about  the  streets.  They 
seemed  gratified  and  urged  upon  me  an  orange  or 
two.  They  left  the  car  at  one  of  the  large  towns 
and  on  alighting  the  old  gentleman  gave  me  the 
Oriental  good-bye  salute,  and  the  son,  who  had 
evidently  seen  something  of  European  customs, 
shook  me  warmly  by  the  hand. 

The  indiscreet  liberality  of  some  of  our  wealthy 
countrymen  who  visit  foreign  lands  occasionally 
works  mischief  for  us  tourists  of  the  other  sort,  as 
it  is  often  inconvenient  for  one  to  be  thought  richer 
than  he  really  is  —  though  possibly  there  is  as  much 
inconvenience  in  being  thought  poorer.  The  prod- 
igality alluded  to  has  given  rise  to  the  very  general 
impression  that  all  Americans  are  rich ;  and  on 
account  of  that  impression  no  doubt  some,  who  can 
ill  afford  to  be  more  than  simply  just  in  their  dis- 
bursements, are  made  to  bear  the  imputation  of 
meanness.  As  I  was  passing  through  one  of  the 
Cairo  bazaars,  and  paused  at  a  stall  to  examine 
some  articles,  the  keeper,  who  was  sitting  with  his 
legs  coiled  like  a  tailor  at  work  upon  his  bench,  in 
imperfect  English  invited  me  to  seat  myself  beside 
him  for  a  talk.  I  accepted  his  invitation,  and  imi- 
tating his  leg-arrangement  as  well  as  I  could,  sat 
discussing  matters  with  him  for  some  time,  though 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  331 

the  difficulties  of  language  made  our  discussions 
move  slowly,  and  sometimes  to  the  amusement  or 
confusion  of  both.  He  somehow  perceived  that  I 
was  from  America,  and  immediately  began  to  press 
me  to  purchase  this  and  that.  I  bought  a  few  trin- 
kets, and  then  in  reply  to  his  continued  urgings 
told  him  I  had  no  more  money  to  spare.  This 
seemed  to  surprise  him.  "  All  Americans  are 
rich,"  said  he.  And  the  same  was  said  by  one  of 
the  Arabs  at  the  Pyramids.  It  was  rather  a  new 
thing  for  me  to  suffer  annoyance  from  the  imputa- 
tion of  being  rich,  but  I  endeavored  to  bear  up 
with  complacency. 

The  climate  of  Egypt  is  very  genial  during  our 
winter  months,  frost  and  snow  are  unknown,  and 
husbandry  can  be  pursued  the  year  around.  The 
air  is  clear  and  the  sunset  and  moonlight  scenes 
grand  in  the  extreme.  A  view  from  the  Citadel  at 
morning  or  evening  will  well  repay  the  fatigue  of 
many  a  weary  mile. 

I  cannot  easily  forget  the  beauty  of  the  night 
and  the  striking  scene  witnessed  on  my  first  arrival 
in  Cairo.  The  air  was  clear  and  balmy  and  the 
bright  moon  shed  an  indescribable  lustre  upon  the 
stately  domes  and  graceful  minarets.  A  gentle 
breeze  swept  up  the  valley  of  the  Nile,  swaying  the 
spectral  arms  of  the  noble  palms  and  other  tropical 
trees  and  flowering  shrubs  that  adorned  the  gardens 
and  squares.  And  here  and  there  were  groups,  in 
picturesque  costume,  reclining  in  listless  Oriental 
postures,  as  if  listening  to  story  or  gossip,  and 


332  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

reminding  one  of  scenes  in  the  "  Arabian  Nights," 
while  in  some  of  the  streets  the  restless  tramp  of 
busy  throngs  went  on. 

Cairo  is  a  large,  an  old,  and  a  famous  city  ;  one 
that  during  its  long  existence  has  experienced  the 
severities  as  well  as  the  smiles  of  fortune.  War, 
pestilence  and  famine,  have  in  turn  left  their  deso- 
lating marks,  and  even  now  the  premonitory  throes 
of  some  great  change  are  felt.  The  older  streets 
are  narrow,  with  lofty  stone  buildings,  many  of 
which  have  the  appearance  of  great  age,  though 
there  is  not  much  that  indicates  positive  decay. 
Some  of  the  newer,  Frenchified  sections  have 
capacious  streets,  with  buildings  that  would  grace 
many  a  modern  European  city.  The  houses  have 
flat  roofs,  which  afford  agreeable  promenades,  and 
on  summer  evenings  are  much  occupied.  The  ba- 
zaars are  well  supplied  with  the  rich  goods  of  the 
East  as  well  as  with  those  more  commonly  required 
by  every-day  wants. 

To  the  native  Egyptian,  the  Nile  is  a  sacred 
stream,  the  source  of  his  nation's  former  grandeur 
and  glory.  And  it  is  still  a  stream  of  wealth, 
though  at  present  its  riches  flow  into  other  hands. 
The  water  contains  an  extremely  fertilizing  sedi- 
ment. Wherever  it  is  applied,  to  trees,  to  field  or 
ornamental  vegetation,  its  quickening  effects  are 
speedily  apparent,  and  the  annual  overflow  is  Na- 
ture's great  process  of  manuring.  As  drinking 
water  it  is  pronounced  most  healthful,  and  when 
filtered,  is  clear  and  uncommonly  pleasant  to  the 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  333 

taste.  There  is  a  saying  that  the  ancient  inhabitants 
sometimes  ate  salt  to  create  thirst,  that  they  might 
enjoy  the  drinking.  But  from  what  I  saw  I  should 
judge  that  some  of  the  modern  residents  hardly 
prefer  it  to  good  beer  or  thick,  black  Mocha  coffee. 
The  beneficent  old  Nile  may  yet  become  the 
source  of  regeneration  to  the  now  depressed  land. 
The  present  agitations,  there  is  reason  to  hope, 
will  result  in  permanent  good,  in  sweeping  away 
the  political,  the  social,  and,  may  it  not  be  added, 
the  religious  rubbish  of  long  ages.  And  when  the 
good  time  arrives,  the  "star  of  empire,"  having 
completed  its  western  course  around  the  world,  will 
again  arise  and  shed  its  revivifying  and  restoring 
beams  in  that  God-loved  land. 

GOOD-BYE    TO    EGYPT. 

But  my  very  pleasant  stay  in  Egypt  came  too 
speedily  to  an  end,  and  I  left  Alexandria  in  the 
steamship  Ararat,  bound  for  Liverpool.  And  by 
the  way,  Liverpool,  so  far  as  voyaging  is  con- 
cerned, is  about  half  way  between  Alexandria  and 
New  York. 

Short  as  my  stay  in  the  land  of  the  Pharaohs  had 
been,  it  was  full  of  interest,  and  some  of  my 
unique  experiences  will  remain  ineffaceable.  The 
beautiful  skies  and  balmy  airs,  the  picturesque 
phases  of  Eastern  life,  all  had  attractions.  And 
the  many  little  acts  of  kindness  and  considerate 
attention  it  was  my  lot  to  experience  among  those 
far-off  strangers  contributed  largely  to  elevate  my 


334  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

faith  in  the  essential  goodness  of  human  nature, 
cultivated  or  uncultivated. 

Perhaps  I  was  not  so  much  carried  away  in  the 
contemplation  of  antiquities  as  some  of  a  more 
sentimental  or  devotional  spirit  would  have  been. 
But  yet  no  one  can  be  in  such  a  land,  a  land  where 
at  almost  every  step  appear  reminders  of  momentous 
historical  events  and  Bible  scenes,  and  pass  un- 
heeding by. 

The  same  old  river,  so  sacred  and  so  venerated 
through  all  the  known  ages,  still  rolls  on  in  the  same 
placid  dignity  that  it  did  when  Egyptian  civilization 
crowned  its  banks  with  structures  which  man  in 
later  ages  has  failed  to  approach  in  grandeur,  in 
sombre  beauty,  in  durability  —  when  historians, 
philosophers,  kings  and  warriors  mused  or  triumphed 
there  —  yes,  and  when  the  captive  Hebrews  toiled 
at  their  ignominious  tasks,  when  the  consuming 
plagues  came,  and  when  the  cunning  Hebrew  maids 
and  matrons  filed  off  with  their  purloined  jewelry. 

And  then  to  think  of  the  countless  numbers  of 
old  Egypt's  worthies  who  yet  sleep  in  the  tombs 
that  abound  within  the  gurgling  sound  of  the  waters, 
to  say  nothing  of  the  multitudes,  whose  richly- 
adorned  resting-places  have  been  rifled  by  barbaric 
hands  of  the  precious  deposits,  and  left  open  to  the 
drifting  desert  sands. 

It  is  with  a  kind  of  awe  that  we  gaze  upon  the 
Pyramids,  those  mysterious  old  piles ;  and  upon 
the  grave  old  Sphinx  which  has  stood  in  solemn 
state,  reviewing  the  onward  march  of  untold  genera- 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  335 

tions.  And  as  I  stood  there,  perhaps  where  their 
very  foot-prints  were  left,  it  was  curious  to  imagine 
what  were  the  thoughts  of  Potiphar,  of  Joseph,  of 
Moses  in  roving  boyhood,  of  Mahomet,  Plato, 
Herodotus,  Strabo,  Alexander,  Cleopatra,  Belzoni> 
Bonaparte,  and  hosts  of  others  of  undying  name, 
who  have  lingered  in  the  eddying  sands  scanning 
the  noble  proportions  of  those  now  inscrutable  relics 
of  a  long-lost  age. 

Not  far  from  Cairo  is  the  spot  where  it  is  alleged 
the  infant  Moses  was  found  by  Pharaoh's  romping 
daughter  as  she  sported  among  the  rushes.  And 
somewhat  farther  from  the  river  bank  is  the  sup- 
posed place  where  Joseph  and  Mary,  with  the  infant 
Jesus,  paused  for  rest  when  they  fled  into  Egypt  to 
avoid  the  murderous  edict  of  Herod.  And  con- 
nected with  that  sacred  spot  is  a  strange  legend 
concerning  the  rueful  race  of  wanderers  known, 
the  wrorld  over,  as  Gipsies  —  the  name  being  merely 
a  contraction  of  "  Egyptians."  The  tradition  as- 
serts that  when  the  little  family — Joseph,  Mary, 
and  the  babe,  —  weary  and  forlorn,  reached  this 
spot  and  craved  of  the  few  dwellers  thereabout 
shelter  and  permission  to  rest,  they  were  inhospita- 
bly spurned  ;  for  which  heartlessness  a  curse  fell 
upon  them  and  they  were  required  to  disperse,  and 
they  and  their  descendants  to  commence  an  unend- 
ing march  up  and  down  the  earth,  homeless,  hope- 
less and  despised  of  all  men  —  a  weird  conceit, 
similar  to  that  touching  the  pauseless  tramp  of  the 
Wandering  Jew. 


336  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

Among  the  native  population  of  Eastern  coun- 
tries, Egypt  in  particular,  drunkenness  is  almost 
literally  unknown.  One  may  traverse  the  streets  of 
Cairo,  for  instance,  whether  streets  of  the  better  or 
poorer  class,  day  by  day  and  night  by  night,  and 
not  see  an  intoxicated  person,  excepting  possibly 
a  staggerer  in  Christian  garb.  Nor  is  the  eye 
pained  by  the  sight  of  drinking  saloons  such  as  are 
seen  in  Christian  countries,  for  the  Koran  makes 
drunkenness  a  mortal  sin.  Neither  will  one  meet 
any  of  the  class  known  among  us  as  night- walkers. 
Indeed,  there  are  hardly  any  of  the  petty  crimes, 
such  as  those  on  which  our  police  and  other  in- 
ferior courts  live  and  thrive,  committed  by  the 
native  Egyptians.  Offences  are  committed,  but 
not  such  as  are  incited  by  the  use  of  liquor.  Gos- 
siping and  drinking  "  saloons  "  there  are,  but  the 
drink  is  coffee,  and  no  screens  conceal  the  partak- 
ers. Religion,  no  doubt,  has  much  to  do  here. 
Our  Bible  is  not  so  uncompromisingly  hostile  to  the 
use  of  wine  as  the  Koran ;  if  it  were,  perhaps  we 
should  see  less  of  the  evil  of  intemperance  in  our 
own  land,  for  a  prohibition  that  becomes  a  part  of 
one's  religion  is  likely  to  exercise  the  highest  con- 
trol. 

It  is  an  indisputable  fact,  wink  at  it  as  we  may,  or 
deny  it  as  we  may,  that  we  Americans,  as  a  nation, 
are  the  most  devoted  worshippers  of  Mammon  in 
the  civilized  world.  The  observant  tourist  in  the 
old  countries  at  once  becomes  convinced  of  this. 
And  it  is  refreshing  to  minds  not  so  hampered  as 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  337 

most  of  ours  are  by  chains  of  gold,  to  mingle  with 
those  who  are  not  so  fettered,  and  who  look  to  some 
higher  source  for  life's  enjoyment.  Less  cultivated 
in  many  cases  they  may  be,  but  cultivation  and  in- 
dependence of  thought  are  quite  different  things. 
And  the  true  source  of  happiness  is  not  exclusively 
the  gold  mine. 

I  was  greatly  interested,  in  different  places,  in 
watching  the  sports  of  children  in  the  streets,  to 
see  the  little  olive  faces  radiate  and  the  dark  eyes 
sparkle  during  the  absorbing  contests.  In  Alexan- 
dria and  Cairo  as  well  as  in  Algiers  and  Malta,  I 
could  not  avoid  occasionally  pausing  to  watch  the 
progress  of  their  games.  And  it  was  really  won- 
derful to  see  how  readily  the  little  fellows  adapted 
themselves  to  circumstances,  and  bridged  over 
threatened  difficulties.  But  then  the  juvenile  mind 
as  well  as  body  is  pliant  and  quick  in  action. 
Some  would  be  in  oriental,  some  in  occidental  and 
some  in  mixed  costume ;  but  all  such  differences 
were  lost  sight  of  in  playground  eagerness.  Some 
would  jabber  in  Arabic,  some  in  English,  French, 
Greek  or  Italian  ;  and  some  in  their  ardor  would 
seem  to  mix  the  whole  together.  Most  of  them 
appeared  to  be  able  to  speak  more  than  one  lan- 
guage ;  but  such  as  could  not  were  instantly  helped 
out  by  their  companions,  who  made  off-hand  trans- 
lations with  a  celerity  that  would  astonish  most 
professors,  and  with  an  accuracy  that  never  seemed 
to  be  questioned. 

As  to  the  Mahometan  religion,  it  struck  me  that 


33^  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

we  Christians  know  as  little  about  it  as  Mahometans 
know  about  Christianity,  and  that  we  and  they 
have  much  the  same  estimate  of  the  value  of  each 
other's  profession.  They  seem  generally  to  con- 
clude that  the  Koran  teaches  that  all  will  be  finally 
brought  into  the  realms  of  bliss  —  bliss,  however, 
consisting  more  in  physical  delights  than  spiritual 
elevation ;  some  desperate  sinners,  however,  being 
compelled  to  undergo  ages  of  expiatory  suffering 
before  restoration.  Yet  there  are  different  inter- 
pretations of  vital  passages  of  their  sacred  book  ; 
perhaps  as  many  and  as  great  differences  as  we 
Christians  entertain  touching  vital  passages  in  our 
charter  of  faith.  But  when  we  come  to  real,  down- 
right, outspoken  unbelievers,  our  turbaned  friends 
seem  to  be  able  to  boast  of  far  the  smaller  number. 
But  neither  they  nor  we  have  any  too  much  relig- 
ion. The  Mahometans  have  their  sacred  day, 
the  Jews  theirs,  and  the  Christians  theirs ;  and 
among  them  all  there  appear  to  be  hardly  any  Sab- 
bath observances  at  all.  At  Alexandria  and  Cairo, 
at  least,  things  went  on  much  the  same  every  day. 
To  the  New  Englander,  who  would  visit  the 
East,  Syria,  Egypt,  or  Palestine,  for  health  or 
pleasure,  the  season  of  the  year  is  of  great  import- 
ance. If  he  leaves  home  by  steamer  in  the  early 
part  of  September,  and  does  not  loiter  much  in 
Europe,  he  will  ordinarily  find  himself  in  the  coun- 
tries named  at  a  favorable  time  —  a  time  when  he 
can  count  on  clear  skies  and  agreeable  temperature. 
He  will  have  opportunity  for  an  extensive  tour 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  339 

before    disagreeable    climatic  changes  beset   him, 
and  he  will  find  an  abundance  of  luscious  fruit. 

The  whole  civilized  world  is  indebted  to  the 
Mediterranean  countries  for  a  supply  of  excellent 
tropical  fruit,  and  the  cheapness  at  home  is  a  boon 
of  incalculable  value  to  the  poorer  native  classes  ; 
though  perhaps  if  the  earth  in  some  sections  did 
not  yield  so  bountifully  it  would  be  better  for  the 
people  by  obliging  them  to  bestir  themselves  enough 
to  sweat  out  some  of  their  laziness. 

But  let  us  take  our  exodus  from  Egypt  in  a  reg- 
ular and  orderly  way.  It  was  in  the  beautiful  har- 
bor of  Alexandria  that  the  ship's  agent,  a  few 
business  men  and  new-found  friends,  came  on 
board  to  bid  adieu  and  invoke  for  us  a  prosperous 
voyage  —  that  the  Arab  and  Jew  peddlers  made 
their  final  endeavors  upon  our  purses  —  that  the  na- 
tive stevedores,  shouting  and  wrangling,  cast  off 
in  their  dirty  lighters  —  and  left  us  to  peaceably 
steam  away  on  the  homeward  course.  And  away 
we  steamed  in  the  sunny  glories  of  an  Egyptian 
morning,  in  which  even  Pompey's  dark  pillar  looked 
cheerful  and  bright  —  steamed  away  with  pleasant 
recollections  of  the  genial  airs  and  serene  skies  of 
that  ancient  land,  with  feelings  of  reverence  for  her 
great  history  and  fervent  prayers  that  she  may  have 
a  happy  deliverance  out  of  her  present  tribulation, 
debasement  and  misery. 

At  the  time  we  left  Alexandria  there  had  recently 
been  one  or  two  isolated  cases  of  cholera,  and  quar- 


340  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

antine  restrictions  were  in  force  at  most  of  the 
Mediterranean  ports.  So  as  the  ship  had  a  full 
cargo  for  Liverpool,  the  captain  determined  to  pro- 
ceed directly  there  without  touching,  as  usual,  at 
intermediate  ports.  Indeed,  as  to  the  cholera,  it 
may  be  said  that  at  all  times  it  exists,  to  some  ex- 
tent, in  the  East,  dormant  most  of  the  time,  but 
occasionally,  probably  by  some  peculiar  atmospheric 
condition,  called  into  activity,  to  the  great  destruc- 
tion of  human  life  in  some  of  the  densely  popu- 
lated quarters,  and  to  the  terror  of  surrounding 
communities.  Efforts  have  been  made  to  discover 
the  mysterious  means  by  which  the  fell  disease  is 
propagated  and  commissions  have  been  sent  from 
different  countries  to  examine  and  report,  but  no 
entirely  satisfactory  conclusion  has  yet  been  ar- 
rived at ;  though  it  is  said  that  the  curious  fact  has 
been  established  to  the  satisfaction  of  at  least  one 
European  commission  that  common  garden  lettuce 
is  a  possible  medium  of  transmission. 

I  was  rather  glad  that  the  captain  determined  to 
proceed  directly  to  Liverpool,  as  that  port  would 
be  reached  by  the  first  of  January  and  I  could  im- 
mediately take  passage  thence  for  New  York,  for 
I  had  a  strong  though  perhaps  foolish  curiosity  to 
cross  the  Atlantic  in  mid-winter. 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  34! 


CHAPTER  XII. 

THE    HOMEWARD    VOYAGE. 

THE  voyage  homeward  was  not  without  inci- 
dents of  marked  interest.  The  ship  had  unexcep- 
tional accommodations  and  was  provided  with 
everything  necessary  for  good  living ;  the  officers 
were  thorough  seamen,  such  as  are  found  on  all 
high-class  English  ships,  of  obliging  manners  and 
not  so  stately  and  reserved  as  some  on  the  Atlantic 
Cunarders.  There  was  a  small  but  agreeable  com- 
pany of  passengers,  and  the  weather  was  so  warm 
and  fine  that  life  on  deck  was  very  enjoyable.  For 
several  days  we  had  gentle  breezes  from  the  Desert 
of  Sahara  and  they  were  quite  refreshing,  though 
at  some  seasons  the  winds  from  that  quarter  ripen 
into  the  terrible  sirocco,  and  are  of  sufficient  force 
to  be  felt  in  Sicily,  Italy,  and  the  Grecian  Isles. 

Every  day  we  met  large  vessels  and  sailing  ships. 
And  on  one  occasion,  when  nearing  Malta,  a 
steamer  signalled  to  ours,  anxiously  inquiring  where 
they  were,  having  lost  their  reckoning.  They  were 
bound  for  Malta,  but  could  not  tell  what  course  to 
steer.  Our  captain  informed  them,  by  signal,  of 
their  position  and  then  steamed  on,  as  no  further 
assistance  was  needed.  They  soon  fell  to  the  rear 
and  disappeared  beneath  the  horizon,  for  ours  was 
much  the  faster  ship.  This  was  in  the  morning, 
and  they  must  have  reached  Malta  before  night 
unless  some  other  mishap  overtook  them.  And 


342  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

here,  for  one  who  is  accustomed  to  moralize,  an 
opportunity  to  indulge  is  afforded.  On  the  sea  of 
life  people  often  lose  their  reckoning  and,  in  many 
cases,  being  too  wilful  or  too  proud  to  signal  for 
help,  finally  dash  upon  rocks  more  destructive  than 
those  that  embattle  Malta. 

From  this  little  incident,  I  could  not  help  thinking 
how  the  ancient  mariners  must  have  sometimes  be- 
come bewildered,  as  they  groped  their  way  over 
these  very  waters  before  the  invention  of  the  com- 
pass and  other  nautical  instruments  and  appliances 
which  now  make  navigation  so  safe  and  so  rapid. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  passed  Malta  so  near  that 
the  serrated  crests  and  deep  defiles  were  clearly 
visible ;  and  then  Gozo,  its  rugged  adjunct,  whose 
fortunes,  good  or  bad,  it  has  always  been  fated  to 
share.  This  islet  lies  about  five  miles  northwest  of 
Malta,  with  which  it  is  probably  connected  by  under- 
sea ledges.  Its  length  is  some  ten  miles  and  its 
width  about  five.  Rabato  is  the  chief  town,  and 
there  are  many  objects  of  interest,  chiefly  antiqua- 
rian, to  occupy  the  tourist  in  a  day's  ramble,  not  to 
mention  the  abundance  of  luscious  grapes  with 
which  he  may  refresh  himself  at  a  price  hardly 
above  asking.  Inaccessible  cliffs  guard  a  consid- 
erable part  of  the  coast  and,  as  the  isle  faded  away 
on  the  horizon,  the  declining  sun  burnishing  the 
peaks  of  misty  gray,  a  striking  picture  was  af- 
forded. 

It  has  recently  been  stated  in  the  newspapers 
that  the  Pope  contemplates  removing  from  Rome 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  343 

and  making  Malta  his  future  place  of  residence. 
It  is  hardly  probable  that  such  a  change  will  be 
made  at  present,  though  it  may  with  safety  be  said 
that  His  Holiness  will  not  be  likely  to  find  any 
place  in  the  whole  Christian  world  where  a  more 
truly  devoted  Catholic  population  exists  than  in 
Malta. 

As  we  proceeded  along  the  coasts  of  Tunis, 
Algiers  and  Morocco  the  lofty,  broken  highlands 
were  frequently  in  view  for  long  stretches,  and 
sometimes  we  were  sufficiently  near  to  discern  cosy 
settlements  with  little  native  fishing  and  other  ves- 
sels scudding  about  the  sunny  bays. 

All  along  we  had  the  company  of  numerous  sea 
birds  on  the  wirig,  ever  striving  to  secure  a  share 
of  such  savory  rations  as  usually  fell  to  the  fishes. 
On  a  pleasant  morning  we  passed  near  a  flock  of 
albatross  quietly  rocking  upon  the  waves,  and  appar- 
ently viewing  with  wonder  and  scorn  the  ridiculous 
antics  of  a  bevy  of  porpoises  that  were  sporting  near, 
as  if  out  on  a  holiday  time.  I  remember  seeing 
but  one  solitary  whale  in  the  Mediterranean. 

And  here  I  must  remark  that  my  conceptions  of 
the  science  and  art  of  navigation  have  been  greatly 
enlarged  by  observing  the  dexterity  with  which  the 
ragged  reefs  and  lonely  rocks,  that  rise  in  castel- 
lated grandeur  along  some  parts  of  the  African 
coast,  are  avoided  in  the  dark  night  as  well  as  in 
the  bright  day,  by  the  skilled  commander,  and  the 
accuracy  with  which  he  determines  his  position 
and  the  hour  at  which  he  will  reach  a  given  point. 


344  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

While  speeding  along  off  the  Bay  of  Tunis,  for 
instance,  it  seemed  as  if  the  gigantic  barriers  rising 
here  and  there,  on  either  hand,  were  so  placed  by 
Nature  herself  as  to  obstruct  the  ingress  of  intruders, 
and  I  told  the  Captain  that  to  me  it  seemed  "  extra 
hazardous,"  if  not  in  a  calm  sea  and  broad  day- 
light, certainly  in  stormy  weather  and  darkness,  to 
attempt  a  passage  to  the  city  of  Tunis  which  was 
some  thirty  miles  away.  But  he  seemed  to  have 
no  thought  of  danger  and  went  on  to  speak  of  the 
splendid  harbor  within.  In  all  probability  Tunis, 
if  not  Tripoli  also,  will  soon  become  fully  recog- 
nized as  a  French  dependency  —  perhaps  united  with 
the  Algerian  government — and  then  this  beautiful 
bay  will  become  a  formidable  French  naval  station. 
With  the  English  at  Malta  and  Egypt  and  the 
French  at  Algiers  and  Tunis  and  perhaps  Tripoli, 
it  will  not  be  long  before  the  East  takes  a  place  in 
the  catalogue  of  progressive  nations.  And  then, 
no  doubt,  excuses  will  arise  for  the  enlightened 
Christian  occupants  to  begin  a  war  among  them- 
selves ;  for  through  all  ages  the  fact  seems  to  have 
been  verified  that  man  is  a  fighting  animal  what- 
ever his  moral  status  or  intellectual  refinement. 

In  our  American  papers  we  often  see  such  "  oc- 
cupations "  flippantly  spoken  of.  England  will  not 
permit  France  to  do  this,  nor  France  permit  Eng- 
land to  do  that,  we  are  told  ;  or  "  the  powers  "  will 
arrange  things  so  and  so.  I  do  not  think  there  is 
half  the  jealousy,  that  some  imagine,  at  present  ex- 
isting, and  cannot  doubt  that  the  occupation  of 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  345 

Egypt  by  England  and  Tunis  by  France  would 
meet  the  approbation  of  that  mysterious  combina- 
tion "  the  powers."  Perplexing  questions  of  detail 
might  indeed  arise,  but  the  main  purpose  would  be 
approved. 

I  saw  in  a  Liverpool  paper,  immediately  after 
my  arrival,  a  statement  that  the  British  government 
had  quietly  abolished  their  Consular  Court  at  Tunis. 
That  signified  something.  And  I  afterward  saw  in 
the  Boston  Journal  of  May  9  the  following  de- 
spatch :  — 

ROME,  May  8.  —  Government  circles  in  Italy  are  very 
much  agitated  over  a  rumor  to  the  effect  that  a  secret  co- 
alition has  been  formed  between  France  and  England,  by 
the  terms  of  which  France  is  to  vote  with  England 
throughout  the  coming  Egyptian  Conference.  The  con- 
sideration, that  it  is  reported  is  to  be  given  to  France  for 
this  support  of  England  in  the  latter 's  Egyptian  schemes, 
is  that  France  shall  be  left  free  to  work  out  the  designs 
which  she  is  supposed  to  have  in  regard  to  Tunis  and 
Tripoli. 

Now  I  do  not  lay  claim  to  any  special  political 
forecast,  and  may  have  been  mistaken  both  in  con- 
clusions and  premises ;  but  as  intimated  it  did  all 
along  seem  to  me  as  if  things  were  tending  towards 
the  end  suggested  in  the  despatch,  excepting  that 
it  was  not  thought  that  Italy  would  be  "  very  much 
agitated,"  though  she  has  large  interests  in  the 
East,  and  her  noble  ships  may  be  seen  in  all  the 
principal  ports.  But  then,  supposing  France  and 


346  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

England  to  be  determined,  what  could  Italy  "do 
about  it,"  even  if  Austria  should  join  her? 

Consular  Courts  are  anomalous  institutions  and 
far  too  often  have  borne  oppressively  on  native 
rights.  I  was  much  interested  in  several  conversa- 
tions had  with  the  captain  of  one  of  the  English 
steamers  lying  in  the  harbor  of  Alexandria.  He 
had  long  been  running  to  Oriental  ports,  well  un- 
derstood the  political  condition  and  commercial 
state  of  things  in  that  region,  and  seemed  to  have 
an  uncommonly  comprehensive  forecast  of  the  pos- 
ture to  which  matters  were  fast  drifting.  It  was 
evidently  his  belief  that  the  helpless  natives  had 
been  subjected  to  great  wrongs  by  those  who  should 
have  been  their  protectors  ;  that  the  Consular  Courts 
were  often  institutions  of  oppression  rather  than 
justice,  and  he  was  especially  severe  in  his  denun- 
ciation of  the  arrogance  and  assumption  of  some  of 
the  Consuls  with  whom  he  had  dealt.  I  admired 
his  bluff  English  honesty  and  fearless  censure  of 
proceedings  that  admitted  of  no  excuse.  In  illus- 
tration of  one  of  his  points  he  related  an  incident 
in  which  he  was  himself  in  some  sense  an  actor  — 
or  rather  refused  to  be  an  actor. 

He  said  that  a  few  years  ago  he  took  out,  as  a 
passenger,  a  newly-appointed  Consul,  fresh  from 
the  civil  ranks  and  duly  puffed  up  by  the  import- 
ance of  his  office.  His  temperament  was  such  as 
boded  no  good  to  those  who  were  destined  to  move 
within  his  official  sphere.  While  handling  one  of 
his  boxes  before  landing,  the  native  baggageman, 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  347 

by  the  merest  accident,  let  it  fall  and  it  broke. 
The  damage  was  trifling ;  but  in  a  boiling  rage  the 
Consul  began  a  violent  scolding  at  what  he  chose 
to  call  inexcusable  carelessness.  In  vain  the  man 
apologized  and  tried  to  explain.  All  he  got  in  re- 
ply was  a  spit  in  the  face. 

To  a  Mussulman  this  was  an  unendurable  insult, 
especially  from  a  Christian  —  an  insult  that  in  this 
case  was  promptly  answered  by  a  blow.  The 
Captain  being  present  the  disturbance  was  at  once 
quelled.  But  the  Consul's  rage  did  not  soon  abate  ; 
he  insisted  that  the  man  should  be  immediately  ar- 
rested and  punished  with  all  the  severity  that  such 
an  unpardonable  indignity  to  the  representative  of 
a  great  nation  merited,  demanding,  with  a  pompos- 
ity bordering  on  insolence,  that  the  Captain  should 
promptly  take  such  action  as  would  insure  atone- 
ment for  the  unheard-of  insult  —  well  knowing,  of 
course,  that  when  an  occurrence  of  the  kind  hap- 
pens on  shipboard,  the  commander's  authority  comes 
in  question. 

To  the  Consul's  imperious  demand  the  Captain 
calmly  replied  that  it  was  fortunate  he  had  been  a 
witness  of  the  whole  proceeding  and  was  therefore 
able  to  act  according  to  knowledge  ;  that  he,  the 
Consul,  was  entirely  in  the  wrong ;  that  if  he  had 
spit  in  the  face  of  an  English  sailor  as  he  did  in 
the  face  of  that  man,  for  a  trifling  mishap,  his  first 
reflections  would  have  come  while  sprawling  upon 
the  deck ;  that  no  paper  tending  to  criminate  the 
man  would  receive  his  signature  nor  any  proceed- 


348  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

ing  calculated  to  result  in  punishment  receive  his 
sanction.  There  was  no  remedy  then  for  the 
damaged  Consul's  dignity. 

But  the  irate  official  was  not  satisfied,  and  for 
months  nursed  his  anger ;  nursed  it  till  the  Captain 
returned  on  another  voyage.  His  majesty  then 
again  appeared  with  papers  that  he  had  prepared, 
assuming  that  now  of  course  the  Captain  would  be 
ready  to  affix  his  signature  without  which  nothing 
could  be  done.  But  to  his  discomfiture  the  Cap- 
tain, with  a  natural  amount  of  vehemence,  utterly 
refused  to  lift  a  finger  to  help  him  in  the  proposed 
wrong.  The  Consul's  confusion  and  irritation  were 
grievous,  but  there  was  no  appeal  and  the  matter 
dropped.  The  Captain's  honest  indignation  kin- 
dled, as  he  went  on  with  the  narration,  till  it  found 
vent  in  bouncing  expletives  which  it  would  not  be 
polite  here  to  repeat. 

Probably  the  reader  has  not  forgotten  the  dis- 
graceful conduct  charged  upon  a  certain  United 
States  Consul  in  Egypt,  a  few  years  ago,  which 
resulted  in  his  dismissal.  But  this  is  enough  about 
Consular  Courts  and  Consuls. 

Great  events  are  about  transpiring  in  the  East ; 
old  institutions  are  tottering  ;  old  customs  and  ideas 
are  fast  giving  place  to  new  and  enlarged  concep- 
tions ;  liberal  political  sentiment  is  rapidly  undermin- 
ing the  ancient  despotisms  ;  and  more  than  all,  the 
benign  light  of  Christianity  is  penetrating  some  of 
the  darkest  places.  Commerce,  in  common  with 
the  missionaries,  is  helping  on  the  regenerating 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  349 

work.  But  perhaps  above  all  other  influences  in 
the  great  work,  the  building  of  railroads  is  the 
most  potent. 

Something  has  lately  been  said  in  the  papers 
touching  the  project  conceived,  I  believe  by  the 
fertile  brain  of  Baron  de  Lesseps,  of  converting 
the  Desert  of  Sahara  into  a  sea  by  flowage  from 
the  Mediterranean,  an<^  the  Bey  of  Tunis,  it  is  said, 
has  signified  his  consent  that  it  may  be  done  so  far 
as  his  rights  are  concerned,  though  if  he  did  not 
consent  it  would  probably  be  all  the  same  with 
"the  powers."  If  such  an  undertaking  should  be 
accomplished  a  mighty  change  would  follow,  a 
change  the  consequences  of  which  it  is  now  impos- 
sible to  estimate.  There  would  be  great  meteoro- 
logical and  topographical  alterations  —  alterations 
that  would  seriously  affect  all  that  quarter  of  the 
globe.  Italy,  France  and  Spain  would  feel  the 
effects,  as  well  as  the  Mediterranean  islands  gen- 
erally, to  say  nothing  of  various  parts  of  the  "  dark 
continent."  The  area  of  culture  would  be  enlarged 
here  and  diminished  there,  and  the  productions 
would  vary  as  temperatures  changed. 

But  it  would  occupy  far  too  much  space  to  speak 
of  the  many  topics  worthy  of  notice  that  occur  to 
the  mind  on  a  passage  through  that  beautiful  sea, 
every  league  of  which  presents  some  point  of  at- 
traction or  object  of  historical  interest. 

Christmas  day  was  mild  and  beautiful,  and  the 
sea  favorable  for  recreation  on  deck.  And  the 
Captain,  with  old  English  heartiness,  had  the  saloon 


350  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

decorated  and  the  historical  entertainment  provided, 
conspicuous  in  its  place  appearing  the  sumptuous 
plum  pudding  surrounded  with  blue  flames  and 
symbolic  adornments. 

Upon  a  serene  and  bright  morning  we  passed 
Cape  Trafalgar,  so  near  that  small  objects  along 
the  shore  were  clearly  discerned ;  and  it  did  not 
seem  as  if  those  blue,  calm  waters  could  ever  have 
been  disturbed  by  fiercely  belching  hulls,  or  those 
sleepy,  blue-veiled  hills  have  echoed  back  the  deadly 
cannon's  roar.  But  so  it  was ;  upon  that  twenty- 
first  of  October,  1805,  heroic  Nelson's  victory  there 
over  the  French  and  Spanish  fleets  added  another 
lustrous  beam  to  England's  naval  fame.  But  Nel- 
son fell,  tarnishing  his  brilliant  name  by  those 
strange  dying  words  —  "  Poor  Lady  Hamilton  !  " 

As  if  by  some  fortuitous  coincidence,  we  presently 
met  a  Mediterranean  fleet  of  noble  British  war 
steamers  bearing  the  Duke  of  Edinburgh  and  other 
notables.  Gibraltar  was  in  full  view  as  we  emerged 
from  the  Strait  on  a  pleasant  morning ;  and  then 
Cadiz  and  a  Spanish  village  or  two. 

And  here  I  am  reminded  of  the  following  off- 
hand remark  concerning  Gibraltar,  in  one  of  my 
letters  entitled  "On  the  Mediterranean."  "  As  I 
leaned  upon  the  ship's  rail,  I  could  not  avoid  the 
strange  thought  that  at  some  time  in  the  future, 
when  war  again  spreads  her  alarms,  some  spectral 
balloon  may  ascend,  suddenly  hover  over  the  sup- 
posed impregnable  heights  and  drop  down  such  a 
charge  of  dynamite  as  will  rend  the  rocks  to  their 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  351 

foundations."  This  would  seem  almost  prophetic 
in  view  of  the  following  paragraph  found  in  an 
English  paper  of  April  15. 

DYNAMITE  AT  GIBRALTAR.  An  Italian  vessel  with 
twenty  tons  of  dynamite  on  board  anchored  in  the  bay 
last  week,  and  her  papers  not  being  in  order,  she  was  de- 
tained. Active  measures  have  been  taken  for  the  security 
of  the  fortress. 

Are  the  authorities  in  fear  then  that  a  Fenian, 
or  a  fiendish  attempt  of  some  kind  to  blow  up  the 
"  impregnable  fortress,"  by  the  agency  suggested, 
has  already  been  in  contemplation  ? 

Soon  we  were  off,  rolling  upon  the  broad  Atlan- 
tic. The  weather  continued  remarkably  fine  till 
we  neared  St.  George's  Channel,  when  foggy,  dis- 
mal English  weather  began  to  prevail.  But  the 
lordly  light  of  Holyhead  soon  beamed  upon  our 
course,  and  in  due  time  we  arrived  in  busy  Liver- 
pool. 

I  have  here  and  there  alluded  to  the  cost  of  living 
in  Europe  and  the  East,  as  compared  with  our  own 
country.  And  there  is  certainly  a  great  deal  for  us 
Americans  to  learn  in  this  direction.  I  am  satisfied 
that  we  waste,  yes,  absolutely  waste,  what  might 
support  a  fully  equal  number.  In  other  words,  our 
living  costs  double  what  it  need. 

From  the  odds  and  ends  which,  by  us,  are  thrown 
away  as  refuse,  other  people,  especially  the  French, 


352  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

would  make  soups  —  not  stews  —  very  palatable 
and  nutritious.  "  But,"  asks  one  who  is  as  poor  as 
any  of  us,  "  am  I  to  eat  the  leavings  of  others?  I 
will  have  something  fresh  every  day  as  long  as  I 
can  get  it."  Very  well.  But  what  are  leavings? 
He  would  be  an  extraordinary  provider  who  could 
so  gauge  the  appetites  of  a  household  that  every 
meal  would  prove  an  exact  pattern,  the  "full-belly- 
and-empty  platter  "  measure  being  beyond  the  skill 
of  most  caterers.  In  our  liberal  way  of  providing 
there  is  often  as  much  left  as  consumed.  And  why 
is  not  the  remainder  as  good  as  the  portion  consumed  ? 
If  it  is  a  little  stale,  it  goes  to  the  fire  again,  and 
fire  is  a  great  restorer  and  purifier,  if  purification 
is  needed. 

In  the  old  countries  whatever  is  left  is  reserved, 
in  some  new  form  perhaps  ;  nothing  is  lost  through 
false  pride  or  poverty-tending  pampering  of  appe- 
tite. Soups  are  a  great  save-all,  and  it  would  prove 
a  blessing  to  our  people  if  they  could  more  fre- 
quently be  seen  upon  our  tables.  But  soups  are 
not  the  only  way  in  which  remnants  of  food  may 
be  rendered  available,  as  every  thrifty  housewife 
well  knows.  The  cost  of  living  with  us  would  no 
doubt  be  greatly  reduced  if  we  were  not  so  waste- 
ful. It  would  make  some  of  our  people  stare  to 
see  how  cheaply  respectable  and  well-to-do  families 
live  in  the  old  countries. 

On  the  ocean  steamers,  especially  some  of  those 
of  the  Atlantic  lines,  there  is  great  waste.  I  was 
astonished  to  see  what  quantities  of  fresh,  whole- 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  353 

some  food  were  thrown  overboard.  It  seemed  as 
if  it  was  thought  a  part  of  duty  to  feed  the  fishes. 
I  asked  why  it  was,  and  in  reply  was  told  that  there 
was  no  other  way  of  disposing  of  broken  food  from 
the  saloon  tables,  there  being  no  opportunity  for 
beggars  to  come  with  their  baskets.  "  But  why  not 
give  it  to  the  sailors,  whose  provisions  are  of  infe- 
rior quality?"  "Oh,  that  would  never  do;  it 
would  make  them  discontented  with  what  they  have 
and  breed  quarrels  as  to  who  should  have  the  savory 
bits  :  they  would  grumble  and  shy  overboard  their 
own  provisions  at  every  opportunity."  Perhaps 
there  is  something  in  that ;  there  is  at  least  a  touch  of 
human  depravity  ;  but  if  it  were  not  for  the  leakage 
here,  the  price  of  a  passage  might  be  reduced. 

"  Gather  up  the  fragments  that  nothing  may  be 
lost"  is  an  admonition  which  is  not  much  heeded  in 
our  domestic  economy.  But  it  is  easier  to  state  facts 
than  convincingly  suggest  remedies,  and  so  we 
leave  the  matter. 

Ocean  voyaging  commends  itself  very  differently 
to  different  people.  To  one  who  has  no  terrors  of 
the  sea,  is  not  liable  to  seasickness,  and  loves  undis- 
turbed ease,  the  longer  stretches  of  sea  travel  are 
highly  enjoyable.  In  a  well-appointed  ship  the 
passenger  is  surrounded  by  every  convenience  ;  has 
a  home,  with  all  the  "  modern  improvements;"  the 
meals  are  regular  and  the  table  supplied  with  every- 
thing that  the  delicate  or  luxurious  appetite  can  crave  ; 
he  can  promenade  the  deck  whenever  exercise  is 


354  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

desired,  and  can  retire  for  repose  whenever  inclina- 
tion prompts  ;  he  has  genial  and  sympathetic  fellow- 
passengers,  with  whom  agreeable  and  enduring 
friendships  may  be  established,  in  addition  to  pleas- 
ant daily  intercourse.  And  sometimes  attachments 
are  formed  that  ripen  into  propitious  relations.  The 
few  angry  seas  that  are  encountered  may  almost  be 
said  to  add  to  the  sum  of  his  enjoyment  by  contrast. 
For  a  brief  space  storms  may  disturb  the  minds  of 
the  apprehensive  and  the  stomachs  of  the  delicate, 
but  comparatively  few  really  boisterous  days  are 
usually  experienced.  And  besides,  common  dan- 
gers awaken  the  kindlier  sympathies,  and  lead  to 
warmer  friendships  and  attachments  as  surely  as  to 
better  resolutions.  The  hours  of  storm  and  tumult 
on  the  sea  are  happily  far  outnumbered  by  the  days 
of  serenity  and  nights  of  gentle  rocking.  Yet,  to 
persons  liable  to  sea-sickness,  water  travel  can  have 
few  charms.  Some  however  are  not  subject  to 
the  grievous  affliction,  and  with  that  favored  class 
the  writer  is  profoundly  thankful  that  nature  has  so 
kindly  numbered  him.  In  his  whole  thirteen  thous- 
and miles  upon  the  sea,  during  which  the  boisterous 
Bay  of  Biscay  was  twice  crossed  and  the  swells  off 
the  Gulf  of  Lyons  and  the  Adriatic  encountered, 
to  say  nothing  of  the  passages  across  the  Atlantic 
and  through  the  English  and  St.  George's  Channels, 
not  three  hours  of  seasickness  were  experienced  ; 
and  he  never,  with  the  solitary  exception  of  one 
evening  meal,  missed  going  regularly  to  the  table 
with  a  good  appetite. 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  355 

It  is  a  singular  fact  that  elderly  people  are 
more  commonly  exempt  from  seasickness  than  the 
younger ;  but  whether  from  their  brains  having  be- 
come more  steady  or  more  obtuse,  I  do  not  know ; 
yet  from  what  I  saw  it  appeared  as  if  young  child- 
ren were  little  affected. 

If  to  one  who  knows  that  he  is  fast  nearing  the 
bourne  from  which  there  is  no  return  there  is  any- 
thing, in  the  whole  visible  universe,  that  impresses 
with  a  sense  of  human  weakness  and  insignificance, 
and  the  power  and  greatness  of  Him  who  rules  the 
winds  and  waves,  it  is  an  ocean  voyage.  The 
ocean  has  no  deadlier  chills  than  its  chills  to  human 
pride. 

In  this  connection  perhaps,  as  well  as  in  any 
other,  a  word  may  be  said  concerning  passports. 
Most  travelers  arm  themselves  with  these  as  parts 
of  their  outfit,  and  as  the  cost  is  but  five  dollars  for 
two  years,  it  is  very  well  to  go  thus  armed,  for  there 
may  be  occasions  when  they  will  prove  unexpectedly 
useful.-  Russia  is  about  the  only  European  country 
where  passports  are  now  required,  yet  wars  may 
suddenly  break  out  and  render  it  awkward  to  be 
without  such  protection.  Our  diplomatic  represen- 
tatives, however,  can  always  be  appealed  to  in  a 
strait.  In  my  own  case  none  was  ever  demanded, 
and  in  one  or  two  consular  offices  I  was  told  that 
the  requirement  was  fast  going  out  of  fashion  all 
around.  But  let  me  now  return  to  Liverpool. 


35  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

As  one  threads  her  princely  streets,  he  cannot 
fail  to  be  impressed  with  the  idea  that  he  is  in  a 
place  founded  not  only  on  solid  ground,  but  on 
steadfast  English  character.  Buildings  spacious 
and  of  the  most  substantial  material ;  capacious 
streets  lined  with  glittering  stores  and  traversed  by 
every  kind  of  conveyance  convenient  for  passenger 
or  mercantile  traffic ;  multitudes,  of  all  conditions, 
hastening  hither  and  thither,  meet  his  gaze.  But 
above  all,  he  is  struck  by  the  extraordinary  evi- 
dences of  commercial  grandeur  and  prosperity.  The 
miles  of  splendid  docks,  so  substantial  and  so  well- 
conditioned,  crowded  with  ships  from  every  quarter 
of  the  globe,  and  the  lofty  warehouses  stored  with 
the  richest  products  of  every  clime,  at  once  assure  him 
that  he  is  in  the  first  commercial  city  of  the  world. 

It  is  useless  to  deny  that  in  the  Old  World  there 
are  many  things  in  the  common  affairs  of  life  that 
it  would  be  well  for  us  Americans  to  copy,  and 
which  we  shall  copy  as  necessity  presses  upon  us. 
For  instance  in  the  matter  of  street  travel.  In 
Europe,  generally,  as  I  think  was  before  remarked, 
the  laws  require  that  no  street-car  or  omnibus  shall 
take  a  larger  number  of  passengers  than  can  be 
comfortably  seated,  the  number  for  each  car  being 
fixed  before  it  goes  on  the  road  ;  consequently  there 
is  no  crowding  and  scolding,  and  no  swearing,  oral 
or  mental,  such  as  every  day  occurs  in  our  public 
conveyances.  Regard  for  the  poor  horses  as  well 
as  for  the  convenience  of  passengers,  demands 
some  such  regulation  as  this  everywhere.  But 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  357 

electricity  seems  now  fast  coming  to  their  relief. 
And  on  the  steam  roads,  a  "  guard  "  looks  into  each 
car  apartment  to  see  that  all  is  right,  before  starting. 

As  the  Captain  had  promised,  we  arrived  in  Liv- 
erpool on  New  Year's  Day,  1884.  And  partly  for 
the  purpose  of  making  a  little  break  in  the  journey, 
I  remained  there  a  week,  and  then  took  passage 
for  New  York  in  a  large  and  well-appointed  mail 
steamer.  We  sailed  on  the  8th,  and  the  next  day 
touched  at  Queenstown,  where  we  lay  four  or  five 
hours  for  the  purpose  of  taking  in  the  part  of  the 
mail  that  had  not  been  received  at  Liverpool,  some 
passengers  and  freight. 

I  was  greatly  struck  by  the  magnitude  of  the  cor- 
respondence between  the  Old  World  and  the  New. 
An  American  mail  closes  at  Liverpool  and  Queens- 
town  three  times  a  week.  Our  ship  took  that  of 
Tuesday,  and  by  a  fair  estimate  it  amounted  to  not 
less  than  seven  hundred  bushels. 

Queenstown  is  quite  a  picturesque  place,  with  its 
hilly  background  and  capacious  harbor,  in  which 
may  usually  be  seen  a  number  of  noble  ships.  The 
adjacent  hills  were  quite  green,  though  it  was  near 
mid-winter,  and  although  the  latitude  is  considerably 
farther  north  than  New  England,  the  moderate  tem- 
perature is  attributable,  no  doubt,  to  the  proximity 
of  the  Gulf  Stream.  Just  before  dark,  in  drizzling, 
disagreeable  weather,  we  steamed  away,  and  were 
soon  rolling  upon  the  broad  Atlantic. 

There  were  on  board  some  two  hundred  steerage 


35§  LEGACY    OF   AN   OCTOGENARIAN. 

passengers  of  both  sexes  and  all  ages.  I  had  the 
curiosity  several  times  to  visit  their  quarters,  and 
must  say  that  I  can  hardly  understand  how,  with 
the  accommodations  they  have,  they  can  be  brought 
over  at  such  low  prices.  They  furnish  their  own 
bedding  and  table  utensils,  such  as  they  are  —  per- 
haps a  tin  pot,  tin  plate,  knife  and  fork  and  spoon. 
The  ship  furnishes  the  rest.  The  food  provided  is 
good  and  plentiful.  The  bread  is  made  from  the 
same  kind  of  flour  and  as  well  baked  as  the  bread 
upon  the  saloon  tables.  Meat,  tea  and  coffee  are 
supplied  every  day,  and  at  all  times  any  one  can 
resort  to  the  open  barrel  of  sea-biscuit  that  stands 
in  a  common  passage. 

Of  course  the  privacy  of  home  cannot  be  had 
under  the  circumstances,  but  care  is  taken  to  en- 
force the  best  regulations  that  can  be  established. 
All  have  sense  enough  to  realize  the  necessity  of 
submitting  to  inconveniences  and  endeavor  to  re- 
press over-fastidious  notions,  if  any  they  have. 
And  the  time  is  usually  passed  in  social,  not  per- 
haps really  refined  employments  and  recreations. 
In  my  visits  I  fell  in  with  a  number  who  by  their 
native  good  sense,  education,  natural  refinement 
and  delicacy  of  feeling  seemed  much  better  fitted 
for  the  saloon  than  some  of  those  who  quartered 
there.  Among  them  were  a  number  of  bright  and 
intelligent  children,  and  the  young  folk  sometimes 
seemed  to  have  right  jolly  times. 

The  saloon  passengers,  about  forty  in  number, 
formed  a  cheerful  and  social  company.  There 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  359 

were  two  or  three  clergymen  among  the  number, 
and  on  the  two  Sundays  impressive  religious  ser- 
vices were  held.  There  was  a  piano  in  the  saloon 
and  plenty  of  good  players  and  singers  —  at  least 
in  their  own  estimation. 

Few  vessels  are  met  in  crossing  the  Atlantic  in 
comparison  with  the  numbers  seen  on  the  Mediter- 
ranean, and  there  is  not  near  so  much  to  attract  at- 
tention and  interest.  The  sea  was  propitious  and 
the  temperature  mild  most  of  the  time  till  we  neared 
the  American  coast.  But  an  inhospitable  snow- 
storm greeted  our  arrival  at  New  York. 

DIFFICULTIES    OF    LANGUAGE. 

IT  MAY  be  well  to  say  something  regarding  the 
difficulties  that  the  traveller  unacquainted  with  any 
language  but  his  own  may  encounter.  The  per- 
plexity is  seldom  so  formidable  as  the  inexperienced 
imagine.  In  almost  every  place,  English-speaking 
people  can  readily  be  found,  especially  at  the  large 
hotels  and  about  the  principal  railroad  stations. 

In  Paris,  English  was  altogether  spoken  at  the 
end  of  the  hotel  table  where  I  sat,  and  in  Brussels 
almost  all  the  attendants  could  to  some  extent  speak 
the  language.  I  noticed  at  Antwerp  in  the  railroad 
station  —  and  I  presume  the  custom  is  the  same  in 
many,  if  not  most  other  large  places  —  directions 
to  the  different  offices,  waiting  rooms  and  pas- 
sages posted  in  three  or  four  languages.  I  have 
elsewhere  alluded  to  this  as  well  as  to  the  facility 
with  which  a  lady  passenger  at  the  Belgian  frontier 


360  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

relieved  me  from  the  clutches  of  a  custom  house 
officer. 

Lounging  about  the  little  depot  at  the  battlefield 
of  Waterloo,  I  found  several  who  could  speak  suffi- 
cient English  to  be  understood,  especially  when  de- 
sirous of  pressing  their  services  as  guides,  or  when 
the  question  of  a  "  tip"  became  involved. 

In  one  of  the  Brussels  lace  factories  the  polite 
proprietor,  being  unable  from  his  deficiency  in  Eng- 
lish to  answer  some  of  my  inquiries,  called  his 
pretty  young  daughter,  who  proved  quite  equal  to 
the  task  and  as  we  here  and  there  paused  to  examine 
some  of  the  beautiful  fabrics,  she  would  archly 
adorn  her  person  with  the  prettiest,  just  to  show  the 
manner  of  wearing,  though  possibly  with  the  latent 
design  of  beguiling  me  into  a  purchase. 

At  the  various  railroad  stations  could  almost  al- 
ways be  found  hack  drivers  who  knew  enough 
English  to  give  general  directions,  and  they  were 
usually  polite  and  respectful.  And  if  this  were 
the  proper  place  I  should  much  like  to  say  a  few 
words  about  carriage  fares.  They  are  generally 
lower  than  with  us  and  there  is  little  danger  of  being 
imposed  upon,  the  laws  being  stringent  and  rigidly 
enforced.  It  is  not  easy  to  say  what  might  other- 
wise be  attempted,  as  human  nature  is  pretty  much 
the  same  among  all  people,  hackmen  notexcepted. 
Not  once  while  abroad  did  I  suffer  imposition  from 
one  of  them.  But  .within  half  an  hour  after  land- 
ing in  New  York,  on  my  return,  there  was  a  bare- 
faced attempt  by  a  hackman  at  the  pier,  who  prob- 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  361 

ably  took  me  to  be  an  inexperienced  foreigner  just 
over,  to  swindle  me  out  of  a  couple  of  dollars.  I 
was  glad  enough  that  some  European  travellers 
with  whom  I  was  associated  on  shipboard,  who  had 
with  provoking  pertinacity  insisted  that  in  America 
the  unwary  traveller  was  subjected  to  every  species 
of  petty  fraud  and  imposition,  and  whose  slanders 
I  had  often  taken  upon  myself  to  combat,  were  not 
present  to  witness  my  discomfiture  under  such  an 
untoward  incident. 

Perhaps  by  giving  a  few  simple  details  touching 
my  first  trip  to  Antwerp,  a  sufficient  idea  of  the  little 
embarrassments  respecting  language,  most  com- 
monly experienced  by  the  unaccompanied  traveller, 
may  be  obtained. 

On  reaching  the  railroad  station  in  Brussels  to 
take  the  cars  for  Antwerp,  I  found  two  or  three 
trains  apparently  firing  up  for  different  destinations, 
and  being  afraid  of  taking  the  wrong  one,  kept 
making  inquiries  which  no  one  seemed  to  under- 
stand. Finally,  seeing  a  conductor  on  the  platform 
talking  with  a  passenger,  I  hastened  to  him  but 
was  not  understood.  The  gentleman  with  whom 
he  was  talking,  however,  immediately  pointed  to 
one  of  the  trains  saying  in  very  good  English, 
"  That  is  the  Antwerp  train,  and  I  am  going  in  it." 
We  took  seats  in  the  same  compartment  and  he 
kept  up  a  brisk  conversation  in  French  with  the  only 
other  passenger  in  the  compartment  but  courteously 
answered,  in  English,  all  my  inquiries  about  lodg- 
ings and  other  accommodations  in  Antwerp,  being 


362  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

evidently  familiar  with  the  city.  But  notwithstand- 
ing his  politeness  he  did  not  very  favorably  impress 
me,  though  perhaps  I  misread  his  facial  lines. 

Arrived  at  Antwerp,  a  young  fellow  at  the  station 
took  my  luggage  and  conducted  me  to  a  lodging 
house  near  by.  I  inquired  at  the  office  if  there 
was  any  one  about  who  could  speak  English.  A 
young  lady  was  presently  introduced  as  one  accom- 
plished in  the  mysteries  of  that  tongue.  But  I  soon 
found  that  though  she  knew  some  English  words 
she  had  a  most  incomprehensible  way  of  putting 
them  together.  However,  she  was  good-natured 
and  smiling ;  and  as  I  was  in  like  agreeable  trim 
we  got  along  pretty  well  till  her  store  of  English 
began  to  fail  and  then  our  interview  ended  by  a 
laugh  in  each  other's  face.  I  presently  afterwards 
by  accident  found  that  the  presiding  feminine  gen- 
ius of  the  culinary  department  —  for  there  was  a 
restaurant  connected  with  this  establishment  —  could 
speak  better  English  than  any  of  the  others,  and 
on  several  occasions  found  it  expedient  to  avail  my- 
self of  her  aid,  though  her  accomplishments  in  that 
line  were  by  no  means  brilliant.  At  the  outset 
however  I  inadvertently  came  near  forfeiting  her 
good  graces,  for,  being  much  in  want  of  a  good 
meal,  on  my  arrival,  I  asked  for  a  beefsteak,  which 
was  in  due  time  set  before  me  smoking  hot.  But 
the  cooking  was  so  different  from  what  I  desired 
that  I  was  obliged  to  send  it  back  untasted  and  con- 
tent myself  with  a  cold  cut.  The  next  morning  I 
met  her  ladyship  in  a  passage  way,  and  on  being 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  363 

asked  what  I  wished  for  breakfast  replied  that  a 
good  beefsteak  would  be  about  the  right  application 
for  the  internal  craving.  "Yes,"  said  she  with  a 
majestic  toss  of  the  head,  "  I  had  one  cooked  for 
you  yesterday,  but  you  sent  it  back  without  eating 
a  morsel."  Realizing  that  my.  future  gastronomic 
welfare  while  there  might  depend  upon  the  diplo- 
macy of  that  critical  moment,  I  sought  to  mollify 
her  by  conceding  that  the  steak  was  unexampled 
both  in  quality,  cooking  and  manner  of  service, 
yet,  coming  from  a  land  where  such  high  art  had 
not  been  attained,  and  being  too  old  to  fall  into  new 
ways,  I  hoped  for  a  little  indulgence.  The  frown 
was  immediately  succeeded  by  a  smile,  and  on 
explaining  how  I  desired  the  cooking  done  I  was 
graciously  assured  that  I  should  be  suited.  And  I 
was  suited  ;  and  never  afterwards  while  remaining 
had  occasion  to  find  half  so  much  fault  with  her 
cooking  as  with  her  English. 

While  pacing  the  deck  of  the  steamer  from  Ant- 
werp on  the  passage  down  the  Scheldt,  on  that  de- 
lightful evening,  I  fell  into  conversation  with  a  young 
lady  passenger,  who  remarked  that  she  had  travelled 
nearly  all  over  the  continent,  alone  ;  and  though 
unacquainted  with  any  language  but  the  English, 
had  experienced  no  difficulty  in  making  a  very  sat- 
isfactory tour  —  comfortable  and  enjoyable. 

A  great  many  in  the  Eastern  countries  are  able 
to  make  themselves  understood  in  several  languages, 
though  perhaps  unable  to  speak  any  with  gram- 
matical precision.  It  is  interesting,  as  elsewhere 


364  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

remarked,  to  hear  lads  on  the  playground  carrying 
on  their  little  dealings  and  disputes  in  all  sorts  of 
languages,  and  to  observe  when  one  is  not  under- 
stood how  many  little  tongues  are  ready  to  interpret. 

Algiers  being  in  a  French  dependency,  the  pre- 
vailing European  language  is  of  course  French,  but 
the  native  tongue  seems  to  be  a  sort  of  mongrel 
Arabic.  During  my  short  stay  there,  however,  I 
came  across  several  residents  who  could  speak  very 
fair  English,  among  them  a  trader  in  monkeys ; 
but  I  did  not  test  his  ability  to  interpret  the  animated 
discoursings  of  his  chattering  stock  in  trade,  who 
seemed  anxious  to  enlighten  me  on  some  topic. 

What  is  called  the  Maltese  language  is  said  to  be 
derived  from  the  Arabic  and  Carthagenian.  Italian 
is  much  spoken  on  the  island  of  Malta,  in  some  cases 
in  great  purity,  and  most  of  the  streets  retain  the 
old  Italian  names,  as  Strada  Mercanti,  Strada  Reale, 
Strada  St.  Orsola.  I  remember  seeing  but  one 
street  in  Valetta  with  an  English  name,  and  that  a 
short  and  obscure  one.  This  seems  a  little  remark- 
able, as  the  island  has  been  a  British  possession 
ever  since  1814.  Of  course  English  is  very  much 
spoken,  and  French  is  yet  quite  common,  as  Bona- 
parte was  inclined  to  Frenchify  all  his  territorial 
acquisitions. 

I  recollect  several  interesting  interviews  with  a 
resident  of  Tunis,  who  could  speak  only  Arabic 
and  Hebrew.  But  gestures  and  head-shakings 
were  resorted  to  when  words  failed.  And  then 
there  are  certain  undefinable  utterances  which  all 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  365 

men  seem  to  intuitively  understand,  somewhat  per- 
haps as  the  lower  animals  apparently  understand 
certain  cries  of  each  other.  We  managed  to  hold 
animated  discussions.  He  was  evidently  a  man  of 
culture,  with  rational  and  comprehensive  views  of 
passing  events,  but  in  his  religious  faith,  which 
was  not  the  Christian,  he  was  stern  and  uncom- 
promising. 

I  often  found  it  convenient,  when  desiring  to  visit 
a  particular  place  or  object,  to  write  down  the  name 
and  with  an  interrogative  gesture  show  it  to  some 
intelligent  looking  passer.  True,  this  seemed  a 
little  like  a  deaf  and  dumb  proceeding,  but  it  is 
not  remembered  that  it  failed  in  a  single  instance. 

Another  thing  I  soon  found  to  be  advisable,  and 
that  was  to  use  as  few  words  as  possible  in  making 
an  inquiry.  For  instance,  when  in  Cairo,  Egypt, 
I  wished  to  go  to  the  Alexandria  railroad  station. 
It  was  a  long  wray  from  the  hotel  and  I  preferred 
walking,  as  the  route  would  take  me  through  inter- 
esting parts  of  the  city.  On  my  declining  either 
to  mount  a  donkey  or  take  a  carriage,  the  host  very 
kindly  conducted  me  to  one  of  the  pretty  squares, 
pointed  out  the  general  direction,  and  with  a  cor- 
dial "  bonjour"  left  me  to  my  fate.  Apprehend- 
ing that  there  was  no  time  to  lose,  I  was  anxious 
to  keep  on  the  right  track,  and  so  did  not  hesitate 
to  make  frequent  inquiries.  My  first  question 
would  be  "  Sir,  do  you  speak  English?"  If  I  recol- 
lect aright  a  negative  shake  of  the  head  was,  with- 
out an  exception,  the  response.  I  would  then 


366  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

pronounce,  distinctly,  the  two  words,  "Alexandria, 
railway."  These  were  always  understood  and  the 
right  course  kept.  But  if  I  had  been  so  polite  as 
to  have  touched  my  hat  and  said  "  Sir,  will  you 
please  to  inform  me  if  I  am  on  the  right  road  to 
the  Alexandria  railway  station,  as  I  wish  to  go  to 
that  city?"  I  should  probably  have  confused  the 
listener  and  received  a  confused  answer  if  any  at  all. 

And  again,  while  strolling  about  in  the  great 
Parisian  cemetery,  Pere  La  Chaise,  I  had  a  desire 
to  see,  among  other  resting  places  of  notable  dead, 
that  of  Abelard  and  Heloise,  historical  personages 
by  the  way,  distinguished  rather  for  the  pathetic 
romance  than  the  moral  grandeur  of  their  lives, 
and  had  no  difficulty  in  finding  it,  by  simply  pro- 
nouncing the  names  "Abelard,  Heloise,"  with  an 
interrogative  intonation,  to  some  one  of  the  numerous 
visitors  or  laborers  met  at  every  turn. 

At  the  hotel  table  in  Cairo  several  languages 
were  spoken  and  among  them  good  English  was 
constantly  heard.  Indeed  I  was  surprised  to  find 
how  many  about  the  city  could  speak  the  language, 
and  how  proud  some  of  them  seemed  to  be  of  the 
accomplishment.  In  passing  through  the  Egvptian 
Bazaar,  I  fell  in  with  a  trader  who  was  quite  vain 
of  his  poor  English,  and,  as  before  stated,  insisted 
on  my  sitting  down  for  a  talk  in  his  little  shop  where 
he  sat  curled  up,  tailor  fashion.  He  was  a  genial, 
good-natured  fellow,  and  his  shrewd  remarks,  often 
gently  spiced  with  sarcasm,  and  always  amusing 
from  his  misuse  of  words,  were  quite  enjoyable. 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  367 

As  I  was  leaving  he  advised  me  to  go  round  to  the 
Turkish  Bazaar,  if  I  desired  to  see  more  of  the 
stirring  business  life  of  Cairo.  And  I  took  his 
advice. 

Two  or  three  of  the  Arabs  at  the  Pyramids  knew 
sufficient  English  to  be  very  well  understood. 

But  enough  of  personal  experience. 

Steamships,  railroads,  telegraphs  and  the  various 
other  modern  devices  that  so  facilitate  international 
intercourse,  are  doing  a  great  deal  towards  the  re- 
moval of  the  impediments  of  language.  And  it 
seems  almost  certain  that  the  time  is  not  far  distant 
when  the  curse  of  Babel  will  no  longer  obstruct 
the  traveller's  way. 

It  has  not  been  presumed  in  the  foregoing  to 
make  any  special  suggestions  for  the  traveller's 
guidance.  The  details  might  have  been  much  en- 
larged and  made  to  relate  to  places  of  perhaps 
greater  interest  to  some,  but  on  the  whole  a  fair 
showing  is  believed  to  have  been  given.  The  pur- 
pose will  have  been  accomplished  if  something  of 
a  just  idea  is  imparted  of  what  any  one,  who  ven- 
tures alone  into  foreign  lands  with  practically  no 
knowledge  of  any  language  but  his  own,  is  pretty 
sure  to  encounter.  And  in  connection  with  that 
purpose  it  has  been  attempted  to  give  a  glimpse  of 
the  civilities  one  may  reasonably  be  expected  to 
meet  with.  The  traveller's  own  bearing,  however, 
must  necessarily  have  much  to  do  with  the  manner 
in  which  he  will  be  received.  It  is  not  well  to  be 
afraid  or  suspicious  of  persons  merely  because  they 


368  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

are  strangers;  and  arrogance  or  "  cheek"  are  not 
winning  characteristics.  But  this  remark  will  apply 
as  well  to  conduct  at  home  as  abroad. 

What  has  been  said  cannot  of  course  be  of  any 
great  value  to  travellers  of  large  experience,  nor 
to  those  proficient  in  different  languages,  but  the 
great  body  of  the  people  belong  to  neither  of  those 
classes. 

A  few  hints  regarding  the  influence  American 
travellers,  especially  those  of  the  gentler  sex,  are 
beginning  to  exercise  on  the  old  world  people,  may 
not  be  out  of  place  here. 

The  wonderful  increase  of  means  among  our 
people,  and  the  wonderfully  increased  facilities  for 
foreign  travel,  have  induced  countless  numbers  of 
our  people  to  spend  their  vacations  abroad.  And 
by  such  means  America  is  certainly  making  a  more 
sensible  impression  in  the  wrorld  than  ever  before. 
Our  countrymen  and  countrywomen  are  to  be  found 
everywhere  and  their  influence  is  felt  among  all 
classes.  But  none  are  destined  to  exercise  a  greater, 
more  enduring  and  creditable  influence  than  our 
loyal  young  jwomen.  These,  it  may  be  said  in  a 
general  way,  are  from  among  the  better  educated, 
not  always  the  most  wealthy  ranks ;  teachers,  and 
those  preparing  to  meet  the  ever-increasing  require- 
ments of  our  educational  institutions  being  largely 
represented. 

And  there  is  another  and  more  interesting  chan- 
nel through  which  some  of  the  rovers  of  the  gentler 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  369 

sex  ultimately  exercise  a  most  potent  influence  upon 
society  abroad.  Numbers  are  every  year  captured 
in  the  matrimonial  lists.  The  influence  of  these 
in  social  life  is  beginning  to  be  quite  apparent.  As 
a  general  thing  our  American  daughters  retain  a 
love  for  their  native  land  and  allegiance  to  her  in- 
stitutions, more  deep  and  constant  than  do  those  of 
the  other  sex,  be  it  said  to  the  shame  of  the  latter. 
There  is  not  half  the  snobbishness  among  American 
women  abroad  that  there  is  among  American  "  gen- 
tlemen." Why,  some  of  the  American  wives  of 
Englishmen  are  real  missionaries  in  the  spreading 
of  American  principles,  social  and  political,  to  say 
nothing  of  American  briskness  and  conceit.  And 
it  is  quite  apparent  that  the  freshness,  strength  and 
energy  of  character  engendered  by  these  conjugal 
alliances  are  rapidly  imparting  a  vivifying  and 
abiding  power  in  many  an  old  community.  Most 
people  do  not  realize  how  many  American  girls  be- 
come the  wives  of  Europeans.  But  if  the  number 
were  much  smaller  than  it  is,  we  have  the  comfort- 
ing assurance  that  even  a  little  of  such  efficient 
leaven  may  leaven  a  large  lump. 

And  here  perhaps  a  general  remark  or  two  about 
travel  may  prove  useful.  We  hear  a  great  deal  about 
"  Personally  Conducted  Tours,"  "  Educational  Ex- 
cursions," and  so  forth,  and  probably  all  understand 
what  the  terms  mean,  for  they  are  quite  as  commonly 
used  in  Europe  as  in  America.  There  are  advan- 
tages and  disadvantages  in  those  modes  of  travel. 


370  LEGACY    OF   AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

Among  the  advantages  may  be  reckoned  the  op- 
portunities for  that  social  intercourse  which  may 
relieve  many  an  hour  that  otherwise  would  hang 
heavily.  And  to  go  a  little  farther,  it  may  be  said 
that  friendships  thus  formed  may  prove  enduring 
and  valuable,  for  we  must  not  think  that  those  we 
call  old  friends  are  always  the  best,  or  that  there 
are  not  others  in  the  world  that  we  may  love  as 
well,  when  we  come  to  know  them  as  well. 

And  then  the  excursion  party  usually  has  what 
is  called  a  personal  conductor  who  is,  or  should  be, 
by  education,  address  and  activity,  competent  to 
give  all  necessary  information,  and  carry  out  all 
necessary  arrangements.  The  advantage  here  is 
that  the  traveller  is  relieved  from  anxiety  about  his 
luggage  and  his  personal  accommodations,  has  one 
to  explain  matters  to  him,  to  direct  his  attention  to 
objects  of  the  greatest  interest,  and  provide  the 
means  for  reaching  them ;  in  short  to  relieve  him 
from  the  necessity  of  making  numerous  inquiries 
and  puzzling  over  the  answers.  The  advantages 
are  readily  perceived.  But  for  them  the  excursion- 
ist has  to  pay,  and  at  a  rate  not  trifling  to  one  of 
limited  means. 

Among  the  disadvantages  may  be  mentioned  the 
rapidity  with  which  the  companies  travel ;  a  rapidity 
which  fatigues  some  and  disappoints  others.  A 
wearied  person  cannot  enjoy  much  and  a  hurried 
one  chafes.  The  pauses  are  so  short  and  the  op- 
portunities for  examining  so  brief,  that  in  too  many 
cases  only  a  confused  idea  of  things  can  be  obtained. 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  371 

Then  again,  all  members  of  the  party  are  treated 
as  if  their  tastes  and  desires  were  alike.  If  one 
departs  from  the  prescribed  track,  he  does  it  at  his 
own  expense  and  often  inconvenience ;  he  follows  a 
prearranged  programme  ;  is  taken  to  visit  such  and 
such  things — those  that  every  traveller  has  seen 
and  many  have  described ;  things  which  indeed  he 
should  see,  while  there  are  others  not  in  the  pro- 
gramme that  he  should  not  leave  unseen.  His  taste 
and  inclinations  may  be  constantly  fettered.  He 
may  desire  to  perambulate  the  poorest  streets  as  well 
as  the  best,  and  witness  the  scenes  therein,  by 
which  means  alone  can  he  get  a  just  idea.  And  if 
he  always  feels  hurried  to  keep  step  with  the  com- 
pany to  which  he  belongs,  he  may  get  embarrassed 
and  confused  rather  than  informed  and  enlightened. 
It  is  a  great  mistake  to  suppose  that  in  the  com- 
panies alluded  to  one  can  travel  cheaper  than  in 
any  other  way.  He  is,  as  before  remarked,  relieved 
from  many  cares  and  annoyances,  but  there  is  such 
a  thing  as  being  too  much  relieved.  Little  cares 
often  serve  to  make  one  more  wakeful  and  observ- 
ing. And  then,  as  before  intimated,  he  has  to  pay 
for  his  immunity ;  a  fact  of  which  any  one  may 
satisfy  himself,  in  any  given  case,  by  carefully  ex- 
amining the  "  tourist"  circular.  In  the  excursion 
parties  the  cost  is  not  often  less  than  seven  dollars 
per  day,  and  frequently  more.  But  no  traveller  in 
Europe  need  spend  more  than  five  dollars  per  day 
and  have  all  his  needs  supplied  in  good  shape.  Of 
course  I  am  not  here  speaking  of  railroad  excursion 


372  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

tickets  or  things  of  that  sort,  nor  of  what  have  come 
to  be  called  independent  tourist  tickets  ?  that  is,  in- 
dependent of  companies. 

There  is  a  great  deal  of  misleading  talk  about 
"  first-class"  travel,  relief  from  fees,  and  so  forth. 
In  regard  to  the  latter,  it  may  be  remarked  that  for 
a  large  portion  of  the  sights  which  the  tourist  may 
be  supposed  most  desirous  of  seeing,  no  fees  are 
required  —  such  as  the  British  Museum,  the  Tower 
in  London,  and  the  Louvre  in  Paris.  And  there  is 
much  to  be  seen  in  all  continental  cities  on  the 
same  terms,  to  say  nothing  of  the  grand  cathedrals 
and  famous  churches,  which  may  be  visited  without 
money  and  without  price. 

Some  of  the  circulars  speak  of  paying  carriage 
hire  in  the  cities,  from  place  to  place,  as  if  that 
were  a  matter  of  importance.  Why,  there  are 
street-cars  and  omnibuses  running  in  all  directions, 
as  cheaply  as  with  us.  And  cab  hire  is  systematized 
and  cheap.  Then  as  to  the  fees  of  servants  and 
others,  that  is  a  nuisance  of  which  I  have  before 
spoken,  and  which  seems  abating  —  perhaps  through 
the  influence  of  Americans,  who  are  getting  to  treat 
it  as  entirely  discretionary  and  comply  or  not,  ac- 
cording to  circumstances. 

In  regard  to  the  large  item  of  railroad  conveyance, 
and  the  boast  that  everything  is  "  first  class,"  one, 
who  has  had  experience  in  all  classes  of  cars, 
would  be  apt  to  say,  "  a  fig  for  your  first  class." 
In  the  old  countries,  doctors,  lawyers,  store-keepers 
and  mechanics  commonly  travel  in  the  second  class. 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL.  373 

That  class  is  run  by  the  same  engine  and  the  cars 
are  about  as  comfortable  as  the  first,  while  the  fare 
is  much  less.  The  laboring  people  of  course 
generally  travel  in  the  third  class,  but  it  should  be 
borne  in  mind  that  the  peasantry  seldom  travel  at 
all,  so  if  their  company  is  disagreeable  there  is  not 
much  of  it  Where,  by  the  very  texture  of  govern- 
ment, social  distinctions  exist,  there  must  necessarily 
be  in  some  way  a  recognition  of  those  distinctions. 
But  here,  in  the  matter  of  railroad  travel,  the  dis- 
tinction seems  to  be  rather  in  price  than  any  other 
particular.  The  nobility,  no  doubt,  think  it  becomes 
their  dignity  to  keep  aloof  from  the  common  peo- 
ple, and  if  they  are  willing  to  pay  for  the  show, 
let  them  have  it.  But  a  common  man  should 
remember  that  rubbing  against  nobles  does  not 
make  him  a  noble.  It  has  come  to  be  a  frequent 
saying  that  none  but  the  aristocracy,  Americans 
and  fools,  ride  in  first-class  cars.  I  have  travelled 
in  cars  of  the  three  grades,  and  must  say  that  the 
difference  is  but  little  if  judged  by  the  company 
alone. 

True,  in  most  cases,  I  believe,  where  a  part  of 
the  journey  is  by  steamer,  none  but  first-class  tick- 
ets entitle  one  to  saloon  privileges ;  but  in  many,  if 
not  all  cases,  by  a  small  additional  payment  on 
board,  the  best  accommodations  may  be  secured. 
And  in  this  connection  it  may  be  remarked  that 
public  conveyances  there  are  never  over-crowded. 
A  street-car,  for  instance,  can  only  take  a  number 
that  can  be  seated.  There  is  no  cramming,  as  with 


374  LEGACY    OF    AN    OCTOGENARIAN. 

us,  and  it  often  happens  in  an  omnibus  that  there 
is  not  "  room  enough  for  one  more*." 

And  now  a  word  or  two  touching  the  real  useful- 
ness of  hotel  coupons,  as  they  are  called,  issued  by 
the  "tourist"  companies.  They  insure  accommo- 
dations when  perhaps  it  would  be  difficult  to  get 
well  served  without  them.  But  for  them  one  must 
pay  pretty  well  —  not  exorbitantly.  In  Brussels, 
however,  I  was  told  that  if  I  paid  in  money,  as  I 
wished  to  do,  I  should  have  to  pay  more  per  day 
than  if  I  paid  with  my  coupons ;  the  reason  for 
which  I  cannot  yet  understand,  and  feel  quite  sure 
that  it  most  frequently  works  the  other  way.  Quite 
likely  I  was  misunderstood. 


PART    III. 
BIOGRAPHICAL  NOTICES. 


INTRODUCTION   TO   PART   THIRD. 


IN  THE  notices  of  the  intended  publication  of  "The 
Legacy  of  an  Octogenarian  "  the  Author  announced  that 
Part  Third  would  consist  of  Recalled  Fugitives,  or  a  collec- 
tion of  pieces,  chiefly  short  stories,  which  had  appeared 
in  various  publications  during  his  life.  As  this  collection 
of  fugitive  pieces  and  poems  was  not  historical,  and  for 
the  most  part  these  sketches  were  unlike  the  general  style 
of  this  book,  and  as  the  "  Octogenarian  "  had  been  mak- 
ing preparations  for  the  publication  of  this  autobiography 
almost  to  the  day  of  his  illness,  it  was  thought  more  fitting 
to  use  the  larger  portion  of  the  space  allotted  for  Part 
Third  by  arranging  as  a  biography  the  kind  and  apprecia- 
tive words  and  estimates  of  his  contemporaries,  written 
and  spoken  within  so  few  days  of  the  time  when  he  was 
forced  to  lay  aside  his  pen  forever.  These  words  seem 
almost  as  the  continuation  of  his  book,  and  very  appropri- 
ate for  its  completing  pages. 

The  useful,  quiet,  unobtrusive  life  of  Judge  JAMES 
ROBINSON  NEWHALL  ended,  on  Tuesday  morning,  Octo- 
ber 24th,  1893.  His  estimable  and  kind-hearted  wife, 
Elizabeth  Campbell  Newhall,  daughter  of  Hon.  Josiah 
Newhall  and  Lydia  (Johnson)  Newhall,  survived  him  and 
lived  until  Tuesday  evening,  May  26th,  1896. 

The  biographical  notices  here  collected  and  arranged 
indicate  the  respect  in  which  both  were  held,  the  useful  and 
public-spirited  lives  they  aimed  to  live,  and  their  thoughts 
for  all  that  would  contribute  to  the  good  of  the  citizens 


378  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

of  the  city  in  which  they  passed  the  greater  portion  of 
their  lives. 

In  a  spirit  of  justice,  appreciation,  and  recognition  of 
public  service,  words  are  here  recorded  which  the  modesty 
of  the  "  Octogenarian "  would  have  forbidden  him  to 
have  said  for  himself.  They  are  tributes  to  the  "  Legacy  " 
he  has  left  to  the  sons  and  daughters  of  Lynn  all  over 
the  United  States,  by  preserving  in  his  historical  writings 
for  all  time  so  much  that  is  valuable  for  reference,  reflec- 
tion, and  instruction  in  the  history  and  traditions  of  one 
of  the  oldest  settlements  in  the  American  Republic. 

ISRAEL  AUGUSTUS  NEWHALL. 
HOWARD  MUDGE  NEWHALL. 


PART  II L  — Biographical  Notices. 


(Daily  Evening  Item,  Lynn,  Mass,  October  24,  1893.) 

EDITORIAL. 


JUDGE  JAMES  R.  NEWHALL,  the  historian  of 
Lynn,  passed  peacefully  away  at  his  home  at  five 
o'clock  this  morning.  As  a  printer,  lawyer,  judge 
and  author  his  life  has  been  a  busy  and  useful  one. 
He  has  written  more  than  a  dozen  volumes,  some 
of  which  have  had  a  wide  circulation  and  received 
the  most  flattering  notices  of  critics  in  the  United 
States  and  England.  He  never  lost  his  love  for  the 
printer's  case,  and  he  put  in  type  at  his  home,  dur- 
ing leisure  hours,  several  of  his  larger  works.  He 
has  been  a  contributor  to  almost  every  newspaper 
ever  published  in  Lynn,  and  often  remarked  that 
he  "  considered  it  a  religious  duty"  to  aid  the  local 
press  in  every  way  in  his  power.  Perhaps  Lynn 
has  never  had  a  citizen  more  widely  known  through 
a  long  life,  and  certainly  none  more  universally 
respected. 


380  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

(Daily  Evening  Item,  Lynn,  Mass.,  October  24,  f8gj.) 

JAMES   ROBINSON   NEWHALL. 

The  Historian  of  Lynn  passes  away  in  his  eighty-fourth  year. 
— Judge  of  Lynn  Police  Court  for  a  long  term  of  years. 
—  Sketch  of  his  life  and  public  service. 


JUDGE  JAMES  ROBINSON  NEWHALL,  lawyer, 
printer  and  historian,  ended  a  life  of  usefulness 
at  five  o'clock  this  morning,  at  his  stone  house  on 
Sadler's  Rock,  on  Walnut  street,  in  the  eighty- 
fourth  year  of  his  age.  For  the  past  few  years, 
although  his  mental  activity  was  in  no  wise  dimin- 
ished and  his  writings  showed  no  loss  of  their 
charms,  his  bodily  health  has  been  hardly  as  strong 
as  his  friends  could  wish,  a  gradual  failing  having 
set  in.  A  week  ago  last  Friday  he  contracted  a 
severe  cold  which  medical  skill  was  unable  to  shake 
off,  and  from  its  effects,  together  with  his  decreasing 
strength,  he  passed  quietly  to  the  end. 

His  last  public  appearances  were  at  the  reception 
tendered  him  by  the  Lvnn  Bar  Association,  of 
which  he  was  a  most  honored  member,  and  also  three 
years  ago  last  Christmas,  when  he  was  given  a  re- 
ception, by  the  citizens  of  Lynn,  at  the  Mayor's 
office,  in  the  City  Hall,  on  the  afternoon  of  the 
anniversary  of  his  eightieth  birthday,  an  occasion 
that  was  most  noteworthy. 

James  Robinson  Newhall  was  born  in  Lynn, 
December  25,  1809,  in  the  old  Hart  house  that  stood 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES.  381 

on  the  corner  of  Boston  and  Federal  streets.  He 
was  a  lineal  descendant  from  Thomas  Newhall, 
the  first  white  child  born  in  Lynn,  in  the  sixth  gen- 
eration. His  mother  was  Sarah  Hart,  a  descendant 
of  Samuel  Hart,  one  of  the  first  engaged  at  the 
ancient  iron  works  near  Saugus  river,  the  first  in 
America.  Both  his  grandmothers  were  grand- 
daughters of  Ebenezer  Burrill,  conspicuous  in  co- 
lonial times. 

In  1824  he  entered  the  office  of  the  Salem  Gazette 
as  an  apprentice  to  the  printer's  trade.  After  work- 
ing in  Salem  a  few  years  he  went  to  Boston,  and 
before  attaining  his  majority  he  was  installed  fore- 
man of  one  of  the  largest  book  offices.  While  still 
under  age  he  went  to  New  York  and  found  employ- 
ment in  the  Conference  office,  where  he  won  the 
reputation  of  being  the  fastest  compositor  on  the 
paper. 

At  the  age  of  twenty-two,  Mr.  Newhall  returned 
to  Lynn  and  obtained  work  on  the  Mirror,  the  first 
newspaper  in  Lynn,  established  in  1825.  In  a 
short  time  the  Mirror  died  and  he  bought  the  ma- 
terial and  started  the  Record  which  soon  followed 
the  fate  of  its  predecessor.  He  at  one  time  held 
an  editorial  position  on  a  New  York  daily  paper. 
During  his  residence  in  the  metropolis  he  enjoyed 
the  friendship  of  Walt  Whitman,  Major  Noah,  and 
other  distinguished  members  of  the  press. 

In  1844  ne  turned  his  attention  to  law  and  was 
admitted  to  the  Bar  in  1847,  and  commenced  the 
practice  of  his  profession  in  Lynn.  In  1849  ne 


382  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

was  made  Special  Justice  of  the  Lynn  Police  Court, 
and  in  1866  he  was  commissioned  Judge  and  held 
the  office  thirteen  years.  He  was  President  of  the 
Common  Council  in  1852,  and  has  served  as  Chair- 
man of  the  School  Committee. 

In  the  autumn  of  1883  he  visited  Europe,  Algiers, 
Cairo  and  the  Egyptian  Pyramids.  He  published 
in  1836  the  "  Essex  Memorial ;"  in  1862,  "  Lin,  or 
Jewels  of  the  Third  Plantation;"  in  1865,  "The 
History  of  Lynn ;"  in  1883  an  additional  volume  of 
History;  in  1876  he  prepared  the  "Centennial 
Memorial  of  Lynn;"  in  1879,  "Proceedings  in 
Lynn,  June  17,  1879,  being  the  Two  Hundred  and 
Fiftieth  Anniversary  of  the  Settlement."  He  has 
also  contributed  valuable  sketches  to  the  "  History 
of  Essex  County,"  and  was  an  occasional  writer  for 
the  local  press. 

Judge  Newhall  never  forgot  his  skill  as  a  printer, 
having  in  his  house  a  font  of  type,  from  which  it 
was  his  custom  to  set  up  the  books  he  published,  so 
that  they  were  not  only  the  products  of  his  brain 
and  pen,  but  of  his  "  stick  and  type."  He  was  for 
several  years  the  honored  President  of  the  Lynn 
Press  Association,  the  members  finally  giving  a 
very  reluctant  consent  to  his  resignation. 

In  October,  1837,  he  was  united  in  marriage  with 
Dorcas  B.  Brown,  the  only  daughter  of  Capt.  W. 
B.  Brown,  of  Salem,  and  by  her  had  one  son,  who 
died  at  the  age  of  ten,  his  mother  having  died  soon 
after  his  birth.  In  1853  he  was  again  married,  the 
second  wife  being  widow  Elizabeth  Campbell, 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES.  383 

daughter  of  the  late  Hon.  Josiah  Newhali,  father 
of  Harrison  Newhali. 

In  1854  ne  erected  the  stone  dwelling-house  on 
the  base  of  Sadler's  Rock,  near  the  junction  of 
Walnut  and  Holyoke  streets,  a  point  not  only  of 
great  historic  interest,  but  affording  extensive  and 
delightful  views. 

Judge  Newhali  was  one  of  the  earliest  members 
of  St.  Stephen's  Episcopal  Church.  In  politics  the 
Judge  was  counted  with  the  Democrats. 


(Lynn  Daily  Press,  October  24,  1893.— Editorial.) 

JUDGE  NEWHALL  is  DEAD. 


BY  THE  death  of  JUDGE  JAMES  R.  NEWHALL 
Lynn  loses  a  citizen  of  whom  she  was  justly  proud. 

Judge  Newhali  was  the  descendant  of  one  of  the 
oldest  Lynn  families,  and  his  life  and  services  have 
always  been  closely  connected  with  the  city  of  his 
birth.  To  him  Lynn  owes  the  continuance  of  the 
work  which  was  begun  by  Alonzo  Lewis — that  of 
compiling  an  accurate  and  reliable  local  history. 
Indefatigable  in  his  researches,  and  always  sound 
in  his  judgment,  Judge  NewhalPs  ready  and  bril- 
liant imagination  enabled  him  to  present  dry  mat- 
ters of  record  in  an  entertaining  form  without  ex- 
aggeration or  too  fanciful  word-painting.  "The 


384  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

History  of  Lynn  "  is  a  great  work,  and  of  a  much 
higher  standard  than  most  local  histories. 

Not  less  enduring,  in  a  literary  sense,  are  his 
pictures  of  the  colonial  times,  in  which  he  showed 
marked  ability  in  combining  fact  with  fiction,  and 
throwing  the  glamor  of  romance  over  commonplace 
incidents,  in  a  manner  which  was  as  instructive  as 
it  was  interesting.  But  it  is  not  only  as  an  author 
that  Judge  Newhall's  memory  is  entwined  with  the 
history  of  Lynn.  With  the  press  and  the  bar  he 
is  also  identified,  and  his  demise  is  felt  by  the  mem- 
bers of  both  institutions  to  which  he  was  a  credit 
and  an  ornament. 

Judge  Newhall  is  dead.  His  death  is  a  public 
loss.  Few  men  live  to  see  their  reputation  in  the 
higher  walks  of  life  fully  established ;  and  the 
venerable  citizen's  fame  will  probably  be  greater 
after  his  death  than  during  his  life.  He  leaves  be- 
hind him  a  memory  which  inspires  respect  and 
affection  in  all  his  fellow  citizens ;  and  the  name 
of  James  R.  Newhall  will  go  down  to  posterity  as 
that  of  one  of  whom  not  a  word  of  harm  and  much 
of  good  could  be  said. 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES.  385 

(Lynn  Daily  Press,  October  24,  1893.) 

JUDGE  NEWHALL  DEAD. 

He  calmly  passed  aivay  early  this  morning. —  One  of  Lynrfs 
most  honored  and  respected  sons. —  The  life  story  of  a 
'•'•Good  and  Faithful  Servant'1'1  briefly  told. 


JUDGE  JAMES  R.  NEWHALL  died  at  his  home  in 
this  city  at  five  o'clock  this  morning,  aged  eighty- 
three  years  and  ten  months.  His  death  was  the 
result  of  a  severe  cold  and  chill  contracted  a  week 
ago  and  which  was  not  considered  likely,  at  the 
time,  to  prove  fatal. 

He  had,  however,  been  for  some  time  in  delicate 
health,  and  this,  coupled  with  his  advanced  age, 
made  it  impossible  for  him  to  rally  from  a  sickness 
which  to  a  younger  and  more  robust  man  would 
not  have  been  serious. 

James  R.  Newhall,  the  historian  of  Lynn,  was 
born  in  Lynn,  on  Christmas  day,  1809,  in  the  old 
Hart  house  that  stood  on  Boston  street,  at  the  south- 
west corner  of  Federal,  the  same  which,  on  the 
Centennial  Fourth  of  July,  1876,  disappeared  in 
patriotic  blaze,  to  the  cheers  of  young  America. 

All  his  genealogical  lines  run  back  to  early  Lynn 
settlers.  His  father  was  Benjamin  Newhall,  who 
was  born  in  1774  and  died  in  1857  ;  Benjamin's 
father  was  James,  born  in  1731,  died  in  1801  ; 
James'  father  was  Benjamin,  born  in  1698,  died 
1763  ;  Benjamin's  father  was  Joseph,  born  in  1658, 


386  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

died  1706;  Joseph's  father  was  Thomas,  born  in 
1630,  died  in  1687  — the  first  white  child  born  in 
Lynn. 

His  mother  was  Sarah,  a  daughter  of  Joseph 
Hart,  who  descended  from  Samuel,  one  of  the  first 
engaged  at  the  ancient  iron  works  established  near  the 
Saugus  river  in  1643,  said  to  be  the  first  in  America. 

Both  his  grandmothers  were  granddaughters  of 
Hon.  Ebenezer  Burrill,  so  conspicuous  in  colonial 
times  as  a  representative  and  crown  counselor,  who 
was  a  brother  of  John  Burrill,  the  eminent  speaker, 
whom  Governor  Hutchinson  compared  with  Sir 
Arthur  Onslow,  who  was  considered  the  most  able 
presiding  officer  the  British  House  of  Commons 
ever  had. 

At  the  age  of  eleven  young  Newhall  left  the 
paternal  roof,  with  his  worldly  effects  tied  up  in  a 
pocket  handkerchief,  to  make  his  way  in  the  world. 
His  mother  had  died  a  year  or  two  previous,  leaving 
his  father  with  a  large  family  to  provide  for. 

In  the  summer  of  1824,  he  entered  the  Salem 
Gazette  office  to  learn  the  art  and  mystery  of  print- 
ing. Previous  to  this  by  dint  of  hard  work  and 
study  he  had  managed  to  acquire  a  very  fair  educa- 
tion. 

After  serving  in  the  Gazette  office  a  few  years  he 
felt  desirous  of  acquiring  a  better  knowledge  of 
book  printing  than  could  be  done  in  Salem  at  that 
time,  and  accordingly  procured  a  situation  in  Bos- 
ton, where  he  so  prospered  that  before  attaining  his 
majority  he  was  installed  foreman  in  one  of  the 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES.  387 

principal  book  offices  there,  his  duties  in  a  general 
way  being  to  direct  the  work  and  read  the  proofs. 

While  still  under  age,  in  the  roving  spirit  of  young 
printers,  he  drifted  to  New  York  and  found  em- 
ployment in  the  Conference  office;  the  largest  then 
in  the  city,  where  he  soon  acquired  the  reputation 
of  being  the  fastest  type  setter  in  the  establishment. 
This  was  in  1829,  and  until  recently  he  so  indulged 
his  early  love  for  the  printer's  case  as  to  keep  a 
font  or  two  of  type  wherewith  to  amuse  and  occupy 
his  leisure  hours. 

At  the  age  of  twenty-two  Mr.  Newhall  returned 
to  his  native  place  and  engaged  in  the  office  of  the 
Mirror,  the  first  printing  establishment  in  Lynn, 
which  had  been  commenced  and  was  at  that  time 
owned  and  conducted  by  Charles  F.  Lummus,  who 
did  not  succeed  in  making  the  venture  profitable, 
and  sold  the  plant  to  Mr.  Newhall,  who  commenced 
the  publication  of  another  paper  only  to  meet  with 
the  same  discouragement  as  his  predecessor. 

After  busying  himself  a  few  years  in  various 
ways,  chiefly  in  connection  with  printing  and  once 
or  twice  taking  a  lecturing  tour,  he  found  himself 
again  in  New  York  engaged  in  the  editorial  depart- 
ment of  a  daily  journal  and  in  writing  for  one  or 
two  weeklies.  At  that  time  Walt  Whitman,  the 
since  world-renowned  poet,  was  engaged  on  the 
same  daily. 

In  1844  Mr.  Newhall  entered  the  office  of  a  friend 
who  was  a  member  of  the  Essex  Bar  to  undertake 
the  study  of  law.  In  May,  1847,  he  was  admitted 


388  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

to  the  Bar,  and  at  once  commenced  to  practice  in 
Lynn,  where  he  soon  secured  a  very  satisfactory 
clientage.  He  was  commissioned  Justice  of  the 
Peace  and  Notary  Public,  and  on  the  twenty-fourth 
of  August,  1866,  he  was  commissioned  as  Judge 
of  the  Lynn  Police  Court  with  which  he  had  been 
connected  as  Special  Justice  from  the  time  of  its 
establishment  in  1849.  He  was  also  appointed  a 
Trial  Justice  of  juvenile  offenders  when  that  jurisdic- 
tion was  established.  He  resigned  the  judgeship 
August  24,  1879. 

In  the  autumn  of  1883,  at  the  age  of  seventy- 
three  years,  he  took  a  tour  of  several  months  abroad, 
visiting  a  number  of  famous  cities  and  renowned 
places  in  Europe  and  Africa. 

#         #         #          *         # 

Since  his  early  manhood  Judge  Newhall  was  the 
staunch  and  loving  friend  of  the  Episcopal  Church 
of  Lynn,  and  increasing  years  served  only  to  in- 
tensify this  devotion.  It  may  be  said  that  he  was 
the  connecting  link  between  the  former  churches  of 
that  denomination  in  this  city  and  the  present  con- 
gregation of  St.  Stephen's,  and  at  one  time  and 
another  during  his  life  he  had  filled  every  position 
of  trust  in  the  church  of  which  a  layman  could  be 
eligible.  In  the  earlier  days  of  the  church  in  Lynn 
he  frequently  officiated  at  the  desk  in  the  absence 
of  regular  clergymen,  and  as  lately  as  three  years 
since  he  one  Sabbath  conducted  the  services  at  St. 
Stephen's  when  an  expected  clergyman  was  not 
able  to  come. 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES.  389 

Personally  Judge  Newhall  was  a  most  lovable 
and  genial  man  and  his  views  on  questions  of  poli- 
tics and  religion  were  singularly  broad  and  forbear- 
ing. 

It  is  well  known  that  local  historical  writings  are 
not  generally  remunerative  to  the  author,  but  such 
was  Judge  Newhall's  interest  in  all  that  pertained 
to  the  welfare  of  Essex  County  in  general  and  the 
city  of  Lynn  in  particular  that  he  gave  freely  of 
his  time,  talents  and  money  to  the  historical  re- 
searches, of  which  the  works  mentioned  above 
were  the  valuable  fruition.  Only  a  few  days  before 
the  beginning  of  his  fatal  illness  he  honored  this 
office  with  a  call,  and  was  at  that  time  engaged  in 
making  preparations  for  the  publication  of  his  two 
latest  contributions  to  the  literature  of  Lynn,  of 
which  editorial  mention  was  made  in  The  Press  as 
follows  : 

Judge  James  R.  Newhall,  the  venerable  historian  of  Lynn, 
has  recently  completed  two  new  works,  the  "  Legacy  of  an  Octo- 
genarian," and  "  Colonial  Times,"  both  of  which  will  be  valuable 
contributions  to  the  literature  of  Lynn.  It  is  seldom  that  a 
writer  who  has  attained  the  age  of  eighty-two  continues  his 
literary  labor  as  Judge  Newhall  has  done,  and  the  books  will 
possess  an  additional  interest  from  this  fact.  Lynn  owes  a  debt 
of  gratitude  to  Judge  Newhall,  not  only  for  preserving  the 
records  of  Lynn  and  presenting  them  to  the  public  in  a  readable 
and  accurate  form,  but  also  for  his  delightful  pictures  of  the 
earlier  days  of  the  settlement.  He  has  rendered  to  us  the  same 
service  which  Sir  Walter  Scott  rendered  to  his  countrymen,  of 
depicting  the  manners  of  an  earlier  age,  which  otherwise  would 
have  been  lost.  The  aged  author's  name  is  itself  one  of  the 
brightest  "  Jewels  of  the  Third  Plantation." 


39O  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

At  the  time  of  his  death  he  was  a  member  of  the 
New  England  Historical  and  Genealogical  Society 
and  had  been  for  many  years. 

Judge  Newhall's  widow,  who  is  nearly  eighty 
years  of  age,  is  a  sister  of  Harrison  Newhall  of 
this  city,  with  whose  family  he  has  always  been 
closely  connected  by  the  ties  of  friendship  as  well 
as  marriage. 

Among  his  surviving  relatives  are  two  nieces, 
daughters  of  the  late  Francis  Newhall,  and  a 
nephew  and  nieces,  children  of  the  late  James  Dil- 
lon. 


(Daily  Evening  Item,  October  28,  1893.) 

LAID  AT  REST. 

Obsequies  of  Judge  James  R.  Neivhallat  St.  Stephens  Church. 

—  A  notable  assemblage  of  citizens  honors  his  memory. 

—  Impressive  Sermon  by  Rev.  James  H.  Van  Buren. 


THE  funeral  of  Judge  JAMES  ROBINSON  NEW- 
HALL  took  place  Friday  afternoon,  from  St.  Ste- 
phen's Church,  to  which  he  belonged  and  of  which 
he  had  been  an  active  member.  A  large  number 
of  relatives  and  friends  were  present  to  pay  the  last 
tribute  to  his  memory  and  gaze  for  the  last  time  on 
the  face  that  was  for  so  many  years  familiar  on 
Lynn's  streets.  They  came  from  all  stations  of 
life  and  of  all  ages  —  old  men  who  had  been  his 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES.  39! 

cherished  companions  in  his  boyhood  days  ;  middle- 
aged  men,  who  had  been  associated  with  him  in 
the  walks  of  business ;  young  men,  who  had  made 
his  acquaintance  in  his  latter  years,  and  had  been 
benefited  by  his  example  and  his  advice.  On 
reaching  the  church,  the  casket  was  borne  by  the 
pall  bearers  up  the  broad  aisle,  preceded  by  Rev. 
James  H.  Van  Buren  and  St.  Stephen's  surpliced 
choir,  to  the  chancel,  the  choir  chanting  "Lord, 
let  me  know  my  end."  After  the  reading  of  the 
Scriptures,  the  choir  sang  the  hymn  "Abide  with 
me,"  following  which  Rev.  Mr.  Van  Buren  as- 
cended the  pulpit  and  delivered  the  following  im- 
pressive eulogy  :  — 

"Lord,  who  shall  dwell  in  Thy  tabernacle ;  or  who 
shall  rest  upon  Thy  holy  hill?  Even  he  that  lead- 
eth  an  uncorrupt  life,  and  doeth  the  thing  which  is 
right,  and  speaketh  the  truth  from  his  heart.  (Prayer 
book  translation  of  Psalm  15  :  1,2.) 

"  In  all  their  perfection  of  beauty,  and  in  all 
their  wealth  of  meaning,  these  words  gather  up  the 
thoughts  that  are  in  our  hearts  to-day.  They  tell, 
as  no  other  words  can  tell,  the  impression  that  was 
conveyed  by  the  most  casual  acquaintance  with  him 
whom  we  are  gathered  here  to  honor  with  the  last 
tribute  of  our  affection.  And  that  impression  was 
one  which  the  closer  and  better  and  longer  acquaint- 
ance served  only  to  intensify. 

"  How  often  during  the  past  few  days  have  we 
spoken  and  heard  others  speak  of  him,  in  substance 


392  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

if  not  in  form,  just  these  things  which  the  Psalm- 
ist has  grouped  together.  Other  excellent  traits 
were  prominent  in  his  life,  other  elements  of  beauty 
and  of  strength  were  in  his  character ;  but  these 
were  conspicuous  without  display  and  appeared 
without  ostentation.  He  led  an  uncorrupt  life;  he 
did  the  thing  that  was  right ;  he  spoke  the  truth 
from  his  heart. 

"Men  might  discover  many  ways  in  which  these 
underlying  influences  gave  shape  and  direction  to 
his  course,  as  they  met  him  in  relations  of  dearer 
and  nearer  intimacy ;  but  no  one  could  meet  him 
in  any  relation  without  being  conscious  of  the 
presence  of  these,  the  ruling  purposes  of  his  life. 

"It  would  be  interesting  to  trace  out  in  all  that 
he  said  the  unfolding  of  these  principles ;  but  this 
is  not  the  time,  nor  is  mine  the  hand  for  attempting 
such  a  work. 

"Elsewhere  and  by  other  hands  the  salient  feat- 
ures and  events  of  his  career  have  been  recorded 
in  the  published  accounts  that  have,  with  wise 
discrimination,  recited  the  story  of  his  many  years 
of  public  and  private  life.  I  must  content  myself 
with  saying,  as  I  pass  over  unmentioned  all  the  in- 
cidents and  services  of  the  many  and  eventful 
years  which  gave  him  the  place  he  holds  in  the 
honor  and  affection  of  this  community,  I  must 
content  myself  witfr^aying  that  those  public  services 
and  private  virtues  were  none  other  than  the  princi- 
ples of  his  life  would  have  led  us  to  expect. 

"  He  gave  his  services  as  freely  as  he  gave  the 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES.  393 

kind  word  that  was  always  ready  to  his  lip ;  the 
virtues  of  his  character  came  forth  as  spontaneously 
as  the  well-remembered  greeting  that  spoke  in  his 
voice  and  looked  out  of  his  eyes. 

"And  this  thought  guides  me  in  selecting  among 
the  words  that  I  must  leave  unspoken.  There  have 
been  men  of  as  great  integrity,  sincerity  and  truth 
as  his,  whom  one  could  honor  without  a  feeling  of 
affection;  there  have  been  men  also  as  good  and 
as  gentle  as  he,  whom  one  could  love  without  think- 
ing of  rendering  them  the  highest  tribute  of  honor. 
But  here  was  one  who  possessed  the  rarer  combina- 
tion of  gifts  that  called  forth  from  all  who  knew 
him  both  honor  and  love. 

"  If  I  may  illustrate  this  from  the  familiar  scenes 
of  our  parish  life,  there  are  two  especial  points  of 
contact  where  the  honor  and  the  affection  in  which 
he  was  held  were  clearly  perceived.  One  was 
evident  in  the  interest  he  always  took  in  the  choir 
and  its  members,  the  other  was  in  that  accustomed 
duty  in  which  we  were  wont  to  see  him,  Sunday 
after  Sunday,  when,  with  so  much  dignity  and 
reverence,  he  came  forward  as  an  officer  of  the 
parish  to  present  the  offerings  of  the  congregation. 
It  is  a  sorrow  to  think  that  in  the  annual  choir 
gatherings,  where  old  and  young  alike  were  always 
so  glad  to  welcome  him,  he  will  appear  no  more ; 
it  is  a  grief  to  think^hat  when  he  was  with  us  two 
Sundays  ago  in  the  service  it  was  for  the  last  time. 

"But  it  will  be  well  to  think  of  these  places  that 
knew  him  so  well,  if  while  they  know  him  no 


394  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

more,  they  illustrate  the  affection  and  the  honor 
that  belong  to  him.  It  will  be  well,  too,  if  they 
remind  us  that  the  place  he  held  in  the  hearts  of 
his  associates  here  in  the  church  was  one  of  the 
fruits  of  his  many  years  of  devotion. 

"  His  membership  in  the  parish  spans  the  whole 
history  of  St.  Stephen's  Church,  and  a  friend  re- 
minds me  that  he  is  the  last  one  of  the  men  who 
connect  the  present  parish  with  its  origin. 

"I  am  sure  the  thought  needs  no  suggesting 
from  me  :  how  much  we  owe  to  that  group  of  faith- 
ful ones  who  have  handed  down  their  trust  to  us  of 
th«  younger  generation. 

"  God  grant  that  we  may  be  as  well  qualified  as 
they  were  to  keep  that  which  is  committed  unto  us. 
God  grant  that  this  life,  which  we  have  been  per- 
mitted to  see  and  to  know,  may  teach  us  that  there 
can  be  no  other  answer  to  the  question  of  our  text, 
save  the  answer  that  is  given  there  :  —  *  Lord,  who 
shall  dwell  in  Thy  tabernacle  ;  or  who  shall  rest  upon 
Thy  holy  hill?  Even  he  that  leadeth  an  uncorrupt 
life  and  doeth  the  thing  that  is  right,  and  speaketh 
the  truth  from  his  heart.' 

"Of  the  sincerity  of  his  religious  convictions 
and  of  his  sound  churchmanship  no  one  could  ever 
raise  a  question ;  yet  with  all  his  own  firmness  of 
principle  and  belief,  he  never  failed  in  considerate 
and  courteous  regard  for  other  men's  opinions. 
His  life  was  a  witness  to  the  beauty  of  holiness, 
and  when  the  inconsistencies  of  Christian  people 
were  spoken  of,  one  needed  only  to  mention  his 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES.  395 

name  to  silence  all  cavils  and  end  all  argument. 
In  other  words,  his  was  a  life  and  a  character  that 
commended  the  gospel  to  men's  respect ;  for  they 
saw  that  the  source  of  his  integrity  and  the  secret  of 
his  strength  were  in  that  God  whom  he  found  while 
he  'dwelt  in  the  tabernacle, 'and  in  that  communion 
of  the  church  which  was  his  while  he  '  rested  on 
God's  holy  hill.' 

"And  may  I  not  add,  brethren,  that  such  lives 
among  our  devoted  and  intelligent  laity,  are  more 
eloquent  than  any  sermons  the  clergy  can  preach  ? 

"It  was  not  strange  that  our  dear  friend  loved 
the  warm  heart  of  nature  and  lived  where  he  could 
be  near  to  the  rock  and  the  forest,  and  in  sight  of 
the  shining  sea.  He  must  have  found,  as  on  the 
page  of  God's  own  Book,  many  a  message  there 
that  came  direct  from  God.  Perhaps  they  helped 
him  to  keep  to  the  end  that  gentle  and  unaffected 
bearing  which  won  for  him  a  place  in  every  heart ; 
that  simplicity  and  courtesy  which  made  him  so  care- 
ful to  give  no  needless  offence  in  anything  ;  that 
enthusiasm  which  was  so  marked  in  every  purpose 
that  engaged  his  interest. 

"Nor  is  it  strange  that  one  who  found  such 
delight  in  the  church,  which  is  the  body  of  Christ, 
should  have  loved  the  brotherhood  of  mankind  and 
rejoiced  to  do  for  it  every  service  in  his  power.  It 
was  as  truly  a  labor  of  love  for  him  to  search  out 
and  publish  the  history  of  his  city  as  it  was  in  his 
official  capacity  to  administer  its  laws  and  defend 
its  good  name.  If  he  was,  as  all  are  agreed  in 


396  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

calling  him,  a  good  citizen  of  the  earthly  country, 
that  was  his  way  of  translating  the  duties  of  good 
citizenship  in  the  heavenly.  And  if  you,  his  fellow 
citizens,  mourn  his  loss  in  the  one  relation,  we  also, 
his  fellow  citizens  in  the  church  and  household  of 
God,  share  with  you  in  a  common  sense  of  bereave- 
ment ;  the  same  gentle  dignity,  the  same  unobtru- 
sive charm  of  thought  and  action  which  were 
known  to  his  associates  in  the  legal  profession  and 
to  his  fellow  members  in  the  Printers'  Association, 
endeared  him  also  to  us  who  were  brought  into  his 
companionship  in  the  house  of  God.  And  there  is 
not  one  who  knew  him  in  any  of  these  relations 
who  does  not  agree  that  in  his  godly  life  and  con- 
versation, with  all  sincerity  and  humility,  and  with 
the  most  entire  absence  of  assertion  and  display, 
he  adorned  the  doctrine  of  our  Saviour  Jesus  Christ 
and  was  an  example  of  blameless  life. 

"  It  is  easier  than  it  would  otherwise  be  to  bring 
these  tender  reminiscences  to  a  close,  since  one 
knows  that  such  a  life  as  his  looks  forward  and  up- 
ward to  the  promised  continuance  in  the  nearer 
presence  of  the  risen  Lord.  To  such  as  he  the 
words  of  the  apostle  came  naturally  :  —  '  To  me  to 
live  is  Christ,  and  to'die  is  gain.'  He  has  entered 
into  the  clearer  light ;  things  that  he  believed  must 
be  to  him  now  things  that  are  better  understood 
and  known.  He  has,  in  a  ripe  and  good  old  age, 
begun  in  a  better  sense  to  dwell  in  the  tabernacle  of 
God  and  to  rest  upon  that  holy  hill  which  we  call 
Paradise. 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES.  397 

"  May  we  who  are  yet  in  our  pilgrimage  be  as 
careful  as  he  was  to  lead  an  uncorrupt  life,  to  do 
the  thing  which  was  right  and  to  speak  the  truth 
from  the  heart ;  so  shall  we  have  good  hope  and  be 
able  to  speak  words  full  of  consolation  to  those  who 
are  nearest  and  dearest  to  him,  even  the  hope  of  a 
blessed  reunion  with  all  who  have  gone  before,  in 
that  land  of  rest 

"Where  loyal  hearts  and  true 

Stand  ever  in  the  light, 
All  rapture  through  and  through, 
In  God's  most  holy  sight.' " 

At  the  close  of  the  sermon  the  choir  rendered  the 
hymn,  "  Hallelujah,  What  Are  These?  "  The  re- 
mains were  then  borne  to  the  vestibule,  the  choir 
singing  the  processional  hymn,  "O  Paradise." 
The  lid  of  the  casket  was  removed,  when  a  last  look 
was  taken  at  the  face  of  the  departed.  When  the 
last  friend  had  passed,  the  lid  was  replaced  and 
the  remains  tenderly  placed  in  the  hearse,  the  cor- 
tege then  proceeding  to  the  final  resting  place  in 
Pine  Grove  Cemetery.  Here  the  committal  ser- 
vice of  the  Episcopal  Church  was  read  by  Rev. 
Mr.  Van  Buren  and  the  casket  lowered  into  the 
grave,  upon  which  were  placed  the  handsome  floral 
offerings  sent  by  sorrowing  relatives  and  friends. 
Prominent  among  the  tributes  were  two  handsome 
sprays  of  white  roses,  each  containing  eighty-four 
blossoms,  emblematic  of  the  age  of  the  deceased, 
which  were  sent  by  the  Lynn  Press  x\ssociation  and 


398  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

the    Essex  County  Bar   Association,  and  a    large 
standing  cross  from  St.  Stephen's  vestrymen. 

The  pall  bearers  were,  for  St.  Stephen's  vestry, 
Thomas  B.  Knight  and  Judge  Rollin  E.  Harmon  ; 
for  the  Bar,  Dean  Peabody  and  William  H.  Niles ; 
for  the  Lynn  Press  Association,  Thos.  P.  Nichols 
and  Rufus  Kimball. 


(Daily  Evening  Item,  November  24,  i8gs.) 

JUDGE  NEWHALL'S  WILL. 

Several  public  bequests  of  great  value  to  the  city  in  a  historic 
point  of  view. 

HOWARD  MUDGE  NEWHALL  of  Lynn,  who  is  to 
be  the  executor  of  the  will  of  Hon.  James  R.  New- 
hall,  late  of  Lynn,  through  Niles  &  Carr,  has  filed 
the  will  of  Judge  Newhall,  and  his  petition,  in  ac- 
cordance with  the  provisions  of  the  will,  to  be  ap- 
pointed executor. 

The  only  provisions  in  the  will  that  are  of  inter- 
est to  the  public  are  as  follows  : 

"I.  Augustus  Newhall  and  Howard_Mudge  New- 
hall  are  given  all  the  stereotype  plates  of  his  differ- 
ent works,  together  with  all  other  property  and 
rights  pertaining  to  said  works,  and  Howard  Mudge 
Newhall  is  also  given  his  Colony  Records,  and  the 
rector  and  wardens  of  St.  Stephen's  Church,  and 
their  successors  in  office,  are  given  '  $250  in  trust, 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES.  399 

the  income  to  be  used  for  the  annual  presentations 
and  festivities  of  the  Sunday  School  or  choir,  at 
Christmas  tide,  as  the  trustees  may  direct ; '  and  the 
city  of  Lynn  is  devised  '  the  elevation  known  as 
Sadler's  Rock  with  suitable  bounds  and  ways  of 
access,  as  may  be  agreed  upon  by  the  executor  and 
the  grantees,  to  be  held  forever  by  the  city  as  a 
pleasant  resort  for  all  people ; '  and  his  widow, 
Elizabeth  C.  Newhall,  is  given  the  use,  income 
and  improvement  of  all  the  remainder  of  his  estate 
during  her  natural  life.  Upon  her  decease,  the 
remainder  of  the  estate  is  to  be  sold,  and  about 
$1200  is  to  be  distributed  among  his  nephews  and 
nieces,  and  the  remainder  is  to  be  given  in  equal 
parts  to  '  the  Lynn  Hospital  and  the  Lynn  Home 
for  Aged  Men,  to  be  used  in  the  furtherance  of 
their  benevolent  work.  " 


(Daily  Evening  Item,  November  27,  1893.) 

SADLER'S  Rock,  the  south-western  extremity  of 
Pine  Hill,  bequeathed  to  the  city  by  Hon.  James  R. 
Newhall,  is  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet  high,  and 
is  of  porphyry.  It  derived  its  name  from  Richard 
Sadler,  one  of  the  early  settlers  of  Lynn,  who  lived 
at  the  junction  of  Walnut  and  Holyoke  streets. 
He  was  the  first  Clerk  of  the  Writs,  whose  duties 
were  somewhat  analogous  to  those  of  Town  Clerk, 
and  was  at  one  time  Minister  to  England.  In  the 
division  of  lands,  in  1638,  "  two  hundred  acres  and 


4OO  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

the  rock  by  his  house,"  were  given  to  "  Mr.  Richard 
Sadler."  Judge  Newhall's  residence,  on  the  point 
of  the  rock,  was  built  in  1854,  from  stone  taken 
from  the  hill  above,  and  was  the  fourth  stone  house 
built  in  the  city. 


(The  Salem  Daily  Gazette,  June  13,  1894.) 

IMAGE  OF  A  GREEK  DOCTOR. 

Life-size  bust  of  Hippocrates  returned  to  Salem. 


"  MANY  of  Salem's  oldest  citizens  remember,  no 
doubt,  a  graven  image  that  for  many  years  stood 
complacently  looking  down  from  a  pillar,  perhaps 
eight  feet  high,  at  the  outer  edge  of  the  northerly 
side  of  Essex  street,  opposite  where  Mechanic  Hall 
stands,  and  in  front  of  an  apothecary  store,"  wrote 
the  late  Judge  James  R.  Newhall,  in  the  Salem 
Gazette  of  Nov.  13,  1885. 

The  image  itself  was  a  bust,  rather  exceeding 
common  life  size,  and  an  excellent  specimen  of 
wood  carving. 

On  three  sides  of  the  base  were  inscriptions  bear- 
ing the  name  of  Hippocrates,  the  ancient  Greek 
physician,  the  date  when  he  flourished,  and  two  or 
three  facts  in  his  history. 

The  style  of  letter  in  the  inscriptions  shows  the 
figure  to  be  quite  ancient,  and  it  is  reputed  to  have 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES.  401 

been  brought  from  some  foreign  land  by  one  of 
Salem's  noble  old  ships.  It  disappeared  from  its 
place  many  years  ago,  probably  when  the  present 
Hook  building  was  built  on  the  site  of  the  old 
wooden  building  that  stood  there.  The  exact  age 
of  the  image  cannot  of  course  be  given,  but  in  the 
Gazette  files  of  1773  and  1774  are  the  advertise- 
ments of  Nathaniel  Dabney,  who  kept  an  apothe- 
cary store  and  circulating  library,  "at  the  sign  of 
the  head  of  Hippocrates." 

How  many  years  the  image  had  then  been  in 
position  deponent  saith  not,  but  it  has  been  the 
subject  of  several  articles  from  those  interested  in 
antiquarian  lore. 

"  When  Mr.  Richard  S.  Fay  purchased  the  Lynn 
mineral  spring  property,"  says  Judge  Newhall, 
"  and  made  his  extensive  improvements  thereabout, 
the  image  was  placed  on  the  fanciful  little  dwelling 
erected  over  the  spring.  During  some  subsequent 
changes  it  disappeared  from  there,  and,  after  pass- 
ing an  interval  of  obscurity,  merged  forth  as  pre- 
siding over  a  store  in  Munroe  street,  Lynn. 

"  From  there  it  suddenly  disappeared,  and  passed 
another  interval  of  retirement.  Missing  my  old 
friend  from  the  lodgment  in  Munroe  street,  I  made 
diligent  inquiry,  and  finally  learned  that  it  was 
stowed  away  among  other  abandoned  traps  in  the 
cock  loft  over  a  billiard  saloon  in  a  building  on 
Market  street.  Obtaining  permission  to  appropriate, 
and  a  ladder  to  recover  it,  I  rescued  it  from  its 
ignoble  seclusion.  It  is  an  uncommonly  good  speci- 


4O2  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

men  of  wood  carving,  and  has  a  carefully  adjusted 
crown  piece  of  lead,  as  if  the  artist  intended  to 
guard  against  brains  getting  out  or  worms  getting 
in,  and  as  an  ideal  representative  of  an  ancient 
philosopher  and  scientist,  with  flowing  beard  and 
thoughtful  brow,  is  very  striking.  It  has  attracted 
considerable  attention,  and  the  inquiries  and  com- 
ments of  learned  and  unlearned  observers  have 
sometimes  been  diverting." 

Judge  Newhall  died  in  Lynn,  October  24,  1893. 
On  May  22,  Mr.  Howard  Mudge  Newhall,  the 
executor  of  the  Judge's  estate,  wrote  to  the  editors 
of  the  Gazette  saying  that  Mrs.  Newhall  desired 
to  present  the  image  to  the  historical  society  that 
had  corresponded  with  Judge  Newhall  regarding 
it.  The  Gazette  referred  the  letter  to  Hon.  Robert 
S.  Rantoul,  T.  Frank  Hunt  and  Secretary  Henry 
M.  Brooks  of  the  Essex  Institute,  and  a  correspon- 
dence was  at  once  opened  with  Mr.  Newhall,  with 
the  result  that  the  image  is  now  in  the  possession 
of  the  Institute.  It  is  somewhat  covered  with  "  the 
dust  of  ages,"  but  it  will  be  cleaned  and  repainted, 
and  soon  will  adorn  one  of  the  shelves  of  the  rooms, 
already  so  rich  with  material  that  delights  the  heart 
of  the  antiquary. 

In  Hawthorne's  posthumous  work,  the  "  Dolliver 
Romance,"  in  the  first  chapter,  is  an  allusion  to  the 
image.  The  great  romancer  in  one  of  his  short 
sketches  relates  that  a  boy  was  sent  to  the  store  with 
the  sign  of  the  head  of  Hippocrates  to  get  some 
medicine.  The  lad  returned  empty  handed,  saying 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES.  403 

that  he  "  could  n't  find  no  store  with  no  hypocrite's 
head." 

Now  that  the  image  has  at  last  found  a  perma- 
nent home,  it  is  possible  that  its  real  age  may  be 
learned,  as' well  as  the  name  of  its  maker. 


(From  the  Historical  Collections  of  the  Essex  Institute,  Vol.  XXX,  1893.) 

JAMES  ROBINSON  NEWHALL. 

PRINTER,   LAWYER,  JUDGE  AND   HISTORIAN. 

A  memorial  address  by  Nathan  M.  Hawkes.  Delivered  before 
t/ie  Lynn  Press  Association  at  Lynn,  Mass.,  upon  the  an- 
niversary of  Benjamin  Franklin 's  birthday,  Jan.  77,  1894. 


Mr.  President  and  Gentlemen  of  the  Lynn  Press 
Association : 

THE  kind  invitation  to  join  you  at  your  annual 
gathering  upon  Franklin's  birthday  gives  me  the 
fittest  occasion  that  could  occur  to  pay  a  tribute  to 
the  memory  of  your  first  President. 

I  use  the  word  "fittest  "  deliberately,  and  if  you 
have  patience  to  bear  with  me,  and  if  I  make  my- 
self intelligible,  you  will  appreciate  why  I  consider 
this  the  place  to  speak  of  your  and  my  life-long 
friend. 

JAMES  ROBINSON  NEWHALL,  who  died  at  his  home 
in  Lynn,  October  24,  1893,  needs  no  eulogium 
from  those  who  survive  him.  He  has  left  behind 


404  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

him  a  record  that  will  shine  when  we  and  our  words, 
even  though  they  should  be  strikingly  brilliant, 
shall  be  utterly  forgotten.  This  will  happen,  not 
because  he  was  a  great  man  in  any  common  accep- 
tation of  the  term,  but  mainly  by  virtue  of  the  fact 
of  his  making  a  more  diligent  use  of  the  talent  in- 
trusted to  him  than  most  men. 

A  study  of  such  a  life,  so  well  rounded  out  and 
accomplished,  if  even  imperfectly  traced,  cannot 
but  be  an  incentive  to  emulation  by  others. 

To  say  that  he  was  born  of  "  poor  but  honest" 
parents  would  be  but  to  utter  a  truism  which  might 
as  well  be  uttered  of  any  boy  born  in  Lynn  on 
Christmas  day,  1809.  Everybody  in  Lynn  then 
was  poor,  if  by  poor  we  mean  the  reverse  of  the 
modern  sense  of  rich  —  that  is,  being  the  holder 
of  stocks,  bonds  or  bank  accounts.  Everybody  was 
poor  in  those  days.  The  States  had  scarcely  rallied 
from  the  drain  of  men  and  means  that  was  occa- 
sioned by  the  War  of  the  Revolution,  when  the 
gigantic  struggle  between  England  and  the  Corsican 
marvel  of  war  convulsed  the  whole  civilized  world. 
Between  the  upper  and  nether  millstones  —  the 
common  prey  of  France  and  England  —  the  grow- 
ing commerce  of  the  infant  republic  was  swept 
from  the  seas  and  the  whole  country  was  impover- 
ished. Two  years  before,  Congress  had  closed  the 
ports  of  the  United  States  against  the  clearance  of 
all  vessels.  In  the  year  of  his  birth,  Congress  re- 
pealed the  "embargo  law"  and  substituted  an  act 
of  non-intercourse  with  France  and  England. 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES.  405 

The  population  of  Lynn  —  and  Lynn  then  in- 
cluded Lynnfield,  Saugus,  Swampscott  and  Nahant 

—  at  the  time    of  his   birth  was    only  about   four 
thousand.     The  people  were  farmers   in   summer 
and  shoemakers  in  winter. 

The  shoes  made  here  in  1810  numbered  one  million 
pairs  and  were  of  the  value  of  eight  hundred  thou- 
sand dollars.  By  the  United  States  census  of  1890, 
it  appears  that  the  aggregate  value  of  goods,  shoes 
and  allied  industries,  amounted  to  over  thirty-one 
millions.  This  takes  no  account  of  the  new  industry, 
the  Thomson-Houston  Electric  Company,  which  in 
1892  produced  a  value  of  over  twelve  millions  of 
dollars  and  employed,  as  its  average  number  of 
hands  for  the  year,  four  thousand  people,  a  number 
equal  to  the  whole  population  of  the  town  in  1810. 

In  another  and  better  sense  than  the  possession 
of  mere  dollars  by  his  parents,  the  future  writer  of 
the  "Annals  of  Lynn"  was  fortunate  in  his  birth. 
With  a  modest  pride  in  the  stock  from  which  he 
sprang  —  without  which  he  would  have  been  un- 
fitted for  what  was  destined  to  be  his  magnum  opus 

—  he    said,    in    an    autobiographical    sketch,     his 
father's  name  was  Benjamin  and  he  was  a  direct 
descendant  from  Thomas,  the  first  white  person  born 
here.     His  mother  was  a  daughter  of  Joseph  Hart, 
who  descended  from  Samuel,  one  of  the  first  en- 
gaged   at   the    ancient  Iron  Works.     Both  of  his 
grandmothers  were  granddaughters  of  Hon.  Eben- 
ezer  Burrill,  a  man  conspicuous  in  colonial  times 
and  brother  of  the  beloved  speaker. 


406  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

In  the  old  Hart  house,  as  in  many  another  on  the 
old  colonial  highway  between  Salem  and  Boston, 
was  an  open  attic  with  boxes  and  barrels  filled  with 
quaint  and  curious  manuscripts  that  the  previous 
generations  of  occupants  had  left  behind  them. 
They  were  apparently  of  no  value,  yet  they  might 
be  title  deeds,  or  plans,  or  diaries,  or  papers  that 
some  time  might  be  called  for.  So  they  were 
bundled  away  into  the  unused  lumber  room  —  nest- 
ing places  or  food  for  mice  —  till  some  charmingly 
loquacious  Oldbuck  of  Monkbarnes  or  an  inquisi- 
tive boy  should  disturb  their  dusty  recess. 

Reminiscences  of  the  earlier  days  lingered  about 
this  old  house  when  the  Judge  came  upon  the  scene. 
Travellers  belated  or  hungry  on  the  way  from  Bos- 
ton to  the  east  often  found  shelter  and  food  beneath 
its  roof.  The  epicurean  Judge,  Samuel  Sewall  of 
the  Witchcraft  time,  has  recorded  in  his  diary  his 
entertainment  here  on  several  occasions.  Other 
guests  of  eminence  lingered  under  the  branches  of 
the  great  buttonwood  in  the  yard,  partook  of  the 
good  cheer  within  the  house  and  discussed  current 
topics.  Some  of  the  accumulating  paper  litter  that 
probably  troubled  the  careful  housewife,  though 
she  did  not  venture  to  burn  anything  of  writing, 
may  have  been  left  by  guests  and  thus  have  had  a 
wider  than  mere  local  interest. 

How  much  the  subject  of  our  sketch  found  in  the 
attic  he  never  told  anyone,  but  was  apparently  will- 
ing through  his  life  for  the  matter  to  remain  an 
open  question  to  mystify  his  readers.  I  have,  how- 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES.  407 

ever,  more  than  a  strong  suspicion  that  he  derived 
nothing  from  the  dead  written  hand. 

At  the  age  of  eleven,  as  he  wrote,  he  left  the 
parental  roof  with  his  wrorldly  possessions  in  a 
bundle-handkerchief  to  make  his  way  in  the  wide 
world,  his  mother  having  died  a  year  or  two  before 
and  his  father  having  a  large  family  to  provide  for. 

Before  he  was  fifteen  years  old  he  had  made  his 
way  into  the  office  of  the  Salem  Gazette  —  the 
leading  newspaper  establishment  in  the  county  — 
and  was  diligently  learning  the  art  and  mystery  of 
printing.  Seventy  years  later  he  was  true  to  his 
first  love  and  it  was  still  his  work  and  recreation  to 
set  type. 

We  talk  about  trades  nowadays ;  but  the  old 
phrase  "  art  and  mystery  "  is  vastly  more  appropri- 
ate, when  we  allude  to  the  assembling  of  little 
pieces  of  lead  in  such  a  manner  that  the  result  is 
the  expression  of  the  best  thought  of  the  brain  of 
man  on  the  fair-printed  page.  Where  else  are  the 
brain-work  and  the  hand-work  so  blended  in  such 
close  touch,  as  when  deft  fingers  transform  bits  of 
dull  lead  into  golden  thoughts  that  may  be  immortal  ? 

From  the  Gazette  office,  seeking  a  wider  knowl- 
edge of  book  printing  than  our  county  then  afforded, 
he  went  to  Boston,  where,  before  he  had  reached 
his  majority  he  became  foreman  of  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal book  establishments.  One  of  his  duties  in 
this  office  was  that  of  proof-reader  —  an  important 
step  in  the  practical  training  which  was  to  fit  him 
for  authorship. 


408  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

A  proof-reader  holds  a  delicate  and  responsible 
position.  Upon  his  shoulders  the  public  pile  errors 
of  omission  and  commission,  of  compositor  and 
author,  bad  spelling,  bad  grammar,  bad  rhetoric, 
bad  punctuation,  bad  spacing  and  the  myriad  flaws 
that  creep  into  printed  matter  unless  the  proof-reader 
is  Argus-eyed. 

In  the  latest  batch  of  published  letters  of  Horace 
Greeley,  there  is  one  addressed  to  a  young  man 
who  aspired  to  the  position  of  a  proof-reader  on 
the  Tribune.  Here  is  Mr.  Greeley's  appreciative 
tribute  to  the  occupation  of  a  proof-reader,  in  reply 
to  the  application  : 

"As  to  proof-reading,  I  think  a  first-rate  proof- 
reader could  always  find  a  place  in  our  concern 
within  a  month.  But  the  place  requires  far  more 
than  you  can  learn  ;  it  requires  an  universal  knowl- 
edge of  facts,  names  and  spelling.  Do  you  hap- 
pen to  know  off-hand  that  Stephens  of  Georgia 
spells  his  name  with  a  «  ph  '  and  Stevens  of  Michi- 
gan with  a  '  v'  in  the  middle?  Do  you  know  that 
Eliot  of  Massachusetts  has  but  one  « 1 '  in  his  name, 
while  Elliot  from  Kentucky  has  two  ?  Do  you  know 
the  politics  and  prejudices  of  Oliver  of  Missouri, 
and  Oliver  of  New  York,  respectively,  so  well  that 
when  your  proof  says  '  Mr.  Oliver '  said  so  and  so 
in  the  House,  you  know  whether  to  insert '  of  Mo.'  or 
'of  N.Y.'  after  his  name?  Would  you  choose  to 
strike  out '  of  Mo.'  and  put  in  *  of  N.Y.,'  if  you  per- 
ceive the  speech  taking  a  particular  direction  re- 
specting slavery,  which  shows  that  it  must  be 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES.  409 

wrongly  attributed  in  'the  telegraphic  dispatch? 
My  friend,  if  you  are  indeed  qualified  for  a  first- 
rate  proof-reader,  or  can  easily  make  yourself  so, 
you  need  never  fear.  But  do  n't  fancy  the  talent 
and  knowledge  required  for  a  mere  secretary  of 
state,  president,  or  any  such  trust,  will  be  sufficient." 

In  the  Boston  office,  the  young  Newhall  was  in 
touch  and  familiar  with  such  men  as  Dr.  Channing, 
Dr.  Bowditch,  Francis  J.  Grund,  the  Cambridge 
professors,  N.  P.  Willis,  Samuel  S.  Goodrich  and 
other  literary  celebrities  of  the  time,  of  whom  he 
treasured  many  pleasant  reminiscences  which  he 
had  in  manuscript  and  was  preparing  to  publish  at 
the  time  of  his  death. 

Like  other  young  printers  of  the  earlier  days,  he 
was  somewhat  of  a  rover.  From  Boston  he  went 
to  New  York.  In  the  Conference  office  of  that 
city,  then  the  largest  in  the  country,  he  had  the 
reputation  of  being  the  fastest  compositor  in  the 
office. 

In  New  York  he  did  editorial  work,  and  in  that 
city  he  learned  much  from  the  advice  and  friendly 
counsels  of  Major  M.  M.  Noah,  long  known  as  the 
Nestor  of  the  American  Press. 

Those  of  the  present  generation  who  have  seen 
the  Judge  on  the  Bench  of  the  Police  Court,  or 
assisting  in  the  offices  of  his  beloved  church,  or  in 
social  gatherings,  or  walking  about  our  streets,  can 
scarcely  realize  the  Bohemian  life  with  which  it  was 
his  fortune  to  mingle  in  his  early  manhood. 

Bearing  in  mind  that  he  was  free  from  the  venial 


4-IO  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

faults  of  youth,  that  all  his  life  he  was  pure  in 
thought  and  act,  it  sounds  like  romance,  to  relate 
that  one  of  his  companions  in  midnight  strolls  in 
New  York  was  the  "  Good  Gray  Poet,"  he  who 
wrote  "My  Captain,"  that  eloquent  lament  that 
marks  the  martyrdom  of  Lincoln,  in  which  were 
these  lines, 

"  Exult,  O  shores,  and  ring,  O  bells ! 

But  I,  with  mournful  tread, 
Walk  the  deck;  my  captain  lies 
Fallen,  cold  and  dead." 

and  the  same  who  wrote  of  himself, 

"Walt  Whitman,  a  kosmos,  of  Manhattan  the  son, 
Turbulent,  fleshy,  sensual,  eating,  drinking,  and 

breeding, 
No  sentimentalist,  no  stander  above  men  and 

women,  or  apart  from  them, 
No  more  modest  than  immodest." 

Like  that  other  printer,  "  Poor  Richard,"  the 
world-known  philosopher,  whose  birthday  you 
proudly  remember  to-day,  and  like  him  a  tramping 
printer  in  search  of  a  job,  Mr.  Newhall  wandered 
as  far  as  Philadelphia. 

He  gathered  knowledge  of  men  and  affairs 
wherever  he  went.  He  lectured.  He  came  back 
to  Lynn  and  bought  the  Mirror  of  his  friend, 
Charles  F.  Lummus,  the  first  Lynn  printer,  whose 
handsome  face  is  placed  beside  the  author  facing 
the  title  page  of  the  last  edition  of  the  "  History 
of  Lynn." 

It  was  in  1832   that   Mr.    Newhall    bought   the 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES.  4!  I 

Mirror,  the  first  paper  printed  in  Lynn.  It  may 
be  interesting  to  those  whose  daily  labor  is  about 
the  great  presses  and  establishments  of  to-day  to 
relate  that  he  paid  two  hundred  dollars  for  the 
whole  establishment,  which,  as  he  has  recorded, 
was  quite  as  much  as  it  was  worth. 

When  we  say  that  the  subscription  list  of  the 
Mirror  amounted  to  about  four  hundred,  which 
number  the  new  Item  press  throws  off  in  a  minute, 
and  that  all  the  work  in  the  office,  jobs,  newspaper 
and  all,  could  be  done  by  the  publisher  and  one 
hand,  it  is  easy  to  see  that  in  those  days  there  was 
not  a  mine  of  gold  or  even  of  silver,  in  a  Lynn 
newspaper. 

Not  the  least  of  the  debts  Lynn  owes  to  Mr. 
Newhall  is  the  kindly  discriminating  sketch  which 
he  has  given  us  of  Charles  F.  Lummus,  the  first 
publisher  and  editor  of  Lynn. 

The  profession  of  the  law,  in  which  he  settled 
down  at  last,  shows  something  of  the  growth  and 
broadening  of  Lynn  during  the  lifetime  of  one  in- 
dividual. In  1808,  the  year  before  his  birth,  Lynn's 
first  lawyer  came  to  town.  This  was  Benjamin 
Merrill.  He  remained  here,  however,  only  a  few 
months,  when  he  removed  to  Salem,  where  he  be- 
came an  ^minent  and  respected  practitioner.  In 
1845,  Harvard  conferred  upon  him  the  degree  of 
LL.D. 

Of  his  leaving  Lynn,  Mr.  Newhall  has  recorded, 
"The  occasion  of  his  removal  from  Lynn,  as  he 
informed  me,  a  few  years  before  his  death,  was 


412  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

somewhat  singular.  A  deputation  of  the  citizens 
called  on  him  with  the  request  that  he  would  leave 
the  place,  it  being  apprehended  that  evil  and  strife 
\vould  abound  wherever  a  lawyer's  tent  was  pitched. 
He  took  the  matter  in  good  part  and  soon  departed. 
The  people  of  Lynn  afterward  made  some  amends 
for  their  uncivil  proceeding,  by  intrusting  a  large 
share  of  their  best  legal  business  to  his  hands.  He 
served  them  faithfully,  and  never  seemed  to  enter- 
tain the  least  ill  feeling  towards  any  here.  He  died 
lamented  by  a  large  circle  who  had  received  bene- 
fits at  his  hand,  and  left  a  considerable  estate.  He 
was  never  married,  which  seemed  the  more  singu- 
lar, as  he  was  eminently  social  in  his  habits." 

In  May,  1847,  thirty-eight  years  later,  when  Mr. 
Newhall  was  admitted  to  the  bar  at  an  age  when 
most  lawyers  are  at  the  period  of  greatest  activity, 
there  were  only  three  lawyers  in  practice  here. 
They  were  Jeremiah  C.  Stickney,  Benjamin  F. 
Mudge  and  Thomas  B.  Newhall. 

Though  few  in  number  they  were  each  able  in 
their  special  lines  of  work.  Mr.  Mudge,  who  was 
the  second  mayor  of  Lynn,  had  an  extensive  prac- 
tice, but  his  love  for  science  was  greater  than  that 
for  the  law,  and  he  went  west  and  became  Professor 
of  Geology  and  Associated  Sciences  in  -the  State 
Agricultural  College  of  Kansas. 

Hon.  Thomas  B.  Newhall,  the  last  of  the  three, 
became  Judge  of  the  Lynn  Police  Court  upon  its 
creation  in  1849.  At  the  same  time  Benjamin  F. 
Mudge  and  James  R.  Newhall  were  commissioned 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES.  413 

as  Special  Justices.  Mr.  T.  B.  Newhall,  through  a 
long  life,  adorned  other  positions  of  trust,  such  as 
the  presidency  of  the  Lynn  Mutual  Fire  Insurance 
Company  and  the  Lynn  Five  Cents  Savings  Bank. 
He  has  the  unique  position  .of  being  the  only  man 
ever  elected  Mayor  of  Lynn  who  declined  the 
office.  This  happened  in  1854.  He  was  then  in 
the  office  of  Judge  of  the  Police  Court,  and  rightly 
conceiving  the  two  positions  to  be  incompatible  he 
declined  the  political  office. 

Almost  the  last  appearance  in  public  of  James 
R.  Newhall,  certainly  the  last  when  the  members 
of  the  bar  were  with  him,  was  at  the  funeral  of  his 
predecessor  as  Judge  —  the  Hon.  Thomas  B.  New- 
hall  —  a  few  weeks  before  his  own  death. 

Mr.  Stickney  was,  however,  Mr.  Newhall's  par- 
ticular friend.  In  his  office  he  entered  upon  the 
study  of  law  in  1844.  For  him  he  had  a  strong 
admiration  which  almost  had  the  character  of  the 
awe  with  which  Mr.  Stickney  impressed  younger 
people  and  indeed  most  people  with  whom  he  came 
in  contact. 

Mr.  Stickney  was  a  graduate  of  Harvard.  He 
spent  forty  years  in  Lynn  in  active  and  successful 
practice  of  law.  He  was  devoted  to  his  profession. 
He  might  have  been  a  Judge  ;  he  declined  to  accept 
the  office  of  U.S.  District  Attorney  for  Massachu- 
setts tendered  him  by  President  Jackson.  He  only 
accepted  such  positions  as  would  not  interfere  with 
his  home  work.  He  served  in  the  General  Court 
—  that  excellent  training  school  for  lawyers  —  two 


414  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

terms.  He  was  our  postmaster  for  fifteen  years, 
then  a  position  which  added  to  the  income  without 
filching  much  time  from  business.  He  was  the  ad- 
viser of  Mayor  Hood  and  the  authorities  when  we 
took  on  the  forms  of  city  government ;  and,  when 
the  office  was  created  in  1853,  he  was  chosen  as 
City  Solicitor. 

The  lives  of  Mr.  Nevvhall  and  Mr.  Stickney 
afford  a  striking  example  of  the  utter  transitoriness 
of  the  lawyer's  fame.  Men,  even  now  scarcely 
past  middle  life,  can  recall  the  adroit,  persuasive, 
thoroughly  equipped,  eminently  courteous  and 
courtly  Stickney.  It  is  far  within  the  line  of  truth 
to  say  that  he  was  as  able  an  all-round  lawyer  as 
ever  practised  in  Lynn. 

Mr.  Newhall,  himself,  would  unquestionably 
have  placed  Mr.  Stickney  as  the  brightest  legal 
luminary  of  Lynn,  and  have  put  a  very  depreca- 
tory estimate  upon  his  own  rank.  Yet  such  is  the 
irony  of  fate  that  the  student,  who  evolved  quaint 
stories  of  the  early  days  from  his  brain  and  put  them 
into  type,  will,  by  virtue  of  such  writing,  ever  be 
known  as  a  lawyer,  while  the  man  who  led  the  bar 
will  not  leave  even  a  tradition  after  another  genera- 
tion has  passed  away. 

Law  was  not  Mr.  Newhall's  first  love  nor  his  last. 
Several  reasons  induced  him  to  essay  the  profession. 
He  was  a  first-class  printer;  he  was  a  trained  edito- 
rial writer ;  he  was  desirous  of  writing  the  annals 
of  Lynn ;  he  had  a  mission  to  preserve  the  tradi- 
tions of  his  native  town  ;  there  was  no  money  in 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES.  415 

journalism  in  the  Lynn  of  his  day  and  capital  was 
lacking  to  accomplish  his  projected  work.  Law, 
at  least  in  those  days,  was  an  eminently  respectable 
calling,  an  occupation  for  gentlemen,  and  the  suc- 
cessful career  of  his  friend  Stickney  was  an  incen- 
tive for  him  to  try  it.  He  established  a  good  prac- 
tice and  was  enabled  to  publish  "  Lin  or  Jewels  of 
the  Third  Plantation  "  in  1862,  and  the  "  History 
of  Lynn,  "  embodying  and  continuing  the  work  of 
Alonzo  Lewis,  in  1865. 

In  1866,  Thomas  B.  Newhall  resigned  his  com- 
mission as  Justice  of  the  Lynn  Police  Court,  and 
Governor  Bullock  appointed  James  R.  Newhall  to 
the  position. 

The  bar  of  Lynn,  when  Mr.  Newhall  became 
Justice  of  the  Police  Court,  was  represented  by  the 
witty  but  erratic  Isaac  Brown,  who  had  an  office  on 
Chestnut  street ;  William  Howland,  the  careful 
conveyancer,  at  the  corner  of  Munroe  and  Market 
streets ;  Judge  Thomas  B.  Newhall,  who,  upon  re- 
signing the  judgeship,  established  an  office  in  the 
Ashcroft  building  at  the  corner  of  Market  and 
Tremont  streets  ;  Dean  Peabody,  now  Clerk  of  the 
Courts,  located  in  Frazier's  building,  corner  of 
Market  and  Summer  streets  ;  Jeremiah  C.  Stickney 
and  Minot  Tirrell,  Jr.,  in  Central  square;  Eben 
Parsons,  returned  from  meritorious  service  in  the 
army,  also  located  about  that  time  on  Union  street ; 
as  well  as  your  humble  servant  in  Hill's  building. 

What  proportion  of  influence  in  attaining  this 
position  was  derived  from  his  gentle  and  eminently 


416  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

respectable  life,  his  attainments  as  a  lawyer,  or  the 
reputation  acquired  from  his  books,  it  is  useless  to 
speculate.  The  office,  which  was  for  life  unless 
sooner  resigned,  gave  to  him,  freed  from  the  un- 
certainties of  the  practice  of  the  law,  a  respectable 
income,  and  allowed  sufficient  leisure  to  prosecute 
and  accomplish  his  literary  work. 

In  1879,  ne  was  seventy  years  old  and  resigned 
his  commission.  Quiet,  sedate  old  Lynn  had  van- 
ished. A  modern  hustling  city  with  its  ruder  man- 
ners and  babel  of  tongues  had  taken  its  place.  The 
mild,  scholarly,  white-haired  Judge  found  the  at- 
mosphere and  concomitants  of  the  new-style  police 
court  to  be  distasteful  and  discordant  to  a  man  of 
refined  tastes  and  gentle  ways. 

He  retired  with  the  respect  of  all  the  good  peo- 
ple of  Lynn.  Thence  on,  for  thirteen  years,  he 
lived,  till  the  great  change  came,  a  serene  yet  busy 
life.  His  working  hours  were  devoted  to  fresh 
literary  composition  and  to  bringing  out  new  edi- 
tions of  his  "  History  "  and  ««  Lin." 

In  1883,  being  then  seventy-three  years  old,  he 
made  the  grand  tour  abroad,  visiting  the  famous 
cities  and  renowned  places  in  Europe,  and  extend- 
ing his  trip  to  interesting  levantine  points  ;  to  Algiers 
and  Malta  on  the  Mediterranean ;  and  to  Alexan- 
dria, Cairo  and  the  Pyramids  in  Egypt. 

It  was  an  eminently  satisfactory  episode  in  his 
life.  Concerning  it  he  wrote,  "Though  the  tour 
was  undertaken  alone  —  for  if  alone  one  can,  with- 
out let  or  hinderance,  go  how,  when  and  where  he 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES.  417 

pleases  —  he  everywhere  received  such  gratifying 
civilities  as  could  only  lead  to  regrets  that  he  had 
not  earlier  in  life  thus  experimentally  learned  that, 
after  all,  men  everywhere  will,  on  the  whole,  rather 
contribute  to  make  others  happy  than  miserable. 
Such  experience  increases  faith  in  human  nature, 
and  ought  to  diminish  self-conceit." 

Fittingly,  many  years  ago  (1854),  the  Judge  se- 
lected an  historic  spot  for  his  home.  Sadler's  Rock 
perpetuates  the  name  of  the  first  settler  in  the  local- 
ity, and  of  Lynn's  first  Clerk  of  the  Writs.  Upon 
the  south-western  slope  of  this  spur  of  porphyry, 
out  of  the  adamantine  material  of  the  hill  itself, 
Mr.  Newhall  erected  the  conspicuous  mansion  which 
overhangs  the  old  town,  as  picturesque  as  a  Norman 
keep  of  feudal  England. 

Environment  counts  for  something.  Mr.  Newhall 
was  not  exempt  from  the  rule  that  they  who  love 
most  suffer  most.  He  lost,  by  early  death,  a  prom- 
ising boy,  his  only  child.  Thence  on,  his  ambition 
was  to  leave  to  posterity  a  worthy  portrayal  of  the 
ancient  town. 

Fortunately  for  us,  he  did  not  have  to  hurry  his 
work.  Years  of  peace  and  comfort  were  granted 
him  to  dwell  in  that  lofty  aerie  —  to  watch  the  sun 
rise  over  old  High  Rock  and  set  beyond  Saugus  hills, 
and  observe  the  growth  of  Lynn,  while  he  stood  at 
the  case  in  his  cosy  work-room  and  set  his  own  type, 
from  which  more  than  two  thousand  stereotyped 
pages  remain  to- attest  the  character  of  the  recrea- 
tions of  his  leisure  hours. 


418  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

How  much  of  our  civic  life  one  long  life  covers  ! 
Lynn  is  one  of  the  oldest  of  the  Bay  towns,  yet  this 
life  shows  how  much  of  our  growth  has  been  in  the 
present  century.  We  have  shown  our  friend  to 
have  been  the  co-worker  and  associate  with  the 
first  lawyer  who  put  out  his  shingle  here  and  with 
the  first  printer  who  set  up  his  venerable  Ramage 
press,  which,  the  Judge  said,  looked  as  if  Franklin 
might  have  worked  at  it. 

The  book  which  has  inseparably  linked  together 
the  names  of  Alonzo  Lewis  and  James  R.  Newhall, 
and  has  become  a  standard  household  necessity  with 
our  people,  is  called  the  "  History  of  Lynn."  It  is 
a  work  that  bears  testimony  to  laborious  research 
on  the  part  of  its  compilers,  especially  of  Mr. 
Lewis,  who,  in  addition  to  antiquarian  tastes,  had 
a  quality  which  is  not  usually  allied  with  delving 
into  the  past.  Mr.  Lewis  had  the  imaginative  or- 
gan largely  developed,  as  the  phrenologist  would 
say.  If  he  had  written  much  history  he  might  have 
indulged  in  what  is  called  in  rhyme  poetic  license, 
and  is  there  allowable,  but  which  in  prose,  and  par- 
ticularly in  historic  composition,  is  not  permitted. 

Except  the  introductory  descriptive  chapters,  this 
work  is  not  history  in  its  broad  sense,  that  is,  a 
statement  of  the  birth,  growth  and  progress  of  the 
place,  with  philosophical  inquiries  respecting  causes 
and  effects,  but  just  what  it  claims  to  be,  the  annals, 
which  are  simply  the  facts  and  events  of  each  year, 
in  strict  chronological  order,  without  observations 
by  the  annalist. 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES.  419 

The  historic  part  of  this  work,  whatever  its  value, 
is  to  be  credited  to  Mr.  Lewis.  Mr.  Newhall  took 
the  "Annals"  up  where  Mr.  Lewis  left  them,  that 
is,  at  the  close  of  1843.  Thence  on,  the  work  is 
wholly  by  Mr.  Newhall. 

Critics  may  say  that  the  "  Annals"  do  not  give 
a  true  perspective  of  historic  events,  or  that  things 
trivial  occupy  as  much  space  as  happenings  that 
tend  to  color  and  affect  the  future.  But  that  is  not 
the  fault  of  our  annalist  or  any  annalist ;  it  is  in- 
herent in  this  style  of  writing.  The  little  events 
occur  as  well  as  the  great  acts,  and  it  is  the  province 
of  the  annalist  to  be  the  recorder  rather  than  the 
interpreter  or  the  prophet. 

For  this  kind  of  composition,  Mr.  Newhall  was 
peculiarly  well  adapted.  Always  a  lover  of  the 
lore  of  the  ancient  town,  his  training  had  made 
him  a  swift  type-setter,  an  accurate  proof-reader, 
and  a  discriminating  editor.  These  were  the  very 
acquirements  that  are  essential  to  him  who  would 
patiently,  from  day  to  day,  and  from  year  to  year, 
select  and  jot  down  the  occurrences  of  the  locality, 
and  sift  and  cull  those  things  which  somebody,  by 
and  by,  may  want  to  know  about.  Steady  as  a 
clock  from  his  very  youth,  methodical  and  pains- 
taking even  in  the  smallest  details,  he  not  only 
scissored  and  scrap-booked  everything  which  his 
sharp  eyes  saw,  but  he  made  an  exhaustive  index  with- 
out which  such  a  book,  however  well  written,  is  almost 
wholly  valueless  ;  but  with  which  even  the  dullest 
narration  of  town  life  becomes  of  value  to  the  student. 


420  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

In  addition  to  the  "Annals, "in  the  1865  edition,  and 
more  extensively  in  the  1883  and  1890  volumes,  he 
gave  many  slight  biographical  sketches.  The  habits 
and  ways  of  those  who  walked  the  boards  of  the 
stage  before  we  came  upon  the  scenes  have  a  pecu- 
liar fascination  for  us.  What  he  has  done  in  this 
line  has  been  well  done  and  much  that  he  has  re- 
corded in  this  vein  would  have  been  lost  if  it  had 
not  been  for  his  pen  ;  that  is,  the  personal  incidents 
concerning  many  old  worthies  could  not  now  be 
gathered  by  any  living  person.  His  own  life 
covered  a  large  part  of  this  century  and  his  reten- 
tive memory  seized  upon  all  that  men,  old  when  the 
century  began,  had  to  relate. 

In  the  History  there  are  few  sins  of  commission. 
Of  course  there  are  some  sins  of  omission ;  for 
instance,  one  which  was  called  to  my  attention  by 
the  librarian  of  our  public  library,  who  had  occasion 
to  look  for  something  relating  to  one  of  the  fore- 
most men  of  Lynn  of  his  time,  one  whom  people 
not  yet  old  can  remember,  a  man  who  held  for 
twenty  odd  years  what  was  then  the  most  conspicu- 
ous public  office  —  that  of  postmaster.  Of  Deacon 
Jonathan  Bacheller  not  a  word  appears,  save  as  one 
in  the  list  of  officers,  in  either  edition. 

Exceptions,  however,  only  prove  the  rule.  Mr. 
Newhall's  execution  of  his  task  is  a  creditable  per- 
formance, but  it  is  not  a  remarkable  one.  Some- 
body else  might  have  had  the  plodding  industry  and 
literary  taste  and  have  done  as  well. 

Upon    the  writing    of   that   book,  Mr.  Newhall 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES.  421 

could  not  have  obtained  the  pedestal  which  he  will 
in  future  occupy  with  students  and  scholars.  Mr. 
NewhalPs  literary  fame  will  be  always  secure.  He 
wrote  one  book  which  will  forever  be  a  classic  in 
New  England  bibliography. 

"Lin;  or,  Jewels  of  the  Third  Plantation,"  by 
Obadiah  Oldpath,  is  a  book,  which,  as  we  getaway 
from  the  ways,  habits  and  speech  of  the  period 
which  it  depicts,  will  steadily  gain  in  value. 

In  the  second  edition,  the  author  acknowledges 
his  appreciation  of  the  manner  in  which  the  first 
was  received,  and  states  that  one  of  the  most  flat- 
tering expressions  concerning  it  came  from  the  lips 
of  an  aged  Quaker  preacher,  who,  taking  him  by 
the  hand,  exclaimed,  "I  must  tell  thee  that  I've 
both  laughed  and  cried  over  thy  book."  And  then 
he  naively  adds  that  he  was,  nevertheless,  led  to 
fear  that  the  scope  and  purpose  were  not  in  all 
cases  fully  understood. 

That  scope  and  purpose  he  throws  light  upon  in 
these  words  :  "  By  a  strict  adherence  to  barren  facts 
in  the  history  of  a  people,  much  of  the  true  spirit 
may  remain  undeveloped.  Traditions  and  inferen- 
tial elucidations  often  form  a  most  valuable  backing 
for  the  mirror  that  is  to  reflect  a  given  period  ;  and 
those  may  not  find  place  in  a  stately  history.  While 
it  is  not  claimed  that  direct  authority  can  be  referred 
to  for  every  statement  it  is  confidently  claimed  that 
the  whole  is  as  truly  illustrative  of  the  people  and 
their  doings  in  those  good  old  times,  of  their  walks 
and  their  ways,  as  if  every  page  were  disfigured 


422  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

by  reference  to  authorities.  And  by  the  same  token, 
while  the  scenes  are  laid  in  a  somewhat  circum- 
scribed vicinage,  though  one  of  the  most  picturesque 
and  diversified  in  all  New  England,  it  is  yet  true 
that  most  extensive  fields  of  historic  interest  are 
held  in  survey." 

As  to  the  contemporary  standing  of  this  book,  I 
desire  to  call  a  witness,  first  qualifying  him  as  an 
expert:  Name,  William  Whiting ;  A.B.,  Harvard, 
1833  ;  admitted  to  the  Bar  of  Massachusetts  and 
of  U.S.  Courts,  1838  ;  Presidential  Elector,  1868  ; 
LL.D.,  1872  ;  Representative  of  3d  Mass.  District 
in  43d  Congress  ;  Honorary  Member  of  Historical 
Societies  of  New  York,  Pennsylvania,  Florida  and 
Wisconsin ;  Corresponding  Member  of  the  Phila- 
delphia Numismatic  and  Antiquarian  Society,  etc.  ; 
President  of  the  New  England  Historic-Genealogi- 
cal Society ;  Solicitor  of  the  War  Department  at 
Washington,  during  the  War  of  the  Rebellion,  and 
author  of  an  important  work  called  "The  War 
Powers  of  the  President." 

Mr.  Whiting  was  a  lineal  descendant  of  Samuel 
Whiting,  the  first  minister  of  Lynn.  As  a  labor 
of  love  he  wrote  and  printed,  not  published,  an 
elaborate  and  exhaustive  "  Memoir  of  Rev.  Samuel 
Whiting,  D.D.,  and  of  his  wife,  Elizabeth  St.  John, 
with  references  to  some  of  their  English  ancestors 
and  American  descendants." 

Mr.  Whiting  fortified  his  statements,  like  careful 
historians  and  pleaders,  by  numerous  citations  from 
competent  authorities,  such  as  the  Massachusetts 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES.  423 

Records,  the  Histories  of  Hutchinson,  Minot,  Ban- 
croft, Drake,  Thompson,  Palfrey,  Barry  and  Hub- 
bard,  Lewis's  Lynn,  Winthrop's  Journal,  Edward 
Johnson's  Wonder  Working  Providence,  Savage's 
Genealogical  Dictionary,  De  Tocqueville's  Democ- 
racy in  America,  Cotton  Mather's  Magnalia,  Up- 
ham's  Witchcraft  and  all  the  standard  writers  upon 
New  England  life  ;  but  his  favorite  and  most  quoted 
illustrations  are  from  the  "Journal  of  Obadiah 
Turner." 

This  famous  Journal  is  a  part  of  the  contents  of 
"  Lin."  It  is  such  a  vivid  picture,  so  mirror-like 
in  its  representation  of  'early  colonial  life,  so  true 
in  its  terse,  idiomatic,  provincial  English  that  it  is 
no  wonder  that  it  impressed  the  profound  lawyer 
and  historic-genealogical  scholar  with  its  power  and 
reliability. 

Mr.  Whiting  also  gives  entries  from  the  Journal 
of  Thomas  Newhall.  This  Journal,  like  the  other, 
singularly  realistic  and  fascinating  to  students  of 
the  olden  days,  is  a  part  of  "  Lin."  Mr.  Whiting 
quotes  entire  several  pages  from  what  he  truly 
styles  "  the  invaluable  Journal  "  of  Mr.  Turner,  his 
ancestor's  parishioner. 

Mr.  Whiting  is  not  the  only  witness  who  has  un- 
consciously testified  to  the  exquisite  literary  art,  this 
perfect  reproduction  of  the  thought  of  the  old  plant- 
ers. Many  learned  men  have  asked  where  Mr. 
Newhall  found  these  yellow,  time-stained  life  stories 
of  the  olden  time. 

In  the  England  of  George  the  Third,  there  lived 


424  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

a  boy  named  Thomas  Chatterton,  who  devoted  all 
his  time  to  acquiring  a  knowledge  of  English  an- 
tiquities and  obsolete  language.  He  produced  some 
wonderful  fabrications  which  purported  to  be  tran- 
scripts of  ancient  manuscripts,  written  by  Thomas 
Rowley,  a  priest  of  the  fifteenth  century.  The 
Rowleian  poetry  of  this  prodigy  of  letters  deceived 
men  of  literary  pretentions,  such  as  the  virtuoso, 
Horace  Walpole.  Like  Chatterton,  Mr.  Newhall 
made  a  fac-simile  reproduction  of  an  earlier  day 
and  the  learned  were  in  each  case  deceived  as  to 
the  origin.  There  the  resemblance  ceases,  for 
Chatterton  studied  to  deceive,  while  Mr.  Newhall 
simply  desired  a  medium  through  which  to  repre- 
sent the  age  which  he  essayed  to  reproduce. 

It  is  said  that  some  men  only  become  eloquent 
when  the  pen  comes  in  contact  with  the  white  paper. 
Of  Mr.  Newhall,  we  should  say,  that  his  genius 
found  fullest  play  when  he  stood  stick  in  hand  be- 
fore his  case  and,  to  the  music  of  the  clicking  types, 
without  the  intervention  of  pen  or  paper,  composed, 
in  a  double  sense ;  that  is,  a  large  portion  of  his 
work  was  never  written,  but  was  transferred  from 
his  brain  through  his  nervous  fingers  and  the  type 
to  the  printer's  form. 

Thus,  it  happened  that  these  famous  journals 
never  existed  on  mouldy  paper,  nor  even  on  the 
paper  of  his  time,  but  were  simply  figments  of  his 
intellect.  The  alleged  journals  were  only  the  key 
with  which  he  introduced  his  readers  to  the  society 
of  the  elders.  The  journals,  bright  and  captivating 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES.  425 

as  they  are,  form  but  a  part  of  this  work,  which 
appears  to  me  to  stand  the  best  chance  of  any  liter- 
ary production  of  Lynn  authors  to  endure  the  test 
of  time. 

The  sketches,  besides  their  pithy  style,  have  a 
quaint  flavor  of  the  soil.  The  route  of  Hector  Mc- 
Intyre  in  his  battle  with  the  phoca  was  not  better 
depicted  by  the  Wizard  of  the  North  than  the  in- 
glorious discomfiture  of  Parson  Shepard's  eeling 
expedition  on  the  Saugus  River. 

The  Judge  was  an  Episcopalian,  but  he  has  other- 
wise spoken  fair  words  of  our  Puritan  divines,  so  we 
pardon  him  for  inserting  the  incident  that  insinuates 
that  our  fighting  parson  was  only  human  after  all. 

"And  the  Dame  will  likewise  make  ready  for 
us  a  bite  of  something  whereby  to  stay  our  stomachs. 
And  if  you  have  a  mind,  Samuel,  you  may  bring 
along  your  little  red  keg,  for  mine  hath  sacrament 
wine  in  it,  and  I  will  put  a  little  something  in  ye 
same  to  warm  our  stomachs  withal.  For  it  is  best, 
Samuel,  sayd  he,  giving  his  eye  a  little  turn,  '  to 
go  prepared  to  meet  mishaps.'" 

The  veracious  chronicles  of  "  the  late  Diedrich 
Knickerbocker"  have  charmed  generations  of  read- 
ers, but  as  life-like  as  his  Dutch  farmers  or  as  gro- 
tesque as  his  Connecticut  pedagogue,  Ichabod  Crane, 
are  Obadiah  Oldpath's  scenes  of  the  scalping  of 
Mr.  Laighton  in  Lynn  Woods  or  the  wonderful 
cure  of  Aaron  Rhodes  by  the  mysterious  explosion 
of  Dr.  Tyndale's  cue. 

There  is  a  vein,  too,  of  pathos  in  the  touching 


426  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

story  of  Verna  Humphrey  that  is  none  the  less  pure 
because  it  lacks  the  weirdness  of  Hawthorne's  Hes- 
ter Prynne,  to  which  it  is  a  kindred  spirit  from  shade- 
land. 

In  claiming  for  this  work  the  prospect  of  a  longer 
hold  upon  the  memory  of  men  than  any  other,  I 
do  not  forget  that  Lynn  never  had  a  paucity  of 
writers.  Of  the  men  who  have  passed  on  within 
our  own  time,  we  recall  the  Whig  pen  and  the 
graceful  verse  of  Josiah  F.  Kimball ;  the  trenchant 
force  of  the  scholarly  Lewis  Josselyn  ;  the  caustic 
and  diversified  manner  of  the  late  Cyrus  M.  Tracy. 
Nor  do  I  forget  one  yet  living,  though  not  now  with 
us,  that  ready  writer  who  was  ever  a  leader  in  Lynn's 
progress  —  Peter  L.  Cox  —  and  many  others  whom 
I  may  not  name. 

These  men,  however,  wrote  for  bread  and  butter — 
their  themes  were  of  to-day.  Their  work  was  bright 
and  readable  when  published,  but  the  most  spark- 
ling leading  editorials  find  the  common  fate  of  news- 
paper work  —  the  cold  tomb  of  the  public  library. 

The  author  of  "  Lin"  wrote  at  his  leisure  in  the 
seclusion  of  his  closet  from  the  past,  over  the  pres- 
ent, for  the  future. 

To  have  held  honorable  positions  with  credit  to 
the  people  and  to  himself  in  his  native  town  is  much, 
but  to  have  written  books  that  will  entertain  and  in- 
struct our  children's  children  will  give  him  more 
enduring  fame  than  the  loudest  plaudits  that  con- 
temporaries could  shower  upon  him,  or  any  man, 
for  any  achievements  that  are  of  to-day  only. 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES.  427 

He  wrought  well  what  he  undertook.  To  him 
we  may  well  apply  Lowell's  lines  of  the  poise  of 
the  modest  man : 

"  Ah  !  men  do  not  know  how  much  strength  is  in  poise, 
That  he  goes  the  farthest  who  goes  far  enough, 
And  that  all  beyond  that  is  just  bother  and  stuff, 
No  vain  man  matures,  he  makes  too  much  new  wood ; 
His  blooms  are  too  thick  for  the  fruit  to  be  good; 
'T  is  the  modest  man  ripens,  't  is  he  that  achieves, 
Just  what's  needed  of  sunshine  and  shade  he  receives; 
Grapes,  to  mellow,  require  the  cool  dark  of  their  leaves." 


(From  the  Memoirs  of  Deceased   Members  of  the  New-England  Historic 

Genealogical  Society,  at  the  Annual  Meeting,  i  January,  i8qt>. 

By  the  REV.  E.  H.  BYINGTON,  D.D.) 


JAMES  ROBINSON  NEWHALL,  of  Lynn,  a  resident 
member  of  this  Society,  elected  January  3,  1883, 
was  born  in  Lynn,  December  25,  1809,  and  died 
in  Lynn,  October  24,  1893. 

He  was  a  descendant  of  Thomas  Newhall,  who 
came  from  England  in  1630,  and  settled  in  Lynn  a 
year  or  two  after  the  town  was  begun.  His  second 
son,  Thomas,  born  in  1631,  was  the  first  white  child 
born  in  Lynn,  and  was  baptized  by  Mr.  Bachiler, 
the  first  minister  of  Lynn,  the  first  Sunday  after 
his  arrival,  June  8,  1632.  He  was  a  man  of  in- 
tegrity, a  farmer,  whose  name  appears  frequently 
in  the  early  records  of  the  town.  His  third  son, 
Joseph,  was  born  September  22,  1658.  He  is  said 


428  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

to  have  perished  in  a  great  snow-storm.  His  seventh 
son,  Benjamin,  was  born  April  5,  1698.  He  had 
fourteen  children.  His  second  son,  James,  born 
July  n,  1731,  was  a  magistrate,  and  was  known 
as  "  'Squire  Jim."  He  was  the  father  of  Benjamin, 
born  January  19,  1774,  wno  was  the  father  of  Judge 
Newhall,  the  historian  of  Lynn,  of  whom  we  are 
writing.  The  family  of  Newhall  is  very  numerous 
in  Lynn.  At  one  period  there  were  eight  men 
there  who  bore  the  name  of  James  Newhall,  not 
one  of  whom  had  a  middle  name.  They  were 
distinguished  as  'Squire  Jim,  Phthisicy  Jim,  Silver 
Jim,  Bully  Jim,  Increase  Jim,  Presidentjim,  Nathan's 
Jim,  and  Doctor  Jim. 

Judge  Newhall  was  a  self-made  man.  His  father 
had  a  large  family  to  provide  for,  and  his  mother 
died  when  he  was  a  child.  He  left  home,  to  make 
his  way  in  the  world,  at  the  age  of  eleven.  He 
attended  the  public  schools  as  much  as  he  was  able  ; 
but,  in  his  fifteenth  year,  he  entered  the  office  of 
the  Salem  Gazette,  to  learn  printing.  Before  he 
was  twenty-one  he  was  employed  as  foreman  in  one 
of  the  principal  book  offices  in  Boston.  In  1829 
he  was  employed  in  the  Conference  office  in  New 
York.  At  the  age  of  twenty-two  he  returned  to 
Lynn,  and  was  employed  in  the  office  of  the  Mirror. 
He  afterward  purchased  the  office  and  was  for  some 
years  engaged  in  the  printing  and  newspaper  busi- 
ness. In  1844  he  began  the  study  of  the  law,  and 
was  admitted  to  the  bar  in  1847.  He  opened  an 
office  in  Lynn,  and  secured  a  good  business  as  a 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES.  429 

lawyer.  In  1869  he  was  commissioned  as  Judge 
of  the  Lynn  Police  Court,  an  office  which  he  held 
for  ten  years.  In  1882  he  took  an  extended  tour 
abroad,  visiting  the  most  important  cities  in  Europe. 

Mr.  Newhall  was  not  much  in  public  life  except- 
ing as  Judge  of  the  Police  Court.  He  was,  how- 
ever, at  one  time  Chairman  of  the  School  Board, 
and  President  of  the  Common  Council.  He  devoted 
a  large  part  of  his  time,  in  his  late  years,  to  histori- 
cal studies.  He  published  "Lin;  or,  Jewels  of 
the  Third  Plantation,"  a  book  which  George  W. 
Curtis  compared  to  the  Sketch  Book  by  Washing- 
ton Irving.  The  "  History  of  Lynn,"  published  in 
1865,  bears  on  its  title-page  the  names  of  Alonzo 
Lewis  and  James  R.  Newhall.  A  large  part  of 
this  work  is  from  the  pen  of  Judge  Newhall.  He 
also  published  "Centennial  Addresses"  in  1876, 
and  "Lynn  —  Her  First  Two  Hundred  and  Fifty 
Years,"  by  invitation  of  the  city  authorities,  at  the 
anniversary  in  1879.  He  contributed  to  the  History 
of  Essex  County  and  to  that  of  Worcester  County. 
His  "Annals  of  Lynn,"  published  in  1883,  brought 
the  history  of  the  city  to  that  date.  He  was  for 
several  years  president  of  the  Lynn  Press  Associa- 
tion. 

He  was  twice  married.  In  October,  1837,  ne 
married  Dorcas  B.  Brown,  of  Salem.  His  second 
wife  was  Elizabeth  Campbell,  daughter  of  the  late 
Josiah  Newhall,  who  survives  him. 


430 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 


{Daily  Evening  Item,  May  29,  i8qb.) 

THE  NEWHALL  FAMILY. 


Genealogy  inscribed  on   a  marble  block   in 
Pine  Grove  Cemetery. 

OCCUPYING  a  prominent  place  in  Pine  Grove 
Cemetery  is  a  large  plain  block  of  pure  white  Rut- 
land marble,  which  cannot  fail  to  attract  the  notice 
of  the  many  visitors  to  that  spot  on  Memorial  Day. 
Located  on  Locust  avenue,  on  the  lot  of  Harrison 
Newhall,  it  rises  above  its  surroundings  in  impos- 
ing grandeur  and  was  erected  to  be  a  landmark 
and  a  reference  of  the  genealogical  lines  of  the 
Newhall  family. 

One  side  bears  the  lines  of  descent  of  James 
R.  Newhall,  Lynn's  historian,  and  the  other  the 
lines  of  Harrison  Newhall's  descent,  the  inscrip- 
tions being  as  follows  :  — 


Thomas  Newhall 

1674 

Thomas  Newhall 

1674 

1630         Thomas  Newhall 

1687 

1630 

Thomas  Newhall 

1687 

First  white  child  born  in  Lyn 

n 

1658 

Joseph  Newhall 

1706 

1658         Joseph  Newhall 

1706 

1691 

Daniel  Newhall 

1752 

1698         Benjamin  Newhall 

1763 

1717 

Josiah  Newhall 

1789 

1731         James  Newhall 

1801 

1751 

William  Newhall 

1805 

1774         Benjamin  Newhall 

1857 

1790 

Josiah  Newhall 

1842. 

1809         James  R.  Newhall 

1893 

1819 

Harrison  Newhall 

James  Robinson  Newhall 

Lynn  Historian 

Son  of  Benjamin  and 

Sarah  Hart  Newhall 

Born  December  25,  1809, 

Died  October  24,  1893. 

Martha  Mudge  Perkins 

wife  of 

Harrison  Newhall 

and  daughter  of 

Israel  and  Hannah  Perkins 

Born  October  3,  1818, 
Died  September  19,  1889. 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES.  431 

The  block,  as  has  been  stated,  is  perfectly  plain 
and  weighs  over  two  tons.  It  rests  on  two  bases 
and  stands  about  seven  feet  in  height.  It  is  a  very 
solid  structure,  built  to  withstand  the  ravages  of 
time.  It  was  erected  last  fall  by  the  estate  of  James 
R.  Newhall  and  Harrison  Newhall  on  the  latter's 
lot  with  the  idea  of  perpetuating  the  Newhall 
genealogy  and  in  commemoration  of  the  first  white 
child  born  in  the  city. 


(Daily  Evening  Item,  May  27,  j8g6.) 

ELIZABETH  CAMPBELL  NEWHALL. 


ELIZABETH  CAMPBELL  NEWHALL,  widow  of 
Judge  JAMES  R.  NEWHALL,  Lynn's  historian,  died 
at  her  home,  169  Walnut  street,  Tuesday,  after  an 
illness  of  but  a  few  weeks.  She  had  been  very 
active  up  to  within  a  short  time,  when  she  began  to 
fail.  Pneumonia  suddenly  set  in  and  she  was 
unable  to  rally  from  it,  and  died  as  above  stated. 

Mrs.  Newhall  was  the  second  child  of  Josiah 
Newhall  and  Lydia  Johnson  and  was  a  direct  de- 
scendant of  Thomas  Newhall,  the  first  person  of 
European  parentage  born  in  Lynn.  She  was  born 
April  7,  1814,  and  was  82  years,  I  month  and 
19  days  old. 

She  had  been  twice  married,  her  first  husband 
being  Rev.  William  Campbell,  a  Methodist  minister, 


432  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

with  whom  a  portion  of  her  life  was  spent  at  Mobile, 
Alabama.  Her  second  husband  was  Judge  James 
R.  Newhall,  who  died  in  October,  1893. 

She  was  a  woman  who  always  took  a  lively  in- 
terest in  public  and  benevolent  enterprises,  and  was 
one  of  the  ladies  interested  in  the  fair  at  Exchange 
Hall,  years  ago,  by  which  the  money  was  secured 
for  the  erection  of  the  old  fence  around  the  Com- 
mon and  Park. 

She  was  Secretary  of  the  Lynn  Female  Benevo- 
lent Society,  one  of  the  oldest  societies  for  charita- 
ble work  in  existence  in  the  city.  Over  40  years 
ago  she  was  a  school  teacher  in  Wards  3  and  5 
and  many  of  the  middle-aged  people  of  the  city 
were  her  pupils.  She  has  been  a  constant  attendant 
at  and  communicant  of  St.  Stephen's  Episcopal 
Church,  up  to  within  a  short  time. 


(Daily  Evening  Item,  May  29,  r8gt>.) 

LAST  RITES.  —  ELIZABETH  C.  NEWHALL. 


THE  last  sad  rites  were  performed  over  the  re- 
mains of  Mrs.  ELIZABETH  C.,  widow  of  JAMES  R. 
NEWHALL,  this  afternoon,  at  1.30,  services  being 
held  at  the  house,  19  City  Hall  Square,  and  after- 
wards at  St.  Stephen's  Church.  Many  old  and 
substantial  friends  were  present  and  paid  a  worthy 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES.  433 

tribute  to  her  who  in  life  was  everybody's  friend. 
The  services  at  the  house  were  conducted  by  Rev. 
C.  E.  Davis,  pastor  of  the  First  M.E.  Church. 
The  body  was  then  conveyed  to  St.  Stephen's 
Church,  where  Rev.  James  H.  Van  Buren,  pastor 
of  the  church,  conducted  services  according  to  the 
ritual  of  the  Episcopal  church.  Mrs.  S.  Louise 
Bruce-Brooks  sang  "Asleep  in  Jesus,"  "Abide 
with  Me,"  and  "  Rest  in  the  Lord."  The  floral 
designs  were  pretty  and  profuse.  The  interment 
took  place  in  Pine  Grove  Cemetery. 


(Sermon  by  REV.  JAMES  H.  VAN  BUREN,  at  St.  Stephen's  Episcopal  Church, 
May  39,  z8gb.) 

IN  MEMORIAM.  —  MRS.  JAMES  R.  NEWHALL. 


i  PETER  in  :  3,  4.  "  Whose  adorning,  let  it  be 
.  .  .  the  ornament  of  a  meek  and  quiet  spirit,  which 
is  in  the  sight  of  God  of  great  price." 

There  is  a  peculiar  tenderness  in  our  burial  ser- 
vice to-day.  The  orderly  and  beautiful  words  of 
that  service  which  we  use  for  old  and  young,  for 
rich  and  poor  alike,  always  seem  to  lend  themselves 
most  fittingly  to  the  occasion,  so  that  any  additional 
words  in  which  to  render  a  more  special  and  per- 
sonal tribute  would  seem  unnecessary. 

But  I  am  glad  of  the  permission  to  speak  to  you 
at  this  time  concerning  her  who  has  so  peacefully 

28 


434  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

gone  to  her  rest,  and  to  call  especial  attention  to 
the  tenderness  in  which  we  hold  her  remembrance, 
even  though  it  should  not  be  necessary  to  say  these 
things  which  are  so  well  known  to  all  of  you. 

First  of  all,  I  may  not  forget  to  remind  you  that 
much  of  her  religious  life  and  experience  was  as- 
sociated with  Christian  friends  and  brethren  of  dif- 
ferent thoughts  and  ways  from  our  own.  Among 
these  her  "meek  and  quiet  spirit"  retained  sweet 
and  lasting  friendships,  and  they  also  gladly  join 
with  us  to-day  in  paying  to  her  memory  the  tribute 
of  affection.  In  coming  into  full  relation  with  the 
ways  of  our  beloved  Church  very  late  in  life  she 
brought  no  unkind  thoughts  of  the  ways  she  had 
left  behind  ;  and  in  giving  her  to  us,  no  ungenerous 
thought,  so  far  as  I  know,  lingered  with  those  who 
had  known  and  loved  her  in  her  former  relations. 

She  came  to  this  parish  as  an  attendant  with  her 
husband  in  times  when  the  present  beautiful  sur- 
roundings were  unknown.  Side  by  side  with  her 
husband,  of  honored  and  blessed  memory,  in  the 
little  church  across  the  Common,  she  quietly  worked 
and  worshipped  with  this  parish  as  well  as  with  her 
own  former  connection.  It  is  her  relation  with  what 
our  parish  now  looks  back  upon  as  "the  day  of 
small  things,"  that  sounds  in  our  hearts  to-day  one 
of  the  first  notes  of  that  peculiar  tenderness  of 
which  we  are  conscious.  It  is  possible  to  make 
church  buildings  fine  without  making  the  people 
contented  or  Christlike.  But  the  ornament  of  a 
meek  and  quiet  spirit  makes  all  surroundings  gra- 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES.  435 

cious.  And  it  was  that  adorning,  after  all,  which 
the  people  and  attendants  of  the  old  church  brought 
to  the  new  one  which  made  the  new  building  truly 
the  house  of  God  and  the  gate  of  heaven,  bright 
with  the  presence  of  God. 

That  #11  this  was  true  of  her,  is  well  known  to 
you  who  have  known  her  best,  and  best  known  to 
those  who  have  known  her  longest.  You  saw,  in 
her  home  and  in  her  quiet  ways  there,  and  in  the 
peacefulness  of  that  dwelling  that  looked  out  over 
city  and  forest  to  the  sea,  the  influence  of  her  nature. 
You  saw  it  wherever  you  saw  her  in  social  relations, 
never  making  herself  conspicuous,  yet  always  the 
same  in  her  modest  and  womanly  presence. 

There  was,  as  though  it  had  been  the  fruit  and 
the  token  of  this  quality  in  her,  a  strong  and  faith- 
ful purpose  of  helpfulness.  She  showed  this  in 
many  ways,  and  especially  in  the  long  years  of  her 
connection  with  that  Benevolent  Society  whose  good 
works  were  a  source  to  her  of  so  much  quiet  satis- 
faction. In  making  her  their  secretary  for  so  many 
years,  the  Society  bore  continued  witness  to  her 
fidelity,  and  this  appreciation  of  her  and  of  her 
services  was  a  cause  of  happiness,  very  pleasant  to 
remember. 

In  the  twilight  of  one  of  our  springtime  days,  in 
a  home  that  was  filled  with  beautiful  memories,  she 
has  peacefully  fallen  asleep.  It  is  a  fitting  close 
to  such  a  gentle  life.  Our  thoughts  of  her  are  in 
keeping  with  the  gracious  quiet  and  restfulness  of 
the  twilight  hour.  With  trembling  voice,  but  with 


436  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

unfaltering  faith,  not  long  before  the  fall  of  even- 
tide, she  joined  in  the  words  of  that  prayer  which 
lifts  the  heart  to  thoughts  of  heaven,  "  Our  Father," 
and  the  next  day  at  about  the  same  hour,  she  was 
at  rest. 

We  shall  miss  her.  The  "  meek  and  quiet  spirit " 
that  was  so  constant,  while  health  and  strength  al- 
lowed, in  the  place  of  duty,  is  a  remembrance  that 
will  teach  us  many  a  lesson  of  patience  and  faith, 
of  meekness  and  charity,  as  the  days  go  by.  It  is 
a  beautiful  ordering  of  God  that  He  gives  so  much 
strength  to  souls  that  make  so  little  stir,  and  ask 
so  little  for  themselves.  It  is  a  heavenly  thought 
that  the  calm  twilight  of  life's  long  day  can  be  so 
like  the  eventide  that  is  filled  with  promise  of  the 
dawn.  It  is  easy,  in  the  tender  remembrances  we 
have  of  such  a  life  as  she  has  lived,  to  see  how  true 
are  the  beautiful  words  of  our  text :  "  the  ornament 
of  a  meek  and  quiet  spirit,  is  in  the  sight  of  God 
of  great  price." 


(Daily  Evening  Item,  June  i,  i8<)6.) 

ELIZABETH  C.  NEWHALL'S  WILL. 

Generous  public  bequests  to  Lynn  institutions  —  St.  Stephen's 
Church  and  relatives  remembered. 


THE  will  of  ELIZABETH  C.  NEWHALL,  filed  at 
the  Probate  Court,  at  Salem,  to-day,  contains  the 
following  bequests  of  public  interest :  — 


BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES.  437 

She  bequeaths  to  the  Lynn  Hospital  and  to  the 
Lynn  Home  for  Aged  Men  $1500  each,  in  remem- 
brance of  the  recognition  of  these  two  institutions  in 
the  will  of  her  late  husband,  Judge  James  R. 
Newhall. 

To  the  Lynn  Home  for  Aged  Women,  $500. 

To  the  Ladies'  Benevolent  Society,  $100. 

To  the  Rector,  Wardens,  Treasurer  and  Clerk 
of  St.  Stephen's  Episcopal  Parish,  Lynn,  and  their 
successors  in  office,  $800,  to  be  held  by  them  in 
trust,  the  principal  and  income  from  which  is  to  be 
applied  toward  the  erection  of  a  Guild  Hall,  or 
parish  building,  provided  some  one  room  in  the 
said  building  shall  be  named  in  memory  of  her  late 
husband,  James  Robinson  Newhall,  and  so  indicated 
in  the  room,  and  provided  also  that  the  said  build- 
ing shall  have  been  erected,  or  shall  be  in  process 
of  erection,  within  fifteen  years  after  her  decease. 
If  no  building  shall  be  erected  for  such  a  purpose 
within  fifteen  years,  the  trustees  named  are  to  allow 
the  principal  and  interest  to  accumulate  to  the 
amount  of  $2000,  which  amount  is  to  be  known  as 
the  "James  Robinson  Newhall  Fund,"  and  the  in- 
come to  be  used  for  such  purposes  in  connection 
with  the  work  of  St.  Stephen's  Parish  as  the  War- 
dens and  Vestry  shall  annually  decide.  If  a  build- 
ing should  ever  afterward  be  erected,  it  is  left  to 
the  discretion  of  the  Wardens  and  Vestry  to  devote 
the  whole  or  any  part  of  the  fund  to  the  building. 

She  makes  several  bequests  to  relatives  and  con- 


43  BIOGRAPHICAL    NOTICES. 

nections,  and  bequeaths  her  furniture  and  house- 
hold effects  to  the  wives  of  her  three  nephews. 

She  gives  the  use  of  the  residue  to  her  brother, 
Harrison  Newhall,  during  his  life,  and  afterward 
to  be  divided  one-third  each  to  her  three  nephews. 

In  the  settlement  of  the  estate  of  James  R.  New- 
hall  there  is  a  residuary  bequest  to  the  Lynn  Hospi- 
tal and  to  the  Lynn  Home  for  Aged  Men,  so  that 
in  settlement  of  the  two  estates  the  two  institutions 
will  receive  about  $2500  each. 


INDEX. 


Abernethy,  Doctor.    Anecdotes,  51. 
Adams,  John  Quincy,  32. 

Court  anecdotes.  161-170. 
Curtin,  Enoch,  112. 

Allen,  compositor,  80. 

Gushing,  Caleb,  42. 

Andre,  Major,  22. 
Andrews,  Ferdinand,  Salem.  27,28,37. 

Dabney,  Nathaniel,  Salem,  401. 

Anonymous  writing,  60. 
Attorney  General,  U.S.,  43. 

Daguerreotype  apparatus,  129. 
Damrell,  William  S.,  79. 

D'Arusmont,  M,  87. 

Bacheller.  Jonathan.  117. 
Badger's  Weekfy  Messenger,  127. 
Banquet.  Lynn  Bar,  171. 

Deacon  Giles'  Distillery,  28. 
Delaware  Bay,  105. 
Dexter,  Lord  Timothy,  67. 

Barnum,  P.  T  ,  139. 

Ditson,  Oliver,  58. 

Berry,  Hon.  John  W.,  180. 

Dolliver  Romance,  Hawthorne,  402. 

Beecher,  Dr.  Lyman,  85.  86. 

Berkeley,  Sir  William,  47. 
Berry,  Mr.,  57. 

Ellsler,  Fannie,  139. 
Examiner,  Christian,  48,54. 

BIOGRAPHICAL  NOTICES. 

Exercise,  125. 

Elizabeth  Campbell  Newhall,  431, 

432,  433.  436. 

Father  Conner,  Lynn,  152. 

James  Robinson  Newhall,  370,  380, 
383,  385,  390,  400,  403.  427. 

Finn,  Henry  J.,  138. 
First  white  child  born  in  Lynn.  6. 

Birth  of  author,  6. 

Fitzgerald,  compositor,  68. 

Blanchard,  Master,  13,  108,  124. 

Floating  Bridge,  39. 

Boarding-house  acquaintances,  79-84. 

"  Flood  Ireson,"  12. 

Bohemians."  "  King  of,  132. 

Foote,  Caleb,  ?8.  29. 

Bonaparte,  Joseph,  100. 

Foreign  trip,  170. 

Book  auctions,  97,  98. 

Fort  Hill,  Boston,  78. 

Boston,  48,  107. 

Fowler.  49. 

Boston,  First  visit  to,  35. 
Bowditch,  Nathaniel,  55-60,  409. 

Franklin,  44,  46,  150. 
Franklin's  grave,  104. 

Breed,  Isaiah.  117. 

Franklin's  press,  80. 

BroomeSt.N.V.,  89. 

Brother  Jonathan,  92. 

Gardner,  Doctor,  13. 

Brown,  90. 
Bryant,  77.  135. 

gates.  Lawyer  Isaac,  112,  156. 
enealogy  Newhall  family,  6. 

Bunker  Hill,  35. 

Geneva  tribunal,  44. 

Bunker  Hill  Monument,  Corner  stone, 

Gerry,  Elbridge,  21. 

35.  64. 

Gill,  Thomas.  58,  72. 

Burrill,  Hon.  Ebenezer,  7. 

Counsellor,  112. 

Hon.  John,  7. 

Glover,  General,  22. 

Butts,  Isaac  R.,  54. 

Goodrich,  S.  S.,409. 

Byington,  D.D..  Rev.  E.  H.,  427. 

Gray,  Mr.,  scientist,  129. 

Grund,  Francis  J.,  55,  56,  409. 

Caldwell.  Dr.  Charles,  48.  49,  50,  51  ,  53. 
Central  Park,  N.Y..  in  1830,  95. 

Halleck,  poet,  137. 

Channing,  Dr.,  OS,  85.  409. 

Hannan,  Esq.,  Joseph  F.,  180. 

Chapman,  Mr.,  159. 

Harris,  compositor,  61. 

Chatterton,  Thomas,  424, 

Hart  family,  G  (3),  405. 

Cheever,  Rev.  George  B.,  28. 

Hart  house,  5,  406. 

Clapp,  Henry,  132. 

Hart,  Sarah    6. 

Clarke,  McDonald,  135. 

Haven  family,  5. 

"Classic  Office,"  Boston,  54,58. 

Hawkes,  Hon.  Nathan  M.,  403. 

Collord,  Supt.,  90. 

Herbert,  Thomas,  142. 

Commemorative  of  Lynn  Fire,  175. 
Conference  Office,  N.Y..  90,  91,  409. 

Hippocrates,  400. 
History  of  Lynn,  111. 

Continental  Congress,  21. 

Holley,  President,  48. 

Copy  followed,  64,  67. 

Hollis  St.  Church,  Boston,  48. 

440 


INDEX. 


Holyoke,  Dr.  Edward  A.,  22. 
Home,  Departure  from,  7. 

Newspapers,  cont. 
Lynn  papers,  1831,  107. 

Hull.  General,  75. 

Lynn  Mirror,  108,  111,  117. 

Humfrey,  John,  154. 
rlutchinson,  Gov.,  7. 

Lynn  Record,  114. 
Lynn  Weekly  Messenger,  112,  113. 
New  York  Herald.  77. 

nking  roller,  45. 

Post,  Boston  Morning,  74,  112. 

nstinct  of  animals,  14-16. 

Salem  Gazette,  27(2),  32,  35,41,64, 

ntoxicating  liquors,  121. 
ntroduction,  Part  III,  377. 

108,  113,  400. 
Saturday  Evening  Gazette,  Boston, 

pswich,  First  Church,  29. 

140. 

ron  Works,  First,  in  America,  6,  405. 

Statesman,  Boston  Daily,  41,42,43. 

New  York,  In,  88,  130. 

ackson's  message,  113. 

New  York  Herald,  77. 

ames  Burrill,  schooner,  104,  106. 

Niles,  Esq.,  William  H.,  180. 

ewett,  John  P.,  115. 

Noah,  Major  M.  M.  409. 

ohnson,  Captain  Benoice,  8,  26. 

Noddle's  Island.  88. 

DrP,  148. 

Northend.  Hon.  William  D.,  180. 

ulian  Hall,  Boston,  48,  122. 

NOTES  OF  TRAVEL,  185. 

ustices,  159. 

Abelard  and  Heloise,  237. 

Alexandria.  293,  339. 

"  King  George,"  53. 

Algiers,  257. 

Antwerp,  249. 

Lafayette.  General,  35,  37,  87. 

Baker,  Daniel  C..  226. 

Landmark,  The.  Salem,  28. 
Law  anecdote,  157. 

Edward,  226. 
Bentinck,  Lord  George,  225. 

Lawyers  of  Lynn.  153. 

Birmingham.  253. 

Lewis,  Alonzo,  108,  112. 

Brighton,  204. 

Lexington,  Steamer,  138. 

British  Museum,  202. 

Locomotive,  147. 

Brussels,  240. 

Longfellow,  77,  135. 
Lummus,  C.  F.,  108,  111,  112. 

Buniey.  Dr.,  author  of  History  of 
Music.  219. 

Lynn,  107. 

Burney."  "Sweet  little,  219. 

Lynn  Woods,  176. 

Cairo,  298. 

Cambridge,  228. 

Mad  Poet,"  "  The.    135. 

Canning,  statesman,  England,  225. 

Mail  in  1830,  89. 

Chapel  of  Our  Ladv,  215. 

Marblehead,  7-13. 

Chime.  Lynn  Regis.  219. 

Marblehead  in  the  Revolution,  21. 

Citadel  of  Cairo,  319. 

McClure,  compositor,  71.89. 

Citta-Vecchia,  281. 

McLellan,  Isaac,  poet,  77. 

Coulton,  Mr.,  solicitor,  King's  Lynn, 

Mechanique,  Celeste  of  La  Place,  55, 

211,  217,  223,  224. 

58 

Egypt,  292. 

Memphis,  87. 

Ely,227. 

Merrill.  Benjamin,  first  Lynn  lawyer, 
153. 

English  courtesy.  193. 
"  Eugene  Aram,"  213. 

Messenger,  Weekly,  112,  113. 
Methodist  printing  office,  90. 

Fees,  198. 
Gibraltar.  256. 

Mirror,  Lynn,  108,  111,  117. 

Gipsies.  335. 

"  Monks  "  and  '•  Friars,"  45. 

Grey  Friars'  Tower,  213. 

Morgan,  Andrew,  Philadelphia,  103. 
Mudge,  Benj.  F.,  153,  159. 

Harvest  Home,  222. 
Hastings,  189. 

Mugford,  Capt.  James,  22. 

Homeward  voyage,  341. 

Hood,  George.  Lynn,  226. 

Newhall  family,  6,  430. 

Richard,  England,  226. 

Newhall,  Benjamin,  6,  405. 

Keene,  Benjamin,  226. 

Harrison.  383. 
Isaac,  164. 

King's  Lynn,  209. 
Laighton,  Thomas,  Lynn  and  Eng- 

Josiah, 117,383. 

land,  225. 

Thomas  B.,  151,  153. 

Language,  Difficulties  of,  359. 

Newspapers. 

Liverpool,  355-357. 

Badger's  Weekly  Messenger,  127. 
Brother  Jonathan,  N.Y..  '.'2. 

London,  189. 
Lynn,  Name  of,  226. 

Christian  Examiner  Boston,  48,54. 

Lynn.  Mass.,  225. 

Landmark,  The,  Salem,  28. 

Malta,  265-292. 

Locomotive,  147. 

Ocean  voyaging,  341,  353. 

44i 


NOTES  OF  TRAVEL,  cont. 
Old  streets,  London,  19-2. 
Paris,  235. 

Parliament  Houses,  London,  193. 
Passports,  355. 

Pere  La  Chaise  Cemetery,  237. 
Personally-Conducted  Tours,  369. 
Pyramids,  301-317. 
Queenstown,  357. 
Kouen,  229. 
Shipboard,  358. 
Sphinx,  317. 

Stanley.  Earl  of  Derby,  Eng.,  225. 
St.  PauFs  Cathedral,  201. 
Tower  of  London,  199. 
Townsend,  Charles,  Lord  Viscount, 

226. 
Townsend,  Daniel,  at    Lexington, 

226. 

Townsend,  Thomas,  226. 
Trafalgar,  350. 
Valetta,  265. 

Walpole,  Sir  Robert,  224. 
Water  loo.  241.  245. 
Westminster  Abbey,  189. 
White  Friar  Monastery,  214. 

Octogenarian,  An,  171. 
"  Old  Tunnel,"  155. 
Oliver,  Sr.,  Stephen,  112. 
Olmstead,  Professor,  147. 
Onslow,  Sir  Arthur,  7. 
Opodeldoc,  103. 

Paine,  Ma'am,  7. 
Part  I,  5. 
Part  II,  183. 
Part  III,  375. 
Pedestrian  feats,  126. 
Personal  Mention. 

Abernethy.  Doctor.    Anecdotes,  51. 

Adams,  John  Quincy,  32. 

Allen,  compositor,  80. 

Bacheller,  Jonathan,  117. 

Baker,  Daniel,  Lynn.  226. 

Edward,  England,  226. 

Barnum.  P.  T.,  139. 

Berry,  Hon.  John  \V..  180. 

Beecher,  Dr.  Lyman.  85,86. 

Berkeley,  Sir  William,  47. 

Berry,  Mr.,  57. 

Blanchard,  Master,  13. 108, 113. 

Bohemians,"  "  King  of,  132. 

Bonaparte,  Joseph,  100. 

Bowditch   Nathaniel,  55  to  60,  409. 

Breed,  Isaiah,  117. 

Brown,  Methodist  Printing  Office, 
90. 

Bryant,  William  Cullen,  77,135. 

Burrill,  Hon.  Ebenezer,  7. 
Hon.  John,  7. 

Butts,  Isaac  R.,  54. 

Caldwell,  Dr.  Charles,  48,49,50,51, 
53. 

Channing,  Dr.,  68,  85,  409. 

Chapman,  Mr.,  159. 


Personal  Mention,  cont. 
Clapp,  Henry,  132. 
Clarke,  McDonald,  135. 
Curtin,  Enoch,  112. 
Gushing,  Caleb,  42. 
Damrefl,  William  S.,  79. 
D'Arusmont,  M.,  87. 
Dexter,  Lord  Timothy,  67. 
Ditson,  Oliver,  58. 
Ellsler,  Fannie,  139. 
Father  Conner,  Lynn,  152. 
Fjnn,  Henry  J.,  138. 
Fitzgerald,  compositor,  68. 
Fowler,  49. 
Franklin,  44,  46,  150. 
Gardner,  Doctor,  13. 
Gates.  Lawyer  Isaac,  112, 156. 
Gill,  Thomas,  58,  72. 
Counsellor,  112. 
Goodrich,  S.  S.,  409. 
Gray,  Mr.,  scientist,  129. 
Grund,  Francis  J.,  55,  56,  409. 
Halleck,  137. 

Hannan,  Esq.,  Joseph  F.,  180. 
Harris,  compositor.  61. 
Hart  family,  6  (3),  405. 

Sarah.  6. 
Haven  family,  5. 
Herbert,  Thomas,  142. 
Holley,  President,  48. 
Hood,  George,  Lynn,  226. 

Richard.  England,  226. 
Hull,  General,  75. 
Humfrey,  John,  154. 
Hutchinson,  Gov.,  7. 
Jewett,  John  P.,  115. 
Johnson.  Dr.,  148. 
Keene,  Benjamin,  226. 
"  King  George,"  53. 
Lafayette,  General,  35,  37.  87. 
Laighton,  Thomas,  Lynn  and  Eng- 
land, 225. 

Lewis,  Alonzo,  108,  112. 
Longfellow,  H.  W.,  77, 135. 
Lummus,  C.  F.,  108,111,112. 
Mad  Poet,"  "The,  135. 
Marblehead. 

Andre,  Major,  22. 

Gerry,  Elbridge,  21. 

Glover,  General,  22. 

Holyoke,  Dr.  Edward  A.,  22. 

Johnson.  Capt.  Benoice.  8,  26. 

Mugford,  Capt.  James,  22. 

Paine,  Ma'am,  7. 

Story,  Judge  Joseph,  23. 

Tufts,  David,  7. 
McClure,  compositor,  71 ,  89. 
McLellan,  Isaac,  Poet,  77. 
Merrill,  Benjamin,  First  Lynn  Law- 
yer, 153. 
Methodist  Printing  Office,  N.Y. 

Brown.  Mr.,  90. 

Collord,  Mr.,  Supt.,  90. 

Stephens,  Mrs.  Ann,  91. 

Edward,  91,  99, 102. 

Winterbotham,  Miss,  91. 


INDEX. 


Personal  Mention,  cont. 
Morgan,  Andrew,  Philadelphia,  103. 
Madge.  Benj.  F.,  153,159. 
Newhall  family,  6,  430. 
Benjamin,  6,  405. 

Phenomena.  Extraordinary.    A  sport- 
ive fiction,  144. 
Philadelphia,  In,  99. 
Philadelphia  street  rhyme,  101. 
Phillips,  Wendell,  85. 

Harrison,  383. 

Phrenology,  48,  53. 

Isaac,  164. 

Pickering,  Henry.  33. 

Josiah,  117,383. 

Timothy,  32,  33. 

Thomas  B.,  151,  153. 

Police  Court,  157. 

Niles,  Esq.,  William  H.,  180. 

Post,  Boston,  74,  112. 

Noah,  Major  M.  M.,  409. 

Powderhorn  Hill,  Chelsea,  39. 

Northend,  Hon.  William  D.,  180. 

Prescott,  Joshua,  155. 

Oliver,  Sr.,  Stephen,  112. 

Printer,  How  I  came  to  be  a,  25. 

Olmstead.  Professor,  147. 

Printers'    blunders  and   annoyances, 

Onslow,Sir  Arthur,  7. 

64,  65. 

Phillips,  Wendell,  85. 

clothing,  110. 

Prescott,  Joshua,  155. 

wages,  109. 

Rogers,  Mary,  93. 
Ropes,  JohnF.,  113. 

Printing  (1570),  46. 
Profanity,  8.  9. 

Salem. 

Proof  reading,  407,  408. 

Andrews,  Ferdinand,  27,  28,  37. 

Punctuation,  66. 

Cheever,  Rev.  George  B.,  43. 

Dabney,  Nathaniel,  401. 

Ramage  press,  35. 

Deacon  Giles'  Distillery,  28. 

Record,  114. 

Foote,  Caleb,  28,  29. 

Revolution  and  other  wars,  35. 

Hawthorne,    Dolliver    Romance, 

Rogers,  Mary.  93. 

402. 

Ropes,  John  F.,  113. 

Pickering,  Henry,  33. 

Timothy,  32,33. 

Sadler's  Rock,  399,417. 

Revolution  and  other  wars,  35. 

Sagamore  Building,  152. 

Sprague,  Postmaster,  37. 

Salem,  27. 

Symmes,  Capt.  John  Cleves,  29,32. 

Salem   Gazette,    27  (2),  32,  35,  41,  64, 

"  Uncle  Britton,"  40. 

108,113,400. 

Shillaber,  Mr.  B.  P.,  63. 

Saturday  Evening  Gazette,Eoston,  140 

Snelling,  Henry  J.,  76. 

School,  13. 

Col.  Jnsiah,  75. 

Schoolmaster,  23. 

William  J.,  76. 

School  Street  press,  55. 

Spain,  Ex-King  of,  100. 

Shillaber,  Mr.  B.  P.,  63. 

Spurzheim,  51. 

Snakes,  18. 

Stephens,  Mrs.  Ann,  91. 
Stickney,  Jeremiah  C.,  153. 
Symmes,  Capt.  John  Cleves,  29,  32. 

Snelling,  Henry  J.,  76. 
Col.  Josiah,  75. 
William  J.,  76. 

Rev.  Timothy,  29. 
Taylor,  Bayard,  16. 

Spain,  Ex-King  of,  100. 
Sprague,  Postmaster,  Salem.     Anec- 

David, 117. 

dote,  37. 

Thatcher,  Rev.  Mr.,  155. 

Spurzheim,  51. 

Tolman,  John  B.,  114. 
Townsend,  Charles,  Lord  Viscount, 

Statesman,  Boston  Daily,  41,  42,  43. 
"  Statesman  in  a  Quandary,"  41. 

226. 

Stephens,  Mrs.  Ann  S.,  91. 

Daniel  at  Lexington  ,226. 
Thomas,  226. 

Edward,  91,99,  102. 
Stickney,  Jeremiah  C.,  153. 

Trevett,  Lawyer  Robert  W.,  112.156. 
Upham,  Senator,  158,  159. 
Washburn,  Governor  of  Vt.,  155. 

Story,  Judge  Joseph.  23. 
Street  scenes,  New  York,  1830,  9(i. 
Suicide  of  animals,  18. 

Reuben  P.  ,  155. 
Watson,  a  Scotchman,  81. 

Symmes,  Capt.  John  Cleves,  29,  32. 
Rev.  Timothy,  29. 

Webster,  Daniel  37,  41. 
Whiting,  Samuel,  226.  422. 

Symmes'  theory,  29. 

Whitman,  Walt,  92,  130-135,  410. 

Taylor,  Bayard,  16. 

Walter,  130. 

David.  117. 

Whittier,  J.  G.,  13. 

Thatcher,  Rev.  Mr.,  155. 

Whitwell,   druggist,    Philadelphia, 

Tolman,  John  B.,114. 

103. 

Transylvania  University,  Ky.,  48. 

Wiley,  Caleb,  155. 

Trevett,  Lawyer  Robert  W..  112,  156. 

Willis,  N.  P.,  48,77,409. 

"  Truth  —  a  New  Year's  Gift  for  Scrib- 

Wright, Fannie,  86. 

blers,"  70,77. 

INDEX. 


443 


Tufts,  David,  7. 

"  Uncle  Britton,"  40. 
Uncle  Tom's  Cabin,  116. 
Union  Square,  New  York,  93. 
Upham,  Senator,  158, 159. 

Van  Buren,  Rev.  J.  H.,  391,  433. 

Washburn,  Governor,  of  Vt.,  155. 

Reuben  P.,  155. 

Washington's  headquarters,  33. 
Watson,  a  Scotchman,  81. 
Webster,  Daniel.  37,  41. 


Whiting,  Samuel,  226.  422. 
Whitman,  Walt,  92,  130-135,  410. 

Walter.  130. 
Whittier,  J.  G.,  13. 
Whitwel),  druggist,  Philadelphia,  103. 
Wiley,  Caleb,  155. 
Will,  Elizabeth   Campbell    Newhall, 

436. 

Will,  James  R.  Newhall,  398. 
Willis,  N.  P.,  48,  77,  409. 
Winterbotham,  Miss,  91. 
Wright,  Fannie,  86. 
Writings  of  James  R.  Newhall,  141, 


1629  1893 

'      LYNN    -l 

HER    COMPLETE    HISTORY. 


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